By Nelya Rakhimova

There are places on the Earth where winter lasts almost 9 months. Yar-Sale is one of them. Located above the Arctic Circle, it is a small town with population about 5,000 people. It’s the administrative center of Yamal Region, which occupies the whole Yamal Peninsula. It was founded in 1927 by Soviets. In 1932 it became the administrative center in order to the Nenets, nomads who live there. In the Nenets language, Yar-Sale means “Sandy Point” as it is located on a sand island surrounded by endless marshy tundra.

My parents moved to Yar-Sale for several years to earn more money. As they worked in the educational sphere, they couldn’t make much money in the south. Because there is need of education for local nomads, you can easily get good bonuses to your usual salary because of the “hardship” status of the living in the area. I visited my parents for New Year’s.

Visiting the northern nomads—the Nenets Nation—became the best New Year’s present. It was an incredible experience also because one of my classmates, Alexey Serotetto is one of them. He was glad to show me around and to introduce me the wild northern life of his nation.

Getting to Yar-Sale

First of all, it is necessary to say that it is one the places in Russia where it is really hard to get to. I flew from Tyumen to Salehard. Then you have two options to get to Yar-Sale: helicopter or jeep with huge wheels. During the summer you cannot drive cars between towns because there are no roads, only helicopters and boats can be used.

During the winter everything is frozen and only experienced drivers can find the right way. They prefer to drive when it dark because apparently they can see the way better than in daylight. However, it is not a problem in this region, because sunlight appears here only for two to three hours per day in winter. Helicopter pilots, in contrast, prefer to fly during this short sunny time.

I tried both means of transportation. As I landed quite late and I did not want to stay in Salehard for a night, I took an eight-hour jeep ride. Even though it is just 190 km (about 120 miles) it takes a lot of time to cross tundra. There is no road, snow covers traces of cars immediately and it is really easy to get lost. There is one stop on the way—the small town Aksarka—which is a good way to know you’re on the right path.

Nomads in Modern Life

The main purpose of the settlement is to provide local people with education and medicine. Every fall, children are collected by helicopter from the nomad’s camp and are brought here. They stay in a special school for nine months and then go back to their parents’ camps. Usually immigrants work in these organizations; most of the Nenets keep a traditional way of life.  They have a lot of subsidies as they are indigenous peoples. As a result they can get additional equipment to make life a bit more comfortable.

Only some of them try to get political power and defend their rights at the local level. They have apartments and from first glance have the same living conditions as Russian people. However, I realized that it is not really true when I visited my classmate in Yar-Sale. His apartment was organized as a traditional tent with lots of deerskins everywhere. They treated me with raw cut fish and instead of soup they offered me a bowl with reindeer’s blood. I liked it, by the way.

Some Nenets fit into the modern era very well, and some of them can get in real trouble. For example, the biggest problem is alcohol. The Nenets have not adapted to it as we have and it’s really easy for them to become dependent on alcoholic.

Day in the Tundra

Nenets people are really hospitable and they really like to show how they live, entertain and treat their guests. I was told that my classmate’s family participated in a documentary series of BBC ‘Tribe’ when a BBC crew spent about one month with them to make an episode about their tribe.  I had only one day to experience the freezing temperatures and their lifestyle was so unusual for me.

My classmate invited me to visit his relatives that were in 20 km from the town at that time. We met in the morning, while it was still dark. They gave me natural clothes to be comfortable during the trip. They are made from reindeer skins and are really warm and comfortable. The Nenets usually travel by snowmobile from the town to their camps. Camps are setup by families that overtake the reindeer in order provide them with the possibility to find food. As they eat reindeer moss, they need to move all the time. So sometimes people come and stay next to the town to get provisions and see relatives who have changed from the traditional lifestyle.

It took about one hour to get ready and another to get to the camp. We wanted to arrive there when it wasn’t dark so we didn’t have much time. It was amazing for me how the Nenets can find the right direction in the tundra. It is a completely white plain and monotonous landscape. Only sometimes there are some hills and small trees. When we were closer, we met the head of the family and he suggested we take a sled ride.

Sled Ride

The people that we visited didn’t have many reindeer. There were only about 300—they told us that is not a lot. They say that each of them has a special name and they remember each of them. Reindeer here are considered a holy animal for people. Life without them in such a severe climate is not possible; they provide food, clothing, and transportation.

There was only one traditional tent (chum) where people usually stay. Women are responsible for the transporting the tent, as well as setting it up, and what goes on inide. Usually there is an iron stove inside which helps to keep it warm.

The Chum

Inside there a lot of deerskins that are used as carpets and sleeping bags. The woman, host of the chum, treated us with different kinds of raw frozen fish and some vodka. As all Nenets people who complete school can speak Russian, we had nice conversation about their life and how they migrate from the north to the south during the winter and back during the summer. Toilets are situated away from the chums and separated into male and female areas. Their clothes are made in a special way to make it as comfortable as possible. However, I was told that when there is a snowstorm they use a robe to go outside because sometimes people can get lost. They cannot find their way back even if they go only a few meters away from the tent.  Also the Nenets will often take a stick with them to the toilet to fend off any overly-friendly reindeer that are in search of salty fluids.

In general, I was impressed with Nenets’ way of thinking. In the beginning I thought that I am going to meet uneducated people with who I do not have anything to talk about. However, I found out that they are incredible people who live in harmony with nature and who are completely happy to be there in such a cold and severe place. They told me how it is hard for them to live in small apartments, and how they miss the unlimited dark tundra, snow, frost, raw fish and meat.

We came back when it was completely dark. I did not want to give back such warm and comfortable clothes because I was going to stay in Yar-Sale for couple days more, but I did.  I was really happy that I had opportunity to understand these people who live in such a severe climate. It seems so crazy for us, people who are used to hot water from the tap and a heating system during the coldest days.

I understood once again that people can get used to everything and that happiness depends only on our perception of situations and that the endless white plain is one of the most beautiful landscapes that I have ever seen.

