By Stephen Bugno

For some this is the quintessential China experience. I must admit, after countless bus rides, hotel check-ins, and big city headaches, this river’s foggy stillness came as a relief. It may be extremely popular and touristy, but there is no denying the beauty that this river and the Three Gorges possess.

Choose your Cruise

There are a variety of ways to cruise the Yangtze—hydrofoil, passenger ships (ferry), tourist boats, and luxury cruises. Usually GoMad Nomad would be advocating the most inexpensive and local experience, but in this case, an explanation is needed.

The passenger ships sail continuously and pass through some of the most dramatic scenery during the night. Hydrofoils might be a good option, but they travel quickly and offer no outside seating for the gorge views. Additionally they only run from Wanzhou to Yichang (although bus connects you from Chongqing). Tourist boats will probably be the best for low-budget travelers. They are marketed mostly towards Chinese tourists, may speak little English, but usually stop at sights along the way. Luxury Cruises are aboard international-standard ships, include visits ashore, and include English-speaking guides.

Chongqing to Yichang

Chongqing to Yichang is the route I took, but you could also do the reverse, going upstream. There are endless options including trips from 3 to 12 days, even going as far as Shanghai. Your standard tourist or luxury cruise is going to last four days and hit the most scenic part, the Three Gorges, in between Yichang and Chongqing. As far as I know, Chongqing is the furthest upstream you’re likely to go.

A Little Background

The Yangtze has changed immensely in the past decade due to one event: the building of the Three Gorges Dam. Completed in 2006, the dam has tamed the third longest river in the world. It’s the largest dam in the world by length (2.3 km) and will soon become the largest hydro-electric producer in the world. In addition to generating electricity, the dam was intended to increase the Yangtze River’s shipping capacity by subduing the once rough sections as well as reducing the potential for floods downstream by providing flood storage space. The Chinese government regards the project as a historic engineering, social and economic success. However, it has drowned several important archeological sites, displaced 1.3 million people, increased the occurrence of landslides, and been the topic of international debate. It cost US $26 billion to build.

What you’ll See

You will see the dam. Although, I’ll warn you, it isn’t much of a spectacle—the astonishing feat is one evident in the numbers only. I think it’s hard to appreciate the engineering marvel with a view from the far edge of the dam. It’s located in the Xiling Gorge, west of Yichang, and costs about $18 US to visit, although some cruises will include your entry fee.

The Three Gorges and other Sites

The highlight of any trip on Yangtze is sailing through the Three Gorges. Qutang and Wu Georges, which begin 450 km east of Chongqing, near Baidi Cheng, are the climaxes. Here, the waters narrow and the cliffs rise. Despite the new water levels with the creation of the reservoir, the gorges are still very impressive.

At Wu Gorge many ships dock for an excursion up the Daning River through the Three Little Gorges. From what I hear, this is an excellent side trip. My ship sailed right on through Wu Gorge, which stretches for 45 kilometers. Near the end of Wu Gorge we boarded a smaller vessel and tugged up the placid Shennong Stream. When this gorge became too narrow we transferred into another, even smaller boat which was rowed by four oarsman. At the end, they pulled us by rope from the shore, as was done in the old days here.

Other stops along the way include White King Town at the ancient town of Fengjie and the twelve-story wooden pagoda at Shibaozhai that can be climbed for closer inspection. It’s been built using no nails, grafted onto the side of a cliff.

When to Go

Keep in mind December—March is the low season which means lower rates and a more tranquil journey. April and May have the best weather, but the biggest crowds and price tag. In October and November the weather is cool, but the masses return.

Costs

Costs listed are approximate and dependent on the time of season, length of trip, and class. Off-season might save you some money for the top-end cruises and getting a berth in a multi-passenger cabin will save you money on the other ships. Prices listed are based on a trip between Yichang and Chongqing or visa versa. Hydrofoil: $65 US. Passenger ship and tourist boats: 2^nd class: $77; 4^th class $50. Luxury cruise: $350+ Top-end luxury cruise: $450+

More information

I wrote a series of 3 posts describing the day to day events of the cruise:

Cruising the Yangtze Day 1: Leaving Chongqing

Cruising the Yangtze Day 2: The Three Gorges

Cruising the Yangtze Day 3: The Three Gorges Dam

Yangtze River Cruise Photo Set on Flickr

Disclosure: GoMad Nomad partnered with ChinaTours.com for this Yangtze River Cruise. ChinaTours.com provides booking options for a variety of Yangtze River Cruises as well as other tours for traveling through China.

It’s impossible to give a report of traveler’s expenses for China as a whole because prices differ extensively from region to region. So for this post, I’m going to focus on Yunnan Province, a destination in which I spent over a month traveling. It is a fascinating region with spectacular landscapes and diverse peoples. It’s popular with travelers, but there are still places to get off the beaten track if desired.

Despite high prices in China’s larger cities, as well as in the provinces of north and east China, Yunnan is still an incredible travel bargain.

I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia and what it costs to travel in Laos.  I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be quite helpful during the planning stages.

Keep in mind $1 US = 6.3 Chinese Yuan (CYN) (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Yunnan Province:

A day’s expenses in Yunnan:

Breakfast of noodle soup with chicken:  6 CYN   ($ .95 US)

8 km taxi ride to Cangshan trail head:  15 CYN  ($ 2.38 US)

Entrance fee to the Park area:  30 CYN ($ 4.76 US)

(Avoided a 80 CYN ($12.70US) Cable Car fee by hiking)

Lunch: bread, fruit, snacks bought from supermarket: 14 CYN   ($ 2.22 US)

Dinner: twice cooked pork, bok choy, Kung Pao chicken, and rice: (52 CYN for two) 26 CYN ($4.12 US)

Dali Beer  (518ml): 5 CYN ($ .79  US)

Accommodation in Dali: 80 CYN (40 CYN pp if shared) ($ 6.35 US)

 

Total:   136 CYN       ($21.58  US )

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$25 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler and can share a room. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $20 or less per day. Consider that costs in Sichuan, Guangxi, and Guizhou are comparable to Yunnan.

