By Stephen Bugno

When I think of Vermont, I think about the Green Mountains, skiing, and dairy cows. I also think about beer. Vermont is tops when it comes to New England Brewing. In a region saturated with great beer, Vermont shines.

Much of my recent road trip through the northeastern United States revolved around brewery hopping. Unfortunately, the week before I arrived in Vermont, Hurricane Irene struck, and left much of Vermont in a state of disrepair. Bridges had been taken out, villages left in shock, farms flooded.

The Alchemist Pub and Brewery, which had been recommended to me by several beer connoisseurs, got flooded out in the town of Waterbury.

So instead of telling you the beer tour I actually took, I will tell the Vermont beer tour of my dreams.

The Breweries of Northern Vermont

After Waterbury, ideally I would head north to Rock Art Brewery. They run tours on Friday & Saturday at 2 and 4pm. Tastings run Wednesday to Saturday until 5:30pm with the purchase of a $3 souvenir glass. I didn’t get a chance to visit Rock Art, but did try a bottle of their Double Porter Smoked, which was absolutely fantastic. Visit Rock Art Brewery at their new facility at 632 Laporte Rd./Rt 100 Morrisville, VT. Ph: 802-888-9400.

A 45 minute drive east of Morrisville is Greensboro Bend. Here you can stop to visit Hill Farmstead Brewery. The retail store is open every Wednesday through Saturday from 12-5pm, and the only place you can purchase bottles of their beer. Visit Hill Farmstead Brewery at 403 Hill Road in Greensboro Bend, VT. Phone:  802 533 7450.

Twenty-five miles further east is Trout River Brewing in Lyndonville, VT. Phone: (802) 626-9396. Visit on Fridays or Saturdays from 4-9 pm.

The Southern Route

Harpoon

At the first mention of Harpoon, I thought “oh, they’re too big for my micro-brew tour.” But my friend George insisted that I give them a try, and I’m certainly glad I did. Although their bigger main brewery is in Boston, this second brewery location was set up in Windsor, VT, just across from New Hampshire on the famous Windsor-Cornish Covered Bridge.

The beer is not only tasty at Harpoon, but the tour is a lot of fun and the folks who work there are cool. They’ll teach you all kinds of nifty facts like only 6% of beer sales in the United States are of the micro-brewed variety. That leaves 94% to Miller, Coors, etc. (which are ALL foreign owned). Another little tidbit I learned was Leviathan, the name of their high gravity series, means “sea monster” in Hebrew.  Another highlight of the tour was the opportunity to taste the unfiltered “green beer”. At the end is a proper beer tasting with most of their Harpoon, UFO, and Leviathan beers included.

Harpoon Brewery is located at 336 Ruth Carney Drive in Windsor, VT. Phone: (802) 674-5491. Tastings are $5 and include a guided tour followed by a tasting. Tours are available on Friday at 5pm, 6pm, and 7pm; Saturday from 11-5pm (starting every hour), and on Sunday from 12-4pm (starting every hour). The Beer Garden is open until: 6pm. Web: http://www.harpoonbrewery.com

Long Trail

I hoped to make it to Long Trail Brewery, but alas, Irene was to blame again. Bridgewater Corners was a soggy island and unfortunately, I never got to try drafts at the source of their fine brew. But I’ve drunk plenty of their beer in bottles, which is OK because their packaging is so cool (check out their Double Bag label). Long Trail Brewery is open from 10-7pm and is located at the corner of Route 4 & Rt 100A in Bridgewater Corners, VT. Web: http://www.longtrail.com

Otter Creek

Located just outside of Waterbury, VT, I had wanted to visit Otter Creek Brewery since my first sip of Stovepipe Porter one winter long ago. I finally got my chance. Although their brewery is no longer open for tours, they do have a pub with big glass walls that peer into the brewery. They offer a tasting of six four-ounce pours of your choice for $6. Don’t leave without trying the Black IPA and the Wolaver’s Organic Oatmeal Stout.

Otter Creek is located at 793 Exchange St. in Middlebury, VT . Ph: 802 388 0727.  Open daily 11am-6pm. Web: http://www.ottercreekbrewing.com/

Now get out there and go taste beer

This beer tour of Vermont was designed so that a very ambitious taster could do it all in a weekend. The northern route would have to be done on Saturday and the southern route on Sunday. In a perfect world, Saturday night would be spent in Waterbury sipping brews until the early hours at the Alchemist and retiring for the night at a local B&B.

So take a friend along to drive you the course and take off Monday to spend hiking all those empty calories off in the Green Mountains!

See more photos from my Vermont Beer Tour.

Thanks for the great beer, micro-brewers of the Green Mountain State!

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Stephen Bugno beer-toured his way through Colorado and Northern California during the summer of 2010 and through New England in 2011. Porter is his favorite type of beer and he’s extremely grateful to be living in the Golden Age of beer in the United States. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com. Follow him on Facebook.

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

Geographically speaking, Turkey lies on the frontier of Asia and Europe. This location has influenced Turkey on many planes – culturally, historically, politically, economically, socially. The food, too, has seen influences of both worlds. Here are some of the Turkish delights you should try on your next visit (yes, pun intended).

Yaprak Sarma

Yaprak Sarma consist of wrapped vine leaves with a filling of rice, onion and spices like mint, currant, pepper and cinnamon. Usually served as an appetizer and ideal for vegetarians.

Lahmacun

This dish resembles pizza; it is flaky thin dough topped with finely minced meat and onions. Over time, it has become a popular fast food dish in Turkey, and many people roll it (to eat it like tacos).

Kebaps

Kepabs have become popular worldwide. For those who haven’t heard of them yet, kebaps consist of meat, coated around a skewer and grilled over a charcoal fire. The most typical version is made with lamb or beef, but nowadays you can also choose chicken.

Döner

Another popular dish that has been exported to many other countries. Döners consist of beaten pieces of meat, skewered on a spit and grilled vertically. Local herbs and spices are also added.

Köfte

Köfte are also known as meatballs, even though they come in all kinds of shapes. Basically, they are ground meat that is mixed with crumbled bread, minced onions and spices.

Manti

In the Western world, these would be called dumplings. The dish essentially has two parts: the dough and the filling. Usually, the latter includes ground beef or lamb, onion, salt and pepper.

