The Sinai Peninsula is the easternmost part of Egypt between the Mediterranean and the Gulfs of Suez and Aqaba, both forks of the Red Sea. Much of the Sinai is desert and uninhabited, but several Bedouin settlements and tourist attractions mark the eastern coast.

The desert landscape of the Sinai is brutally hot. Most tourists come for the attractions underwater—the Red Sea offers some of the best diving in the world. The region is also important because of its religious history.

Sinai Beaches

North of Nuweiba, on the east coast of the peninsula, lies a crescent-shaped strip of cafes and guesthouses called Tarabin. Soft Beach is a nice spot, which has little bungalows close to the sand for $3 per night, calm water for wading into the sea, and a hut where meals are served any time of day. 

Note that Arabs aren’t running the hospitality businesses in Tarabin, but rather the Bedouin. They have relaxed views in general, will serve beer, and have traditionally catered towards young Israelis on holiday. Tarabin is super laid-back and its location is stunning with the dry craggy mountains in the backdrop

As an alternative to Tarabin, check out Dahab or Sharm el Sheikh holidays.  Although it’s been a definite stop on the backpacker trail for years now, Dahab is still tops for outstanding diving, snorkeling, budget accommodation, and basic traveler needs. Sharm el Sheikh attracts more of a high-end crowd as well as a great deal of package tourist.  

St. Catherine’s Monastery and Mt. Sinai

St. Catherine’s Monastery, located at the foot of Mt. Sinai, it is said to be the oldest continuously functioning Christian monastery in the world and has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site.

Despite its remote desert location, the monastery and mountain hike are extremely popular—both for sunrise and sunset. I started hiking at 2am to be at the peak for sunrise. Down below at St. Catherine’s Monastery, I pushed through the narrow monastery doors a few hours later with busloads of Russian package pilgrims and European and American tourists. This is where the Burning Bush is located.

Photo by Stephen Bugno

Soft Beach at Tarabin, Sinai

Soft Beach, Sinai

Soft Beach Restaurant

Soft Beach bungalows at Tarabin, Sinai, Egypt

Sunrise from Mt Sinai

A photographer on top of Mt. Sinai, Egypt

A View of St. Catherine’s Monastery in Sinai, Egypt

The Burning Bush, St. Catherine’s Monastery, Sinai

The old harbor of Girne, Northern Cyprus

By Stephen Bugno

The Karpas Peninsula

Jutting out to the northeast of Cyprus is the wild and wonderful Karpas Peninsula. This is the most remote part of the island where few tourists make the effort to reach. Public transportation is non-existent in these parts, so bring your own wheels or hitch a ride. It’s worth it if you enjoy peace and quiet and the chance to see the wild, indigenous  donkeys, which are the symbol of Cyprus. All the way at the end of the peninsula is Apostolos Andreas Monastery.

Many aim to reach as far as Golden Beach, just shy of the monastery, which may be the best beach on the island. Its white sands and clear waters can be enjoyed in an environment free from development, except for the wooden bungalows where you can spend the night. It’s also known for being a turtle nesting area.

Girne (Kyrenia)

Girne is a picturesque port on the northern coast of the island. Once a Venetian harbor town, Girne is backed by the steep wooded hills of the Beşparmak Mountains. Even though it’s the most popular tourist destination in the north, you shouldn’t be conjuring up images of all inclusive holidays to Ayia Napa. Girne is different.

True, it gets it share of foreign holiday makers, but it still retains its old world charms: cobble streets, an old harbor, and the massive Kyrenia Castle. Located next to the harbor, it is thought to have been built by the Byzantines in the 7th century. Inside is the incredibly preserved wreck of a wooden merchant ship dated to 306 BC, which was found in 1965 off the coast. The cargo of 400 clay jugs filled with olives and almonds was found inside still intact.

The best day trips from Girne are to Bellapais, known for its ancient monastery of picturesque ruins with Gothic arches and stone walls, and to St. Hilarion, the best-preserved castle on the island, which is located halfway between Girne and Lefkoşa.

Gazimağusa (Famagusta)

The old city is surrounded by one of the best preserved Venetian fortifications in the eastern Mediterranean. (Leonardo da Vinci is thought to have been involved in the design.) There are plenty of medieval/renaissance buildings that can be visited in Gazimağusa, unfortunately most of them were severely damaged during the Turkish siege of the city in 1571.

At the top of your list should be the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, which was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest and re-named Lala Mustafa Paşa Mosque, the Land Gate with its drawbridge, the Martinengo Bastion, and a walk around Othello’s Tower.

If you are taking the ferry from Mersin, Gazimağusa is where you will arrive. (Alternatively, seasonal ferry runs a shorter route from Taşucu, Turkey to Girne.)