If you go

If you want to visit Yar-Sale, you need to have a special permission because this area is considered a pre-border area. I would suggest finding people who can host you there beforehand.

Nelya Rakhimova grew up in the town of Tobolsk, Russia, and moved to Tyumen when she was 15. She has spent the last few years traveling and studying in various countries and has recently completed her Master’s degree in the United States on a Fulbright Scholarship. This is her second feature for GoMad Nomad.

The following is a guest post.

Valencia

Valencia is Spain’s third city, but it is rising to become one of the most progressive. Trying to equal the cosmopolitan vitality of Barcelona and the cultural diversity of Madrid, it continues to reinvent itself.

Leading the city’s way out of its former provincial reputation is the La Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias, the state-of-the-art City of Arts and Sciences. This alone was Valencia’s city government’s quest to put the city on the world tourism map. It’s a complex of four futuristic-looking buildings designed by Santiago Calatrava. Inside you can see IMAX films, the Science Museum, an aquarium and more.

Valencia is also the home of paella, but it’s better to try this best of Spanish cuisine outside of the city. Try paella in the town of Perellonet or El Palmar or at Playa Levante

South of Valencia is one of the best stretches of beach on this coastline. The finest are between Gandia and Benidorm. Much of this coast, however, suffers from the worst of package tourism, with huge concrete hotels that are eyesore on an otherwise magnificent coast.

Benidorm

Benidorm is a seaside resort on the Costa Blanca in the province of Alicante, Spain. It has a large minority of retired expat British, and is considered the king of package tourism destination. The region is an ideal sun destination no matter what time of year, and the day time temperatures rarely fall below 18C. It has been offering value holidays to over 5 million visitors every year since the 1970′s. There are over 41,000 hotel beds and modern tourist apartments catering mostly to British and Scandinavian sun-seekers. You’ll also consequently find plenty of English pubs, fish and chips, full English breakfasts, and over 200 discos and clubs. But the highlight of Benidorm holidays is undeniably its 2km of golden sand beach.

Although it’s firmly on the beaten path, still consider Benidorm, especially if your winter is cold and rainy. Other places along this coast to check out would be Gandia, Denia, Xabia, and Altea. Nothing quite beats a holiday in Spain during the damp and dreary winters in northern Europe and the U.K.

I hadn’t visited Gettysburg since I went with the Boy Scouts back in the mid 90’s. Upon returning, I set off to find out if Gettysburg could be interesting for international visitors. The fact that the results of this war changed the course of world history cannot be debated. But that doesn’t mean that visiting the Gettysburg National Military Park is interesting to foreign visitors.

What happened at Gettysburg?

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania was the three-day scene of one of the bloodiest war battles the world has ever seen, not to mention the small town’s aftermath dealing with the thousands left wounded and dying in the fields around town. The battle was the biggest of the American Civil War and a great victory for the Union forces, thus proving to be a turning point in the war. But it could have easily been a Confederate victory if it weren’t for certain strategic blunders by the Southern generals.

Planning your time in Gettysburg

There’s plenty to see in Gettysburg. I recently spent two days there and reckon I could’ve stayed another. Most visitors, however, could be satisfied with two full days.

Start your tour at the Visitor’s Center. The Gettysburg National Military Park is run by the National Park Service, and the Visitor’s Center has been recently renovated. Don’t miss the outstanding video which helps give background information and explain the context of the battle in the War as well as explaining the troop movements and tactics used by the generals.

Next you’ll visit the battlefields. As you drive/cycle/walk around the serene battlefields, consider this: multiply every cannon you see by six, the actual number used during the fight. Every monument you see faces the enemy. This might appear odd in some places now, where a monument faces a wood. But for the past 12 years, the park service has been securing property and transforming the battlefield to exactly the way it was in July of 1863. This means cutting down trees, re-planting orchards, etc.

Another thing to remember, one that the townsfolk like to remind us of: the streets of Gettysburg were the battlefield too, not just the open fields surrounding town.

To get an idea of how the common citizens of Gettysburg endured the battle and aftermath, head to the Shriver House, an excellent little museum that shows us the inside of the Shriver family home as it was during July 1863. The guides tell us the personal story of how these individuals survived the three days of horrific fighting. The house-cum-museum was recommended to me and I’d agree it’s one of the best in town.

During the tour of the Shriver House, we were reminded of facts like the stench in town and how it lasted until November. When 70,000 horses and 160,000 men have no proper toilet facilities, that’s going to be hard on the nostrils. Not to mention the decomposition of 8,000 deceased soldiers and 5,000 dead horses. Townsfolk walked around town holding handkerchiefs with peppermint oil close to their nose.

Another quick but worthwhile stop is the David Wills House. Newly restored, it was the location where President Lincoln spent the night before giving “a few appropriate remarks”, which we know as his unforgettable Gettysburg Address.

American History or World History?

True this was the United States Civil War, but really it is world history. How important was the outcome of this war? If the United States had become two separate countries in the 19^th century, the world would undoubtedly be a very different place today. Remember, Gettysburg was the pivotal battle of the war. It changed the direction and momentum of the conflict as a whole.

Beyond the Military Park

Before leaving, check out the Eisenhower Historic Site. It’s a refreshing change of pace from all the intensive civil war-period information. And it goes along with our international theme. Who could be more international than Dwight D. Eisenhower? General of the allied forces in World War II, 34th President of the United States, and first supreme commander of NATO. He chose to retire in Gettysburg, the place where he first came for military training. Touring the Eisenhower farm is step back in time—to Mamie Eisenhower’s 1950’s and 60’s where the interior design was distinctly like my grandmother’s old house.

There are plenty of other small museums around town, and numerous ghost tours on offer. Just strolling through town is also pleasant. Noted by a plaque on the facade, you’re able to see which buildings were standing during the civil war era.