Travelers can eat well in China. For breakfast, noodle soup or dumplings are usually about 6 CYN. In an informal restaurant or café, vegetable dishes usually run about 10 CYN and meat dishes nearly double. They are normally shared. With rice and tea, two can eat well for less than 20 CYN apiece. Nicer restaurants or foreigner-aimed cafés might be double that price.

Transportation costs are as follows: For a 15-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 203 CYN ($33.22 US). That’s what it cost us from Jinghong to Xiaguan (Dali new city). City buses are cheap: usually between 1 and 2 CYN and taxis are not too expensive at about 1 to 2 CYN per kilometer. As a general rule, trains are cheaper than sleeper buses (unless you ride soft sleeper class in the train or are travelling on the super-fast trains). An 18-hour train journey from Guilin to Kunming cost us 175 CYN in hard sleeper class. Read why that trip was a forgettable experience in: Night Train to Kunming. 

Accommodation is a good bargain in Yunnan. It pays to travel with a partner here—sharing the cost of a room. You can normally get a decent double room for less than 100 CYN ($15.87 US). We’ve paid as little as 40 CYN before, but those are not places I would recommend staying. Hostel beds usually run between 25 and 35 CYN ($4—$5.55 US)and are generally only available in the places popular with travelers: Jinghong, Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, and Shangri-la.

To rent bicycles, we paid 10 CYN for the whole day, but saw other shops renting better quality bikes for 35 CYN and up.

A warning about Entrance fees

Be forewarned that entrance fees to sights are outrageously high in comparison to the rest of the costs associated with traveling in Yunnan. Read why I had to see the Three Pagodas in Dali from outside the gate. I’ve seen ticket prices for a temple at 60 CYN ($9.50 US) and larger, more important sites costing 100 CYN, 150 CYN, or more! Unfortunately, we had to pass on more than one attraction because of cost.

China is a challenging place to travel as a foreign independent traveler. The extremely difficult spoken language makes it difficult to convey even the simplest ideas. Budget extra money for mistakes, e.g. booking a ticket to the wrong city or the wrong time, not knowing the correct prices. You may find yourself scribbling Chinese characters down on a note pad in order to communicate with people.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are common and reliable throughout China but expect both banks to take a bite out of your transaction. I prefer to take cash (and keep the money secure in my money belt at all times) a pay no exchange fee. I believe Bank of China is the only place to exchange currencies.

Making the most of your travels through Yunnan

Yunnan is a fascinating and inspiring place to travel. Costs are only going to go up and Chinese tourists are going to come in higher number in the future. New roads are being built, railways expanded, and cities enlarged.

My advice would be to get here soon. Although China is modernizing rapidly, the ethnic minorities of Yunnan seem to be holding on to their distinct customs and traditional way of life.

Have you traveled through Yunnan recently? How much did you spend per day?

By Gabi Logan

For travelers with itchy feet and empty pockets, WWOOFing sounds like the perfect opportunity. You can stay for free (with food included) amid such picturesque rural locations as olive orchards in Italy on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, rolling hills covered with lavender in the south of France, and blossoming cherry orchards in Japan.

“Sign me up!” you may be thinking, and while there are few drawbacks–you’ll even get a great tan–WWOOFing is not something you should rush into.

WWOOFing essentially means having your home, job, and social life all confined to one, often isolated, place and a handful of people. Wouldn’t you thoroughly check out the situation before accepting a job or signing a lease on an apartment?

Ask these key questions before confirming your WWOOFing stay to make sure that you–and your host–are happy with the arrangement.

What do you want to get out of the experience?

This is the only question to ask yourself and not your host, but it’s a biggie. Do you want to learn a skill like how to make cheese or garden organically or prepare artisanal marmalade? Or are you just looking for a new kind of work exchange experience or free room and board for a few months? 

The WWOOF organization is very staunch about the fact that WWOOFing is a knowledge and cultural exchange, not just a work for lodging quid pro quo. The President of the Italian WWOOF association, Claudio Pozzi, relayed to me that “if there is not sharing and exchange, the relationship becomes one of subordination, and that is the domain of other organizations. I want to reiterate that [for us] work is not a form of payment for hospitality.”

If you are not keen on learning something from your experience, whether it is specifically about organic farming or more generally about your host’s language, culture, or lifestyle, WWOOFing is probably not the best match for you. Look into a more general work exchange network like HelpX (http://www.helpx.net/).

What type of work goes on when you’ll be visiting?

Some WWOOF hosts are technically on top of things, providing a Google calendar outlining what type of work goes on each week or spelling out a rough overview of the main focus of each season in their WWOOF listing. Even in these cases, and especially when this information is not available, it’s worth discussing the planned projects with your host before confirming your stay. Otherwise you may find yourself sterilizing barrels and presses at a winery for a month instead of actually learning how to make wine, or bundling hay for three weeks instead of learning to make goat cheese as happened to a fellow WWOOFer.

When will you work?