Cacik

Cacik are best served in summer with some ice cubes. This way, the dish, which consists of a mixture of grinded or shredded cucumbers with diluted yogurt, garlic and mint, becomes even more refreshing.

Pilav

There are numerous ways of preparing pilav, but the easiest is probably sade pilav. This consists of plain rice, cooked in water with butter/vegetable oil and noodle-like small pasta pieces. Eggplant, chickpeas, meat or liver slices may also be added, as may spices like cinnamon, pepper, thyme, cumin and even almonds.

Baklava

Baklava is a dessert originating in the Middle East made of phyllo pastry filled with chopped nuts and soaked in honey.

Turkish delights

Turkish delights by Sebastian Piedoux

Turkish delights are jellied candies typically flavored with rose water. If you are in Istanbul, head to the Spice Market to try different variations.

Afiyet Olsun!

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com

By Stephen Bugno

In the past 14 months, I’ve driven across the United States more than 16,000 miles (25,750 km) during two extended road trips. Some of my earliest travel memories are from a Vegas to Albuquerque road trip through the southwestern US as a nine year-old. Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good journey on the road.

Good road-tripping to me means experiencing the places you travel through by interacting with people, absorbing the landscapes, eating the regional foods, traveling greener, not spending excessive money, supporting the local economy, and slowing down to enjoy yourself.

Stay off the Interstate

This is a point I’ve been trying to drive home for the past few years. The interstate—while occasionally scenic, is never interesting. Nothing worthwhile happens on limited-access divided highways except making good time. Even Steinbeck would agree with me. His 1962 Travels with Charley revolved around avoiding the interstate. If you drive the back roads, the scenic byways, the old US highways, your trip will be much more interesting.

Don’t stop at chains

McDonald’s and Arby’s, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut are not interesting to travelers—nor are they healthy. Mom and Pop dining establishments are generally unique, sometimes quirky and occasionally healthy alternatives. You’re more likely to run into locals and have an opportunity to try regional specialties and even eat local or fresher food. And what’s more important about a place than its cuisine?

Another one that’s important to me: no gas station coffee. It’s worth it to get a good cup of coffee at a coffee shop or diner. At least I know I’m supporting a local business while perpetuating my caffeine dependency.

Photo credit: Juno Kim

BYOS—Bring your own stove

You can’t eat every meal out—nor would you want to. Cooking your own food means a lot of things. One, you’ll be eating healthier. Two, it means you have the chance to buy local, fresh food. One of the greatest pleasures of my recent road trip through New England, was stopping at random farmers’ markets. I was buying vegetables in-season and supporting the local economy and small producers. Many times, coops or individuals will have their own fruit and vegetable stands right outside their homes, so you won’t even need to catch the weekly markets. Shopping this way also gives you an inside look at local food politics and movements (like the availability of grass-feed beef, organic produce, and raw-milk cheese).

Indulge in the local specialties

Taste wine in northern California, feast on lobster in Maine, eat Po’ Boys in New Orleans, have a sourdough breadbowl in San Francisco. This is what makes travelling so much fun.  Vermonters take their cheese seriously and Quebecers are proud of their maple syrup—enjoying their specialties makes them happy. Save your money for what’s important—I’ve always said I’d rather sleep uncomfortably and eat well.

Stop in small towns

This one makes sense all-around. While I don’t agree with my friend Gilbert’s idea that “big cities in the United States are not interesting”, I do see his point. The strengths of the United States are its natural and geologic wonders. Also, I would argue, it’s in the small towns and rural areas that the essence of the nation really shines through. Furthermore, whether it’s Kansas or New Hampshire, people in small towns are really friendly. On an economic level, supporting the economies of the little towns is a good thing—and they are less-expensive than cities. Fewer cities in your itinerary means less traffic, less trouble finding parking spots, less overall stress.

Make it longer—Take it slow

Try to minimize your daily driving and take more time to enjoy the places you’re traveling through. Sometime I plan two days to drive to a place I know I could easily make in one driving day. The truth is, I will find something of interest along the way, and in turn will stop to spend a few hours, even if it’s just to linger over a long coffee or take a walk through a town park. I’ve done plenty of intensive sightseeing and trips with filled itineraries, and while I don’t regret those experiences, I’d still prefer to take it slow and not only “see” things, but try to soak in the atmosphere of the places I’ve traveled so far to see.

Drive slower

Making a few minor adjustments can make your road trip as economic and environmentally-friendly as possible. While driving isn’t the greenest option, it’s still better than flying in most cases. First thing you can do to save gas (petrol) is by slowing down. You’ll get better fuel efficiency by not driving like a maniac. Also try to reduce the amount of stuff you bring along; a heavier car wastes more gas. Additionally, make sure your tires are inflated properly and the engine air filter is clean.

Pack a tent

Traveling with a tent allows the obvious: camping and opportunities for backpacking (trekking). Camping saves money over hotels, and wild camping, if you can find it, saves money over campgrounds. A good tip for camping in the United States is to try to find National Forest land, where you can camp for no fee. This works well in the western US where there is a plethora of public lands. Trekking can be a good way to break up a long road trip. On recent road trips, I hiked multi-day treks in the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Sierra Nevada of California.

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Stephen Bugno has been road-tripping since before he could see over the steering wheel. He’ll brake for free camping, a coffee refill, or to wait for moose to cross the road. He’s just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

by luis_psrng

 Oktoberfest has long become an international tourist destination. And while most of the Munich natives certainly speak some English, the festival still retains its traditional Bavarian origins. (To read more about that, check out my article on the history of the Oktoberfest.) When celebrating its 200-year anniversary in 2010, the Oktoberfest in Munich included a special section devoted to showcasing its history. Because this special was such a success, it will be included again this year. To come prepared, why not learn a few Bavarian words and phrases before you arrive? Here are 10 essentials:

 1. Bier (beer)

To many, Oktoberfest is synonymous with beer festival. Ordering beer is easy, and the fact that “bier” in German is pronounced the same as in English makes it even easier. Just be sure you control how much of it you order!

2. Prost (cheers)

In many of the tents, you will hear the notorious song “Ein Prosit, ein Prosit…” Prost means cheers in Bavarian, so before you drink that Mass Bier (1L beer), be sure to say that.