Practical details

Once well-connected with rail links and several roads, this was the reason Gettysburg was so desirable for the Confederate forces to capture. Today, although still well-connected by the same roads, Gettysburg remains off-the-beaten-path for most international visitors that are whizzing from New York to Philadelphia to Washington, DC. Those foreign travelers that do make it are mostly from Canada, the U.K., and Australia.

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania is located about two hours north of Washington, DC and two-and-a-half hours west of Philadelphia. Hotel and restaurants are plentiful; Gettysburg accommodates 3 million visitors each year.

By Beau Miller

“It’s governed by a council/ All good souls and wise./ They’ve only $5 for armaments/ And the rest for cakes and pies.” -Pete Seeger, “Andorra”

As your attorney, I advise you to rent a fuel-efficient automobile and drive at top speed to Andorra, but before you start packing the trunk with ether, Wild Turkey, and limes—stop. And think. Absinthe in Andorra is as abundant as the mountains, and at 3 Euro a liter for a bottle of the Green Fairy, you have more room for the Acapulco shirts and handguns. Now for the gory details. You have to go through France or Spain to get there. No public airports in Andorra, just curving stretches of finely-manicured highway being skillfully navigated upon by peace-loving Andorrans. Here I take the risk of coming off as some pretentious jackass, and I invite you to do the same. Because somewhere, in gritty Williamsburg, Austin, and Portland bars fair-skinned hands will tremble around their cans of PBR and filterless Luckies with borderline-uncontrollable desire as you utter one of the most powerful combination of words in modern English, “When I was in Andorra…”

Undoubtedly there will be those who, while able to identify the finer points of bicycle restoration, are unable to locate Andorra on a map or think it would be a great name for a band nobody’s heard of yet. Therefore you must arm yourself to the teeth with information. Skip the CIA Factbook because I’m supremely confident that they got their information from Pete Seeger’s 1960s love ballad about Andorra. However, recent developments must be taken into account in order to rightly appreciate the evolution of Andorran sagacity. Since the 1960s, it would appear that Andorra’s approximately $5 defense budget has been decreased. By approximately $5. It now delegates responsibility for the protection of its people, cakes, and pies to Spain and France. Though, the French, it would seem, are envious enough of their Catalonian neighbors and the unrivaled quality of their queso-induced siestas, that they keep a jab at Andorra holstered and at the ready for whenever mention of this tiny Pyrenean utopia is mentioned. “What does one do in Andorra?” the joke-teller will inquire. When met with a shrug of the shoulder or the oral imitation of the sounds of quick, satisfying flatulence (the preferred method by which many French exclaim their befuddlement), the joke-teller will go for the throat: “On dort!” In English, the punch-line translates to “One sleeps,” but in French it is a clever play on words, as it is pronounced exactly as locals pronounce the name of their nation in Catalan (Andorre). Yes, one sleeps, but only after one has had their fill of outdoor activity, paella, and strong drink.

Make for the campsite of your choice. In a country 176 square miles, it’s hard to get too far out of an Andorran city, but what it lacks in seclusion, it makes up for with its ability to provide a perfect cocktail of European caravanners. Anywhere is close to the capital city of Andorra la Vella and its tax-free shopping, and if not traveling solo, “bungalows” offer cheap accommodation, with separate bedrooms, shower, and a kitchen/absinthe-drinking arena perfect for discussing the social commentary of Celentano’s “Yuppi Du” (Youtube it). Though as the propietari of the Camping Pla confessed to me, the shower is not quite big enough to fit all your friends in at once. It can be hard to find a “cheap” plate of local grub, but you get what you pay for, and a plate of local paella and a bottle of house wine split with a camarada will leave one immensely satisfied. For keeping to a budget hit up the Andorra 2000, the bastard step-child of Walmart and a medieval public market, for its cheap and affordable selection of any type of alcohol under the sun, the legs of any standard livestock you might desire, and a tremendous array of cheeses. Nutella comes in buckets.
Initially drawn to Andorra as part of the search for either a setting for a setting for workplace team-building exercises or mass destruction, the US State Department, in 2003, estimated the average daily cost of a stay in Andorra to be $226. This raises significant questions. How could four exuberant young go-getters in a brand-spanking-new Ford Fiesta make the 1,500 km, round-trip journey from Lyon, France to the illustrious Camping Pla in Canillo, Andorra, spend two nights in a bungalow, and return with a trunk full of Absinthe, Andorra-stenciled lighters, pens, fridge magnets, and the country’s Euro-style, ovular, white “AND” stickers (which identify the owner of the property upon which said sticker is affixed, as a pacifist pastry eater who will survive both nuclear holocaust and the subsequent zombie apocalypse thanks solely to Andorra’s “under the radar” status) all for the low, low price of approximately 120 €, for transportation, food, lodging, and party favors? What kicks were State Department henchmen getting in Andorra? Maybe they should be writing this article.

All in all, Andorra offers an affordable feast for the soul and all senses. It takes a special kind of person to reach this Shangri-la of the Pyrenees, an even more special person to throw the proverbial boulder in the figurative pond of its quiet mountain towns, and a rare breed of animal to successfully arouse the (wander) lust of those susceptible to stories of raucous adventures in countries they weren’t quite sure existed.

To do it right, go in June, just before the tourist season picks up. By beating the rush, you guarantee yourself a wide berth to roam about Andorra spontaneously and irrationally, and you are more likely to succeed in finding lodging only a short stumble away from local bars and restaurants. July and August bring in the summer hordes before the short fall and the ski season. Accommodations and other information are easily found on Andorra’s tourism website. Andorra is perfect for a weekend experience, but its mountain walls start to close in and the rental car will get restless for any time longer than that. And for God’s sake, don’t go during ski season.

Beau Miller holds a Master’s degree in International Relations from Syracuse University and is America’s greatest long-distance driver, having recently learned to drive manual, at 29 years young, on the way to Andorra. This is his third article for GoMad Nomad. His previous dispatches have been from Nepal and Oman.

