Tag Archive | "budget travel"

near Black Dragon pool Lijiang

Ask GoMad Nomad: Where to go in China

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Dear GoMad Nomad,

I am wondering if you can advise me on good places to visit in China, off the beaten path, where the prices are low, the people are friendly, the women are beautiful, and the scenery is breathtaking.

Sincerely,

Symour in Pasaic

A few of Jade Snow Mountain from Lijiang

 

Dear Symour,

Great timing on this one—I’m in the middle of three-month trip to China. On this trip I’ve stuck to Hong Kong/Macau, Guangxi Province (in the south), and Yunnan and Sichuan Province (in the Southwest) so my knowledge doesn’t go too far beyond that.

As a general rule, China is less expensive in the south and southwest and pricier in the north and east. So I’m going to steer you towards Guangxi, Yunnan and Sichuan.

There are very few foreigners traveling through China, so much of the time you’ll feel like you’re off-the-beaten-path. But watch out for the Chinese tourists—Lijiang, for example is inundated with masses from throughout China. My advice would be to spend as little time there as possible.

The backpacker trail in Yunnan (Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-la) is popular, but for good reason—it is a fantastic place to travel. (But as I said earlier, there are few western tourists). Breathtaking scenery—check! Friendly people—check! And as far as the beauty of the people—I’ll let you decide that for yourself.

These aren’t majority Han Chinese in much of Yunnan—but many of China’s ethnic minorities. This makes travel here more culturally diverse and interesting due to the individual dress, food, and customs of each nationality.

As far as expenses, I just published What it costs: Traveling in Yunnan Province.

After Yunnan Province, I headed up to Sichuan Province mainly for three reasons—tea houses, Giant Pandas, and food. The costs of travel in Sichuan are nearly the same as in Yunnan. There is distinct Sichuanese cuisine, incredible landscapes, and the chance to witness Tibetan culture without the hassle and expense of going to Tibet. The western half of Sichuan is situated high in the Tibetan Plateau and many of the towns there are ethnically Tibetan.

There are plenty of historic towns in Sichuan as well and the most laid-back of China’s huge cities—Chengdu (home of the Pandas).

The following posts might inspire you:

Additionally I’ve tagged my China posts on GoMad Nomad #China and Bohemian Traveler #China

Happy Travels! Let us know when you make it to China!

Sincerely,

Stephen

Yunnan Coffeee in a Dali Cafe

What it Costs: A Day of Travel in Yunnan Province

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It’s impossible to give a report of traveler’s expenses for China as a whole because prices differ extensively from region to region. So for this post, I’m going to focus on Yunnan Province, a destination in which I spent over a month traveling. It is a fascinating region with spectacular landscapes and diverse peoples. It’s popular with travelers, but there are still places to get off the beaten track if desired.

Despite high prices in China’s larger cities, as well as in the provinces of north and east China, Yunnan is still an incredible travel bargain.

I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia and what it costs to travel in Laos.  I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be quite helpful during the planning stages.

A cyclist rides through the old town of Dali.

 

Keep in mind $1 US = 6.3 Chinese Yuan (CYN) (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Yunnan Province:

A day’s expenses in Yunnan:

Breakfast of noodle soup with chicken:  6 CYN   ($ .95 US)

8 km taxi ride to Cangshan trail head:  15 CYN  ($ 2.38 US)

Entrance fee to the Park area:  30 CYN ($ 4.76 US)

(Avoided a 80 CYN ($12.70US) Cable Car fee by hiking)

Lunch: bread, fruit, snacks bought from supermarket: 14 CYN   ($ 2.22 US)

Dinner: twice cooked pork, bok choy, Kung Pao chicken, and rice: (52 CYN for two) 26 CYN ($4.12 US)

Dali Beer  (518ml): 5 CYN ($ .79  US)

Accommodation in Dali: 80 CYN (40 CYN pp if shared) ($ 6.35 US)

 

Total:   136 CYN       ($21.58  US )

 

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$25 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler and can share a room. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $20 or less per day. Consider that costs in Sichuan, Guangxi, and Guizhou are comparable to Yunnan.

Travelers can eat well in China. For breakfast, noodle soup or dumplings are usually about 6 CYN. In an informal restaurant or café, vegetable dishes usually run about 10 CYN and meat dishes nearly double. They are normally shared. With rice and tea, two can eat well for less than 20 CYN apiece. Nicer restaurants or foreigner-aimed cafés might be double that price.

Transportation costs are as follows: For a 15-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 203 CYN ($33.22 US). That’s what it cost us from Jinghong to Xiaguan (Dali new city). City buses are cheap: usually between 1 and 2 CYN and taxis are not too expensive at about 1 to 2 CYN per kilometer. As a general rule, trains are cheaper than sleeper buses (unless you ride soft sleeper class in the train or are travelling on the super-fast trains). An 18-hour train journey from Guilin to Kunming cost us 175 CYN in hard sleeper class. Read why that trip was a forgettable experience in: Night Train to Kunming

Accommodation is a good bargain in Yunnan. It pays to travel with a partner here—sharing the cost of a room. You can normally get a decent double room for less than 100 CYN ($15.87 US). We’ve paid as little as 40 CYN before, but those are not places I would recommend staying. Hostel beds usually run between 25 and 35 CYN ($4—$5.55 US)and are generally only available in the places popular with travelers: Jinghong, Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, and Shangri-la.

To rent bicycles, we paid 10 CYN for the whole day, but saw other shops renting better quality bikes for 35 CYN and up.

A courtyard of a house in Dali.

A warning about Entrance fees

Be forewarned that entrance fees to sights are outrageously high in comparison to the rest of the costs associated with traveling in Yunnan. Read why I had to see the Three Pagodas in Dali from outside the gate. I’ve seen ticket prices for a temple at 60 CYN ($9.50 US) and larger, more important sites costing 100 CYN, 150 CYN, or more! Unfortunately, we had to pass on more than one attraction because of cost.

China is a challenging place to travel as a foreign independent traveler. The extremely difficult spoken language makes it difficult to convey even the simplest ideas. Budget extra money for mistakes, e.g. booking a ticket to the wrong city or the wrong time, not knowing the correct prices. You may find yourself scribbling Chinese characters down on a note pad in order to communicate with people.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are common and reliable throughout China but expect both banks to take a bite out of your transaction. I prefer to take cash (and keep the money secure in my money belt at all times) a pay no exchange fee. I believe Bank of China is the only place to exchange currencies.

Yunnan Coffee in a Dali Cafe–10 CYN

Making the most of your travels through Yunnan

Yunnan is a fascinating and inspiring place to travel. Costs are only going to go up and Chinese tourists are going to come in higher number in the future. New roads are being built, railways expanded, and cities enlarged.

My advice would be to get here soon. Although China is modernizing rapidly, the ethnic minorities of Yunnan seem to be holding on to their distinct customs and traditional way of life.

Have you traveled through Yunnan recently? How much did you spend per day?

sunset walk wwoof italy

What to Know Before You WWOOF

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By Gabi Logan

For travelers with itchy feet and empty pockets, WWOOFing sounds like the perfect opportunity. You can stay for free (with food included) amid such picturesque rural locations as olive orchards in Italy on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, rolling hills covered with lavender in the south of France, and blossoming cherry orchards in Japan.

“Sign me up!” you may be thinking, and while there are few drawbacks–you’ll even get a great tan–WWOOFing is not something you should rush into.

WWOOFing essentially means having your home, job, and social life all confined to one, often isolated, place and a handful of people. Wouldn’t you thoroughly check out the situation before accepting a job or signing a lease on an apartment?

Ask these key questions before confirming your WWOOFing stay to make sure that you–and your host–are happy with the arrangement.

What do you want to get out of the experience?

This is the only question to ask yourself and not your host, but it’s a biggie. Do you want to learn a skill like how to make cheese or garden organically or prepare artisanal marmalade? Or are you just looking for a new kind of work exchange experience or free room and board for a few months? 

The WWOOF organization is very staunch about the fact that WWOOFing is a knowledge and cultural exchange, not just a work for lodging quid pro quo. The President of the Italian WWOOF association, Claudio Pozzi, relayed to me that “if there is not sharing and exchange, the relationship becomes one of subordination, and that is the domain of other organizations. I want to reiterate that [for us] work is not a form of payment for hospitality.”

If you are not keen on learning something from your experience, whether it is specifically about organic farming or more generally about your host’s language, culture, or lifestyle, WWOOFing is probably not the best match for you. Look into a more general work exchange network like HelpX (http://www.helpx.net/).

In the spring on smaller farms, you’ll spend a lot of time in the nursery, watering baby plants several times a day.

 

What type of work goes on when you’ll be visiting?

Some WWOOF hosts are technically on top of things, providing a Google calendar outlining what type of work goes on each week or spelling out a rough overview of the main focus of each season in their WWOOF listing. Even in these cases, and especially when this information is not available, it’s worth discussing the planned projects with your host before confirming your stay. Otherwise you may find yourself sterilizing barrels and presses at a winery for a month instead of actually learning how to make wine, or bundling hay for three weeks instead of learning to make goat cheese as happened to a fellow WWOOFer.

In the off-season, you’ll work on maintenance projects around the property, such as pouring concrete for this wood shed and then chopping the wood to fill it.

 

When will you work?

Life in the countryside begins early. Whether there are animals that need to be fed, vegetables that need to be picked and packed for the market, or difficult labors to be finished before the midday heat sets in, you’ll probably be expected to start at 8 a.m. at the latest. Check on the typical morning hours with your host so you don’t find yourself in a place where work starts at 6 a.m. when you’ve never managed to get up before 8 or 9 in your entire life. Likewise, check which days your host expects you to work. A five day work week is not the norm on a farm, though religious households typically take a day off as a matter of course. Be clear up front if you expect to travel on the weekends.

How long will you be expected to work?