3. Brez’n (pretzel)

Bavarian pretzels in no way compare to the fake version that is sold on the streets of New York, for example. In fact, upon taking some Munich natives to the Big Apple, they were appalled at the pretzel that is sold at food trucks here; “it tastes like plastic, they said.” The true Bavarian version, on the other hand, is soft and made of fresh dough. You can get them in different sizes and they are a great way to assure that all that beer doesn’t get to your stomach so quickly.

4. Hendl (grilled chicken)

Hendl at Oktoberfest are either ordered as a half or a whole. The most typical is to get Hendl with Pommes, which means French fries.

5. Knöd’l (dumplings)

Bavarian dumplings have nothing in common with the Asian version. The German ones can come in different variations. For example, you can get Semmelknödel, which means dumplings made of bread (spices are added, too, but they tend to be very mild). Kartoffelknödel, on the other hand, are made of potatoes. Usually, they will be accompanied by a creamy sauce.

6. Wies’n (Bavarian word for Oktoberfest)

This word refers to the Theresienwiese, which is the festival ground where the Oktoberfest in Munich is held. The name goes back to the fact that in 1810, the Oktoberfest was initiated as part of the royal wedding celebration of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese. Her name still resonates in the tradition of the Oktoberfest today and is also the name of the subway stop where people get off to go to the festival.

7. Ox’n (meat from the ox)

In addition to chicken, there are hundreds of whole oxen being prepared for Oktoberfest. The place to get this kind of meat is at the Ochsenbraterei, literally meaning the place where the oxen are roasted.

8. An Guad’n (Bon Appétit in Bavarian)

So you’ve already learned how to say “Prost,” which applies to cheers for drinking. To cheer on the eating, An Guad’n will help you out.

9. Apfelshorle (apple juice mixed with sparkling water)

Sure, beer is the standard. But for those who don’t want to get drunk (or vary things up a bit), you can order this drink: apple juice mixed with sparkling water. It’s a great refresher after going on all those rollercoasters and bumpy rides.

10. Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick)

Those who want to take a break from meat (or don’t eat it in the first place), can opt for grilled fish on a stick. The best place to get these is at the Fischer Vroni tent.

An Guad’n!!

For more on German foods, read: Top 10 German Foods

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com.

By Noel Lau

“There’s no cheap way to get to Machu Picchu,” said the guide who was trying to sell me a tour. Seeing Machu Picchu had always been a dream of mine but I wasn’t going to join a tour. Getting to Machu Picchu can put a dent your pocket. I was at the end of my South American trip, so I couldn’t afford the expensive Inca trail nor did I want to cheapen my experience there by taking the train.

The ruins close up: Terrace planting field on the left, temple in the center and living quarters on the right.

Arriving in Cuzco, I set out to find information about an alternative route I’d heard from other travelers. I found that it’s quite easy and straight forward; I could do Machu Picchu in two days. So that night, I went back to the hostel to pack a small bag and left my big one at the hostel. Most hostels allow you to do that without extra charge.

The Alternate Route

The next day I left quite early to catch the 7am bus from Cuzco’s Santiago bus station to Santa Maria. There are departures every 15-30 minutes. The bus ride usually takes around 6 hours and cost 15 soles ($5 US). However, since it had rained heavily two days earlier causing some landslides, my journey took eight hours. Besides two German travelers, most of the people on the bus were locals returning to their villages after doing their business in Cuzco. Women and men with gurney sacks and shopping bags squeezed their way into seats, while salesmen came on board and talked for hours selling all kind of medicines and goods.

Local women selling food on wheelbarrows by the side of the road.

At around 12pm the bus stopped at a small roadside village. We got off the bus to be greeted by local women and children selling cheap ($ 1-2 US) and delicious food on wheelbarrows. There were passengers from other buses and lorry drivers too. The whole road was blocked for us to have lunch. It soon became a market place with people standing, sitting and squatting in the middle of the road enjoying their meal.

I arrived in Santa Maria just after 3pm. It’s a tiny crossroad hamlet with a few shops and restaurants. There are combi (shared taxi) waiting to take people to the nearby villages. The one I took cost 8 soles ($3 US) and took 45 minutes to the village of Santa Teresa. As this alternate route becomes popular, drivers will charge foreigners more, so make sure you bargain and check with the locals if they are paying the same. The road to Santa Teresa is unpaved and there are many blind corners. My heart stopped every time the car turned a sharp corner or drove close to the edge to let on-coming cars through; it didn’t help that I was sitting at the window and could see the 200m drop to the ravine below.

When I got to Santa Teresa I took another combi to Hidroeléctrica (the hydroelectric plant and the last train station) for 4 soles ($1.50 US). Since there are not many people going there, it could be a long wait to fill up the combi. I was lucky to be with the two German guys and we found an old man going that way as well so we got to Hidroeléctrica in 30 minutes. If you don’t want to wait, you could walk there in two hours. And if your timing is right, you could hitch a ride with the lorry that takes workers to and from the plant. On my return trip, I hitched a ride this way from the plant to Santa Teresa.

Me at the beginning of the track along train track to Machu Picchu village.

From Hidroeléctrica, you could take the train for 18 soles ($6 US) and in 30 minutes you’ll be in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu village), but there are only 3-4 services a day. Or you could walk along the train tracks for 10km to get to Aguas Calientes.  We decided to walk. We chatted, enjoyed the view and saw some small ruins. When it got dark, I was lamenting for missing out on seeing the scenery but then fireflies came out of nowhere and accompanied us all the way. I felt like I was in a fairy land. That really made my day.

Shoestring Accommodation and Food

We arrived in Aguas Calientes just after 7pm tired and dirty. We went straight to the Tourist Office to get the entrance ticket for Machu Picchu. It costs 126 soles ($45 US) for adult and 63 soles ($22 US) for students with ISIC card. At night Aguas Calientes is like a well-lit amusement park surrounded by dark imposing Andean Mountains. There are hotels and restaurants to suit all budgets, however finding something for shoestring budget proved to be a challenge. Finally we found a room for 12 soles ($4 US) each at Hotel No.1. There’s no street name, so to find it, go up the street where the Tourist Office is and take the 2^nd right turn, you’ll see it at the end of the street on your left just before the river. But the hot water was out so after a freezing shower, we went out looking for food.