Entering Andorra le Vella, Andorra's capital.

The view from an alleyway in the bustling metropolis of Canillo, Andorra

Stopping to enjoy the great Andorran past-time- hitting snowballs with a stick

Bungalows often include wifi, kitchen, and showers

Andorra's reduction in defense spending has allowed it to increase its budget for the arts

All the comforts of home...

The old harbor of Girne, Northern Cyprus

By Stephen Bugno

The Karpas Peninsula

Jutting out to the northeast of Cyprus is the wild and wonderful Karpas Peninsula. This is the most remote part of the island where few tourists make the effort to reach. Public transportation is non-existent in these parts, so bring your own wheels or hitch a ride. It’s worth it if you enjoy peace and quiet and the chance to see the wild, indigenous  donkeys, which are the symbol of Cyprus. All the way at the end of the peninsula is Apostolos Andreas Monastery.

Many aim to reach as far as Golden Beach, just shy of the monastery, which may be the best beach on the island. Its white sands and clear waters can be enjoyed in an environment free from development, except for the wooden bungalows where you can spend the night. It’s also known for being a turtle nesting area.

Girne (Kyrenia)

Girne is a picturesque port on the northern coast of the island. Once a Venetian harbor town, Girne is backed by the steep wooded hills of the Beşparmak Mountains. Even though it’s the most popular tourist destination in the north, you shouldn’t be conjuring up images of all inclusive holidays to Ayia Napa. Girne is different.

True, it gets it share of foreign holiday makers, but it still retains its old world charms: cobble streets, an old harbor, and the massive Kyrenia Castle. Located next to the harbor, it is thought to have been built by the Byzantines in the 7th century. Inside is the incredibly preserved wreck of a wooden merchant ship dated to 306 BC, which was found in 1965 off the coast. The cargo of 400 clay jugs filled with olives and almonds was found inside still intact.

The best day trips from Girne are to Bellapais, known for its ancient monastery of picturesque ruins with Gothic arches and stone walls, and to St. Hilarion, the best-preserved castle on the island, which is located halfway between Girne and Lefkoşa.

Gazimağusa (Famagusta)

The old city is surrounded by one of the best preserved Venetian fortifications in the eastern Mediterranean. (Leonardo da Vinci is thought to have been involved in the design.) There are plenty of medieval/renaissance buildings that can be visited in Gazimağusa, unfortunately most of them were severely damaged during the Turkish siege of the city in 1571.

At the top of your list should be the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, which was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest and re-named Lala Mustafa Paşa Mosque, the Land Gate with its drawbridge, the Martinengo Bastion, and a walk around Othello’s Tower.

If you are taking the ferry from Mersin, Gazimağusa is where you will arrive. (Alternatively, seasonal ferry runs a shorter route from Taşucu, Turkey to Girne.)

The best day trips from Gazimağusa are to the many fine beaches along the coast to the north, around Gazimağusa Bay, or to the ancient Greek city of Salamis. Today much of the site lies in ruins, but it is, nevertheless, one of the most impressive monuments to be found on the island. Don’t miss the spectacular gymnasium and theater and what remains of the mosaics.

About Northern Cyprus

The first thing you might notice when researching travel to Cyprus is that almost everyplace has two names: one in Turkish and another in Greek. The recent history of Cyprus has been a complicated one and even bloody at times.

The island is shared by Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots, and even though both sides agreed to a constitution in 1960, they were never practically able to live together. Following a civil war in the mid-1970’s the country divided, but Turkey is alone in recognizing Northern Cyprus as an independent state. Northern Cyprus has only about a quarter of the islands total population living on one-third of the total land area. Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily and Sardinia.

Stephen Bugno visited Northern Cyprus during part of an overland trip from Istanbul to Cairo. He edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and blogs at Bohemian Traveler.

Since its founding, New York City has been crowded.  NYC real estate is such a commodity that disposing of the deceased has posed some unique challenges.  In many of the city’s cemeteries, the departed haven’t gone so quietly.

St Pauls Graveyard at Broadway and Fulton Street, Manhattan, NY

St. Paul’s Chapel Churchyard

NYC’s oldest public building in continuous use (George Washington prayed here), St. Paul’s churchyard has ancient, sunken burial stones dating back to 1704.  The ghost of British actor George Frederick Cooke, who was buried there in 1812, has been known to haunt the graveyard.  Bizarrely, Cooke was interred without his head, having pledged it to science to settle his medical bills. (His skull later returned to the stage as a prop in productions of Hamlet).  Cooke’s spirit is seen roaming the churchyard, eternally searching for his missing head.  Broadway and Fulton Street, Manhattan, NY  http://www.trinitywallstreet.org/calendar/visit

St. Paul’s Chapel Churchyard in New York City

Trinity Churchyard

This iconic neo-Gothic church at the head of Wall Street is the final resting place of Revolutionary War heroes and Founding Fathers, including Alexander Hamilton.  It’s become a popular spot for lunch among the ancient headstones, which date back to 1681.  One long-term resident with a sense of humor lies in a plot whose tombstone simply reads “comedian.”  While passing his grave, many have clearly heard laughter.  Broadway at Wall Street, Manhattan, NY  http://www.trinitywallstreet.org/calendar/visit

St. Mark’s in-the-Bowery burial grounds

It would be easy to miss the burial grounds outside this historic church (NYC’s second oldest), since there are no traditional tombstones.  Stone markers in the ground (the inscriptions on many almost completely worn away) mark the subterranean vaults in which wealthy New York families of the early 19th century were placed. Four ghosts reportedly live in the church, including Peter Stuyvesant, the colorful governor of New Amsterdam, whose wooden peg leg is heard patrolling the aisles.  He’s even been known to disrupt services by singing hymns in Dutch before disappearing into a wall.