Before I embarked on my first WWOOFing experience, I was bewitched by a story in the Guardian in which the writer and her friend worked in the garden each morning, enjoyed a filling lunch made from local ingredients with their hosts, and set out each afternoon to explore the Tuscan countryside–even taking advantage of local thermal hot springs to nurse their sore muscles. Imagine my surprise when my host assumed I would work 8-10 hour days six or seven days a week! Setting (preferably in writing) an expected number of work hours before you arrive gives you something concrete to point to if you feel like you are being taken advantage of.

Will you be staying with other people?

For some travelers, meeting other adventurers is a big part of the experience. But if you’re not totally comfortable sharing close quarters with total strangers–a young female having to share a small room with a 40-year-old guy for two months for instance (true story)–ask your host about the situation in advance. They’ll probably already know who will be around during that time and may have a private or semi-private option if you ask far enough in advance. Watch how you ask though; I saw a WWOOF host laugh hysterically at the presumption of a couple who asked if they could stay in a private room.

Where will you stay?

As we covered in GoMad Nomad’s WWOOFing 101 guide, accommodations can vary from a private, self-service apartment with internet, full kitchen, tv and sitting areas to a tent or sparse caravan. Before you leave you’ll want to know whether you can expect to stay inside or not, and whether your electronics will be secure (or even rechargeable) during your stay.

Can you get into town (or to other towns) on your own?

If you are just looking for a rural experience, an isolated host is no problem. But being stuck in an inaccessible part of Tuscany with no way to explore Florence, Chianti, or the surrounding towns could put a big damper on your plans to use WWOOFing as a base to see the region. Ask your host about local transportation or other options for WWOOFers; some hosts have bikes available for their volunteers or will be happy to drive you to the nearest train station or show you around themselves.

A walk along the bay at sunset would be the perfect afternoon recovery from your WWOOF work, if you didn’t have to hike back to the hills in the background to get home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The difference between a sob story WWOOFing experience and the time of your life can either come down to chance or preparation–it’s up to you if you want to take your chances with Lady Luck. 

It can be really difficult to get in touch with hosts, but asking you host these key questions before you confirm your stay ensures that you take control of your WWOOFing time and end up with the best situation for you.

 

Gabi Logan is a freelance blogger and travel writer. While renovating a Ligurian farmhouse on a recent WWOOFing trip, she finally found a way to put her Italian literature degree to use: bonding over Dante with her hosts.

dog and monks in Luang Prabang

What it Costs: A Day of Travel in Laos

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By Stephen Bugno

Despite inflation and inflated expenses for travelers, Laos is still an inexpensive place to travel. I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia. I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be extremely helpful during the planning stages.

Keep in mind $1 US = 8,000 kip (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Laos:

A day’s expenses in Laos:

Breakfast buffet in Muang Ngoi (including coffee): 20,000 kip   ($2.50 US)

One hour slow boat ride to Nong Khiaw:  25,000 kip  ($ 3.13 US)

Papaya Shake at café with free WiFi: 10,000 kip ($1.25 US)

Lunch: curry and sticky rice: 20,000 kip   ($2.50 UD)

Rent mountain bike for the afternoon: 30,000 ($3.75 US)

1.5 liter water: 5,000 kip ($.63 US)

Dinner: Mok Sin (steamed fish in Banana leaf) and sticky rice: 20,000 ($2.50 US)

Beer Lao (640ml): 10,000kip ($1.25 US)

Traditional Lao Herbal Sauna: 15,000 kip ($1.88 US)

Accommodation in Nong Khiaw: 40,000 kip (20,000 pp if shared) ($5.00 US)

 Total:   190,000 kip       ($ 23.75 US )

 

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$20 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $15 or less per day. Consider that Luang Prabang and Vientiane are more expensive than the rest of the country.

Transportation costs have risen since I last visited. For an eight-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 90,000 kip ($11.25 US). Expect most tuck-tuck and songthaew drivers to overcharge, so bargain hard.

For slow boat costs check out my Guide to Slow Boats in Laos.

Accommodation can vary. I’ve paid as little as 30,000 kip ($3.75 US) for a room. Budgeting between 50,000-80,000 ($6.25-$10.00 US), however, is more realistic. Keep in mind this will only get you a basic room with an attached bathroom. In Laos, it pays to travel in a pair, because the room is the same price for one or two people.

To rent bicycles for the day, it usually cost between 10,000 and 30,000 kip.

An hour-long Lao massage usually goes for 40,000-60,000 kip ($5-$7.50 US).

Depending on the way you view Laos, it can be a traveler’s nirvana or could be the source or frustration.

Although Laos is a friendly and tranquil place to travel, it is in many ways a little traveler’s paradise in the sense that the whole backpacker infrastructure has been set up. It is here you’re likely to spend most of your time. There are small guesthouses and bungalows that cater exclusively to foreign travelers, either because Laotians don’t wish to travel or don’t have the money.

This also means many of your bus trips will be more than half-filled with foreign travelers and your slow boat trip may not include any locals at all. So if you’re fantasizing about an all-Laotian boat ride down a remote river, think more realistically.

Laos is an easy country to travel within because those involved in tourism have enough of a grasp of English to make travelers feel comfortable and menus are usually printed in English. Laotians don’t often eat out, so if you desire something above basic noodles, you’ll have to go to a tourist-oriented eating establishment.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are becoming more commonplace in Laos. Throughout SE Asia, it’s always a good idea to carry US dollars on your person for visas and for emergencies. Occasionally the ATMs don’t have money, they are temporarily out of order, or the power is out. Most towns in Laos have an ATM but don’t count on them everywhere, so make sure you have enough kip before traveling into the countryside.

Making the most of your travels through Laos

If you don’t make an effort to leave the comfort of the Banana Pancake Trail, your trip is liable to be relaxing and chilled-out, but it won’t involve very much interaction with locals beyond superficial contact.

Last year after traveling almost a month in Laos, I wrote Why I don’t like Laos. And while I would add that I don’t dislike Laos, these are just a few of the things I mentioned which frustrate me while traveling there.  I’d never dispute the friendliness of Laotians or the placidity of their society. Add I’ll probably end up traveling there again.

Have you traveled through Laos recently? How much did you spend per day?

 

WWOOFer Rimini Italy starts her day tending the pigs

WWOOFING 101: Your Guide to Working on Organic Farms

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A WWOOFer in Rimini, Italy starts her day tending the pigs.

By Gabi Logan

For independent travelers, WWOOFing is an ideal way to travel slowly and inexpensively and learn something along the way.

But what is WWOOFing? How do you do it? Why on earth does the word have two ‘w’s?

What is WWOOFing?

Officially, WWOOF stands for “World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms,” but among travelers and hosts, the older name “Willing Workers on Organic Farms” persists, emphasizing the very human component of the organization. Volunteers work for free (sort of) for organic farms all around in the world, from Turkey to Taiwan to Tonga.

In its early years in the U.K., the organization was known as “Working Weekends on Organic Farms” and focused more on giving city dwellers an opportunity to get out into the countryside and support the organic movement. Short stays taught visitors about the movement, but weren’t the ideal situation for farmers, who were investing a lot of time teaching volunteers who were only around for one weekend.

Reflecting this need, the organization shifted away from directly organizing trips for volunteers and toward individual long-term farm stays, acting more as a resource facilitating the connections between volunteers and farms. The organization briefly adopted the name “Willing Workers on Organic Farms,” but governments took issues with people “working” on farms without work visas, and the name changed to its current form.

Today, volunteers organize their own farm stays, contributing their work to organic farms in exchange for meals, a place to stay, and training from in ecologically-sound agriculture.

Another WWOOFer in Rimini cans sun-dried tomatoes.

WWOOFing Terminology

If you visit any national WWOOF organization, you’ll find that very specific terminology has evolved to describe these unique arrangements.

“WWOOF” is the name of the international organization overseeing all national WWOOF chapters, but is used primarily as a verb, describing the act of organizing and going on a farm stay or the work itself. For instance, in Italian, you can say you “fare lo WWOOFing” (do WWOOFing).

The farms, vineyards and orchards where volunteers stay are called hosts, similar to an immersive language-learning homestay. The volunteers themselves are known as “WWOOFers,” which may sound a bit like an onomatopoeic name for canines, but actually sounds much more charming in non-English accents.

Who Should WWOOF?

The main requirement for WWOOFers is an interest in organic farming practices. The organization emphasizes that this is not just a way to arrange a cheap vacation. Beyond that, you need to be okay with roughing it and physically able to complete manual labor tasks.

Some hosts provide nicer accommodations than others, in a guest house, private apartment, or hotel room if they run a hotel on site. But these opportunities are more the exception than the rule, and many hosts offer simple campers or tent sites for WWOOFers. If you have a real need for multiple hot showers a day and modern, indoor accommodations, you’ll need to really screen the hosts.

Likewise, the work WWOOFers perform is not equally demanding in all WWOOFing locations. With some hosts, you can work primarily in the kitchen canning jams or making herbal tinctures, but other larger farms may have odd jobs like building a shed or a stone fence that WWOOFers need to help out with. If you have any serious physical limitations, let your prospective host know in advance so they can decide if you’re compatible with the work at their farm.

WWOOFers in Italy harvest olives for olive oil using traditional methods.

What do WWOOFers do?

If you envision riding around on tractors and milking cows when you hear “farm stay,” you’ve only imagined a small part of the possibilities of WWOOFing. In some areas, hosts fit into this pastoral farm mold, but more often than not, hosts are small, independent operations specializing in a one product or type of agricultural output.

You can learn to make goat cheese in the Alps, blend pinot noir in Australia, run an agrotourism school in the south of France, harvest olives and make olive oil in Portugal, build irrigation systems in Ghana, heard cattle in Argentina, or grow papayas in Hawaii.