Life in the countryside begins early. Whether there are animals that need to be fed, vegetables that need to be picked and packed for the market, or difficult labors to be finished before the midday heat sets in, you’ll probably be expected to start at 8 a.m. at the latest. Check on the typical morning hours with your host so you don’t find yourself in a place where work starts at 6 a.m. when you’ve never managed to get up before 8 or 9 in your entire life. Likewise, check which days your host expects you to work. A five day work week is not the norm on a farm, though religious households typically take a day off as a matter of course. Be clear up front if you expect to travel on the weekends.

How long will you be expected to work?

Before I embarked on my first WWOOFing experience, I was bewitched by a story in the Guardian in which the writer and her friend worked in the garden each morning, enjoyed a filling lunch made from local ingredients with their hosts, and set out each afternoon to explore the Tuscan countryside–even taking advantage of local thermal hot springs to nurse their sore muscles. Imagine my surprise when my host assumed I would work 8-10 hour days six or seven days a week! Setting (preferably in writing) an expected number of work hours before you arrive gives you something concrete to point to if you feel like you are being taken advantage of.

Will you be staying with other people?

For some travelers, meeting other adventurers is a big part of the experience. But if you’re not totally comfortable sharing close quarters with total strangers–a young female having to share a small room with a 40-year-old guy for two months for instance (true story)–ask your host about the situation in advance. They’ll probably already know who will be around during that time and may have a private or semi-private option if you ask far enough in advance. Watch how you ask though; I saw a WWOOF host laugh hysterically at the presumption of a couple who asked if they could stay in a private room.

Where will you stay?

As we covered in GoMad Nomad’s WWOOFing 101 guide, accommodations can vary from a private, self-service apartment with internet, full kitchen, tv and sitting areas to a tent or sparse caravan. Before you leave you’ll want to know whether you can expect to stay inside or not, and whether your electronics will be secure (or even rechargeable) during your stay.

Can you get into town (or to other towns) on your own?

If you are just looking for a rural experience, an isolated host is no problem. But being stuck in an inaccessible part of Tuscany with no way to explore Florence, Chianti, or the surrounding towns could put a big damper on your plans to use WWOOFing as a base to see the region. Ask your host about local transportation or other options for WWOOFers; some hosts have bikes available for their volunteers or will be happy to drive you to the nearest train station or show you around themselves.

The difference between a sob story WWOOFing experience and the time of your life can either come down to chance or preparation–it’s up to you if you want to take your chances with Lady Luck. 

It can be really difficult to get in touch with hosts, but asking you host these key questions before you confirm your stay ensures that you take control of your WWOOFing time and end up with the best situation for you.

Gabi Logan is a freelance blogger and travel writer. While renovating a Ligurian farmhouse on a recent WWOOFing trip, she finally found a way to put her Italian literature degree to use: bonding over Dante with her hosts.

By Stephen Bugno

Despite inflation and inflated expenses for travelers, Laos is still an inexpensive place to travel. I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia. I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be extremely helpful during the planning stages.

Keep in mind $1 US = 8,000 kip (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Laos:

A day’s expenses in Laos:

Breakfast buffet in Muang Ngoi (including coffee): 20,000 kip   ($2.50 US)

One hour slow boat ride to Nong Khiaw:  25,000 kip  ($ 3.13 US)

Papaya Shake at café with free WiFi: 10,000 kip ($1.25 US)

Lunch: curry and sticky rice: 20,000 kip   ($2.50 UD)

Rent mountain bike for the afternoon: 30,000 ($3.75 US)

1.5 liter water: 5,000 kip ($.63 US)

Dinner: Mok Sin (steamed fish in Banana leaf) and sticky rice: 20,000 ($2.50 US)

Beer Lao (640ml): 10,000kip ($1.25 US)

Traditional Lao Herbal Sauna: 15,000 kip ($1.88 US)

Accommodation in Nong Khiaw: 40,000 kip (20,000 pp if shared) ($5.00 US)

 Total:   190,000 kip       ($ 23.75 US )

 

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$20 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $15 or less per day. Consider that Luang Prabang and Vientiane are more expensive than the rest of the country.

Transportation costs have risen since I last visited. For an eight-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 90,000 kip ($11.25 US). Expect most tuck-tuck and songthaew drivers to overcharge, so bargain hard.

For slow boat costs check out my Guide to Slow Boats in Laos.

Accommodation can vary. I’ve paid as little as 30,000 kip ($3.75 US) for a room. Budgeting between 50,000-80,000 ($6.25-$10.00 US), however, is more realistic. Keep in mind this will only get you a basic room with an attached bathroom. In Laos, it pays to travel in a pair, because the room is the same price for one or two people.

To rent bicycles for the day, it usually cost between 10,000 and 30,000 kip.

An hour-long Lao massage usually goes for 40,000-60,000 kip ($5-$7.50 US).

Depending on the way you view Laos, it can be a traveler’s nirvana or could be the source or frustration.

Although Laos is a friendly and tranquil place to travel, it is in many ways a little traveler’s paradise in the sense that the whole backpacker infrastructure has been set up. It is here you’re likely to spend most of your time. There are small guesthouses and bungalows that cater exclusively to foreign travelers, either because Laotians don’t wish to travel or don’t have the money.

This also means many of your bus trips will be more than half-filled with foreign travelers and your slow boat trip may not include any locals at all. So if you’re fantasizing about an all-Laotian boat ride down a remote river, think more realistically.

Laos is an easy country to travel within because those involved in tourism have enough of a grasp of English to make travelers feel comfortable and menus are usually printed in English. Laotians don’t often eat out, so if you desire something above basic noodles, you’ll have to go to a tourist-oriented eating establishment.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are becoming more commonplace in Laos. Throughout SE Asia, it’s always a good idea to carry US dollars on your person for visas and for emergencies. Occasionally the ATMs don’t have money, they are temporarily out of order, or the power is out. Most towns in Laos have an ATM but don’t count on them everywhere, so make sure you have enough kip before traveling into the countryside.