Another macabre incident on the grounds occurred in 1878 when the corpse of wealthy department-store owner A.T. Stewart was dug up by thieves and held for ransom. 131 E. 10th St., Manhattan, NY  http://stmarksbowery.org/

Green-wood Cemetery

This bucolic necropolis features rolling hills, great views of the Manhattan skyline, and impressive sculpture and architecture.  Founded in 1838, the cemetery was one of 19^th-Century America’s greatest tourist attractions.  Eerie, ghost-like images frequently appear in photographs taken at the site, and Mabel Douglass is believed to haunt the grounds.  Douglass disappeared on Lake Placid until her body was found at the bottom of the lake 30 years later, petrified and perfectly intact.  500 25^th Street, Brooklyn, NY  http://www.green-wood.com/

Woodlawn Cemetery

This “Garden Cemetery” is admired for its beautiful grounds and spectacular Mausoleums designed by some of NYC’s most famous architects.  Established in 1863, it is the final resting place of 300,000, including Duke Ellington, Fiorello LaGuardia, Miles Davis, and Celia Cruz. One who isn’t resting so peacefully is a mysterious old man with a flashlight, seen (but not heard) yelling beside Frankie’s Castle.  Webster Avenue & East 233^rd Street, Bronx, NY  http://www.thewoodlawncemetery.org/site/

St. John Cemetery 

Located in a residential neighborhood of Queens, St. John is the repository for some of NYC’s most famous citizens (Geraldine Ferraro, Robert Mapplethorpe), as well as its most infamous (Lucky Luciano, John Gotti, and members of notorious crime families).  Visitors report unnatural happenings, including weird sounds emanating out of thin air and unnerving cold spots.  8001 Metropolitan Ave. Middle Village, NY 11379

As with most tales of the undead, encounters are primarily anecdotal.  But who doesn’t love a chilling ghost story?

Jeff Dobbins is writer living in New York City.  He has written book and lyrics for several musicals, and scripting for celebrity awards show and Metropolitan Opera Radio.  His work has appeared on Yahoo News, Associated Content by Yahoo, Matador Network, and his website: http://nycxplorer.com/

By Stephen Bugno

The Empire State Plaza of Albany, New York

Getting Oriented

A great way to get oriented with Albany is by taking a tour with the Albany Aqua Ducks. Popular with both locals and visitors, the tour takes guests first by driving through the streets of the city and second on the Hudson River taking advantage of the dual nature of the amphibious vehicle. You’ll learn plenty of facts about Albany that you hadn’t already known and you’ll get to wiz past the sites you can return back to when yo have more time.

Alternatively, take a self-guided walking tour around Albany. Start by picking up a map and guide at the Visitor’s Center at 25 Quackenbush Square and navigate yourself past notable theaters, old churches, ornate houses, grand buildings and the river that gave rise to this city.

Museums

Albany’s two premier museums are the New York State Museum and the Albany Institute of History and Art, both worth the time and effort to visit.

Located on the southern end of the Empire State Plaza is the mammoth New York State Museum, the largest and oldest state museum in the country. It’s divided into three main exhibit areas: New York Metropolis, Adirondack Wilderness, and Upstate New York Native American peoples; in all covering a billion years of earth’s history. The displays are life-sized dioramas, sound and video shows, historical artifacts, and scientific specimens. Especially moving is the September 11^th exhibit. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Free admission.  More info:  http://www.nysm.nysed.gov/

What’s interesting about the Albany Institute of History and Art is the fact that it’s not just an art museum. It’s strives and succeeds to integrate both disciplines of art and history. The art and objects contained within tell the bigger story and try to explain in many cases how Albanians have lived through the past three centuries. Don’t miss the Hudson River school collection—the first American School of painting. Founded in 1791 the Institute of History & Art is one of the oldest museums in the United States. Wednesday–Saturday: 10:00am–5:00pm. Sunday: Noon–5:00pm. Admission: $10.  More info: http://www.albanyinstitute.org/

Architectural Highlights

The most distinguishable architectural complex of Albany is that of the Empire State Plaza. It’s a monumental area taking up the space of 40 city blocks including The Egg, Corning Tower, the New York State Museum, and additional government buildings.

The New York State Capital is worth a closer inspection, both outside and in. They offer free self-guide tours. While you’re downtown, take a walk past some other highlights like the State University of NY building, the old Union Station, City Hall, the New York State Education Building, and the Alfred E. Smith Building. Overall I was quite impressed by the architecture of Albany.

Lark Street and Washington Park

Lark Street is the bohemian neighborhood of Albany, lined with an assortment of small shops, art galleries, ethnic restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and coffee shops. East of Lark Street is the neighborhood of Center Square, a residential neighborhood of fine 19^th century homes and a pleasant place for a walk.

Continuing west from Lark Street is the Frederick Law Olmstead-designed Washington Park, an urban oasis of curvy roads, greens, gardens, and woods. In the summer, be sure to catch one of the plays or musicals at the Park Playhouse here at the Lake House.

Get the view

Before leaving Albany, make sure you visit the observation deck on the 42nd floor of the Corning Tower. This affords views for miles in three directions. It’s open Monday–Friday 10am-4pm. Free admission.

Why Albany?

History is the short answer. Albany is the oldest city in New York and one of the oldest in the nation. Henry Hudson arrived here in 1609 and by the mid-1600s the Dutch had settled a trading post known as Fort Orange. Today it’s a city dominated by the state government and the many institutes of higher education (more than 10 in the surrounding area!)

For many years Albany played an important role as the eastern terminus for the Erie Canal. Over the years it’s been home to writers Bret Harte, Hermann Melville, Henry James; and no less than five presidents got their starts in Albany. (Can you name them?) Today it’s got fine culture: museums, theater, dining, and architecture.

If you go:

The Albany Visitor’s Center is located at 25 Quackenbush Square. Check out Albany.org for more information.

Click through to see more photos of Albany.

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The library at Alexandria, Egypt

When I visited Egypt four years ago, I expected frustration and annoyance. I supposed I’d be hustled by street urchins and harassed by touts. I thought it’d be a junior India of sorts. I was wrong.