The basic premise remains the same no matter where you go or what kind of agricultural operation you visit: WWOOFers work roughly five to six hours a day five days a week for their hosts. Early mornings are typically the norm, so you may work from 7 am or 8 am till lunch at 1 pm or 2 pm or put in a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening in hot climates with stifling midday heat.

WWOOFers chop recently cleared trees for firewood.

Where Can You Go?

WWOOFing is an ideal vehicle to explore both developed countries and developing destinations that are difficult to visit independently, including many countries in eastern Europe, the Caucuses, and Africa.

More than fifty countries have their own national WWOOF organizations, and another 50+ are on the independent list, meaning there is no national administrative body, and you can WWOOF there with a membership from any other country. For a full list of the countries that currently host WWOOFers, check out the national organization list (http://wwoof.org/natorgs.asp) or the independents lists (http://www.woof.org/independents.asp).

How Do You Sign Up?

First things first: pick the country you’d like to WWOOF in.

One of the main downsides for travelers looking to WWOOF is that you have to sign up for each national WWOOFing organization separately. So if you are trying to assemble a year of WWOOFing around Europe, you’ll have to sign up separately for membership in the British, Swiss, French, Spanish, Greek, and Italian organizations.

After providing your biographical information through the national organization’s online form, you send in a membership fee, typically around $30-$40. Many countries accept payment by Paypal these days, but for some countries, you’ll have to factor a few weeks for your check to arrive into your travel plans.

Once these materials have been received by the national WWOOF administration, they’ll send you a host list and a membership card. You can’t begin a WWOOFing trip without your membership card, and many hosts will ask to see a copy of it by email before accepting your request to stay with them.

***

Many national WWOOFing organizations have a list of opportunities you can browse for free before signing up for membership. Take a look through some listings in Brazil (http://www.wwoofbrazil.com/pre_host_farm.htm), Kazakhstan (http://www.wwoofkazakhstan.org/hosts/), and Italy (http://www.wwoof.it/gb/list.html) to get inspired.

 

Gabi Logan is a freelance blogger and travel writer. While renovating a Ligurian farmhouse on a recent WWOOFing trip, she finally found a way to put her Italian literature degree to use: bonding over Dante with her hosts.

new york state road

8 Ways to Improve your Next Road Trip

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By Stephen Bugno

In the past 14 months, I’ve driven across the United States more than 16,000 miles (25,750 km) during two extended road trips. Some of my earliest travel memories are from a Vegas to Albuquerque road trip through the southwestern US as a nine year-old. Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good journey on the road.

Good road-tripping to me means experiencing the places you travel through by interacting with people, absorbing the landscapes, eating the regional foods, traveling greener, not spending excessive money, supporting the local economy, and slowing down to enjoy yourself.

Stay off the Interstate

This is a point I’ve been trying to drive home for the past few years. The interstate—while occasionally scenic, is never interesting. Nothing worthwhile happens on limited-access divided highways except making good time. Even Steinbeck would agree with me. His 1962 Travels with Charley revolved around avoiding the interstate. If you drive the back roads, the scenic byways, the old US highways, your trip will be much more interesting.

Don’t stop at chains

McDonald’s and Arby’s, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut are not interesting to travelers—nor are they healthy. Mom and Pop dining establishments are generally unique, sometimes quirky and occasionally healthy alternatives. You’re more likely to run into locals and have an opportunity to try regional specialties and even eat local or fresher food. And what’s more important about a place than its cuisine?

Another one that’s important to me: no gas station coffee. It’s worth it to get a good cup of coffee at a coffee shop or diner. At least I know I’m supporting a local business while perpetuating my caffeine dependency.

Photo credit: Juno Kim

BYOS—Bring your own stove

You can’t eat every meal out—nor would you want to. Cooking your own food means a lot of things. One, you’ll be eating healthier. Two, it means you have the chance to buy local, fresh food. One of the greatest pleasures of my recent road trip through New England, was stopping at random farmers’ markets. I was buying vegetables in-season and supporting the local economy and small producers. Many times, coops or individuals will have their own fruit and vegetable stands right outside their homes, so you won’t even need to catch the weekly markets. Shopping this way also gives you an inside look at local food politics and movements (like the availability of grass-feed beef, organic produce, and raw-milk cheese).

Indulge in the local specialties

Taste wine in northern California, feast on lobster in Maine, eat Po’ Boys in New Orleans, have a sourdough breadbowl in San Francisco. This is what makes travelling so much fun.  Vermonters take their cheese seriously and Quebecers are proud of their maple syrup—enjoying their specialties makes them happy. Save your money for what’s important—I’ve always said I’d rather sleep uncomfortably and eat well.

Stop in small towns

This one makes sense all-around. While I don’t agree with my friend Gilbert’s idea that “big cities in the United States are not interesting”, I do see his point. The strengths of the United States are its natural and geologic wonders. Also, I would argue, it’s in the small towns and rural areas that the essence of the nation really shines through. Furthermore, whether it’s Kansas or New Hampshire, people in small towns are really friendly. On an economic level, supporting the economies of the little towns is a good thing—and they are less-expensive than cities. Fewer cities in your itinerary means less traffic, less trouble finding parking spots, less overall stress.

Make it longer—Take it slow

Try to minimize your daily driving and take more time to enjoy the places you’re traveling through. Sometime I plan two days to drive to a place I know I could easily make in one driving day. The truth is, I will find something of interest along the way, and in turn will stop to spend a few hours, even if it’s just to linger over a long coffee or take a walk through a town park. I’ve done plenty of intensive sightseeing and trips with filled itineraries, and while I don’t regret those experiences, I’d still prefer to take it slow and not only “see” things, but try to soak in the atmosphere of the places I’ve traveled so far to see.

Drive slower

Making a few minor adjustments can make your road trip as economic and environmentally-friendly as possible. While driving isn’t the greenest option, it’s still better than flying in most cases. First thing you can do to save gas (petrol) is by slowing down. You’ll get better fuel efficiency by not driving like a maniac. Also try to reduce the amount of stuff you bring along; a heavier car wastes more gas. Additionally, make sure your tires are inflated properly and the engine air filter is clean.

Pack a tent

Traveling with a tent allows the obvious: camping and opportunities for backpacking (trekking). Camping saves money over hotels, and wild camping, if you can find it, saves money over campgrounds. A good tip for camping in the United States is to try to find National Forest land, where you can camp for no fee. This works well in the western US where there is a plethora of public lands. Trekking can be a good way to break up a long road trip. On recent road trips, I hiked multi-day treks in the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Sierra Nevada of California.

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Stephen Bugno has been road-tripping since before he could see over the steering wheel. He’ll brake for free camping, a coffee refill, or to wait for moose to cross the road. He’s just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

little india penang malaysia georgetown

Ask GoMad Nomad: India vs. Malaysia

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Dear GoMad Nomad,

My wife and I have been retired for a few years and have done a bit of traveling in Europe and South America. Our sights have now turned towards Asia and thinking about places where healthy retirees could go far on savings.  My wife has always been interested in India, but from what I’ve heard, that just sounds like a difficult place to travel.

little india penang malaysia georgetown

Serving up snacks at a street stall in Little India in Penang, Malaysia

I’ve read your article on Malaysia and have been advocating this destination as an alternative. We’re now at a bit of an impasse, and I’d like to hear your ideas about the pros and cons of both countries.

-Baxter from Oak Ridge, TN

 

Dear Baxter,

Malaysia and India are both very worthy travel destinations that meet your lower-budget requirements, but they are very different beasts.

You’re right, India can be a difficult place to travel: physically taxing for travelers of any age. But it can also afford plenty of luxuries, it all depends on your travel style and budget. But more noteworthy, India can be mentally exhausting. India rearranges everything you thought was normal in our world. You will witness the extremes of humanity. It requires a very open mind and non-judgmental attitude.

There really is no place like India. Its diversity of peoples, languages, cultures is unparalleled. It is intensely spiritual: the birthplace of four of the world’s great religions.

If you are mentally and physically prepared and open to the challenges that India presents, it can be a very worthwhile and rewarding destination to travel.

After a recent to Malaysia, I left the country pleasantly surprised. I liked Malaysia because of its fusion of Asian cultures: Malay, Chinese, and Indian, as well as the distinct and very delicious cuisines that come from each of those cultures.

Malaysia is a rapidly modernizing country, and transportation is quite comfortable and easy to get around with air-conditioned coaches zipping from city to city.

Similar to India, Malaysians speak English well enough to facilitate everyday necessities and allow for conversations with locals to make your trip more meaningful.

Prices do vary, from region to region, but overall Malaysia is very affordable and what I call a good-value destination, meaning it’s not super cheap, but you get good quality service and products for inexpensive prices. Read my post on Malaysia: What it Costs.

Plus, there are some great things to see in Malaysia: world-class beaches, jungle trekking, wildlife viewing, diving/snorkeling, hill-stations, and the rich history and architecture of colonial settlements.

I really don’t have any negatives to tell you about Malaysia, except that the rapid modernization might leave you feeling that it’s not as exotic as you expected.

Hope this helps in your decision making process.

-Stephen

Have any retirees traveled to either India or Malaysia?  Leave your comments below…

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Machu Picchu: Independently on the Cheap

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By Noel Lau

“There’s no cheap way to get to Machu Picchu,” said the guide who was trying to sell me a tour. Seeing Machu Picchu had always been a dream of mine but I wasn’t going to join a tour. Getting to Machu Picchu can put a dent your pocket. I was at the end of my South American trip, so I couldn’t afford the expensive Inca trail nor did I want to cheapen my experience there by taking the train.

The ruins close up: Terrace planting field on the left, temple in the center and living quarters on the right.

Arriving in Cuzco, I set out to find information about an alternative route I’d heard from other travelers. I found that it’s quite easy and straight forward; I could do Machu Picchu in two days. So that night, I went back to the hostel to pack a small bag and left my big one at the hostel. Most hostels allow you to do that without extra charge.