Making the most of your travels through Laos

If you don’t make an effort to leave the comfort of the Banana Pancake Trail, your trip is liable to be relaxing and chilled-out, but it won’t involve very much interaction with locals beyond superficial contact.

Last year after traveling almost a month in Laos, I wrote Why I don’t like Laos. And while I would add that I don’t dislike Laos, these are just a few of the things I mentioned which frustrate me while traveling there.  I’d never dispute the friendliness of Laotians or the placidity of their society. Add I’ll probably end up traveling there again.

Have you traveled through Laos recently? How much did you spend per day?

By Gabi Logan

For independent travelers, WWOOFing is an ideal way to travel slowly and inexpensively and learn something along the way.

But what is WWOOFing? How do you do it? Why on earth does the word have two ‘w’s?

What is WWOOFing?

Officially, WWOOF stands for “World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms,” but among travelers and hosts, the older name “Willing Workers on Organic Farms” persists, emphasizing the very human component of the organization. Volunteers work for free (sort of) for organic farms all around in the world, from Turkey to Taiwan to Tonga.

In its early years in the U.K., the organization was known as “Working Weekends on Organic Farms” and focused more on giving city dwellers an opportunity to get out into the countryside and support the organic movement. Short stays taught visitors about the movement, but weren’t the ideal situation for farmers, who were investing a lot of time teaching volunteers who were only around for one weekend.

Reflecting this need, the organization shifted away from directly organizing trips for volunteers and toward individual long-term farm stays, acting more as a resource facilitating the connections between volunteers and farms. The organization briefly adopted the name “Willing Workers on Organic Farms,” but governments took issues with people “working” on farms without work visas, and the name changed to its current form.

Today, volunteers organize their own farm stays, contributing their work to organic farms in exchange for meals, a place to stay, and training from in ecologically-sound agriculture.

WWOOFing Terminology

If you visit any national WWOOF organization, you’ll find that very specific terminology has evolved to describe these unique arrangements.

“WWOOF” is the name of the international organization overseeing all national WWOOF chapters, but is used primarily as a verb, describing the act of organizing and going on a farm stay or the work itself. For instance, in Italian, you can say you “fare lo WWOOFing” (do WWOOFing).

The farms, vineyards and orchards where volunteers stay are called hosts, similar to an immersive language-learning homestay. The volunteers themselves are known as “WWOOFers,” which may sound a bit like an onomatopoeic name for canines, but actually sounds much more charming in non-English accents.

Who Should WWOOF?

The main requirement for WWOOFers is an interest in organic farming practices. The organization emphasizes that this is not just a way to arrange a cheap vacation. Beyond that, you need to be okay with roughing it and physically able to complete manual labor tasks.

Some hosts provide nicer accommodations than others, in a guest house, private apartment, or hotel room if they run a hotel on site. But these opportunities are more the exception than the rule, and many hosts offer simple campers or tent sites for WWOOFers. If you have a real need for multiple hot showers a day and modern, indoor accommodations, you’ll need to really screen the hosts.

Likewise, the work WWOOFers perform is not equally demanding in all WWOOFing locations. With some hosts, you can work primarily in the kitchen canning jams or making herbal tinctures, but other larger farms may have odd jobs like building a shed or a stone fence that WWOOFers need to help out with. If you have any serious physical limitations, let your prospective host know in advance so they can decide if you’re compatible with the work at their farm.

What do WWOOFers do?

If you envision riding around on tractors and milking cows when you hear “farm stay,” you’ve only imagined a small part of the possibilities of WWOOFing. In some areas, hosts fit into this pastoral farm mold, but more often than not, hosts are small, independent operations specializing in a one product or type of agricultural output.

You can learn to make goat cheese in the Alps, blend pinot noir in Australia, run an agrotourism school in the south of France, harvest olives and make olive oil in Portugal, build irrigation systems in Ghana, heard cattle in Argentina, or grow papayas in Hawaii.

The basic premise remains the same no matter where you go or what kind of agricultural operation you visit: WWOOFers work roughly five to six hours a day five days a week for their hosts. Early mornings are typically the norm, so you may work from 7 am or 8 am till lunch at 1 pm or 2 pm or put in a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening in hot climates with stifling midday heat.

Where Can You Go?

WWOOFing is an ideal vehicle to explore both developed countries and developing destinations that are difficult to visit independently, including many countries in eastern Europe, the Caucuses, and Africa.

More than fifty countries have their own national WWOOF organizations, and another 50+ are on the independent list, meaning there is no national administrative body, and you can WWOOF there with a membership from any other country. For a full list of the countries that currently host WWOOFers, check out the national organization list (http://wwoof.org/natorgs.asp) or the independents lists (http://www.woof.org/independents.asp).

How Do You Sign Up?

First things first: pick the country you’d like to WWOOF in.

One of the main downsides for travelers looking to WWOOF is that you have to sign up for each national WWOOFing organization separately. So if you are trying to assemble a year of WWOOFing around Europe, you’ll have to sign up separately for membership in the British, Swiss, French, Spanish, Greek, and Italian organizations.

After providing your biographical information through the national organization’s online form, you send in a membership fee, typically around $30-$40. Many countries accept payment by Paypal these days, but for some countries, you’ll have to factor a few weeks for your check to arrive into your travel plans.

Once these materials have been received by the national WWOOF administration, they’ll send you a host list and a membership card. You can’t begin a WWOOFing trip without your membership card, and many hosts will ask to see a copy of it by email before accepting your request to stay with them.