The best day trips from Gazimağusa are to the many fine beaches along the coast to the north, around Gazimağusa Bay, or to the ancient Greek city of Salamis. Today much of the site lies in ruins, but it is, nevertheless, one of the most impressive monuments to be found on the island. Don’t miss the spectacular gymnasium and theater and what remains of the mosaics.

About Northern Cyprus

The first thing you might notice when researching travel to Cyprus is that almost everyplace has two names: one in Turkish and another in Greek. The recent history of Cyprus has been a complicated one and even bloody at times.

The island is shared by Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots, and even though both sides agreed to a constitution in 1960, they were never practically able to live together. Following a civil war in the mid-1970’s the country divided, but Turkey is alone in recognizing Northern Cyprus as an independent state. Northern Cyprus has only about a quarter of the islands total population living on one-third of the total land area. Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily and Sardinia.

Stephen Bugno visited Northern Cyprus during part of an overland trip from Istanbul to Cairo. He edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and blogs at Bohemian Traveler.

By Stephen Bugno

Spain is known for its fierce regionalism, which makes traveling to each corner of the country a very different and interesting experience. It’s also known for its food culture, rich history, and fine climate. One warning about Spain: Be careful, because you might end up liking it so much that you don’t leave.

Galicia

The Green Countryside of Galicia.

Galicia is a remote and weathered region in the northwest of Spain. I walked through Galicia for a couple weeks en route to Santiago de Compostela, home to the cathedral that signifies an end for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, or Way of Saint James pilgrimage. Galicia is so green that it reminds me of Ireland. Although the relation is not only superficial; ancient Celts actually settled the region. Galicia is a territory with a people proud of their distinct language, culture, and cuisine. It is also one of the most underrated regions of Spain, with some of the best seafood in the world and a lesser-visited coastline.

Basque Country

San Sebastian's beach

On the coast of the Bay of Biscay in northern Spain, bordering France, is Basque Country. Its fierce regionalism has led to violence in the past, but that’s not what this region should be known for. Its language is an anomaly, unrelated to any of those surrounding it, known as a language isolate. San Sebastian, the queen of Basque resorts, is a universally favorite city in Spain. Nearby Bilbao is home to the iconic Guggenheim museum, and some good surfing. In either city, you can’t go wrong with a night out on the town, sampling the exquisite pintxos (Basque tapas).

Catalonia

Catalonia, in the northeast of Spain, borders France as well. Like other regions, it has its own language, Catalan. Visitors flock to self-confident and progressive Barcelona: the art, style, and food capital of Spain. In fact, Anthony Bourdain has called Catalonia the world’s new premier food destination (yes, even better than France). In addition to great beaches on the Costa Brava, Catalonia is home to the Dali Triangle, the architecture of Gaudi, as well as some of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain.

Madrid

Boating in Madrid's Park del Retiro

I lived in Madrid for almost a year and absolutely loved it. The lifestyle of the madrileños sucks outsiders in and keeps them. Hanging out at the traditional cafes and bars around the city, shopping in the crammed Rastro flee market, and a Sunday stroll through the Parque del Retiro should all be part of your visit. If it’s art you like, Madrid is home to three world-class art museums: the Prado, Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza.

Balearic Islands

Four main islands make up the Balearic chain: Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and Formentera. For the last 30 or so years, the reputation of these Islands has led many German, English, and Scandinavians booking repeated flights to Ibiza. Ibiza is the dance-until-dawn and gay-friendly capital of Europe. The best of the best DJs are flown in from all corners of the continent. Most revelers sleep their hangovers off the following day on any of the fine beaches under nearly-always perfect skies. The Balearic Islands may be mass tourism destinations, but if you look carefully, there are unspoiled and picturesque old-world towns on the island. Consider agro-tourism or exploring the countryside by car or scooter.

Andalusia

A village in Andalusia.

Comprising the southern part of Spain, Andalusia is the most quintessentially Spanish region: a land of bullfighting, flamenco, sherry, and ruined castles. Great cities like Seville, with its towering cathedral and Semana Santa festival; and Granada and Cordoba with their unforgettable Moorish architecture and history. After-all, this land was occupied by Muslims for 700 years. From trekking in Sierra Nevada to the beaches of the famed Costa del Sol, it would almost be criminal to visit Spain without stopping here.  

Getting a more in-depth look into Spain

For a closer look at Spain, its people, and cultures, consider Volunteering with Pueblo Ingles or VaughanTown.

If you’re thinking about teaching English in Spain, read Teaching English in Madrid.

By Stephen Bugno

San Blas used to be important. It was a crucial port when trade between Spain and the Philippines was in its heyday. Then Acapulco took over and San Blas became a backwater. But that’s why it’s a fantastic, little, chilled-out beach town today.

The empty stretch of beach at Playa El Borrego, San Blas, Mexico.

Set 90 minutes down a narrow two-lane road bounded by dense vegetation from the nearest city, Tepic, it feels very remote. I planned my visit for Mexico’s bicentennial celebration back in September 2010. I wanted to see the party in a small town and witness the locals and few tourists join in for the festivities. It all happened in the town’s main square: music, dancing, speeches, parades.