The Alternate Route

The next day I left quite early to catch the 7am bus from Cuzco’s Santiago bus station to Santa Maria. There are departures every 15-30 minutes. The bus ride usually takes around 6 hours and cost 15 soles ($5 US). However, since it had rained heavily two days earlier causing some landslides, my journey took eight hours. Besides two German travelers, most of the people on the bus were locals returning to their villages after doing their business in Cuzco. Women and men with gurney sacks and shopping bags squeezed their way into seats, while salesmen came on board and talked for hours selling all kind of medicines and goods.

Local women selling food on wheelbarrows by the side of the road.

At around 12pm the bus stopped at a small roadside village. We got off the bus to be greeted by local women and children selling cheap ($ 1-2 US) and delicious food on wheelbarrows. There were passengers from other buses and lorry drivers too. The whole road was blocked for us to have lunch. It soon became a market place with people standing, sitting and squatting in the middle of the road enjoying their meal.

I arrived in Santa Maria just after 3pm. It’s a tiny crossroad hamlet with a few shops and restaurants. There are combi (shared taxi) waiting to take people to the nearby villages. The one I took cost 8 soles ($3 US) and took 45 minutes to the village of Santa Teresa. As this alternate route becomes popular, drivers will charge foreigners more, so make sure you bargain and check with the locals if they are paying the same. The road to Santa Teresa is unpaved and there are many blind corners. My heart stopped every time the car turned a sharp corner or drove close to the edge to let on-coming cars through; it didn’t help that I was sitting at the window and could see the 200m drop to the ravine below.

When I got to Santa Teresa I took another combi to Hidroeléctrica (the hydroelectric plant and the last train station) for 4 soles ($1.50 US). Since there are not many people going there, it could be a long wait to fill up the combi. I was lucky to be with the two German guys and we found an old man going that way as well so we got to Hidroeléctrica in 30 minutes. If you don’t want to wait, you could walk there in two hours. And if your timing is right, you could hitch a ride with the lorry that takes workers to and from the plant. On my return trip, I hitched a ride this way from the plant to Santa Teresa.

Me at the beginning of the track along train track to Machu Picchu village.

From Hidroeléctrica, you could take the train for 18 soles ($6 US) and in 30 minutes you’ll be in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu village), but there are only 3-4 services a day. Or you could walk along the train tracks for 10km to get to Aguas Calientes.  We decided to walk. We chatted, enjoyed the view and saw some small ruins. When it got dark, I was lamenting for missing out on seeing the scenery but then fireflies came out of nowhere and accompanied us all the way. I felt like I was in a fairy land. That really made my day.

Shoestring Accommodation and Food

We arrived in Aguas Calientes just after 7pm tired and dirty. We went straight to the Tourist Office to get the entrance ticket for Machu Picchu. It costs 126 soles ($45 US) for adult and 63 soles ($22 US) for students with ISIC card. At night Aguas Calientes is like a well-lit amusement park surrounded by dark imposing Andean Mountains. There are hotels and restaurants to suit all budgets, however finding something for shoestring budget proved to be a challenge. Finally we found a room for 12 soles ($4 US) each at Hotel No.1. There’s no street name, so to find it, go up the street where the Tourist Office is and take the 2nd right turn, you’ll see it at the end of the street on your left just before the river. But the hot water was out so after a freezing shower, we went out looking for food.

Macchu Picchu from a look out point.

Not wanting to pay $10 for a meal, we decided to explore the little village. On the next street just behind the hotel, we crossed a bridge and found ourselves surrounded by locals, there were no tourists at all. We entered a simple but nice restaurant and had a set meal for 8 soles ($3 US); it was delicious and filling, just what we needed after a long day. As not many tourists venture to that part of town and it’s where the locals hang out, things in the supermarket are cheaper. We bought our snacks there for the climb to Machu Picchu the next day. You can’t bring food into the site, but bottled water and snacks are allowed in a small backpack.

Climb to the top

I woke up at 4am and had a small breakfast before setting out. The gate at Puente Ruinas only opens at 5am. From there it’s a steep climb to the top. It took me one huffing-and-puffing-hour. I stopped many times to catch my breath; even chewing coca leaves didn’t help.

Me on top of Wayna Picchu with Machu Picchu below.

Alternatively, you could catch a bus near Puente Ruinas for $7 (one way). The first one departs at 5:30am. There’s usually a queue so make sure you get there early. In high season, I was told that people start queuing at 4:30am.

Your Machu Picchu ticket also allows you to go to Huayna Picchu. But since they only allow 400 people to climb daily, it’s advisable to get there before the many bus loads of people. I was really happy to find out that I was among the first 400. Although it’s another hour of steep climbing from Machu Picchu, the view from up there was spectacular and make Machu Picchu look small and ant-like.

The Return

Machu Picchu far exceeded my expectations. I was so happy and smiled like a fool the whole time I was there. It literally took my breath away. I was there during low season and I was able to find moments and places to be alone to feel the mysteriousness of the place. After spending more than six hours drinking in the amazing sights, it was time for me to leave.

Getting down was much easier. I was back in Aguas Calientes in less than an hour. After a much needed lunch and before starting my return journey, I rested at the main square watching the goings and comings of the people. I saw a local woman combing her daughter’s hair outside her small restaurant as they waited for their first customer; I saw an old European couple, tired and dirty after conquering Machu Picchu, enter an overpriced western restaurant; I saw children in their school uniforms chasing each other without a care in the world; I saw two young Japanese ladies smiling as they looked at photos they had taken. It was hypnotizing. Reluctantly, I started my journey back; the same way I came.

However there is an alternate route: walking along the train track in the other direction, towards Cuzco, for 10 hours to Ollantaytambo. From there, you can take a shared taxi for 10 soles ($3.50 US) back to Cuzco. I was really tired and couldn’t imagine walking another 10 hours.

The going was slow and in Santa Maria, I had to wait four hours for the next bus. I was so exhausted I fell asleep on a bench next to a sleeping old man. I finally reached Cuzco at 2am. Lying in bed overwhelmed by fatigue, a sense of bliss and contentment washed over me. After fulfilling a dream, it was time to dream another.

 

This post was brought to you by Travel Insurance Cover, an Australian company offering policies that provide protection against the unexpected when traveling. Benefit from coverage for medical and hospital expenses, cancellation fees and lost or stolen luggage (as detailed in the policy wording), as well as worldwide emergency assistance. Arrange a quote for travel insurance online.

 

Noel Lau has been traveling and working his way around the world for the past decade. Most recently he has been living in Colombia after a year of slowly crossing the South American continent by bus, boat, and plane. He blogs at Wander2nowhere.com

miri laksa

What it Costs: A Day in Malaysia

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By Stephen Bugno

I want to give independent travelers an idea of costs for traveling in Malaysia because it can be really helpful when planning your budget. I hear a lot of travelers complain that Malaysia is more expensive than Thailand. That may be true in some cases, but I noticed that very touristic places in Thailand, such as beach resorts like Ko Phi Phi, can be more expensive than the average place in Malaysia.

Laksa, a typical breakfast dish in Malaysia

 

Typically, prices in West Malaysia (peninsular Malaysia) are a bit cheaper than Borneo. Additionally, with the abundance of adventure tourism in Borneo, greater expenses can add up quite quickly. Especially when you factor in flying to and from Mulu National Park, which can easily add an extra $150 US to your trip.

Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Malaysia.

A day’s expenses in Malaysia

Approximately 3 Malaysian Ringget = 1 US dollar.

Breakfast: dim sum, kaya bun (baked), and tea at a Chinese bakery:  5 RM

Local bus to bus station: 1.50 RM

Bus from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan (about 6 ½ hours): 25 RM (bargained down from 30)

Lunch: Beef rendang with veggies, rice and tea at rest area:  6.50 RM

Local bus into city:  .90 RM

Hotel (shared double room at 38 RM): 19 RM

Afternoon tea with banana fritters: 2 RM

Dinner on the waterfront: 7 RM

Lime juice on ice at bar (for free wifi): 2 RM

Total:  68.9 RM = $23.16 US

A fishmonger in Kota Kinabalu's might market

 

Meals, accommodation, and transport

When I did multi-day treks in the National Park or wildlife sightseeing tours, expenses averaged  $40-50 US per day. Most travelers in Borneo do one or more of these trips, so factor that into your budget.

Prepared meals, transportation, and accommodation are quite inexpensive in Malaysia, although maybe not as cheap as in neighboring countries like Indonesia and Thailand. But if you are careful about spending and stay at the simplest guesthouses or hostels, eat at local kopitiam (“coffee shop” hawker stalls), and use public transportation, you could budget between $20-30 per day. Add additional for above mentioned tours.

Air Asia, Malaysia's budget airline

 

In my experience, dorm beds have run from 15–40 RM and basic doubles with shared bath from 35-70 RM. Meals at street stalls and hawker centers range from about 1.50 RM for “economy” noodles to 6 RM for a nice bowl of laksa. Long distance buses are a good value as well. The 5 ½ hour trip from Penang to Kuala Lumpur is about 30 RM on a spacious, air-conditioned bus.

Malaysia is NOT one of the world’s great beer drinking nations, so I have almost eliminated beer out of my routine. The cheapest you can find beer is 5 or 6 RM per 330ml can. In bars it is much more expensive (8-20 RM). Being a Muslim-majority nation, you’ll have to search out bars or Chinese owned eating establishments to get a drink. My advice is to save your beer drinking for Vietnam!

 

Stephen Bugno is currently on a three month tour throughout southeast Asia including Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. He edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

marina in dakar senegal

Going Jet-free: Alternatives to Flying

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By Avery Sumner

I’ve got a full bladder and a thread thin polyester blanket stretched around me. I can’t reach the valve for the cold flow of air pouring over my seat and I can’t get up to use the bathroom because there’s a half eaten microwaved meal on a tray table locking me in place.