***

Many national WWOOFing organizations have a list of opportunities you can browse for free before signing up for membership. Take a look through some listings in Brazil (http://www.wwoofbrazil.com/pre_host_farm.htm), Kazakhstan (http://www.wwoofkazakhstan.org/hosts/), and Italy (http://www.wwoof.it/gb/list.html) to get inspired.

Gabi Logan is a freelance blogger and travel writer. While renovating a Ligurian farmhouse on a recent WWOOFing trip, she finally found a way to put her Italian literature degree to use: bonding over Dante with her hosts.

By Stephen Bugno

When I think of Vermont, I think about the Green Mountains, skiing, and dairy cows. I also think about beer. Vermont is tops when it comes to New England Brewing. In a region saturated with great beer, Vermont shines.

Much of my recent road trip through the northeastern United States revolved around brewery hopping. Unfortunately, the week before I arrived in Vermont, Hurricane Irene struck, and left much of Vermont in a state of disrepair. Bridges had been taken out, villages left in shock, farms flooded.

The Alchemist Pub and Brewery, which had been recommended to me by several beer connoisseurs, got flooded out in the town of Waterbury.

So instead of telling you the beer tour I actually took, I will tell the Vermont beer tour of my dreams.

The Breweries of Northern Vermont

After Waterbury, ideally I would head north to Rock Art Brewery. They run tours on Friday & Saturday at 2 and 4pm. Tastings run Wednesday to Saturday until 5:30pm with the purchase of a $3 souvenir glass. I didn’t get a chance to visit Rock Art, but did try a bottle of their Double Porter Smoked, which was absolutely fantastic. Visit Rock Art Brewery at their new facility at 632 Laporte Rd./Rt 100 Morrisville, VT. Ph: 802-888-9400.

A 45 minute drive east of Morrisville is Greensboro Bend. Here you can stop to visit Hill Farmstead Brewery. The retail store is open every Wednesday through Saturday from 12-5pm, and the only place you can purchase bottles of their beer. Visit Hill Farmstead Brewery at 403 Hill Road in Greensboro Bend, VT. Phone:  802 533 7450.

Twenty-five miles further east is Trout River Brewing in Lyndonville, VT. Phone: (802) 626-9396. Visit on Fridays or Saturdays from 4-9 pm.

The Southern Route

Harpoon

At the first mention of Harpoon, I thought “oh, they’re too big for my micro-brew tour.” But my friend George insisted that I give them a try, and I’m certainly glad I did. Although their bigger main brewery is in Boston, this second brewery location was set up in Windsor, VT, just across from New Hampshire on the famous Windsor-Cornish Covered Bridge.

The beer is not only tasty at Harpoon, but the tour is a lot of fun and the folks who work there are cool. They’ll teach you all kinds of nifty facts like only 6% of beer sales in the United States are of the micro-brewed variety. That leaves 94% to Miller, Coors, etc. (which are ALL foreign owned). Another little tidbit I learned was Leviathan, the name of their high gravity series, means “sea monster” in Hebrew.  Another highlight of the tour was the opportunity to taste the unfiltered “green beer”. At the end is a proper beer tasting with most of their Harpoon, UFO, and Leviathan beers included.

Harpoon Brewery is located at 336 Ruth Carney Drive in Windsor, VT. Phone: (802) 674-5491. Tastings are $5 and include a guided tour followed by a tasting. Tours are available on Friday at 5pm, 6pm, and 7pm; Saturday from 11-5pm (starting every hour), and on Sunday from 12-4pm (starting every hour). The Beer Garden is open until: 6pm. Web: http://www.harpoonbrewery.com

Long Trail

I hoped to make it to Long Trail Brewery, but alas, Irene was to blame again. Bridgewater Corners was a soggy island and unfortunately, I never got to try drafts at the source of their fine brew. But I’ve drunk plenty of their beer in bottles, which is OK because their packaging is so cool (check out their Double Bag label). Long Trail Brewery is open from 10-7pm and is located at the corner of Route 4 & Rt 100A in Bridgewater Corners, VT. Web: http://www.longtrail.com

Otter Creek

Located just outside of Waterbury, VT, I had wanted to visit Otter Creek Brewery since my first sip of Stovepipe Porter one winter long ago. I finally got my chance. Although their brewery is no longer open for tours, they do have a pub with big glass walls that peer into the brewery. They offer a tasting of six four-ounce pours of your choice for $6. Don’t leave without trying the Black IPA and the Wolaver’s Organic Oatmeal Stout.

Otter Creek is located at 793 Exchange St. in Middlebury, VT . Ph: 802 388 0727.  Open daily 11am-6pm. Web: http://www.ottercreekbrewing.com/

Now get out there and go taste beer

This beer tour of Vermont was designed so that a very ambitious taster could do it all in a weekend. The northern route would have to be done on Saturday and the southern route on Sunday. In a perfect world, Saturday night would be spent in Waterbury sipping brews until the early hours at the Alchemist and retiring for the night at a local B&B.

So take a friend along to drive you the course and take off Monday to spend hiking all those empty calories off in the Green Mountains!

See more photos from my Vermont Beer Tour.

Thanks for the great beer, micro-brewers of the Green Mountain State!

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Stephen Bugno beer-toured his way through Colorado and Northern California during the summer of 2010 and through New England in 2011. Porter is his favorite type of beer and he’s extremely grateful to be living in the Golden Age of beer in the United States. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com. Follow him on Facebook.

