GoMad Nomad Travel

I first met Matt Tansey in North Carolina in 2009. Since then he’s been touring off and on with other musicians throughout Europe. I’m fascinated with the stories of individuals that travel with some kind of purpose, and what’s cooler than seeing Europe as part of a band?

GoMad Nomad: How long have you been touring through Europe? What do you play in the band?  What is your band like, personally and musically? What responsibilities do you have outside music to the band while touring?

Matt Tansey: The tour wound up being 25 days long, which is quite a bit longer than my previous touring experience.  I play solo stuff mostly but my friend Tim Vantol and I teamed up and played lots of songs as a duo on this tour.

My music is sort of a blend of various folk genres. I guess really I just try to make straightforward, honest music without too many bells and whistles.  I’m not trying to blow anyone’s mind with my guitar playing or make any grand philosophical statements with my lyrics.  I’m just trying to write about how I feel and what I believe.  If you want to give it a listen, you can check it out at: matttansey.bandcamp.com

As far as responsibilities go for the tour: I carry a lot of instruments, merchandise and equipment, try to be a nice person to be around for the others I’m with, and have a really good time.

GN: What’s the best part about touring with a band through Europe?

MT: Getting to see old friends and make new ones.  The people I meet on tour are just such awesome people and they really make it worth it for me.  It’s truly incredible to think of all the generosity I’ve received and witnessed.  It’s hard to fathom. 

GN: What are the not-so-glamorous parts of hitting the road with a band?

MT: Spending that much time together with the same people is always going to be difficult.  But on this tour we managed to communicate well and iron out our problems.  I was touring with two good friends so we managed to work through any problems we had.

GN: Did you get a chance to see and do stuff in the places you were playing? What countries were part of this tour?

MT: Yes and no.  Some days you have lots of time, and others you don’t because you spend 10 hours driving.  But I managed to do some exploring in the south of France and in Switzerland when we had free days.  I love running, so I went for runs in incredibly beautiful places.  Also, some of the drives have just been gorgeous.  There were about 25 shows in seven countries, so it might be best just to list the countries (in order):

• Belgium
• France
• Spain
• Italy
• Austria
• Switzerland
• Germany

Also, it is unclear if we crossed the border into Monaco or not.  It’s tough to call.

GN: Any funny stories from the road?

MT: Too many.  There were times when I could barely comprehend how I could be watching the ridiculous things I was watching.  Most of them involved either me or one of my tour buddies doing something that went against common social norms.  I’d say the one that sticks out most to me was jumping into the ocean naked in Biarritz with a whole bunch of strangers cheering us on.  One of us suggested it and then we collectively sort of agreed that you only live once and that we would regret not doing it, so we did it.  One of us stayed on the side and took pictures and there must have been 20 people who just started cheering.  It was a pretty funny moment for sure.

GN: You grew up bi-cultural, with a European parent and another from the US. Can you tell us how that has affected your upbringing and your worldview?

MT: I remember returning to the States from Europe when I was 15 and hearing someone in a Social Studies class say “America is the greatest country in the world” and just scoffing.  It’s not that America isn’t a great country, but I was always amazed at that sort of insular patriotism.  Having seen and met people from different places definitely gave me a broader view of the world than many people get at that age.  Also, learning a second language has opened a lot of doors for me and always surprises German speakers when I meet them and just start speaking German.

GN: I often stress that traveling for a purpose, in this case playing music, often puts us in contact with people we might have not otherwise met. Has touring brought you closer to locals or any particularly interesting cultural situations?

Well, for one, musicians get the royal treatment in Europe for sure.  Shows generally come with a meal and a place to stay, which is not the case in the States.  It makes the whole process not only more social (with the hosts) but also more comfortable and more financially viable.  So I got to spend a lot of time with really hardworking and generous people who helped us out immensely.  Not to say I might not have met similar people traveling in a different way, but I’d say that was the most notable thing about the folks I met.

GN: Is music going to be your career, or do you have other plans? Will travel always be part of your life?