Granted, you’ll get annoyed if you follow every seemingly friendly Mohammed to his cousins souvenir shop. But if you travel smart and keep a positive and light-hearted attitude, you’ll love Egypt. Just like I did.

It wasn’t Pharonic Egypt that I fell in love with (but maybe it would have been if I made it to the Valley of the Kings or Abu Simbel) but modern Arab Egypt. I’m ashamed to admit that I didn’t even make it to the Egyptian museum. So what exactly was I doing in Egypt for almost a month?

I spent time relaxing on the shore of the salty Red Sea in the Sinai, crossed the broad expanse of the Nile delta, peered across the Suez Canal, ambled along the Corniche in Alexandria, journeyed out to the Siwa Oasis, and waited out Ramadan in Cairo.

I tried to assemble some of my favorite photos from my time in Egypt, part of a longer 6-month overland Middle East trip, from Istanbul to Cairo. Unfortunately, I didn’t capture the nighttime bustle of Cairo’s Islamic quarter, or the near vacant streets that daylight hours of the Muslim holy month witnessed. Photos couldn’t recreate the innate hospitality I experienced one evening while walking through a Cairo neighborhood as fast was broken.

Hopefully I have given you a sense of the raw beauty of the Sinai, the peculiarity of the Siwa Oasis, a glimpse of the famed Suez canal, a peek at one of the ancient wonders of the world, and the vast emptiness that is the Sahara Desert.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

This post brought to you in association with Holiday Inn Cairo. If you’ll be heading to Cairo on business anytime soon, consider holding your meeting at the Holiday Inn Cairo, one of the premier accommodations in the city, with consistently high levels of service and quality.

Soft Beach at Tarabin, Sinai

The beach in Tarabin, Sinai

Soft Beach, Sinai

Sunrise from Mt Sinai

The Burning Bush, St. Catherine’s Monastery, Sinai

The Pyramids at Giza

The Great Sphinx of Giza

Stephen at the Pyramids

Resting with camel, near the pyramids of Giza

The tourist police at the pyramids

Cairo

Alexandria’s Corniche

The Suez Canal at Port Said

Tire tracks in the desert near the Siwa Oasis

Sands dunes near the Siwa Oasis

Mud brick buildings in the Siwa Oasis

Sailboat in the Nile Delta

Click through to see more photos from Egypt.

By Stephen Bugno

Spain is known for its fierce regionalism, which makes traveling to each corner of the country a very different and interesting experience. It’s also known for its food culture, rich history, and fine climate. One warning about Spain: Be careful, because you might end up liking it so much that you don’t leave.

Galicia

The Green Countryside of Galicia.

Galicia is a remote and weathered region in the northwest of Spain. I walked through Galicia for a couple weeks en route to Santiago de Compostela, home to the cathedral that signifies an end for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, or Way of Saint James pilgrimage. Galicia is so green that it reminds me of Ireland. Although the relation is not only superficial; ancient Celts actually settled the region. Galicia is a territory with a people proud of their distinct language, culture, and cuisine. It is also one of the most underrated regions of Spain, with some of the best seafood in the world and a lesser-visited coastline.

Basque Country

San Sebastian's beach

On the coast of the Bay of Biscay in northern Spain, bordering France, is Basque Country. Its fierce regionalism has led to violence in the past, but that’s not what this region should be known for. Its language is an anomaly, unrelated to any of those surrounding it, known as a language isolate. San Sebastian, the queen of Basque resorts, is a universally favorite city in Spain. Nearby Bilbao is home to the iconic Guggenheim museum, and some good surfing. In either city, you can’t go wrong with a night out on the town, sampling the exquisite pintxos (Basque tapas).

Catalonia

Catalonia, in the northeast of Spain, borders France as well. Like other regions, it has its own language, Catalan. Visitors flock to self-confident and progressive Barcelona: the art, style, and food capital of Spain. In fact, Anthony Bourdain has called Catalonia the world’s new premier food destination (yes, even better than France). In addition to great beaches on the Costa Brava, Catalonia is home to the Dali Triangle, the architecture of Gaudi, as well as some of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain.

Madrid

Boating in Madrid's Park del Retiro

I lived in Madrid for almost a year and absolutely loved it. The lifestyle of the madrileños sucks outsiders in and keeps them. Hanging out at the traditional cafes and bars around the city, shopping in the crammed Rastro flee market, and a Sunday stroll through the Parque del Retiro should all be part of your visit. If it’s art you like, Madrid is home to three world-class art museums: the Prado, Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza.

Balearic Islands

Four main islands make up the Balearic chain: Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and Formentera. For the last 30 or so years, the reputation of these Islands has led many German, English, and Scandinavians booking repeated flights to Ibiza. Ibiza is the dance-until-dawn and gay-friendly capital of Europe. The best of the best DJs are flown in from all corners of the continent. Most revelers sleep their hangovers off the following day on any of the fine beaches under nearly-always perfect skies. The Balearic Islands may be mass tourism destinations, but if you look carefully, there are unspoiled and picturesque old-world towns on the island. Consider agro-tourism or exploring the countryside by car or scooter.

Andalusia

A village in Andalusia.

Comprising the southern part of Spain, Andalusia is the most quintessentially Spanish region: a land of bullfighting, flamenco, sherry, and ruined castles. Great cities like Seville, with its towering cathedral and Semana Santa festival; and Granada and Cordoba with their unforgettable Moorish architecture and history. After-all, this land was occupied by Muslims for 700 years. From trekking in Sierra Nevada to the beaches of the famed Costa del Sol, it would almost be criminal to visit Spain without stopping here.  

Getting a more in-depth look into Spain

For a closer look at Spain, its people, and cultures, consider Volunteering with Pueblo Ingles or VaughanTown.

If you’re thinking about teaching English in Spain, read Teaching English in Madrid.