I could have stayed in Mexico City or Guadalajara, but I wanted to be in a small town to celebrate Mexico’s 200^th birthday.

Why I chose San Blas

The famous Pan de Platano, banana bead of San Blas, Mexico

I was only in Mexico for a few weeks and only had time to visit one beach. I chose San Blas. It’s description mirrored that of a slow and very laid-back lifestyle.

In fact, my guidebook, The Rough Guide to Mexico summed it up perfectly by saying “for such a small town, San Blas manages to absorb its many visitors without feeling overrun, submissive or resentful”.

I visited in the off-season so it was even more void of tourists (probably only a dozen foreigners in all), but still there was plenty of local life. There are simple little cafes and street carts around town and a low-key but lively and fun bar scene. Internet cafes are plentiful and guesthouses are scattered around town.

The beaches are nice. For the first 200 m or so there are restaurants and a few cabanas along Playa El Borrego, but after that it’s just palm-fringed beach the rest of the way down. It eventually stops after a few km because this beach is like peninsula with a lagoon behind it. On the other side, where the lagoon opens into the ocean, are some other beaches at Los Islitas.

San Blas is also a relatively safe place to hang out. People linger outside at night. Budget travelers camp on the beach at Stoner’s Surf camp, where you can get surfing lessons as well. Safety is a concern to most people traveling to Mexico, so that’s why I tackled that issue in a recent post. Mostly it’s the US media that is blowing the drug wars out of proportion. Mexico is safe for tourists in most areas of the country.

I would consider San Blas as a destination for one of your upcoming Mexico holidays, specifically if you like a laid-back and independent beach scene. No Club Meds or Wyndhams here. And very few hawkers giving you any unnecessary hassles. Just a mellow surf scene and some fellow low-impact independent travelers.

Stoner's Surf Camp in San Blas, Mexico

The locals are really friendly and super easy going. On several occasions I walked past waiting taxi drivers are they didn’t even call out to me. A walk down by the beach you’re likely to witness fishermen doing their thing. Towards the evening I saw about 12 guys hauling in a gigantic fishing net by hand.

Before arriving to San Blas, I heard lots of nasty stories about the biting sand flies that seem to attack humans at certain times of year. This alone is said to be the reason that mass tourism did not develop in San Blas. The no see-ums weren’t around when I visited, but the mosquitoes were nearly unbearable every evening at dusk.

Around San Blas

One afternoon I was feeling energetic and borrowed a bicycle from my guesthouse and together, with a fellow traveler whom I just met, peddled over to Bahia de Matanchen. Most of the six kilometer road led through marshes where we saw plenty of bird life. Eventually when we reached Los Islitas near Mantanchen village beach we leaned our bikes against a palm tree and pulled up a chair at a local beach-side restaurant. I ordered a whole fish grilled with garlic and a huge coconut to drink. After dinner we took a dip in the bathtub-warm water and explored the rest of Los Islitas by bike.

Getting there and costs

San Blas is located on the Pacific Ocean in the Mexican province of Nayarit. It’s a 90 minute, $42 MXN ($3.50 US) bus ride from the city of Tepic and another 2-3 hours and $190 MXN ($16 US) back to Guadalajara.

I got a single room with bath in the off-season for 150 pesos ($12.75 US)per night, which was one of the cheapest options in town.

By Avery Sumner

It’s May 15 and I’m still wearing socks and sweaters in the south of France. I’m living in the Pyrenees-Orientales department of France because it boasts the most days of sunshine in the whole country. I came here for the sun, the sea and the mountains—for the famed Mediterranean climate. But being a Floridian (most recently from the sub-tropics of South Florida) I’m finding this sock weather surprising. Compared to Northern France, yes, the Mediterranean climate is heavenly. But my toes have other points of reference and right now they’re pointing ever more southerly.

The problem is every place that pleases my toes tends to please loads of tourists as well. And my heart prefers quieter places. In Florida I lived in Everglades National Park where barefoot weather meets the wild calm of nature. Is it even possible to find such chakra balancing elements anywhere in Europe?

I’m not sure, but the Canary Islands of Spain keep presenting themselves to me. Tenerife in particular. I recently read that “Tenerife Island is probably one of the last European paradise destinations”. Representing the outermost region of the European Union, the volcanic archipelago of the Canaries rises out of the ocean just off the northwest coast of Africa near Morocco and the Western Sahara. My French mate stopped there on his way sailing across the Atlantic a few years ago and on a particularly dismal day this past winter he proposed spending a month or two on Tenerife next year.

But several British friends have also mentioned the island. Apparently it’s a popular holiday spot for Brits—not exactly the best sign for peace and tranquility.