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

Geographically speaking, Turkey lies on the frontier of Asia and Europe. This location has influenced Turkey on many planes – culturally, historically, politically, economically, socially. The food, too, has seen influences of both worlds. Here are some of the Turkish delights you should try on your next visit (yes, pun intended).

Yaprak Sarma

Yaprak Sarma consist of wrapped vine leaves with a filling of rice, onion and spices like mint, currant, pepper and cinnamon. Usually served as an appetizer and ideal for vegetarians.

Lahmacun

This dish resembles pizza; it is flaky thin dough topped with finely minced meat and onions. Over time, it has become a popular fast food dish in Turkey, and many people roll it (to eat it like tacos).

Kebaps

Kepabs have become popular worldwide. For those who haven’t heard of them yet, kebaps consist of meat, coated around a skewer and grilled over a charcoal fire. The most typical version is made with lamb or beef, but nowadays you can also choose chicken.

Döner

Another popular dish that has been exported to many other countries. Döners consist of beaten pieces of meat, skewered on a spit and grilled vertically. Local herbs and spices are also added.

Köfte

Köfte are also known as meatballs, even though they come in all kinds of shapes. Basically, they are ground meat that is mixed with crumbled bread, minced onions and spices.

Manti

In the Western world, these would be called dumplings. The dish essentially has two parts: the dough and the filling. Usually, the latter includes ground beef or lamb, onion, salt and pepper.

Cacik

Cacik are best served in summer with some ice cubes. This way, the dish, which consists of a mixture of grinded or shredded cucumbers with diluted yogurt, garlic and mint, becomes even more refreshing.

Pilav

There are numerous ways of preparing pilav, but the easiest is probably sade pilav. This consists of plain rice, cooked in water with butter/vegetable oil and noodle-like small pasta pieces. Eggplant, chickpeas, meat or liver slices may also be added, as may spices like cinnamon, pepper, thyme, cumin and even almonds.

Baklava

Baklava is a dessert originating in the Middle East made of phyllo pastry filled with chopped nuts and soaked in honey.

Turkish delights

Turkish delights by Sebastian Piedoux

Turkish delights are jellied candies typically flavored with rose water. If you are in Istanbul, head to the Spice Market to try different variations.

Afiyet Olsun!

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com

By Stephen Bugno

In the past 14 months, I’ve driven across the United States more than 16,000 miles (25,750 km) during two extended road trips. Some of my earliest travel memories are from a Vegas to Albuquerque road trip through the southwestern US as a nine year-old. Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good journey on the road.

Good road-tripping to me means experiencing the places you travel through by interacting with people, absorbing the landscapes, eating the regional foods, traveling greener, not spending excessive money, supporting the local economy, and slowing down to enjoy yourself.

Stay off the Interstate

This is a point I’ve been trying to drive home for the past few years. The interstate—while occasionally scenic, is never interesting. Nothing worthwhile happens on limited-access divided highways except making good time. Even Steinbeck would agree with me. His 1962 Travels with Charley revolved around avoiding the interstate. If you drive the back roads, the scenic byways, the old US highways, your trip will be much more interesting.

Don’t stop at chains

McDonald’s and Arby’s, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut are not interesting to travelers—nor are they healthy. Mom and Pop dining establishments are generally unique, sometimes quirky and occasionally healthy alternatives. You’re more likely to run into locals and have an opportunity to try regional specialties and even eat local or fresher food. And what’s more important about a place than its cuisine?

Another one that’s important to me: no gas station coffee. It’s worth it to get a good cup of coffee at a coffee shop or diner. At least I know I’m supporting a local business while perpetuating my caffeine dependency.

Photo credit: Juno Kim

BYOS—Bring your own stove

You can’t eat every meal out—nor would you want to. Cooking your own food means a lot of things. One, you’ll be eating healthier. Two, it means you have the chance to buy local, fresh food. One of the greatest pleasures of my recent road trip through New England, was stopping at random farmers’ markets. I was buying vegetables in-season and supporting the local economy and small producers. Many times, coops or individuals will have their own fruit and vegetable stands right outside their homes, so you won’t even need to catch the weekly markets. Shopping this way also gives you an inside look at local food politics and movements (like the availability of grass-feed beef, organic produce, and raw-milk cheese).

Indulge in the local specialties

Taste wine in northern California, feast on lobster in Maine, eat Po’ Boys in New Orleans, have a sourdough breadbowl in San Francisco. This is what makes travelling so much fun.  Vermonters take their cheese seriously and Quebecers are proud of their maple syrup—enjoying their specialties makes them happy. Save your money for what’s important—I’ve always said I’d rather sleep uncomfortably and eat well.

Stop in small towns

This one makes sense all-around. While I don’t agree with my friend Gilbert’s idea that “big cities in the United States are not interesting”, I do see his point. The strengths of the United States are its natural and geologic wonders. Also, I would argue, it’s in the small towns and rural areas that the essence of the nation really shines through. Furthermore, whether it’s Kansas or New Hampshire, people in small towns are really friendly. On an economic level, supporting the economies of the little towns is a good thing—and they are less-expensive than cities. Fewer cities in your itinerary means less traffic, less trouble finding parking spots, less overall stress.

Make it longer—Take it slow

Try to minimize your daily driving and take more time to enjoy the places you’re traveling through. Sometime I plan two days to drive to a place I know I could easily make in one driving day. The truth is, I will find something of interest along the way, and in turn will stop to spend a few hours, even if it’s just to linger over a long coffee or take a walk through a town park. I’ve done plenty of intensive sightseeing and trips with filled itineraries, and while I don’t regret those experiences, I’d still prefer to take it slow and not only “see” things, but try to soak in the atmosphere of the places I’ve traveled so far to see.