A Taste of Alaska

By Michael Bugno

I’m a city boy through and through; nothing gets me more excited than the hustle and bustle of the crowds on a New York City street, the smell of roasted peanuts at the Nuts4Nuts cart, or the flashing lights of Broadway in Time Square. I like to be where the action is; however, even I need a break from the city, a city that so enormous that they had to name it twice: NY, NY.

Once I decided on a trip to Alaska, I was immediately amazed by how many folks, all from the lower 48, assumed I was going on a cruise. When I thought about cruising Alaska, my mind instantly turned to visions of retirees looking at glaciers through binoculars while standing on the deck of a cruise ship. I wanted an action- packed vacation full of adventure and excitement. I wanted to know the culture, not just the glaciers. So I said to myself, WWAD? (What would Alaskans do?) And so with that in mind, I departed Philadelphia for Anchorage, rented a car, and my adventures began.

Acting as an Anchorage Local

A wise old sage we meet on the Hike to Flattop Mountain, outside of Anchorage, Alaska

I arrive late, around dinnertime and what better to do than to head to Humpy’s, a local Anchorage bar. Tonight it’s Little Neck Clams and an Alaskan Amber. Served with a few slices of bread to dip in the broth and to eat with the clams, I quickly discover liquid crack, and like a good narcotic, I’m hooked!  Darwin’s Theory, another great local bar where more Alaskan Amber and Alaskan White is consumed is next on the list. I prefer the Alaskan white, similar to a hefeweizen. Much to my surprise, I learn at Darwin’s Theory that most Alaskans are actually transplants and all were extremely hospitable.  

The next morning I arrive at the Anchorage Museum, which was beautifully renovated and serves as home to some amazing pieces from the Emergence: Contemporary Native Art and Design Exhibit. I could have spent days there reflecting on all that I saw. Next stop, Chugach State Park, complete with a hike to Flattop Mountain that leads me to a grandmother picking wild blueberries. From this wise sage, I learn that Alaskan’s do a lot of canning and preserving of fruits and vegetables because it’s so expensive to ship fruits and vegetables to Alaska. Additionally, since it doesn’t get too terribly warm here, their growing season is quite short and they need to make the most of this window of opportunity.

Why Whittier? Why ask why?

Once I leave Anchorage, I drive the scenic Seward Highway to Whittier. As I drive, the Turnagain Arm, I don’t think photos or my description can do these mountains justice, their majestic heritage is displayed all around me. Simple in grandeur, trees line the lower half and glacier-sculpted rocks consume the top portion. It seems soft like silk, with a smooth drapery of snow that rests like hot fudge on an amazing rocky road sundae.

Jack the Moose - Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center - Portage, AK

At the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, I visit Jack the Moose – yes, he even has a Facebook page with more friends than I do. It’s quite humbling! I find myself back on the road to Whittier because honestly, who wouldn’t want to travel through a one-way tunnel that only allows cars into it on the half hour and out on the hour? It’s quite the experience. If you’re headed through here, make sure you check the time because the tunnel closes at 11pm for the night, so once you’re in, you’re in.

Being a foodie, I’d be remiss if I did not mention that Swiftwater Seafood Café has the most amazing Pacific Cod fish and chips. The cod, like butter, melts on the tongue. Even those who don’t like fish would think twice once they tasted this dish. The cod was fried ever so lightly with a thin dusting of breadcrumbs. And let’s not forget the Rhubarb Crisp for dessert, topped with vanilla bean ice-cream. What a perfect way to end a meal. Looking back on the trip, I realize that Alaskan’s fry food perfectly; others had overcooked the fish to death, killing any trace of true flavor.

Blueberries Anyone?

Waking up in Whittier gave me a glorious view of Prince William Sound. With the morning sun rising slowly, the mountains and water illuminated to perfection! The stillness of the water is breathtaking—a still mirror that reflects the beauty that surrounds it. Breakfast at the Lazy Otter – complete with eggs and reindeer sausage (sorry Rudolph); Reindeer sausage is a lighter and less potent version of kielbasa. The best thing, too, is that the taste doesn’t make a return visit like traditional kielbasa. Those of you who know kielbasa know all too well what I’m talking about. My apologies to all my Polish ancestors.

Glaciers en route to Portage Pass - Portage, Alaska

Back through the tunnel and off to Hotel Alyeska for the Alyeska Resort Blueberry Festival. If you’re thinking I’m going to talk about the amazing blueberries, you’re wrong. I would have, but sadly, there were none. Who hosts a blueberry festival without blueberries? In their defense, they had blueberry wine, but it was early and I was driving to Seward. Before that, I stop to hike the Portage Pass and to see my first glacier in person, but not from the deck of a cruise ship. As I sat and soaked in the view, many glaciers sat in beautifully blue water, like ice cubes in my freshly shaken Blue Hawaiian cocktail. It was intoxicating!

One fish, two fish – red fish, FRESH Fish

A tour guide told me that it rained last summer for 32 days straight, so to have amazing weather thus far, I was truly lucky. Rain was in the forecast today, so I suited in my Gortex, and headed to the docks for my noon tour of Resurrection Bay with the Kenai Fjords Tour. With an hour to spare, I check out the sites around town. I see a local fisherman guide hanging fish for that “prize photo shoot” with the fishermen that caught it, so I do what most tourists would do; I join in and start taking pictures. They hose off the fish and begin filleting them; Halibut, Salmon and Cod are the feature fish for the day. You don’t see that every day in NY, NY.

Lineup of Fresh Salmon - Seward, AK

Intrigued at the speed and precision of these fish being filleted, I start talking to the guide. He’s been doing this for years and can obviously multitask; he talks to me and fillets like the wind at the same time. I’m amazed.  He must sense the foodie in me, since he cuts a piece of raw salmon for me to taste; the result: it is the freshest sashimi I have ever tasted. As he continues to fillet the fish, a plethora of fish eggs appears – hello salmon roe. He tells me that I can eat as much as I want. The salmon roe melts in my mouth like the oozing chocolate from a warm soufflé.