Wine barrel airplane. Now that's alternative energy! At Mas de Gourgonnier, an organic vineyard in Provence making a good quality boutique wine as well as olive oil.

 

Each time I take this flight between France and the United States I wonder how it is I paid (in my free lance world) the equivalent of one or two months’ salary for these conditions. The misery isn’t even rewarded with a rich tale to recount or reflect on later. It’s just a sterile, uncomfortable and really damned expensive experience. Add to that the massive environmental costs of the flight and the fact that if this plane goes down the likely-hood of survivors is, well, unlikely, and voila, you see the inspiration behind this article.

Though I haven’t found an alternative to the flexibility of ocean-crossing flights, I have found some general flying alternatives that make me feel more comfortable about the possibility of these being my last moments. So what could be better than cramming myself on a jet in the final hour? How about cleating the halyards of a sailing vessel headed toward somewhere far, or resting under a blanket of stars so thick I think I can see tomorrow.

Our bus travel in Senegal. Rough going but so much more fun than the sterile airport!

 

If you share my sentiments, maybe you’ll appreciate some of the alternative ways I’ve found to travel.

Freighter

A good option if you have time and a flexible budget. Contrary to popular belief, traveling by freighter is not cheaper than flying. Freighters generally cost around 100 € a day. From where I live in France to an eastern port in the United States I can pretty much count on 10 days. So for about 1,000 € I can get home one way. My last round-trip flight from Barcelona, Spain to Cincinnati, Ohio cost around 600 €, a big difference from the 2000 € a round trip freighter passage would have cost me.

But if I chose to go by freighter I’d be paying for ten days at sea with meals and room included. In essence, a cruise of sorts, with the added bonus of getting me where I want to go. A friend married to the captain of a working ship recently took her first voyage with him. She wrote me saying:

I had the most relaxing and pleasant three months perhaps of my life – sleeping, eating, reading, walking on deck and seeing the beautiful ocean, seas, gulfs, clouds, sunsets and sunrises as a regular part of my daily life. I also enjoyed watching the ship’s activities as we traveled through the Suez Canal and around the Middle East in the Red Sea, Persian Gulf and Arabian Sea.

Most people who travel by ship do it as a cheap way to get away for extended periods. A few books with such accounts are:

Travel by Cargo Ship by H. Verlomme
Running Away to Sea: Round the World on a Tramp Freighter by George Fetherling,
Around the World by Freighter by Bob Hartley
Bureaucrat to Tramp: A Freighter Cruise Adventure by Kenneth M. Peterson
Also the blog: http://goingeast.ca/blog/http:/goingeast.ca/blog/category/freighters/

But if you’re interested in booking a ship in place of a direct flight to a destination of choice, you’ll have to be prepared to pay more, plan more and relax more. Bookings need to be made at least six months in advance and even then, your departure could be delayed as ships change schedule according to unanticipated need.

So for my once a year trip back to the United States I would need to pick a date well in advance and then be prepared to spend 20 days at sea (round trip) with about a week’s wiggle room on either side to account for delayed departures. As difficult as this may sound, it’s entirely possible. The managing director at The Cruise People Ltd [Trans-Atlantic Passenger Ship Service] recently wrote me, “By the way we have a few regular clients in France and we have regular commuters by ship, one of whom does so to/from Australia and another to/from Singapore.” Sounds like I need to get my spontaneous life in order and join the ranks of responsible folks committed to an air-free lifestyle.

Two of the most helpful booking companies in my efforts toward this direction have been:
http://www.cruisepeople.co.uk/
http://www.freightercruises.com/

You can also book passages directly with ships. The friend I mentioned above told me, “I read that French Container Carrier CMA CGM of Marseilles is offering voyages around the world (or parts thereof) on six of their medium-sized container ships.” Going to your nearest port might also prove fruitful.

Another helpful site is http://wikitravel.org/en/Freighter_travel

Sailing/Crewing


One of the most energy efficient ways to travel is with the wind. Better known as hitchhiking across oceans, travelers wanting to crew on sailing vessels have to work to find the ride.

Berths can be found on charter boats, boat deliveries, cruising sailboats and on boats making ocean crossings, circumnavigations or year-long voyages. The most important thing a would-be crew member has to offer is free time as few people can just take off and leave a job or family for weeks of sailing.

 

The largest marina in Europe is in La Rochelle, France

Crew posts out of New England, Scandinavia and England can be found in sailing magazines and local yachting newspapers. But the best place to look for positions are at the ports where sailors often set out for ocean crossings or where they stop to re-provision. The key is being there at the right time.

The best ports and seasons are:

  • Gibraltar from October to December for Atlantic crossings, April to June for heading into the Mediterranean (also Malta, Rhodes, and Piraeus have similar seasons)
  • Canary Islands from October to January to cross to South America and the Caribbean
  • La Rochelle in France is home to the largest marina in Europe, could be a good place to find rides to the Canaries or Gibraltar
  • Antigua, Barbados, St. Thomas and Puerto Rico from October to November
  • Panama any time of year, May for west-bound boats
  • Tahiti around July 14
  • Singapore and Honolulu, months depending on direction desired
  • Miami, San Francisco, Long Beach and San Diego for charter boat posts
  • Beaufort, NC is a famous jumping off spot for sailors headed into the Caribbean
  • Floyd’s Hostel and Crew House in Fort Lauderdale, FL is good for jobs and crew posts
  • Fort Pierce, FL boasts the cheapest marina fees on the east coast of Florida, a good place to find sailors doing work to their boats preparing for long winter cruises

 

The beach at the marina in Dakar, where world sailors moor for cheap.

Expect to spend two or three weeks at each port searching for a crew position. One way to lessen the cost of hanging around a port is working on a yacht in the harbor. You can get paid for varnishing or painting while gaining a good reference for a would be skipper looking to take you on as crew.

Things to consider before signing on to crew:

  • Do you have enough extra cash for airfare home should you find yourself in a bad situation (Most major airlines give a 25 percent discount on one-way fares to seamen/women repatriating? You’ll need proof that you’ve been removed from a vessel’s crew list at a foreign port).
  • Can you get along with a crew 24 hours a day for weeks on end?
  • Why is there a vacancy on the vessel?
  • Will you be charged for food and fuel, if so what is your share?
  • What will your duties be?
  • Is there a written contract for the exchange?
  • If you’re the only woman on board, have you made a few short trips with the crew before taking off for a long voyage?
  • What experience does the captain have?
  • What shape is the boat in?
  • Are you traveling light, with only one bag or back pack?

For more advice get a copy of Lin and Larry Pardey’s Self Sufficient Sailor.
The chapter Hitchhiking across Oceans is very detailed and full of personal experiences.

Mailboats


For island hopping voyages, a great way to see local life is to travel by mail boat. They’re slow going, but the price is right and the vantage point about as real as you can get. A good place to try this traveling style is in the Bahamas where mailboats reach the most remote out-islands in the chain. http://www.bahamas-travel.info/mailboat.htm

Over Land Travel


It’s really hard to resist dirt cheap deals through European airlines like Ryan Air and Easy Jet or US companies like Jet Blue. I know, I could fly to Morocco for 50 € tomorrow if I wanted. It takes a genuine commitment to traveling with a conscience to decline such offers. Just consider the gigantic carbon footprint left by jets and the insulated poor quality of experience you get from them. Remind yourself why you’re traveling in the first place and you’ll easily bid adieu to jets for good.

Train Jaune here in the Pyrenees. It's a slow going electric train that dates from 1910. It runs along the mountain sides offering stunning views.

 

Though expensive, nothing beats the comfort or adventure of traveling by train, especially super fast trains like the TGV in France. And if you do your research, buses can often be quite economical. In my department in France I can take the bus anywhere I want to go for 1€. Though not necessarily the fastest mode of travel, the experience is almost never dull.

If you simply can’t afford mass transportation prices, ride-shares are economical and gaining in popularity. Unlike hitchhiking, where timing and benevolence are chance, ride-sharing is a planned carpool with everyone sharing gas expenses. Sites like Craig’s List in the United States, Allostop in France and Mitfahrgelgenheit in Germany are good places to start. Often times independent local bookstores, coffee shops and natural food stores will post ride shares on bulletin boards.

But if time is no consequence, the richest traveling experiences are always on your own power. When you know your traveling lifestyle is sustainable for budget and planet the choice is easy.

Get inspired to pedal

 

Bikes in Burgundy at the hotel Le Cep.

http://www.adventurecycling.org/
http://www.pedouins.org/history.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/euhansen.html#rollyourown
http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/?

Get inspired to walk:

http://www.ffrandonnee.fr/
http://www.go4hiking.com/news/a-very-long-walk.html
http://www.appalachiantrail.org/site/c.mqLTIYOwGlF/b.4805859/k.BFA3/Home.htm
http://www.cdtrail.org/page.php
If You Only Walk Long Enough by Steve Cracknell
A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail By Bill Bryson

 

sally kay santiago

Interview with a Female Hitchhiker

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Contributing writer Sally Kay has been traveling through South America for 17 months, from Ushuaia, the southernmost tip of Argentina, all the way to Cartagena in the north of Colombia. She has covered many of those miles by hitchhiking.  I was about to meet her in Colombia but she got temporarily held up in Ecuador after being robbed. I was intrigued by her hitchhiking, especially alone as a woman, and I wanted to bring her story to our readers. So she answered some of my questions via email.

Sally Kay above Santiago, Chile

GN: First, the stats: How many times, roughly, have you hitched? How many countries? What was your longest ride?

Sally: I’ve probably hitched about 100 times, give or take, in seven countries.  My longest ride was with a friend across Argentina from Rosario, in the east almost to Salta in the west. When the truck driver stopped for the night we unrolled our sleeping bags and slept beside the semi.