Macchu Picchu from a look out point.

Not wanting to pay $10 for a meal, we decided to explore the little village. On the next street just behind the hotel, we crossed a bridge and found ourselves surrounded by locals, there were no tourists at all. We entered a simple but nice restaurant and had a set meal for 8 soles ($3 US); it was delicious and filling, just what we needed after a long day. As not many tourists venture to that part of town and it’s where the locals hang out, things in the supermarket are cheaper. We bought our snacks there for the climb to Machu Picchu the next day. You can’t bring food into the site, but bottled water and snacks are allowed in a small backpack.

Climb to the top

I woke up at 4am and had a small breakfast before setting out. The gate at Puente Ruinas only opens at 5am. From there it’s a steep climb to the top. It took me one huffing-and-puffing-hour. I stopped many times to catch my breath; even chewing coca leaves didn’t help.

Me on top of Wayna Picchu with Machu Picchu below.

Alternatively, you could catch a bus near Puente Ruinas for $7 (one way). The first one departs at 5:30am. There’s usually a queue so make sure you get there early. In high season, I was told that people start queuing at 4:30am.

Your Machu Picchu ticket also allows you to go to Huayna Picchu. But since they only allow 400 people to climb daily, it’s advisable to get there before the many bus loads of people. I was really happy to find out that I was among the first 400. Although it’s another hour of steep climbing from Machu Picchu, the view from up there was spectacular and make Machu Picchu look small and ant-like.

The Return

Machu Picchu far exceeded my expectations. I was so happy and smiled like a fool the whole time I was there. It literally took my breath away. I was there during low season and I was able to find moments and places to be alone to feel the mysteriousness of the place. After spending more than six hours drinking in the amazing sights, it was time for me to leave.

Getting down was much easier. I was back in Aguas Calientes in less than an hour. After a much needed lunch and before starting my return journey, I rested at the main square watching the goings and comings of the people. I saw a local woman combing her daughter’s hair outside her small restaurant as they waited for their first customer; I saw an old European couple, tired and dirty after conquering Machu Picchu, enter an overpriced western restaurant; I saw children in their school uniforms chasing each other without a care in the world; I saw two young Japanese ladies smiling as they looked at photos they had taken. It was hypnotizing. Reluctantly, I started my journey back; the same way I came.

However there is an alternate route: walking along the train track in the other direction, towards Cuzco, for 10 hours to Ollantaytambo. From there, you can take a shared taxi for 10 soles ($3.50 US) back to Cuzco. I was really tired and couldn’t imagine walking another 10 hours.

The going was slow and in Santa Maria, I had to wait four hours for the next bus. I was so exhausted I fell asleep on a bench next to a sleeping old man. I finally reached Cuzco at 2am. Lying in bed overwhelmed by fatigue, a sense of bliss and contentment washed over me. After fulfilling a dream, it was time to dream another.

This post was brought to you by Travel Insurance Cover, an Australian company offering policies that provide protection against the unexpected when traveling. Benefit from coverage for medical and hospital expenses, cancellation fees and lost or stolen luggage (as detailed in the policy wording), as well as worldwide emergency assistance. Arrange a quote for travel insurance online.

Noel Lau has been traveling and working his way around the world for the past decade. Most recently he has been living in Colombia after a year of slowly crossing the South American continent by bus, boat, and plane. He blogs at Wander2nowhere.com

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

Argentina is known as the meat lover’s paradise. Thus, it is no wonder that the top ten Argentinean foods will include several delights for carnivores. For the vegetarians among you, options might be a bit more limited. But there’s always dessert to save the day! Read on to find out the specifics.

Asado

Asado literally means barbeque. Basically, it can entail any kind of meat to be grilled on the parrilla, meaning the barbeque grill. Especially during the summer, the asado becomes a communal event for family and friends to get together. Everyone contributes what he or she can, and there is usually one person in charge of actually grilling the meat. Others can contribute by setting the table, making a salad, etc. The sight can be quite a spectacle; it is not uncommon to see an entire lamb being grilled. Vegetarian options include grilling potatoes, corn and other vegetables

Chorizo

An asado without chorizo would be a sin in Argentina. Chorizo is a spicy sausage usually made from pork. It is grilled alongside the other meats. Note that blood sausages are also common. As you can see, in Argentina it’s all about the meat.

Empanada

Empanadas are common in Spain, Chile and other parts of the world, but that doesn’t mean they’ll be the same as in Argentina. First, however, let me explain what they actually are: empanada literally means something that is breaded. In this case, however, it is more of a flour dough that is then filled with various ingredients. Typical fillings include meat, chicken, ham and cheese, mozzarella and tomato. At some establishments, you can even get whole-wheat variations with vegetarian fillings such as pumpkin or zucchini.

Matambre

Matambre by leshoward

The name of this food comes from the saying “matar el hambre,” meaning to kill one’s hunger. Matambre is a long, thin slice of meat that is rolled around a filling, which usually includes spinach, onions, sliced carrots and hard-boiled egg. Together, these are simmered in stock until the meat is tender. After that, it is drained, cooled and sliced. As an appetizer, it can can be had at any hour of the day, but usually is consumed for lunch and/or dinner.

Milanesa

In Europe, this would have been called a Wiener Schnitzel. That is, a milanesa is a thin breaded meat. In Argentina, it is often served for lunch with French fries, or even as part of a sandwich. Usually, it will be meat-based, but some establishments have expanded to include chicken options (milanesa de pollo). Ask before you order if it makes a difference to you. Among vegetarians, milanesas de soja (breaded soy burgers) have become popular.

Pizza (Argentinean style)

Argentina still retains much of its Italian influence, and the pizza is part of that. In contrast to Italy, however, Argentina’s pizza is usually made with thick dough. You can get it everywhere; from the nearby street vendor as well as at a fancy restaurant. In fact, at some establishments, you can even buy it by the meter!

Conventional toppings include ham and cheese, mozzarella and tomato, traditional margarita, as well as variations with pineapple, corn and hard-boiled egg. Go down south to some of the Patagonian refugios and if you get lucky, the mountain hut owner might even teach you how to make the dough.