On the other hand, I have a copy of the French magazine Terre Sauvage I bought last summer. The magazine covers those wild and natural corners of the planet far from beach resorts and night clubs. The Canaries are featured in this particular issue. Actually, it’s the immense night sky of the Canaries featured in the earthy mag. It claims the observatory on La Palma to be the second most important astronomical center in the world, next to Mauna Kea in Hawaii. The pristine darkness of the islands’ night sky utterly void of light pollution makes the region exceptional for stargazing. On Tenerife the observatory of Mount Teide is home to over a dozen telescopes. That kind of absence of city lights sounds pretty celestial to me.

Though Tenerife weather does draw sun-bathing, theme-park going tourists to its southern coastline, it’s also home to a national park and nature reserves with sub-tropical and temperate micro-climates that support an incredibly rich biodiversity of flora and fauna. Even more than tourists it seems, Tenerife has attracted crowds of botanists and researchers for centuries, among them Charles Darwin. A New York Times article reported that in an area on Tenerife called the Cruz del Carmen a new species or sub-species is discovered once every six days. A random handful of soil there can easily contain four or five endemic species of insects, reported the same article.

But the most famous natural attraction on the isle is Mount Teide, or Pico del Teide. The highest peak in Spain, this active volcano is the third largest in the world when measured from its base. It presides over 18,900 hectares of protected land of the Teide National Park (Parque Nacional del Teide), an UNESCO World Heritage site. There are approximately 21 posted trails leading to the peak. A free permit issued by the park is required for the last 200 meters.

Tenerife is also rich with less-traveled paths and lesser-known views beyond Mount Teide. Depending on time constraints and levels of expertise one can traverse diverse ecosystems ranging from dry scrublands to rich green fields. With dramatic lunar landscapes and virgin laurel woodlands Tenerife’s backcountry is nothing short of spectacular. Do a little planning and camping permits can be gotten from the Tenerife Cabildo (Island Council) making opportunities to lose oneself in a mysterious volcanic terrain endless.

Photo by Paul Valk

Okay, I think there’s room enough on Tenerife to find the quiet sanctuary of nature my heart seeks. But I’m still worried about my toes. Yeah, Tenerife’s been dubbed the island of eternal spring, but what exactly does that mean? Whose idea of spring are we talking about here? Hopefully not the same perspective that deems the Mediterranean climate so heavenly.

Tourist information sources show year round average temps on Tenerife ranging from 20ºC/68ºF to 30ºC/86ºF. They also say Tenerife’s weather has the lowest temperature difference between summer and winter than any other place in the world thanks to the trade winds. But on the island itself the variety of weather is broad. On Mount Teide cold winds and snow are winter regularities. However on these same winter days there’s enough warmth for sunbathers to bask on Tenerife beaches, so they claim.

All I really want to know is if, and how long, I’d have to wear socks down there. Official weather charts show January and February as the coldest months with average lows of 15ºC/59ºF. Average highs for those same months are 20ºC/69ºF.

My toes can handle that. When are we going?

Avery Sumner lives in Southern France where the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean. When she travels she looks for the natural and simple.

By Noel Lau

The biggest of Spain’s Balearic Islands, five million visitors descend upon Majorca every summer. This island boasts a temperate climate, year-long sunshine and soft sandy beaches that slope gently into the clear, turquoise Mediterranean Sea.

Situated in the Mediterranean Sea, east of mainland Spain, Majorca is connected by ferries to Barcelona and Valencia, and flights to all major European cities.

Palma de Majorca

Majorca has about 20 towns, villages and resorts, each unique in its charm and character. Palma de Majorca, located on the south west of the island, is the capital and largest city. Its 400,000 inhabitants swell to 2-3 million during the summer months.

You can find almost everything here: from budget hotels to five-star hotels, local eateries to fine dining, banks, shops and all kinds of amenities. Among the high-rise apartment blocks are an imposing gothic cathedral and a gothic castle with a spectacular view.

If you want to get away from the concrete and the crowd, take the wooden train from Palma to Soller. The journey takes about an hour and it goes across Majorca’s plain, mountains and through 13 tunnels. The ride offers sweeping views of the countryside and a chance to appreciate the real beauty of the island.

Soller, in the north west of the island, is a picturesque town set in a valley surrounded by Majorca’s highest mountains looking towards the sea. It is one of the best places for hiking and Mountain biking.

Connected to Soller by a series of pathways is the beautiful village of Fornalutx. Its cobblestone houses, winding streets, narrow stone steps and leafy plazas, has made it the most stunning and enchanting village on the island.

The Beaches

Most people go to Majorca for its beaches. With more than 200 fringing this beautiful Mediterranean island’s coastline, they really should not be missed.  Whatever type of holiday you like, Majorca has a beach for you: family fun, relaxed tanning, even if you want to take off all your clothes!

Resort beaches such as Paguera, Magaluf and Palma Nova, boast fine sand, crystal clear water and good tourist infrastructures. They are popular for family, retirees and young hip Europeans who are looking to party.