 

GN: How many years have you been traveling like this? When was your first hitch?

Sally: I am relatively new to hitching.  My first ride was in 2009, but I was hooked from the start.

 

GN: The question most people want to know: Are you ever scared hitching as a female? Do you usually hitch with a male companion or another female? Is it safe?

Sally: I have been in slightly uncomfortable or awkward situations, but nothing scary.  Like anything else, I think it’s important to be safe about it. I have hitched alone and with another person without problems, but it really is safer to have a partner while hitchhiking.

I don’t think it’s unsafe for a woman to hitchhike alone during the daytime (depending on the place) and by no means would I advise against it, but a woman and a man together is definitely the best combination.  Whether or not you are actually a couple doesn’t matter, it gives that impression and discourages awkward overtures.

 

GN: I am biased about hitching in my home country, the U.S., because I think can be more dangerous than other places. Have you ever hitched in the States?

Sally: I think that it is more dangerous in the States.  I have thought about it, but the closest I have gotten to hitching in the States is Craigslist rideshares. The main reason I say this, is that while people will tell you hitching is dangerous all over the world, in South America people who do hitch, recommend it. In the States, hitchhikers have warned me that it is too dangerous for a girl alone.  There is also the added problem that hitching is illegal in many states and police will often fine hitchhikers.

GN: What was your easiest country for getting rides? Your most difficult?

Sally: Chile was probably the easiest country to get a ride in. The roads are wonderful, many people have cars, and everyone seems willing to give hitchhikers a ride. I hitched from La Serena on the west coast to Mendoza, Argentina in a day, getting one ride after another.

Colombia was by far the most difficult country to get a ride in. Though Colombians are wonderful people there is still a fear of kidnappings and guerillas. The government even has run announcements warning drivers not to pick up hitchhikers. This sadly makes hitching in Colombia almost impossible.

 

GN: Any stories of over-the-top hospitality?

Sally: That’s part of why I love hitchhiking.  It’s pretty standard for truck drivers to buy hitchhikers meals when they stop to eat, which is always nice.  I have had truckers offer to pay for bus tickets when we weren’t headed to the same place. I have had truckers invite myself and a hitching partner sailing with them.

I think probably my favorite over-the-top hospitality experience was traveling with a friend.  A truck driver called ahead to the city we were visiting, found us a hotel room, and paid for our accommodation.

 

GN: What has been the most frightening part of hitching; when were you worried the most?

Sally: I have been pretty lucky and haven’t had any really frightening experiences.  Once I hitched with a trucker, it was pretty far, but I thought we would make it to our destination before nightfall.  Much to my surprise he pulled over and stopped for the night and ended up making advances on me.  It was extremely uncomfortable but I told him quite firmly that I wanted no part of that and wanted out of his truck.

As soon as he realized I was serious about it, he apologized profusely and was extremely embarrassed, but it could have gone quite differently.  After that, I never hitched alone after dark or on extended trips where there was any possibility the driver would stop for the night.

 

GN: Why Hitch? Are you trying to save money or just after some adventure?

Sally: Hitching is more than just a way to save money.  It is a great way to meet some extremely interesting people you wouldn’t otherwise encounter, see a different side of countries, and some amazing nature along the roads.  It is also wonderful to see how kind so many people are, hear their stories, and get an entirely different perspective on life.

I hitchhiked with one miner who had grown up in a family so poor the nine children had to share four pairs of shoes when they went to school.  Half the children had morning classes and would bring the shoes back for the other children to wear in the afternoon.  Not only did the miner have fascinating stories, but he took me and my travel partner to the mine he worked at and let us stay in this amazing house made completely out of salt, with salt tables and benches!

GN: Any advice to anyone out there, especially for females who are looking to travel by thumb?

Sally: There are a million ways to hitchhike, but I’d be happy to give a little advice to help get some new hitchhikers started.

  • Do not get into a truck if you get a bad feeling about the driver or the vehicle.
  • Bring a map with you. That way you will be able to see the best route to where you want to go.
  • Starting early is another good idea, especially for women, but for men as well. Drivers rarely pick up hitchers after dark, and with good reason. You and the driver want to be able to see one another.
  • Smile, do a dance, look the driver in the eyes, and make yourself stand out.  Drivers want to pick up hitchhikers who will be good company and pass the time.

 

Sally has written Ten Things she should know before couchsurfing: Tips for Women and A Hitchhiker’s Guide to South America for GoMad Nomad. She blogs at: Adventuresse Travels

Interview by Stephen Bugno

 

 

 

 

 

ometepe nicaragua sunset

Photo of the Week: Ometepe Island, Nicaragua

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Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

One of the highlights of Nicaragua, Ometepe Island, or La Isla de Ometepe, should not be missed on a trip through Nicaragua.

Get to the island on a ferry boat ride from Rivas, crossing the choppy waters of Lake Cocibolca. The twin Volcano peaks Concepcion and Maderas rise out of the lake and dominate the island. There are a few villages around the island with hostels, guesthouses, and farms to stay at.

There is no shortage of places to volunteer around the island either. An orphanage, organic farms, and a biologic field station all welcome volunteers. I met an American couple staying at Hotel Hacienda Merida who lingered there for a couple weeks teaching English to the local kids in exchange for free accommodation.

Besides volunteering and farming, you can swim in clear springs and climb the volcanoes. But don’t expect any views from the top of Maderas or Concepcion because their peaks are covered in cloud forest. It was actually so cool and wet at the top that my hiking party didn’t even want to continue down into the crater of Maderas.

For an awesome guidebook to Nicaragua, I recommend Moon Nicaragua (Moon Handbooks)

For more photos of Nicaragua visit my album on Flickr.

Text and photos by Stephen Bugno


Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

The docks at Moyogalpa

 

ometepe jungle trail maderas volcano

The trail through the cloud forest on the top of Maderas Volcano on the Island of Ometepe, Nicaragua

A fish dinner at our hostel in Merida, Ometepe

Cascada San Ramon on the Island of Ometepe in Nicaragua

A view of Concepcion Volcano on the Island of Ometepe in Nicaragua

 

Couchsurfing Party

10 Things She Should Know Before Couchsurfing: Tips for Women

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By Sally Kay

The Couchsurfing Project is a great tool for the curious and thrifty traveler.  The project idea is a cultural exchange in which members are the type of people who want share their culture and to learn about others.  Couchsurfers want to get to know more than just the tourist attractions: they are travelers, not tourists.

I have been a member for almost three years now, surfing, showing people around my city, and hosting.  As fantastic as couchsurfing can be, there can be a dark side too.  Because of that, as a woman, especially if you are a woman traveling solo, you do need to be careful.  In some countries, in the Middle East for example, it is better to couchsurf with women.  However I do not like to limit myself as far as hosts.  Here are a few guidelines to make your experience the best it can be.

A couchsurfing party

Read your potential host’s profile carefully

Couchsurfing isn’t about getting a free place to stay; it’s about cultural exchange, getting to know the real place.  Don’t send a request to people you don’t think you’ll get along with.  Everyone has different criteria for choosing hosts, but I try to contact people who share my interests, have hobbies I find interesting, seem like I could learn from, or who would just be fun to spend time with.  Traveling is a lot more fun when you’re with people you like.

Only contact members with filled-out profiles

If a person hasn’t taken the time to fill out their profile, they probably aren’t the best choice for a host (or for a guest).  How can you tell what interests you share, what their views on life are, or really anything about them unless they have filled out their profile?


Only contact people with pictures who have pictures

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.  If a member hasn’t taken the time to upload a picture then one has to wonder why. (Editor’s note: you also want to make sure the picture is the same individual you meet in person)

Read over the Couch Information

This tells you what the bed is like, if you’ll have your own room, and what the sleep set-up is. It is couchsurfing, so you shouldn’t expect to have your own room, but I stay away from men offering to share their room.  Even if there are two beds in the room, I feel like it’s best not to tempt fate.

Make sure your potential host has references

and read them carefully.  References are there as a safety measure, and you can learn a lot about a person from them.  Sure, everyone starts out without references, but for a woman couchsurfing alone it’s safer to send couch requests to hosts with good references.  If you want to be extra careful then look at the profiles of the people who’ve left the references.


Vouching

Another safety measure in couchsurfing is vouching.  It signifies the person vouching for the couchsurfer trusts that member.  Members who are vouched for are safer to contact.

Stay away from male hosts only offering couches to women

There are always exceptions, but often when a man puts “preferred gender” as “female” this means that the man is using couchsurfing for the wrong reasons: to meet women.  One of the first rules of couchsurfing is that it is not a dating website.  Of course romances can happen; sometimes there is chemistry between two people.  However, if the host assumes something romantic will happen with their guests, tries to manufacture a romantic connection, or feels that the guest is in some way obligated to him, then that is definitely not okay.

Always trust your instincts

If anything gives you a bad feeling about a profile, then don’t send a request.  Intuition is a powerful thing and it is always better to be safe than sorry.

Stay with families

I prefer to stay with women, or men living with their family.  Living with your family into adulthood is extremely common in many countries, and the families are generally extremely kind.

Talk to your host first

Send a few email exchanges back and forth, chat on Skype or MSN messenger to get to know your host a little before staying with him or her.  At least for your first few times couchsurfing.

If you don’t feel comfortable in a place then leave.

Go to a hostel or check into a hotel. If something in the back of your mind says that this isn’t the right place then listen. Just because you’ve sent a couch request does not mean that you are obligated to stay the exact number of days requested.  If you feel awkward telling them the truth, then invent an excuse, but always remember: your safety is first.


By following these guidelines and by using a little common sense, you’ll have a fantastic time.  In fact, I find that couchsurfing is actually a safer way to travel; you have a friend wherever you go.  To make things better, you are under the auspices of a savvy local who knows his or her way around the city, give you advice, and want to help.  So what are you waiting for?  Get couchsurfing!