Drive slower

Making a few minor adjustments can make your road trip as economic and environmentally-friendly as possible. While driving isn’t the greenest option, it’s still better than flying in most cases. First thing you can do to save gas (petrol) is by slowing down. You’ll get better fuel efficiency by not driving like a maniac. Also try to reduce the amount of stuff you bring along; a heavier car wastes more gas. Additionally, make sure your tires are inflated properly and the engine air filter is clean.

Pack a tent

Traveling with a tent allows the obvious: camping and opportunities for backpacking (trekking). Camping saves money over hotels, and wild camping, if you can find it, saves money over campgrounds. A good tip for camping in the United States is to try to find National Forest land, where you can camp for no fee. This works well in the western US where there is a plethora of public lands. Trekking can be a good way to break up a long road trip. On recent road trips, I hiked multi-day treks in the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Sierra Nevada of California.

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Stephen Bugno has been road-tripping since before he could see over the steering wheel. He’ll brake for free camping, a coffee refill, or to wait for moose to cross the road. He’s just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

by luis_psrng

 Oktoberfest has long become an international tourist destination. And while most of the Munich natives certainly speak some English, the festival still retains its traditional Bavarian origins. (To read more about that, check out my article on the history of the Oktoberfest.) When celebrating its 200-year anniversary in 2010, the Oktoberfest in Munich included a special section devoted to showcasing its history. Because this special was such a success, it will be included again this year. To come prepared, why not learn a few Bavarian words and phrases before you arrive? Here are 10 essentials:

 1. Bier (beer)

To many, Oktoberfest is synonymous with beer festival. Ordering beer is easy, and the fact that “bier” in German is pronounced the same as in English makes it even easier. Just be sure you control how much of it you order!

2. Prost (cheers)

In many of the tents, you will hear the notorious song “Ein Prosit, ein Prosit…” Prost means cheers in Bavarian, so before you drink that Mass Bier (1L beer), be sure to say that.

3. Brez’n (pretzel)

Bavarian pretzels in no way compare to the fake version that is sold on the streets of New York, for example. In fact, upon taking some Munich natives to the Big Apple, they were appalled at the pretzel that is sold at food trucks here; “it tastes like plastic, they said.” The true Bavarian version, on the other hand, is soft and made of fresh dough. You can get them in different sizes and they are a great way to assure that all that beer doesn’t get to your stomach so quickly.

4. Hendl (grilled chicken)

Hendl at Oktoberfest are either ordered as a half or a whole. The most typical is to get Hendl with Pommes, which means French fries.

5. Knöd’l (dumplings)

Bavarian dumplings have nothing in common with the Asian version. The German ones can come in different variations. For example, you can get Semmelknödel, which means dumplings made of bread (spices are added, too, but they tend to be very mild). Kartoffelknödel, on the other hand, are made of potatoes. Usually, they will be accompanied by a creamy sauce.

6. Wies’n (Bavarian word for Oktoberfest)

This word refers to the Theresienwiese, which is the festival ground where the Oktoberfest in Munich is held. The name goes back to the fact that in 1810, the Oktoberfest was initiated as part of the royal wedding celebration of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese. Her name still resonates in the tradition of the Oktoberfest today and is also the name of the subway stop where people get off to go to the festival.

7. Ox’n (meat from the ox)

In addition to chicken, there are hundreds of whole oxen being prepared for Oktoberfest. The place to get this kind of meat is at the Ochsenbraterei, literally meaning the place where the oxen are roasted.

8. An Guad’n (Bon Appétit in Bavarian)

So you’ve already learned how to say “Prost,” which applies to cheers for drinking. To cheer on the eating, An Guad’n will help you out.

9. Apfelshorle (apple juice mixed with sparkling water)

Sure, beer is the standard. But for those who don’t want to get drunk (or vary things up a bit), you can order this drink: apple juice mixed with sparkling water. It’s a great refresher after going on all those rollercoasters and bumpy rides.

10. Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick)

Those who want to take a break from meat (or don’t eat it in the first place), can opt for grilled fish on a stick. The best place to get these is at the Fischer Vroni tent.

An Guad’n!!

For more on German foods, read: Top 10 German Foods

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com.

By Noel Lau

“There’s no cheap way to get to Machu Picchu,” said the guide who was trying to sell me a tour. Seeing Machu Picchu had always been a dream of mine but I wasn’t going to join a tour. Getting to Machu Picchu can put a dent your pocket. I was at the end of my South American trip, so I couldn’t afford the expensive Inca trail nor did I want to cheapen my experience there by taking the train.

The ruins close up: Terrace planting field on the left, temple in the center and living quarters on the right.

Arriving in Cuzco, I set out to find information about an alternative route I’d heard from other travelers. I found that it’s quite easy and straight forward; I could do Machu Picchu in two days. So that night, I went back to the hostel to pack a small bag and left my big one at the hostel. Most hostels allow you to do that without extra charge.

The Alternate Route

The next day I left quite early to catch the 7am bus from Cuzco’s Santiago bus station to Santa Maria. There are departures every 15-30 minutes. The bus ride usually takes around 6 hours and cost 15 soles ($5 US). However, since it had rained heavily two days earlier causing some landslides, my journey took eight hours. Besides two German travelers, most of the people on the bus were locals returning to their villages after doing their business in Cuzco. Women and men with gurney sacks and shopping bags squeezed their way into seats, while salesmen came on board and talked for hours selling all kind of medicines and goods.

Local women selling food on wheelbarrows by the side of the road.