Among them, Magaluf seems to be very popular with the young British crowd for their stag night parties. So it’s not hard to find cheap Magaluf holidays offer from British tour operators.

By contrast, the famous Es Trenc Beach in the south-east of the island has been protected from development. It is a 2km long beach with fine white sand and crystal clear water. It is popular among families with kids as well as nudists due to its vastness and remoteness.

Cala Varques, a secluded but stunningly beautiful beach, has absolutely no facilities but offers a relaxing location to enjoy total solitude, peace and quiet. Its wildness is such that you may find yourself sunbathing next to cows. Unless you have a boat, it’s a 15 minute hike, but it’s well worth it!

If you really want to get away from it all, head to Coll Baix, a quiet beach with big waves ideal for sunbathing. The only way to get there is by 4×4 vehicles and there are no facilities here. It’s one of the best beaches to get away from the crowd in summer.

Another attraction on the island is the Serra de Tramuntana, a mountain chain that runs along the northwest coast of the island. You can take a scenic drive along the R710 with some wonderful views of the rough mountain scenery and the coast.

There are many hikes and walks you can do on the Serra de Tramuntana. For example, the eight-stage Dry Stone route (or GR221), passes through the mountains crossing from west to east, comes highly recommended.

Local Cuisine

After all day in the beach or hiking, nothing rewards you better than some local cuisine. Majorcan cuisine is quite similar to mainland Spain, in that it consists of a lot of meat, tomatoes and generous splashes of olive oil. Local specialties are Frit Mallorqui (fried leftovers of vegetables and potatoes) and Sopes Mallorquines (simple vegetable soup with meat and wild mushrooms).

Looking for food should be the least of your worries as all menus in this hot spot for summer vacation are in English and German rather than its two official languages, Spanish and Catalan.

With summer just a few months away, it’s the right time to plan for a summer vacation. Although the majority of the tourists come with one of those Majorca holidays tour packages, this enchanting island has something to offer to everyone, including independent travelers.

We were eating breakfast in the little beach village of Castara on the island of Tobago and this little girl came up to our table to say hi. She was curious and stayed around for while just watching us eat. After breakfast we said goodbye and continued enjoying the rest of our week on the laid back Caribbean island.

Tobago is the smaller island of the two main islands that make up the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. The islands are part of the Lesser Antilles, lying just off the coast of northwestern Venezuela. Castara is a fishing village set in a beautiful bay below jungle-clad hillsides on the west coast of Tobago.

Photos by Sofia Javed and text by Stephen Bugno

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

This week’s Photo of the Week comes from Matt Kyhnn of BackpackingMatt.com

Raglan, New Zealand at Sunset

Raglan is an epic little surf town found about two hours south of Auckland - the characterless city of New Zealand’s North Island. It seems to exist if nothing else for the fantastic surf beaches which are found just outside of town.

Immediately after arriving in the small, beach-side town, you might begin to wonder if Raglan has escaped the 1970s. With its hippy vibe, quaint cafes, epic Saturday market, and tanned, shoeless residents wandering town, you’d be right to decide it hasn’t. Most importantly, Raglan has escaped the tourism cloud that hangs over much of Aotearoa.

Not to miss:

• Raglan Backpackers – This hostel set just on the edge of town is the spot to stay after a long day surfing or exploring Raglan. Its chilled out vibe, close proximity to Raglan’s bars and cafes, and friendly owner Suze will most likely land you in Raglan for longer than you anticipated.
• Manu Bay – Raglan is known the world around for its Manu Bay with the world’s longest left hand break. Manu Bay was featured in the 1966 film, Endless Summer. Unless you’re a keen surfer, spend your time here watching the pros while perhaps enjoying a sunset and a barbecue.

For heaps more backpacking New Zealand advice, be sure to check out Backpackingmatt.com and follow @Backpackingmatt on Twitter.

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

We needed to return our rented moto by 4pm, so we decided to visit Santorini’s white sand beach before leaving the island. However, there were some road signs that just didn’t make sense and we decided to follow any sign that said beach. To our delight, we found ourselves at the red sand beach. We had to park the moto and walk about 10 minutes (over red rocks and stones), but it was well worth it. The blue water and deep red sand was such an unexpected surprise! It was hard to leave the beautiful spot, but we did return the moto and caught our flight away from paradise and back to reality.

Text and photo by Cara Metell

After a vomit-inducing hydrofoil ride from North Cyprus, we docked at Alanya, Turkey—a big city filled with Scandinavian and Russian package tourists. From there we went an hour west to the little town of Side, which was even more densely packed with European package vacationers. From there we moved on to the Lycian coast to the anti-Side resort: Olympos.

We found this ghetto of independent travelers to be as equally annoying as places like Side. However, the great beach in an incredibly beautiful setting made up for the lack of Turkishness, expense, and loud, drunken nineteen year-olds crawling in and out of every treehouse hostel.