On my boat tour of Resurrection Bay, I see hoards of puffins. To add to this, I see my first bald eagle outside captivity. I instantly realize that eagles possess all the qualities they stand for: pride, vigilance, confidence.

Living Glacier

Up and out to Nellie’s for breakfast, that’s Alaska Nellie’s place. Talk about a pioneer; this woman helped the lives of many panning for gold in Alaska. It’s a place rich with history and nostalgia. With a short drive, I’m off to hike Exit Glacier, a massive but rapidly melting glacier. While hiking, I see a sign with a picture of visitors from 1998; it’s amazing how much of this mass has actually disappeared in just 13 years. If this doesn’t make you want to pay attention to climate change, I don’t know what will.

The author in front of Exit Glacier, a glacier derived from the Harding Icefield in the Kenai Mountains of AK

As I sit and reflect upon this massive piece of solid ice, I overhear a guide say, “If you close your eyes, you can still sense the mass of ice before you. Feel its ‘breath’ as air by the glacier sinks, creating a catabolic wind. Listen to the creaks and groans telling you that gravity is pulling Exit Glacier down the slope. Hear the melted water flow through the cracks in the ice – sometimes in small drips, sometimes in raging currents. Now open your eyes and look for the glacier’s signature blue glow in deep crevasses. When light passes through ice this thick, all the colors of the spectrum are absorbed except blue.” This is a living, breathing metaphor for beauty.

Rafting vs. Cruising

I mentioned I wouldn’t be “cruising” this vacation, but that doesn’t mean I won’t experience the waters of Alaska. I would strongly recommend the “Upper Kenai Scenic Float Tour” with Alaska Rivers Company in Cooper Landing, followed by a 1.5 mile hike of Skilak Loops’ Hideout Trail. This is where I had the distinct pleasure of meeting some new friends that even dined with me and my friend at Sackett Kenai Grill; I strongly recommend the Cod Fish Tacos, and so do my new friends!

Suzanne and Michael at the Alaska Rivers Company - Cooper Landing, AK.

Throughout my adventure, there is not a cloud in the sky. As I hike the mountain, I stop to soak in its beauty and it occurred to me that there was nothing in sight except for the breathtaking bounty nature has to offer me.  I didn’t see a single home, road, tower, or person throughout.  It was simply me with God’s magnificent mountains, this flowing river and still lake. All around me, Alaskan fireweed swept down the mountainside like a dusting of pink chiffon. It’s times like this that I realize the philosophy of yin-yang is a good thing – the concrete jungle where dreams might be made could never compete with the majestic beauty of Alaskan scenery scape.

Words of inspiration from Joan

On my drive to Homer, via Cook Inlet, I stop in Clam Gulch and the Russian town of Ninilchik. As I peer out the window on this clear day, I see the illustrious Mt. McKinley, yet it’s over 500 miles away, but the visage is near perfect! Upon my arrival, I head to Homer Spit. Having just turned 35 years old, I’ve been awaiting this epiphany to learn where I’m supposed to be in life: should I still be working in Corporate America?; should I sell my home?; if I die today, what mark will I have I left in this world?; what have I done that would bring meaning to my life or to others’ lives?

Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik, AK - Established in the 1820's, Ninilchik is the oldest community on Kenai Peninsula.

Then, enter Joan from Maryland, who recently relocated to Homer, AK and who recently married after the passing of her first husband. Her new husband, Bill, who lost his wife, was a neighbor of Joan’s. From these two tragedies, a great love story emerged. As I share my story with Joan, she affirms my many thoughts and reminds me that decisions in life are not a sentence. Indeed, we can always change our minds about where it is we believe we should be. She continues to say that she has learned to live in the moment; we don’t always have tomorrow, so there’s no need trying to live five or ten years in the future. At some point, we have to live our lives for ourselves. And like the eagle hatching from its egg, the time comes when we must leave the comfort of the nest, spread our wings, and fly on the open air. We must allow the wind to take us to where it is we believe we belong.

Food Glorious Food

Breakfast at Two Sisters, the pecan sticky bun is fantastic! Warmed to perfection, and with the biggest pecans I’ve ever seen, I had a hard time sharing this with my best friend, Suzanne. Sharon, owner and master baker, has a gold mine! I begged her to come to Philly and to open a Two Sisters there. I’m afraid if you want to taste her masterful creations, however, you’ll have to go to Alaska!  In my adventure to do what Alaskans would do, I head to the Norman Lowell Gallery; he’s been painting the beauty of Alaska for over 20 years. I’ve never seen an artist use so many mediums and actually capture the reality of the image so perfectly. That afternoon, I venture back to the Spit and eat at Captain Patties. A trio of broiled halibut, salmon, and prawns serves as my final meal, like a soul on death row. The reality of this final dinner is a rude awakening for me because tomorrow I will be back in city of Brotherly Love, the land of “wiz” on cheesesteaks. Little fresh, buttery, and scrumptious fishies – how I will miss you so!

My brother is a world traveler and often goes exploring alone. To me, travel is more precious when shared with someone. I’m glad I was able to explore Alaska with my friend and photographer, Suzanne Tenuto. Fish is so much better when shared with two, wouldn’t you agree?

Photo credits: All photos by Suzanne Tenuto

Check out more of Suzanne’s photos from  Alaska. She’s a photographer based put of Philadelphia who primarily focuses on portraiture, but I l love her travel photography as well: landscapes, food, and wildlife. She blogs at: http://suzannetenutoblog.com/ Follow her on Facebook or Twitter.

Michael Bugno is employed as a Marketing Events Manager in New York City, commuting three days a week from his home in Philadelphia (not the kind of traveling he likes to do). Fortunately he has the opportunity to travel in the US and abroad with work and for pleasure visiting friends, revisiting fabulous past favorite destinations or exploring places totally new.

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