At around 12pm the bus stopped at a small roadside village. We got off the bus to be greeted by local women and children selling cheap ($ 1-2 US) and delicious food on wheelbarrows. There were passengers from other buses and lorry drivers too. The whole road was blocked for us to have lunch. It soon became a market place with people standing, sitting and squatting in the middle of the road enjoying their meal.

I arrived in Santa Maria just after 3pm. It’s a tiny crossroad hamlet with a few shops and restaurants. There are combi (shared taxi) waiting to take people to the nearby villages. The one I took cost 8 soles ($3 US) and took 45 minutes to the village of Santa Teresa. As this alternate route becomes popular, drivers will charge foreigners more, so make sure you bargain and check with the locals if they are paying the same. The road to Santa Teresa is unpaved and there are many blind corners. My heart stopped every time the car turned a sharp corner or drove close to the edge to let on-coming cars through; it didn’t help that I was sitting at the window and could see the 200m drop to the ravine below.

When I got to Santa Teresa I took another combi to Hidroeléctrica (the hydroelectric plant and the last train station) for 4 soles ($1.50 US). Since there are not many people going there, it could be a long wait to fill up the combi. I was lucky to be with the two German guys and we found an old man going that way as well so we got to Hidroeléctrica in 30 minutes. If you don’t want to wait, you could walk there in two hours. And if your timing is right, you could hitch a ride with the lorry that takes workers to and from the plant. On my return trip, I hitched a ride this way from the plant to Santa Teresa.

Me at the beginning of the track along train track to Machu Picchu village.

From Hidroeléctrica, you could take the train for 18 soles ($6 US) and in 30 minutes you’ll be in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu village), but there are only 3-4 services a day. Or you could walk along the train tracks for 10km to get to Aguas Calientes.  We decided to walk. We chatted, enjoyed the view and saw some small ruins. When it got dark, I was lamenting for missing out on seeing the scenery but then fireflies came out of nowhere and accompanied us all the way. I felt like I was in a fairy land. That really made my day.

Shoestring Accommodation and Food

We arrived in Aguas Calientes just after 7pm tired and dirty. We went straight to the Tourist Office to get the entrance ticket for Machu Picchu. It costs 126 soles ($45 US) for adult and 63 soles ($22 US) for students with ISIC card. At night Aguas Calientes is like a well-lit amusement park surrounded by dark imposing Andean Mountains. There are hotels and restaurants to suit all budgets, however finding something for shoestring budget proved to be a challenge. Finally we found a room for 12 soles ($4 US) each at Hotel No.1. There’s no street name, so to find it, go up the street where the Tourist Office is and take the 2^nd right turn, you’ll see it at the end of the street on your left just before the river. But the hot water was out so after a freezing shower, we went out looking for food.

Macchu Picchu from a look out point.

Not wanting to pay $10 for a meal, we decided to explore the little village. On the next street just behind the hotel, we crossed a bridge and found ourselves surrounded by locals, there were no tourists at all. We entered a simple but nice restaurant and had a set meal for 8 soles ($3 US); it was delicious and filling, just what we needed after a long day. As not many tourists venture to that part of town and it’s where the locals hang out, things in the supermarket are cheaper. We bought our snacks there for the climb to Machu Picchu the next day. You can’t bring food into the site, but bottled water and snacks are allowed in a small backpack.

Climb to the top

I woke up at 4am and had a small breakfast before setting out. The gate at Puente Ruinas only opens at 5am. From there it’s a steep climb to the top. It took me one huffing-and-puffing-hour. I stopped many times to catch my breath; even chewing coca leaves didn’t help.

Me on top of Wayna Picchu with Machu Picchu below.

Alternatively, you could catch a bus near Puente Ruinas for $7 (one way). The first one departs at 5:30am. There’s usually a queue so make sure you get there early. In high season, I was told that people start queuing at 4:30am.

Your Machu Picchu ticket also allows you to go to Huayna Picchu. But since they only allow 400 people to climb daily, it’s advisable to get there before the many bus loads of people. I was really happy to find out that I was among the first 400. Although it’s another hour of steep climbing from Machu Picchu, the view from up there was spectacular and make Machu Picchu look small and ant-like.

The Return

Machu Picchu far exceeded my expectations. I was so happy and smiled like a fool the whole time I was there. It literally took my breath away. I was there during low season and I was able to find moments and places to be alone to feel the mysteriousness of the place. After spending more than six hours drinking in the amazing sights, it was time for me to leave.

Getting down was much easier. I was back in Aguas Calientes in less than an hour. After a much needed lunch and before starting my return journey, I rested at the main square watching the goings and comings of the people. I saw a local woman combing her daughter’s hair outside her small restaurant as they waited for their first customer; I saw an old European couple, tired and dirty after conquering Machu Picchu, enter an overpriced western restaurant; I saw children in their school uniforms chasing each other without a care in the world; I saw two young Japanese ladies smiling as they looked at photos they had taken. It was hypnotizing. Reluctantly, I started my journey back; the same way I came.

However there is an alternate route: walking along the train track in the other direction, towards Cuzco, for 10 hours to Ollantaytambo. From there, you can take a shared taxi for 10 soles ($3.50 US) back to Cuzco. I was really tired and couldn’t imagine walking another 10 hours.

The going was slow and in Santa Maria, I had to wait four hours for the next bus. I was so exhausted I fell asleep on a bench next to a sleeping old man. I finally reached Cuzco at 2am. Lying in bed overwhelmed by fatigue, a sense of bliss and contentment washed over me. After fulfilling a dream, it was time to dream another.

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Noel Lau has been traveling and working his way around the world for the past decade. Most recently he has been living in Colombia after a year of slowly crossing the South American continent by bus, boat, and plane. He blogs at Wander2nowhere.com