Media Luna

Finally, we come to the purely vegetarian options. Media luna literally translates as half-moon and is the equivalent of a French croissant. It is typical to eat several media lunas for breakfast, and they are also served as a traditional snack to be had in the afternoon.

Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche is the Argentinean reply to jam or honey. But really, it doesn’t compare to either. This speciality is made from boiling condensed milk up until the point when it becomes a thick caramel paste; hence the brownish color. It can be eaten at almost every hour of the day, as well as during snacks in between. You can have it by itself, or smear it on a croissant or simply a piece of homemade bread. The typical version is the alfajor, which we come to next:

Alfajor

Alfajores are short bread cookies that now come in a series of variation. The most traditional is the one with dulce de leche, which is where two short bread cookies are joined together in the middle with the caramelized condensed milk. It might even be topped with coconut shavings (as in the picture above) or dipped in chocolate. A good brand to try is Havana.

Submarino

Yes, submarino means submarine. But only when you know what this is will you understand why it goes by this name. A submarino is a glass of hot milk that comes with a bar of chocolate. The latter is then submerged in the milk, letting it melt. Hence the name submarino. It’s a delicious version of hot chocolate that you can really have at any hour of the day!

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com

By Stephen Bugno

I want to give independent travelers an idea of costs for traveling in Malaysia because it can be really helpful when planning your budget. I hear a lot of travelers complain that Malaysia is more expensive than Thailand. That may be true in some cases, but I noticed that very touristic places in Thailand, such as beach resorts like Ko Phi Phi, can be more expensive than the average place in Malaysia.

Laksa, a typical breakfast dish in Malaysia

Typically, prices in West Malaysia (peninsular Malaysia) are a bit cheaper than Borneo. Additionally, with the abundance of adventure tourism in Borneo, greater expenses can add up quite quickly. Especially when you factor in flying to and from Mulu National Park, which can easily add an extra $150 US to your trip.

Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Malaysia.

A day’s expenses in Malaysia

Approximately 3 Malaysian Ringget = 1 US dollar.

Breakfast: dim sum, kaya bun (baked), and tea at a Chinese bakery:  5 RM

Local bus to bus station: 1.50 RM

Bus from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan (about 6 ½ hours): 25 RM (bargained down from 30)

Lunch: Beef rendang with veggies, rice and tea at rest area:  6.50 RM

Local bus into city:  .90 RM

Hotel (shared double room at 38 RM): 19 RM

Afternoon tea with banana fritters: 2 RM

Dinner on the waterfront: 7 RM

Lime juice on ice at bar (for free wifi): 2 RM

Total:  68.9 RM = $23.16 US

A fishmonger in Kota Kinabalu's might market

Meals, accommodation, and transport

When I did multi-day treks in the National Park or wildlife sightseeing tours, expenses averaged  $40-50 US per day. Most travelers in Borneo do one or more of these trips, so factor that into your budget.

Prepared meals, transportation, and accommodation are quite inexpensive in Malaysia, although maybe not as cheap as in neighboring countries like Indonesia and Thailand. But if you are careful about spending and stay at the simplest guesthouses or hostels, eat at local kopitiam (“coffee shop” hawker stalls), and use public transportation, you could budget between $20-30 per day. Add additional for above mentioned tours.

Air Asia, Malaysia's budget airline

In my experience, dorm beds have run from 15–40 RM and basic doubles with shared bath from 35-70 RM. Meals at street stalls and hawker centers range from about 1.50 RM for “economy” noodles to 6 RM for a nice bowl of laksa. Long distance buses are a good value as well. The 5 ½ hour trip from Penang to Kuala Lumpur is about 30 RM on a spacious, air-conditioned bus.

Malaysia is NOT one of the world’s great beer drinking nations, so I have almost eliminated beer out of my routine. The cheapest you can find beer is 5 or 6 RM per 330ml can. In bars it is much more expensive (8-20 RM). Being a Muslim-majority nation, you’ll have to search out bars or Chinese owned eating establishments to get a drink. My advice is to save your beer drinking for Vietnam!

Stephen Bugno is currently on a three month tour throughout southeast Asia including Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. He edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

Germany is known for its beer. Each year, thousands of tourists flock to Oktoberfest in Munich, just to savor the taste of a true German brew. From Weissbier to Pils, to Starkbier to Helles and Dunkles, Germany certainly offers a rich variety to choose from. And while some may consider a beer filling in itself, the country does offer some very delicious foods, too. Here come the top ten:

Brez’n

The perfect accompaniment to a Mass, meaning 1 Liter, beer. In English, people know the Brez’n as a pretzel, but in no way does the genuine German version compare to the ones they sell on the streets in New York, for example. The real German deal, which originates from the south in Bavaria, is fresh and soft. It is also often sold with butter, which would make it a Butterbrez’n. If you can’t get hold of either, – which is highly unlikely, – Germany boasts the world’s widest range of breads. Whether you like your dough with raisins, walnuts, sunflower seeds, carrot strips or made out of whole wheat, you can find it in Germany.

Wurst

As with bread, there are Würste, meaning sausages, of all sorts. While Berlin is notorious for its Currywurst, Bavarians eat Weisswurst mit Süßem Senf. The former is pretty self-explanatory; it is a sausage with curry on top. The latter, however, requires a bit more getting used to; Weisswurst is a white sausage that you have to peel, and to enhance its taste, people enjoy it with Süßem Senf, meaning sweet mustard. Another Bavarian treat is the Wollwurst, which combines calf and pork. In Thüringen or Nürnberg, in turn, try the Rostbratwurst mit Sauerkraut, a grilled sausage accompanied by sauerkraut.

Schweinebraten

Carnivores will certainly get their share of delights in Germany. While sausages are great to consume at the markets, if you are actually going to sit down at a restaurant, have a go at a Schweinebraten. Schwein means pig, and so a Schweinebraten is a pork roast. It’s best if you get a nice, large boneless pork shoulder. Usually, it is served with some kind of accompanying sauce and Knödel, meaning dumplings.

Brathend’l

Moving on to chicken now. A Brathend’l is a roasted chicken. Some see it as a unique treat to be consumed on Sundays and festivities, but over time, it has become a standard that is sold at many of the outdoor beer gardens and markets. At Oktoberfest, you can get coupons for a Halbes Hend’l, meaning half a roasted chicken. It might appear to be a lot at first, but with a Mass Bier and some Brez’n, you’ll have it down in no time.