Turned off by the whole Olympos scene, we walked 3km north on the beach to the quiet village of Çıralı where we camped alongside Turkish families and enjoyed two days in the sun and sea.

Text and photo by Stephen Bugno

buses in Nicaragua

The border crossing at Peñas Blancas is the typical chaos: money changes with huge wads of cordobas, dollars, and colones, a mother and son beggar team, long lines of tired Nicaraguan laborers, and a nun asking for offerings.  Before and after the 200-meter Noman’s Land one tractor trailer after another is lined up, most with goods, some overfilled with scrap metal. The authorities of both countries, with aid from the U.S. are trying to make this a transportation bottleneck to keep drugs coming up from South America. A young Nicaraguan going home leads us through the confusing Costa Rican out-line and on to the Nicaraguan in-line and finally out through the last gate into the even more chaotic mercado/bus station area.

Immediately swarmed by eager taxi drivers, my instincts keep me walking through to the only bus waiting. Bound for Rivas in fifteen minutes we sit patiently inside to the blaring Nica music. We are sitting on an American school bus. Still painted yellow, it’s been modified with a roof rack, a high exhaust pipe, and interior luggage racks. This is the way nearly all Nicaraguans get around their country; by sitting on the buses that we rode to school twenty years ago.

San Juan del Sur is a lively beach town with plenty of foreigners and Nicaraguans on holiday, lots of beachside bars, and a beautiful crescent-shaped harbor and beach. The sweet surf breaks keep young Australians, Americans, and Canadians here for weeks at a time. Cheap hotels are seven bucks per night and fantastic beaches line the coast north and south of town.

We’ve come here to study Spanish. We were hoping the surf wouldn´t be too much of a distraction. And it hasn´t been. There are at least four schools that offer week-long classes and full room and board packages. We opted for Rosa Silva´s Spanish School and have had no problem showing up at 8am the past five mornings for our four-hour lesson. My teacher Oscar and I have been reviewing basic Spanish grammar and practicing basic conversation as well. Rosa put us up at her friend Margarita´s place. Either Margarita, her daughter, or her son-in-law cook us three meals a day downstairs in their cafe. Full week-long tuition, room and board is $180.

What do we do with the rest of our day? On Saturday I tried surfing for the first time. The Lopez brothers from Arena Caliente Surf Shop drove about 10 of us in their packed van five miles down to Remanso Beach. With surf board piles high on top we bounced our way on the winding dirt road. Their buddy Shaggy, a real Nicaraguan surfer dude, gave me an hour-long surf lesson. On the beach he taught me jump to my feet and then 15 minutes later I was catching waves and standing on my own.

Besides surfing, there are evening trips to La Flor Beach Wildlife Refuge to see sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand, a zip-line canopy tour just outside town, and plenty of beach bars in San Juan del Sur with ice cold Toña and Victoria beers for $1.25. Most nights we watch the sunset from chairs in the sand at The Pier bar while enjoying a cold one.

And there’s always reviewing the days Spanish notes and doing homework to prepare for the next morning’s lesson.

Stephen Bugno,  03 Dec 2009

By Stephen Bugno

Fishing boats in Varkala, India

Although they’re situated on four different continents, these five beach towns are hard to beat for the low-budget independent traveler.

What makes a great beach? I’m thinking small towns or villages, low-budget guesthouses or bungalows on or near the beach, good local food, relaxed vibes, and great sand and water in a striking natural setting.

These are places you could end up staying a week without realizing it. And your conscious will be clean because your dollars are going into the local economy and you can have a good time without excessive hedonism.

Tarabin, Sinai, Egypt

Just north of Nuweiba on the Sinai Peninsula is a strip of cafes and guesthouses called Tarabin. I stayed at Soft Beach because it was recommended to me. This place is hard to beat: little bungalows close to the sand for $3 per night, calm water for wading into the Red Sea, and a hut where meals are served any time of day.  These are not Arabs running the hospitality businesses in Tarabin, but rather the Bedouin. They have relaxed views in general, will serve beer, and traditionally cater mostly towards the influx of young Israelis on holiday. But it’s not crowded. Since the 2004 bombings here, many of the small businesses on this crescent-shaped beach have been squeezed as dry as the craggy, arid mountains that loom behind.

A nearby alternative:  Although it’s chock-a-block full of backpackers, Dahab is still hard to beat for outstanding diving, snorkeling, budget accommodation, eating establishments, and basic traveler needs. Check it out just to compare, as long as you’re in the mood to rub shoulders with your fellow foreign travelers.