After graduating from the University of Kansas’ school of Journalism Sally hit the road and hasn’t looked back.  She has explored Europe, Africa, South America, and North America, lived in Slovakia, Hungary and Argentina and is currently traveling in South America. She writes about her adventures in the blog www.adventuressetravels.wordpress.com, has had articles in various online travel magazines, and is a travel guru for the website Tripeezy LLC.

Landmannalaugar iceland travel mountains

Ask GoMad Nomad: Travel to Iceland

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Dear GoMad Nomad,

Have you ever been to Iceland, or would ever consider making the trip?  My wife listened to the audio book Frost on my Moustache: The Arctic Exploits of a Lord and a Loafer and ever since has been hooked! How much money do we need to save?  How long would you recommend we take to get a good feel for the country, etc.?

-Bill in Pennsylvania

Landmannalaugar iceland travel mountains

Landmannalaugar Iceland

Dear Bill,

I have never been to Iceland, but from what I hear and read it is a fantastic place to travel—lots  of really cool geologic features, hot springs, volcanoes, great scenery, hiking, ice-climbing, glacier hiking.

How much

Unfortunately, Iceland is notorious for being a very expensive place to visit. But since the stock market crash of 2008, prices have become a little more reasonable for travelers.

Iceland might be the place to do some camping, RVing, or try couchsurfing, hitchhiking, not drinking alcohol, and staying in hostels or sleeping bag accommodation in guest houses and farm houses. Also try self-contained cabins if you’re traveling in a group.

As far as an exact number for your budget, it all depends on your travel style. Lonely Planet suggests the bus riding/camping/self-catering budget traveler could scrape by on $25 US per day. Throw in some comforts like staying at an average hotel, eating out, and driving your own car, you could spend $215 per day. So that leaves a wide spectrum in between depending on your needs and your approach to travel.

How long

As far as time, I wouldn’t go for less than two weeks. It’s a relatively small island, but it’s just more economical and greener to spend more time in a place you have flown to. If you don’t have the time to make a trip exclusively to Iceland, consider stopping on your way to Europe. I know Iceland Air allows free stopovers. Check out this article on How to Make the Most Out of Your Stopover in Iceland.

When to Go

Time of year is important.  High Season is June to August, when the sun only sets briefly each night. During the March and September equinoxes, days and nights are about equal in length. If you go in December, it’s almost 20 hours of darkness.

Early or late winter, however, can be a surprisingly good time to visit. In late January, daylight lasts from about 10am to 5pm, and expenses can be 40% lower during this off-season. And although the snow covered landscape can be beautiful at this time, not all the sites are accessible in the winter. Flights may be cheaper in the winter too.

Get a Guidebook

Iceland (Lonely Planet Country Guide) The Rough Guide to Iceland 4 (Rough Guides) Iceland (Bradt Travel Guide)

-Stephen

Photo credit: Michel Osmont

tayrona national park beach

9 Reasons to Visit Colombia Now

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By Stephen Bugno

It’s finally safe enough

A painting from Medellin's Museo Antioquia

The days of worrying about getting kidnapped in Colombia are more or less over. Colombia’s tourism board is telling us that “the only risk is wanting to stay”. The main tourist routes are established and travel to Colombia is the safest it’s been in years. True, the FARC still exist, but they have been pushed deep into the countryside, mostly in the southeast of the country. Don’t worry, there are plenty of fantastic and safe sites, both on and off-the-beaten-path, so come before it gets too crowded with tourists.

Colonial Settlements


Besides, Cartagena, the crown jewel of all New World colonial cities, there are plenty of gorgeous small colonial cities and towns. Arguably the most beautiful are Barichara and Villa de Leiva. But Popoyan, Giron, Mongui, and the village of Guane make a good case too.  These places have well-preserved architecture and I spent much of my time just strolling through the streets and in some cases enjoying the fine views surrounding the towns. Get to your feet and hike the 180-year-old Camino, a stone path connecting Barichara to Guane.

Colombians


I haven’t met such warm and friendly people in a long time of traveling. The majority of Colombians I came in contact with are outwardly happy and love socializing, dancing, and listening to music. They are open to sharing their upbeat culture with foreigners, so don’t miss the opportunity to join in the multitude of year-round fiestas or Saturday night Salsa dancing at a club.

The Lost City

Photo credit: Sailing Nomad

The Lost City is an archeological site of an ancient city in the Sierra Nevada near Santa Marta. It is accessible by a five-day trek that rivals that of Machu Picchu. The verdict is universal from those returning: it is a fantastic experience and a classic South American adventure. The Lost City was only discovered in 1972 and requires hikers to tramp through jungle and rivers, passing indigenous communities and cocaine producers all the way to the 1200 stone steps that lead to the entrance of the ancient site.

Caribbean Beaches


If your idea of a tropical beach paradise includes spending the night in a hammock overlooking white sand beaches fringed with palm trees, then you’ll like Colombia’s Caribbean coast. Two places in particular you should head for are the pristine beaches and thick jungle of Tayrona National Park and the beautiful bays and clear waters of the remote coast in and around Capurgana, near the border of Panama.

The Unexplored Pacific Coast

Photo credit: svenwerk

Isolated would be a good word to use when describing Colombia’s Pacific coast. Only two roads lead to this vast coastline of 1300 km. The rest you’ll have to explore by boat and plane. What you’ll find there are empty beaches and islands, remote fishing communities, and spectacular whale watching. On Isla Gorgona, the former prison island-cum-national park you can spot monkeys, iguanas and an abundance of flora and fauna.

Coffee Country


Although sometimes cool and rainy, the Zona Cafetera, or coffee country, is a great place to slow down and relax for a few days. Around the sleepy village of Salento, near Armenia, you can tour family-run coffee farms, hike among the bizarre wax palms in the Cocora Valley, or just sit in cafes sipping coffee. For a nice town that sees almost no tourists, head to Salamina, where you can stroll the streets while taking in the great views of coffee farms on the hillsides surrounding town.

Good Value


Colombia’s not the bargain basement that Bolivia is, nor is it as expensive as Brazil, but it still represents a great value for travelers. With hostel dorm beds ranging from $US 8-12, full three-course lunches from $2.50-4, beers for about a buck a piece, you can have a great time and not spend too much money. Why not give paragliding (for $33) a try while you’re in San Gil?

It might get dangerous again


Although, Medellin has made tremendous strides to become a completely livable city again, the crime rate has spiked back upwards in the last two years and people are talking about it. Better get to Cali, Medellin, and Bogota before they get too dangerous again. The worldwide economic crisis has lead to an increase in unemployment, which has taken its toll on Colombian society.


Stephen Bugno has spent the better part of the last decade traveling the world in between English teaching gigs and writing about the places he visits, from the Gobi Desert in Mongolia to the tapas bars of Madrid. He blogs at Bohemian Traveler and edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag.

amazon river boat hammocks

Cruising down the Amazon: Your Guide to a do-it-yourself Amazon Boat Trip

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By Noel Lau


An Amazon river boat passes slowly by

What is it about languidly cruising down the Amazon River that strikes people as romantic or exotic? Tales from travelers, documentaries and movies have made this boat ride up or down the cafe au lait-colored river a must-do South American adventure.

Manaus, Bazil: Your Amazon Adventure Begins

Whatever your route is, you’ll either start or end in Manaus—a hot and humid city stuck in the middle of the world’s largest rainforest. The city itself is quite boring except for the beautiful theater, but it will be your base if you choose to do a bird watching or piranha fishing trip into the jungle.

Manaus managed to appeal to me mainly because I wanted to be on solid ground for a while after taking a three-day boat ride from Porto Velho, a Brazilian city close to the Bolivian border. In Manaus, I learned the next boat leaving on the seven-day trip to Tabatinga (next to Leticia, Colombia), wouldn’t be leaving for another four days.

Hammocks on the Amazon River boat

Buying your Ticket

For the next few days I walked to the Manaus Port everyday to check the prices, which ranged from 330-350 reais ($190-205 USD). I was told that you could get it cheaper at the last minute when the captains want to fill up their boats. Unfortunately, I found out two days before the departure that this was the only boat leaving in the next week, so prices kept rising.

I started asking around and the locals told me that there’s another port entrance about 400 meters away where the locals buy. I rushed there and found a ticket for 300 reais ($175 USD). The only catch is that because it’s the secondary entrance, you have to pay a small launch to take you to the boat.


Normally you are allowed to sleep on the boat for the days prior to its departure without extra charge, but the captain was having the boat painted, so I had to stay another night in the hostel. The next morning I left very early to get to the boat. If you are among the first to arrive, you get to pick a good spot to put up your hammock.

The author on the boat

Choosing your Hammock

You can buy a cheap hammock at the market in town. They cost from $5 USD upwards. Or the second option is pay triple the price to get an air-con, cell-like cabin. The boat has three levels; the best place to put your hammock is on the second level at the front. You want to avoid the foul smell and insects from the toilet and kitchen which are located at the rear of the boat.

The bottom level is for merchandise and goods, so if the boat is full and you come late, you might have to sleep among crates and boxes. The top level is an open deck where the bar is located. Whatever you do, don’t sleep there. The one thing all these boats that ply the Amazon have in common is that they like to play music, mostly raggaeton and forro (a type of Brazilian popular music) at an insanely loud volume from the morning, all day until 2 or 3am.

Life on the Boat

Houses along the Amazon

All three meals on board are included in the price of the ticket. Breakfast is served at 6am which is usually biscuits and coffee with milk. Lunch is at 11am, which consists of rice, beans, pasta, chicken or beef. Dinner is the same as lunch and is served at 5pm. We had to take turns during meal times because there were so many people. But don’t worry, there is always plenty of food.