Steckerlfisch

Enough said about meat. With its many lakes and rivers, Germany also has fish options to choose from. Steckerlfisch could technically be considered a type of fast food as they are often grilled outside, at a beer garden or otherwise. But they taste a lot better than your average fish ‘n chips. Up north, in turn, you can try the Nordsee Krabben, literally meaning North Sea crabs. Hering (herring) and Rollmops (pickled herring) are also popular.

Eintopf, also known as “Pichelsteiner”

Germany can get quite cold in the winter, and soups are popular. The Eintopf, however, is more than a soup. Topf literally means “pot,” and this dish involves cooking a mix of meat and vegetables in it. In the olden days, it emerged as a way to combine leftovers and thus there was no one specific recipe; one day, it might carry carrots, another only potatoes. This tradition remains to this day, and because of the easy preparation, the stew is served in homes and restaurants alike.

Käsespätzle

Up until this point, vegetarians have probably been despairing. With Käsespätzle, however, there is no need to do so. Spätzle are a type of egg noodle, which are frequently topped with Käse, meaning cheese. The latter is usually mild, and more often than not, cooks opt to add roasted onions for a little more flavor. In some places, the Käsespätzle are served directly with the pan – be careful, it’s hot!

Lebkuchen

Though they are sold year-round, Lebkuchen are most popular at Christmas time. Originally from Nürnberg, Lebkuchen are made of gingerbread dough, and can come coated with chocolate, walnuts, dried fruits, and other treats. The standard are round, but tradition has it that people make entire Lebkuchen houses, too. These are then called Hexenhäus’l, meaning witch house.

Rote Grütze

Rote Grütze takes advantage of the countless forests of Germany. Specifically, in that it uses the berries that grow in them. The dessert combines anything remotely red (hence the name “rot”); that is, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, cherries etc. Usually, it is served with Sahne, meaning cream, or Vanilleeis, meaning vanilla ice cream.

Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte

Another treat thanks to the forest. Schwarzwald refers to the Black Forest, and Kirsch means cherry. This calorie bomb combines the antioxidants of cherries with the sweetness of chocolate, all into a multi-layered cake. The image says it all – you won’t leave Germany hungry.

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com.

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By Avery Sumner

I’ve got a full bladder and a thread thin polyester blanket stretched around me. I can’t reach the valve for the cold flow of air pouring over my seat and I can’t get up to use the bathroom because there’s a half eaten microwaved meal on a tray table locking me in place.

Wine barrel airplane. Now that's alternative energy! At Mas de Gourgonnier, an organic vineyard in Provence making a good quality boutique wine as well as olive oil.

Each time I take this flight between France and the United States I wonder how it is I paid (in my free lance world) the equivalent of one or two months’ salary for these conditions. The misery isn’t even rewarded with a rich tale to recount or reflect on later. It’s just a sterile, uncomfortable and really damned expensive experience. Add to that the massive environmental costs of the flight and the fact that if this plane goes down the likely-hood of survivors is, well, unlikely, and voila, you see the inspiration behind this article.

Though I haven’t found an alternative to the flexibility of ocean-crossing flights, I have found some general flying alternatives that make me feel more comfortable about the possibility of these being my last moments. So what could be better than cramming myself on a jet in the final hour? How about cleating the halyards of a sailing vessel headed toward somewhere far, or resting under a blanket of stars so thick I think I can see tomorrow.

Our bus travel in Senegal. Rough going but so much more fun than the sterile airport!

If you share my sentiments, maybe you’ll appreciate some of the alternative ways I’ve found to travel.

Freighter

A good option if you have time and a flexible budget. Contrary to popular belief, traveling by freighter is not cheaper than flying. Freighters generally cost around 100 € a day. From where I live in France to an eastern port in the United States I can pretty much count on 10 days. So for about 1,000 € I can get home one way. My last round-trip flight from Barcelona, Spain to Cincinnati, Ohio cost around 600 €, a big difference from the 2000 € a round trip freighter passage would have cost me.

But if I chose to go by freighter I’d be paying for ten days at sea with meals and room included. In essence, a cruise of sorts, with the added bonus of getting me where I want to go. A friend married to the captain of a working ship recently took her first voyage with him. She wrote me saying:

I had the most relaxing and pleasant three months perhaps of my life – sleeping, eating, reading, walking on deck and seeing the beautiful ocean, seas, gulfs, clouds, sunsets and sunrises as a regular part of my daily life. I also enjoyed watching the ship’s activities as we traveled through the Suez Canal and around the Middle East in the Red Sea, Persian Gulf and Arabian Sea.

Most people who travel by ship do it as a cheap way to get away for extended periods. A few books with such accounts are:

Travel by Cargo Ship by H. Verlomme
Running Away to Sea: Round the World on a Tramp Freighter by George Fetherling,
Around the World by Freighter by Bob Hartley
Bureaucrat to Tramp: A Freighter Cruise Adventure by Kenneth M. Peterson
Also the blog: http://goingeast.ca/blog/http:/goingeast.ca/blog/category/freighters/

But if you’re interested in booking a ship in place of a direct flight to a destination of choice, you’ll have to be prepared to pay more, plan more and relax more. Bookings need to be made at least six months in advance and even then, your departure could be delayed as ships change schedule according to unanticipated need.

So for my once a year trip back to the United States I would need to pick a date well in advance and then be prepared to spend 20 days at sea (round trip) with about a week’s wiggle room on either side to account for delayed departures. As difficult as this may sound, it’s entirely possible. The managing director at The Cruise People Ltd [Trans-Atlantic Passenger Ship Service] recently wrote me, “By the way we have a few regular clients in France and we have regular commuters by ship, one of whom does so to/from Australia and another to/from Singapore.” Sounds like I need to get my spontaneous life in order and join the ranks of responsible folks committed to an air-free lifestyle.

Two of the most helpful booking companies in my efforts toward this direction have been:
http://www.cruisepeople.co.uk/
http://www.freightercruises.com/

You can also book passages directly with ships. The friend I mentioned above told me, “I read that French Container Carrier CMA CGM of Marseilles is offering voyages around the world (or parts thereof) on six of their medium-sized container ships.” Going to your nearest port might also prove fruitful.