Soft Beach in Tarabin, Egypt

Varkala, India

This is a beautiful cliff-top village in Kerala, on the southwest coast of India. Papanasam Beach is actually the place you want, three miles from the Varkala train station. It’s also a Hindu place of pilgrimage as well, so you can witness devotees paying homage to the site where they’ve been coming since the 12th century. The guesthouses, small hotels, and cafes spread thinly along a trail at the top of the precipice overlooking the crashing Indian Ocean. Restaurants display the days catch for passers-by and will cook the fish up anyway you like. The further north you walk, the beach is less congested with tourists and more local fishermen hang out. Their thatched boats sit up on the beach.

A nearby alternative: At Kovalam, an hour and a half to the south, there are a few top-notch beaches; but the area has been criticized recently for being overcrowded and over-developed.

Castara, Tobago

Castara is a chilled-out fishing village with a few guesthouses and cafes. The beach is set under a jungle-clad mountain. The cool thing about Castara is that it’s a real fishing village which would subsist without tourism. The snorkeling is fine, the beach is even finer, and there are no touts to bother you. Once a week, a local bar has a live steel-pan band, dinner, dancing, and all you can drink rum punch.

A nearby alternative: A few miles north is Englishman’s bay, a sweet day-use beach with no permanent facilities. Check out Charlottesville, even further north, for a bigger town, more beaches and guesthouses.

Sagres, Portugal

Sagres is a nondescript small town on the far southwest corner of Portugal. However, it’s got four outstanding beaches practically surrounding the town. I bumped into a few German surfers living out of their Volkswagon van for the week and plenty of other Europeans that moved to the area for the outstanding weather, beautiful cliffs, and economy that makes Portugal the cheapest destination in western Europe. Check out the sheltered, south-facing Praia de Mareta for bathing, Praia do Martinhal for windsurfing, the wild Praia do Tonel for surfing, and Praia de Belixe for a stunning setting under cliffs.

An alternative: About an hour and a half to the east, Tavira is a river-side town, a ten-minute ferry ride away from the Ilha de Tavira—an island with a 14km stretch of dune-backed beaches without a hotel in sight.

Ko Samet, Thailand

Ko Samet is a small, quiet island with beautiful white sand beaches. Not renowned for its parties (as with other Thai beach resorts), it is an extremely relaxed place to chill out for a while. Most of Ko Samet is part of Khao Laem Ya and Mu Ko Samet National Park. One of its advantages is being situated within easy reach of Bangkok. I didn’t have the means to reach the beaches of southern Thailand, but this is a great alternative to those. Spend your days eating pineapple or papaya in the sun and wading into the shallow blue-green water for a dip to cool off.

Stephen Bugno has been traveling and teaching English abroad for the better part of ten years. His articles and essays have appeared in The San Francisco Chronicle, The Philadelphia Inquirer, The Seattle Times, and Transitions Abroad magazine. He edits the Gomad Nomad Travel Mag.

by Stephen Bugno

“When you’ve found heaven on earth, why go anywhere else?” We were standing outside of a small guest house, just steps from the beach, in the village of Castara. It was 10pm and with no reservation we were deciding how many nights to book for. “This is our sixth time here in the last four years,” continued Catherine, a middle-aged English vacationer, promoting this village on the northern coast of Tobago as if she was raised here.

Castara's beach

Respectful of her opinion, I needed to decide for myself if this was the perfect beach. We booked for three nights.

In the morning we saw just what kind of place Castara is—a village where everyone knows each others name and tourists aren’t obnoxious. Castara has no resorts, big hotels, or fancy restaurants. What it does have are small, reasonably-priced guesthouses and locals that rent out extra rooms. It has relaxed cafés on the beach. It’s the kind of place where you can help fishermen haul the seine, or fishing net filled with the day’s catch.

Castara has it all

Relax, play, eat, and practice steel drums. A supremely laid-back place, you can sit on the beach in Castara without getting harassed by touts. The only person to interrupt your sleep in the sun is the man with the portable steel-pan drums who offers a lesson for about $4. My travel companion was playing Amazing Grace within five minutes.

The snorkeling is outstanding. While my newly acquainted South African friend saw rays, I spotted lots of colorful fish, an eel, and stunning brain coral. Don’t have snorkeling equipment? Don’t worry; you can rent some from King David Tours for about $6 per 24-hour period.

For dinner, Margarite’s in the center of the village serves up flavorful Tobagonian fare at honest prices (mains $10-12). Besides the chicken, pork and goat offered, there is always the catch of the day. We had the dolphin-fish with ginger vegetables and the local favorite, macaroni pie. Wash it all down with a ginger beer.

For some, the biggest attraction to Castara is its gorgeous palm-fringed beach. The blue-green waters of the bay and jungle-clad hillside above town make the setting incredible. You can’t go wrong spending a whole day lying on the beach or swimming in the warm water.

A unique feature of Castara’s beach is the Boboshanty. Here Rudi and his wife offer relaxing herbal steam baths and massages (from $40-50) right from their wooden shed on the beach.