It is advisable, however, to go to the supermarket beforehand to stock up on bread, biscuits, snacks, etc. Make sure you keep them in air-tight bags and hang them on the beam above your hammock. I bought a bag of sweets and by the second day an army of ants were having a party in it. Since all bars on boats sell beers, most boats prohibit passengers from bringing their own alcohol.

There is no routine on the boat besides meal times. We were woken up every day by an ear piercing whistle. Then we had the rest of the day to do nothing. Most locals took to chatting; the men with the men, the women would huddle together to do each others’ nails or exchange gossip, and the children played together—the whole boat became their playground. Backpackers  and travelers tended to seek each other out, exchanging stories, experiences and books. Someone will definitely have a deck of cards or some games to kill the time.

On the shore of a Amazon village

Whenever I could get away from them, I enjoyed sitting on the top deck, watching the lush green jungle pass by. Wildlife watching was my pastime as well. Birds were quite easy to spot, but naming them was impossible. I had never seen such a colorful and diverse array of birds. Once I spotted some monkeys swinging from tree to tree. And I was quite lucky to see some pink dolphins. I got used to life on the boat. It became very soothing to see the wide slow-flowing river beneath me and not be in a rush to do anything.

Stopping in Villages along the River


The boat stopped often in villages to unload cargo, sometimes up to a few hours. Even though most of the villages aren’t very beautiful, I still wanted to step onto solid ground, even for a few minutes, just to break the monotony of life on the boat. I would go into the villages, have a drink and watch life in an Amazon village unfold before my eyes. It was quite hypnotic.

The arrival of boats is usually the highlight of the week for these villages, as they bring home loved ones, supplies, medicine, etc. It’s hard to imagine living in a place so cut off from the rest of the world, where the only connection is days ride down the river. Yet due to modern technology such as TV, phones, etc. these places don’t feel so isolated.

On the second to last day, we stopped in an indigenous village. I was surprised at how modern things are: children wearing hand-me-down western brand t-shirts, young men in stylish sunglasses riding motorcycles, houses built with cement rather than wood. Yet among the western influences, I was happy to see kids still playing in the river without care, their laughter ringing out in unison to the pounding sounds from the women washing their clothes by the river.

Just when I was enjoying myself and growing accustomed to life on the boat, we arrived at our destination: Tabatinga. It felt rather anticlimactic, because I realized that the existence of those few days on the boat was a time-wrapped bubble and now that bubble had burst and reality had rushed in.

Practical Info:

Cities, days, costs
Porto Velho to Manaus           3 days              $60-90 USD
Manaus to Tabatinga               7 days              $190-205 USD

What to bring:
Insect repellent, light blanket/sleeping bag, hammock, earplugs, books, playing cards and a healthy dose of patience.

Noel Lau has been traveling and working his way around the world for the past decade. Most recently he has been living in Colombia after a year of slowly crossing the South American continent by bus, boat, and plane.

sally_medellin_flower_fest

A Hitchhiker’s Guide to South America

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By Sally Kay

South America is a huge continent, and a lot of backpackers want to hitchhike through it.  But in this vast continent every country is different, so hitchhiking can vary quite a lot.  Here is a rough guide to hitchhiking in the different countries of South America.

Argentina

The author hitching in Argentina

Argentina is a wonderful country and hands down one of the safest and best countries for hitchhiking.  You may occasionally have to wait a few hours for a ride, but one always comes along.  Argentina might not be quite as easy as Chile, but it is still one of the best countries to hitchhike in South America.  It’s a good thing too, because bus prices in Argentina can be quite expensive.

Bolivia

In many ways Bolivia is a backpacker’s paradise.  Unfortunately, it is one of the poorest counties in South America.  Because of this there are very few privately-owned cars and hitchhiking can be extremely difficult.  The busses, trucks, and public transport are extremely cheap and would certainly be an easier option in this country.

Brazil

Brazil is far and away the largest country in South America and one of the most expensive, but hitchhiking here is hit or miss.  I have had a truck driver offer me a ride all the way to Rio from Santiago de Chile, but often people have terrible luck finding a ride even a short distance.  Brazil is also not one of the safest countries and I would not recommend solo travelers tackle hitchhiking there.  On the other hand if you are trying to save money, Brazil’s bus prices are astronomical and the country is huge.  It might be a good idea to look for a hitchhiking partner to come with you on your tour of the vast expanse of Brazil.

Villa Traful Argentina

Chile

Chile is a fantastic country for hitchhiking.  People pick up both male and female hitchhikers quickly and are extremely friendly.  Often they will buy lunch, pay for the hostel or hotel they drop their passengers off at, and take passengers right to the address they are going.  Even though it is a relatively safe country, I still wouldn’t recommend women hitchhiking alone, especially at night.  Still, with Chilean bus prices quite expensive hitching is a good option to consider.

Colombia

Colombia is an amazing country.  The people are friendly, open, caring, and welcoming; it is unquestionably one of the friendliest countries in South America.  On the other hand, Colombia is one of the hardest countries to hitchhike in. Though people do have their own cars and transportation is more expensive than neighboring Peru or Ecuador, rides are few and far between.  Though the guerilla is chiefly under control and the country is relatively safe, the country’s violent history is fresh in peoples’ minds.  Because of this, many Colombians remain leery of picking up strangers on the road.  The government also has run ad campaigns discouraging citizens from picking up hitchhikers which does not help.

If you do decide to hitchhike in Colombia, remember not to offer or accept food or drinks.  (this does not apply to being taken to restaurants) In the past, kidnappers have used drugged drinks to capture their victims and sharing your water will not be taken kindly.

Hitching with a friend through South America

Ecuador

Busses in Ecuador are not expensive, about USD $1/hour, but it is possible hitchhike there.  You  might have to wait a while for a ride, but someone will pick you up.

Peru

Peru is another of the poorer countries in South America.  Because of this, though it is possible to get rides, people will often ask you to pay for gas.  Many truck drivers will even go so far as to ask passengers for a fare, supplementing their paycheck by giving rides to backpackers.  Busses in Peru are reasonably inexpensive and rather than wait hours for a ride that you will probably have to pay for anyway, the bus might be a better option here.

Uruguay

Formerly a province of Argentina, Uruguay continues to be similar in many respects, kind of a mini-Argentina if you will.  The attitude towards hitchhiking is one of these many commonalities.  Though Uruguay is a tiny country, it is up there as one of the safest, easiest countries in South America to hitchhike.

Venezuela

There are varied reports of hitchhiking in Venezuela.  Some have tremendous luck while others struggle.  As a US citizen I am reticent to go to Venezuela and even more hesitant to hitchhike there.  Because of Chavez and his problems with the US government, if US citizens choose to travel to Venezuela it is easier, faster, and safer to take busses.  But don’t take my word for it, if you are comfortable and confident with it get out there and prove me wrong!


After graduating from the University of Kansas’ school of Journalism Sally hit the road and hasn’t looked back.  She has explored Europe, Africa, South America, and North America, lived in Slovakia, Hungary and Argentina and is currently traveling in South America. She writes about her adventures in the blog www.adventuressetravels.wordpress.com, has had articles in various online travel magazines, and is a travel guru for the website Tripeezy LLC.

hitching

Ask GoMad Nomad: Little money, still want to travel

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Dear GoMad Nomad:

I’m low on cash but still want to travel, what should I do? Go into further debt and live life in the moment, or do the prudent thing and save up my money?

-Broke In Brooklyn

Dear Broke in Brooklyn:

My first advice is to get the heck out of Brooklyn! You’ll save up more money living in the sticks. But, yeah, yeah, I know you want to be at the epicenter of Hipsterdom.

Anyhow, to answer your question: Don’t go into debt! But…you can still travel on very limited funds. The options are limitless.

Since you don’t have money, I’m assuming you have time.  You can spend that extra time that you normally spend nursing PBRs on Bedford Ave, researching and planning out your travel.

First thing you’ll have to understand about cheap/budget travel is that it happens very slowly. You’ll have to opt for the pueblo bus over the bullet train; and if you’re going to hitch, you’ll have a lot of time to perfect your hacky sack skills while waiting for your free rides. So I’d reserve anywhere from two months to a year for this expedition.

If you just happen to have graduated from college and don’t know what to do, check out this fantastic post over at Almost Fearless.

Since you have the time, I would highly recommend volunteering, “helping,” working, and temporarily residing in the places you plan on visiting. This will allow you to actually experience the place and get to know the people you have traveled so far to visit.

Volunteering

This one is tricky. You want to avoid paying a fee to volunteer. I don’t mind helping others, but I don’t like to have to pay for that privilege, and neither should you. Check out these awesome articles for low-cost or free volunteering opportunities in Nepal, the West Bank, and Spain. Transitions Abroad Magazine is also an incredible resource for volunteering abroad info.

Help Exchange

Before I started teaching English in Madrid, I almost took a gig helping an English couple in Brittany restore an old train station into a B & B. I would have helped them for four hours a day and they would have fed me and given me a room in their home. The rest of the day I could spend working on my writing projects with the help of their wireless internet. I used Help Exchange to connect with these people in need of a helper. But the dream was never realized.

Working

Get to the Caribbean or cross the Atlantic while working aboard a yacht. Skippers in ports far and wide are always looking for a crew that preferably speaks their language and may or may not have sailing experience. Good sites to connect skippers and crew: Crewfinders, Yacht Crew Register, or Dovaston Crew.

Temporarily Residing

A great option is house sitting. I kind of want to make a career out of this, except it doesn’t pay very well. Why not take care of the perritos and water Señora Torres’ garden for the month August while she’s vacationing at her other home on the Canaries? You’ll probably need a good reference before strangers will entrust you with their home and animals. Use Mind My House, House Careers, or House Sit World.

So if you combine a little traveling in between some of these ideas, you’ll have a well-rounded trip.  Use couchsurfing for accommodation read up on hitchhiking before you leave.

-Stephen

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