Another helpful site is http://wikitravel.org/en/Freighter_travel

Sailing/Crewing

One of the most energy efficient ways to travel is with the wind. Better known as hitchhiking across oceans, travelers wanting to crew on sailing vessels have to work to find the ride.

Berths can be found on charter boats, boat deliveries, cruising sailboats and on boats making ocean crossings, circumnavigations or year-long voyages. The most important thing a would-be crew member has to offer is free time as few people can just take off and leave a job or family for weeks of sailing.

The largest marina in Europe is in La Rochelle, France

Crew posts out of New England, Scandinavia and England can be found in sailing magazines and local yachting newspapers. But the best place to look for positions are at the ports where sailors often set out for ocean crossings or where they stop to re-provision. The key is being there at the right time.

The best ports and seasons are:

• Gibraltar from October to December for Atlantic crossings, April to June for heading into the Mediterranean (also Malta, Rhodes, and Piraeus have similar seasons)
• Canary Islands from October to January to cross to South America and the Caribbean
• La Rochelle in France is home to the largest marina in Europe, could be a good place to find rides to the Canaries or Gibraltar
• Antigua, Barbados, St. Thomas and Puerto Rico from October to November
• Panama any time of year, May for west-bound boats
• Tahiti around July 14
• Singapore and Honolulu, months depending on direction desired
• Miami, San Francisco, Long Beach and San Diego for charter boat posts
• Beaufort, NC is a famous jumping off spot for sailors headed into the Caribbean
• Floyd’s Hostel and Crew House in Fort Lauderdale, FL is good for jobs and crew posts
• Fort Pierce, FL boasts the cheapest marina fees on the east coast of Florida, a good place to find sailors doing work to their boats preparing for long winter cruises

The beach at the marina in Dakar, where world sailors moor for cheap.

Expect to spend two or three weeks at each port searching for a crew position. One way to lessen the cost of hanging around a port is working on a yacht in the harbor. You can get paid for varnishing or painting while gaining a good reference for a would be skipper looking to take you on as crew.

Things to consider before signing on to crew:

• Do you have enough extra cash for airfare home should you find yourself in a bad situation (Most major airlines give a 25 percent discount on one-way fares to seamen/women repatriating? You’ll need proof that you’ve been removed from a vessel’s crew list at a foreign port).
• Can you get along with a crew 24 hours a day for weeks on end?
• Why is there a vacancy on the vessel?
• Will you be charged for food and fuel, if so what is your share?
• What will your duties be?
• Is there a written contract for the exchange?
• If you’re the only woman on board, have you made a few short trips with the crew before taking off for a long voyage?
• What experience does the captain have?
• What shape is the boat in?
• Are you traveling light, with only one bag or back pack?

For more advice get a copy of Lin and Larry Pardey’s Self Sufficient Sailor.
The chapter Hitchhiking across Oceans is very detailed and full of personal experiences.

Mailboats

For island hopping voyages, a great way to see local life is to travel by mail boat. They’re slow going, but the price is right and the vantage point about as real as you can get. A good place to try this traveling style is in the Bahamas where mailboats reach the most remote out-islands in the chain. http://www.bahamas-travel.info/mailboat.htm

Over Land Travel

It’s really hard to resist dirt cheap deals through European airlines like Ryan Air and Easy Jet or US companies like Jet Blue. I know, I could fly to Morocco for 50 € tomorrow if I wanted. It takes a genuine commitment to traveling with a conscience to decline such offers. Just consider the gigantic carbon footprint left by jets and the insulated poor quality of experience you get from them. Remind yourself why you’re traveling in the first place and you’ll easily bid adieu to jets for good.

Train Jaune here in the Pyrenees. It's a slow going electric train that dates from 1910. It runs along the mountain sides offering stunning views.

Though expensive, nothing beats the comfort or adventure of traveling by train, especially super fast trains like the TGV in France. And if you do your research, buses can often be quite economical. In my department in France I can take the bus anywhere I want to go for 1€. Though not necessarily the fastest mode of travel, the experience is almost never dull.

If you simply can’t afford mass transportation prices, ride-shares are economical and gaining in popularity. Unlike hitchhiking, where timing and benevolence are chance, ride-sharing is a planned carpool with everyone sharing gas expenses. Sites like Craig’s List in the United States, Allostop in France and Mitfahrgelgenheit in Germany are good places to start. Often times independent local bookstores, coffee shops and natural food stores will post ride shares on bulletin boards.

But if time is no consequence, the richest traveling experiences are always on your own power. When you know your traveling lifestyle is sustainable for budget and planet the choice is easy.

Get inspired to pedal

Bikes in Burgundy at the hotel Le Cep.

http://www.adventurecycling.org/
http://www.pedouins.org/history.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/euhansen.html#rollyourown
http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/?

Get inspired to walk:

http://www.ffrandonnee.fr/
http://www.go4hiking.com/news/a-very-long-walk.html
http://www.appalachiantrail.org/site/c.mqLTIYOwGlF/b.4805859/k.BFA3/Home.htm
http://www.cdtrail.org/page.php
If You Only Walk Long Enough by Steve Cracknell
A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail By Bill Bryson

Away from the crowds Yoyogi Park.

Editors note: At first I hesitated in publishing an article with “party” in the title after such a short period of time since the devastating tsunami, but this post is part of the #JapanLife and #Blog4Japan which aims to bring attention to Japan from bloggers around the world.

Before publication, author Tom Shuttleworth assured me that the “recent terrible events in the north of Japan have reverberated as far as Tokyo. Yet despite reports of a capital in crisis, Tokyoites are a resilient bunch and are getting out and getting on with life. This year’s hanami (cherry blossom parties) will go ahead and will offer the city a chance to reflect and kick start the rebuilding of a damaged, but not defeated, nation.”

By Tom Shuttleworth

Tokyo is unlikely to be competitive in any list of the world’s most aesthetically pleasing cities.  Yet, at the end of March/early April, when the cherry blossoms bloom, the ashtray grays and prefab designs of the urban sprawl only serve to highlight the delicate beauty of this ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ flirtation with stunning nature.