A real village

What may surprise you is that Castara is a real village. Its economy is centered on fishing and agriculture and only recently has tourism played a larger role. The tourists seem to be temporary members of Castaran life, rather than hedonistic holidaymakers. Attracting a mix of ages from the UK and the rest of Europe as well as Australia and the U.S., they’ll be lined up next to locals at the fisherman’s co-op to purchase the day’s catch.

Whenever a catch comes in, folks gather around the co-op. It’s located on the edge of the beach where the only road in town dead-ends at the sand. As its real estate suggests, it’s the most significant place in Castara. We looked on as the bare-chested fisherman scaled and cut up the huge kingfish, oblivious to the blood splashing everywhere.

Where are you liming tonight?

This popular local phrase addresses one of the more important aspects of daily life: socializing. To lime is to stand in the street or at a bar simply talking with your friends.

Once a week, a local bar has a live steel-pan band, dinner, and all you can drink rum punch for $25 a head. After the band, some locals informally break out the African drums. And by the time you have finished your Tobagonian shark or Creole shrimp, and many rum punches, everyone is dancing to the current Soca hits. Needless to say, it’s the place to lime on Wednesdays.

It seems unlikely that Castara will develop into a resort area anytime soon and lose its attractive small-town local-life flavor.

We spent the rest of our trip circling the island, enjoying just about everyplace we went. But there is something special about Castara. Its beautiful setting, local hospitality, and decidedly laid-back feel make it the best place to relax for an independent, low-budget week in the Caribbean.

Tobago is one of the most overlooked and best value destinations in the Caribbean. It is cheaper than other Caribbean Islands and is not geared toward package tourism, making it ideal for independent travelers. With a trip to Tobago you are almost guaranteed a travel experience that will have you chatting with dreadlocked fisherman, dancing in the street with a cold beer, and putting your tourist dollars into the local economy.

by Stephen Bugno

Despite the Algarve’s reputation as an over-developed holiday destination for Northern Europeans, there are a few gems—unspoiled, laid-back, small towns with adequate, reasonably-priced accommodation and fantastic beaches.

Tavira

Although technically a river town situated on both sides of the Rio Gilao, Tavira is a ten-minute ferry ride away from the Ilha de Tavira—an island with a 14km stretch of dune-backed beaches without a hotel in sight. The town itself is very attractive with a few sites of its own, and plenty of accommodation and restaurants, bars, and cafes. Located about 20km from the Spanish border, it’s a fine spot to use as a base while exploring the coast of the eastern Algarve: place such as Cacela Velha, Manta Rota, Altura, and Praia Verde.

Sagres

On the far southwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula, Sagres is surrounded by four superb beaches. Although not necessarily an overly charming town, it is pleasant enough and has the necessities to keep the family, surfer, or backpacker content. The sheltered, south-facing Praia de Mareta is great place for bathing, Praia do Martinhal for windsurfing, the wild Praia do Tonel for surfing, and Praia de Belixe for an absolutely stunning setting under cliffs. A couple outfits in town offer surfing lessons as well.

Carrapateira

North from Sagres, along the untamed Atlantic, sits the small town of Carrapateira. Located on the hillside about a kilometer inland, it has adequate budget guesthouses and plenty of private rooms for rent. From here you have access to two fine beaches with incredible surf baked by beautiful sand dunes. In town there’s a surf school which many come here especially to do.

Odeceixe

Four kilometers upstream from a beautiful beach where the Odeceixe River empties into the sea, the town with the same name is built upon the hill. A haven for campervanners, backpackers, surfers, and families alike, the Praia de Odeceixe is a wide, sandy beach with excellent, mild-temperature-water swimming. The gorgeous, cultivated, river-valley setting only complements the calm atmosphere of this community. Zambujeira do Mar Although located in Alentejo, Zambujeira do Mar has much in common with the surf spots of the Algarve. Set atop a cliff, the attractive whitewashed village looks down to a strikingly picturesque beach surrounded on both sides by protected coastline. Zambujeira is a quiet place to relax for days on end, enjoying seafood or drinks at outdoor cafes and restaurants. Every summer it hosts the huge “Festival do Sudoeste” music festival, which attracts big names in the music world and an alternative, laid-back crowd.

Vila Nova de Milfontes

Understandably, Vila Nova de Milfontes is a popular place, though it remains unspoiled. The beaches here are the main draw at this typical Alentejo resort, located about 30km north of Zambujeira. Sandy spots face the open ocean as well as those strung out along the calm, warmer, estuary waters attracting families and independent travelers throughout the summer months. Vila Nova de Milfontes is a great place to sample the outstanding cuisine that Alentejo has to offer, enjoying the small-town atmosphere while al fresco dining.

Stephen Bugno has been traveling and teaching English abroad for the better part of ten years. His articles and essays have appeared in The San Francisco Chronicle, The Philadelphia Inquirer, The Seattle Times, and Transitions Abroad magazine. He edits the Gomad Nomad Travel Mag.