Sakura (cherry blossom) draws the city’s residents out in their droves to set up camp under the trees for a picnic and a party.  If you want chaos, contemplation, romance or a personal photo worthy of any coffee table publication, this is the time to come to Tokyo.

So, where’s the party at?

Ueno Park

Not the best place for a quiet nap Ueno Park.

Ueno used to be the big hitter in Tokyo.  That was until the more important transport links (and thus all the money) moved to Shinjuku and Marunouchi.  Its last remaining glory is its park.  Whilst the rest of the area begins to resemble a back street of Bangkok’s Khao San Road area, the park brags about having the highest concentration of world class museums on the planet, and a whole load of cherry blossom trees to boot.  This idle boast keeps Ueno firmly on the tourist map.  Indeed, what could be more civilized than strolling around a park littered with Rodin’s sculptures framed by the fragile beauty of cherry blossom?

Well, not quite.  Ueno’s beat streets have always crept into the park.  It has a large homeless community, student layabouts from nearby Tokyo University and a smattering of budget backpackers looking to kill time in a free museum.

The park has no grass (a bit odd for a park) which makes comfy seating tricky.  Space under cherry blossom trees during weekends is at a premium and sheets of tarpaulin are laid down under the best trees earlier than a German holidaymaker’s towel on a sun lounger.  That said, the robust, no frills Ueno character makes for a hearty atmosphere, with everyone enjoying the simple pleasures of beer, the outdoors and the company of friends.  Plus, if staring at flowers for hours on end is likely to induce boredom then there are those world class galleries and museums to break up the day.

Elbows out! - Main sakura avenue, Ueno Park

Shinjuku Gyoen

Whilst most visitors to Shinjuku are siphoned out of the chaos of the world’s busiest train station into tower blocks and strip clubs, Shinjuku Gyoen remains a stately oasis of calm.  In fact, with so much hallucinatory neon in Shinjuku, it’s easy to forget that it’s here at all.  Strange then, that it should be so arrogant as to have ticket gates and an entrance fee.  It must be trying to keep out the riff raff.

This is a park that frowns upon frivolity and unchecked fun.  Breaking out the Frisbee or football on its inviting swathes of manicured grass is forbidden and be sure not to leave behind beer cans and cigarette butts.

The landscape here has been thought about.  Everything has its place, its design and it affords plenty of romantic views through trees to towering skyscrapers.  What it lacks in party atmosphere it makes up for in aesthetic appeal and abundant space.  The photo opportunities couldn’t get more Japanese unless you moved the whole set-up to the base of Mt. Fuji.

Shinjuku Gyoen is a place to enjoy the serenity of sakura rather than it being an excuse to get drunk outdoors.

Yoyogi Park

Away from the crowds Yoyogi Park.

Yoyogi during cherry blossom season (everything is a season in Japan, even two weeks) is a toned down version of your favorite summer music festival, with petals.  No surprise really, given its proximity to the ‘I’m hipper than you are’ districts of Shibuya, Harajuku and Omotesando.  So, expect lots of funky young hipsters, groups of students and Western guys ogling the local talent.  All of which comes replete with a turntable trance soundtrack and the lingering whiff of empty beers cans.

Away from the main areas, however, Yoyogi is welcoming to all with plenty of space to breathe and do, well, anything you want – play sports, jog, strum your guitar, rehearse your one man art show or smooch with a lover.  In a way, Yoyogi is like McDonalds, a leveler of society.  Whoever you are, however much money you have, no one cares.  Just hang loose and do your thing.

Yoyogi comes highly recommended.  Just don’t come with your parents, you square!

Marunouchi

Time for a little romance Marunouchi.

Marunouchi occupies the geographical heart of Tokyo.  It’s an area of wealthy business and national politics.  The Tokyoites around here wear Italian made leather shoes and shop for hardback books on business plans and economic futures.  No one would dream of Shinjuku’s sleaze or Shibuya’s pop trash.  Hell, there isn’t a ‘red light’ establishment to be seen.  And, for Japan, that is unusual.

The centerpiece for this civility is the residence of the Imperial family, an unseen palace surrounded by cherry blossom trees, imposing grassy banks and a network of moats.  At one point, this was the site of the largest castle in the world, hence the moats.  The castle no longer stands but the pathways that circulate the area make for a pleasant stroll through some beautiful avenues of sakura.

Seating in this area is limited and thus very crowded.  However, setting up camp misses the point here.  This a place to walk arm in arm with a partner or stretch your legs whilst setting the world to rights with a good mate.  Along the route (maps are available but not needed) there are some great places to get that quintessential ‘Japanese’ photo—branches of cherry blossom reaching out to the water, framed by the exotic curl of a temple roof.

If you want a hassle free, fluid viewing experience, this is the place to come.

Yasukuni Shrine

Despite any controversy Yasukini Shrine remains a popular place to see the cherry blossom.

For anyone in the know, Yasukuni might seem an odd place to enjoy the casual frivolity of a sakura party.  This is a shrine that houses the spirits of Japan’s war dead along with some Class A war criminals.  Annual visits by leading politicians draw understandable anger from neighboring Korea and China whilst draconian, right-wing, lunatics often use it as back drop for their brain hemorrhage inducing diatribe.

The shrine and its grounds are a juxtaposition of the imposing and the fragile, perhaps befitting of its purpose.  There are authoritarian pillars and delicate gardens, a mighty looking tori (gate) and of course, lots of cherry blossom.

When it blooms, Yasukini becomes inexplicably popular.  The long avenue that leads to the shrine plays temporary home to myriad of stalls and BBQ’s.  Tables and chairs are laid out under the blossoming trees and the robust food is washed down with plenty of cheep beer.  Things here really kick off late afternoon/ early evening when the office workers clock off.  You’ll be sharing space with business types who don’t want to get their suits dirty by sitting on the ground and giggle like school children when the breeze causes an impromptu shower of nature’s confetti.

Is having fun in such a somber, controversial place inappropriate?  Is it a sign of remembrance infused with a desire to look forward positively?  Or, is it simply the nearest place to catch some cherry blossom after work?

Do some research and decide for yourself.

Tom Shuttleworth is a keen traveler, having backpacked on five continents and currently lives in Tokyo where he has been working for three years. This is his first article for GoMad Nomad.

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