MT: You know, there’s a cynic in me that always whispers in my own ear that I can never make it as a musician.  But I’m trying to rid myself of that.  That being said, I do have some other plans (graduate school) that might prevent me from dedicating myself to music full time.  It’s an ongoing debate in my mind.  However, I don’t ever see myself not traveling.  I’ve just got so many great friends and family members in so many places that I couldn’t bring myself to not visit them.

GN: Thanks so much for taking the time to tell us your story! Best of luck with your music and your career and keep traveling!

Interview compiled by Stephen Bugno

The Cinque Terre or The Five Lands are five villages in the Liguria region of Italy: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. I recently visited two of them, Manarola and Riomaggiore, during a short vacation in Tuscany and Liguria.

These towns are incredible; they have a special atmosphere of small medieval seaside settlements that have kept their historical face because of the surrounding mountain landscape. Over the centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, but cars cannot reach them from the outside. The Cinque Terre is also famous for the vineyards that surround each town which is a source of pride for local people.

Manarola is the oldest and the second smallest town of the Cinque Terre. Here you can easily access the ocean and “have a bath” during the hotter months. In Riomaggiore, there is boat rental service that gives visitors an opportunity to enjoy the sea.

The Via dell’Amore (Path of Love) is a path connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola. The paved walking path was laid over the rocky cliffs along the sea and is a little more than one kilometer. One part of the path has fences where lovers can place a lock as a symbol of their strong feelings. Another small part passes through a tunnel, where the walls are devoted to declarations of love which anyone can write on.

Text and Photos by Nell Rakhimova

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By Beau Miller

“It’s governed by a council/ All good souls and wise./ They’ve only $5 for armaments/ And the rest for cakes and pies.” -Pete Seeger, “Andorra”

As your attorney, I advise you to rent a fuel-efficient automobile and drive at top speed to Andorra, but before you start packing the trunk with ether, Wild Turkey, and limes—stop. And think. Absinthe in Andorra is as abundant as the mountains, and at 3 Euro a liter for a bottle of the Green Fairy, you have more room for the Acapulco shirts and handguns. Now for the gory details. You have to go through France or Spain to get there. No public airports in Andorra, just curving stretches of finely-manicured highway being skillfully navigated upon by peace-loving Andorrans. Here I take the risk of coming off as some pretentious jackass, and I invite you to do the same. Because somewhere, in gritty Williamsburg, Austin, and Portland bars fair-skinned hands will tremble around their cans of PBR and filterless Luckies with borderline-uncontrollable desire as you utter one of the most powerful combination of words in modern English, “When I was in Andorra…”

Undoubtedly there will be those who, while able to identify the finer points of bicycle restoration, are unable to locate Andorra on a map or think it would be a great name for a band nobody’s heard of yet. Therefore you must arm yourself to the teeth with information. Skip the CIA Factbook because I’m supremely confident that they got their information from Pete Seeger’s 1960s love ballad about Andorra. However, recent developments must be taken into account in order to rightly appreciate the evolution of Andorran sagacity. Since the 1960s, it would appear that Andorra’s approximately $5 defense budget has been decreased. By approximately $5. It now delegates responsibility for the protection of its people, cakes, and pies to Spain and France. Though, the French, it would seem, are envious enough of their Catalonian neighbors and the unrivaled quality of their queso-induced siestas, that they keep a jab at Andorra holstered and at the ready for whenever mention of this tiny Pyrenean utopia is mentioned. “What does one do in Andorra?” the joke-teller will inquire. When met with a shrug of the shoulder or the oral imitation of the sounds of quick, satisfying flatulence (the preferred method by which many French exclaim their befuddlement), the joke-teller will go for the throat: “On dort!” In English, the punch-line translates to “One sleeps,” but in French it is a clever play on words, as it is pronounced exactly as locals pronounce the name of their nation in Catalan (Andorre). Yes, one sleeps, but only after one has had their fill of outdoor activity, paella, and strong drink.

Make for the campsite of your choice. In a country 176 square miles, it’s hard to get too far out of an Andorran city, but what it lacks in seclusion, it makes up for with its ability to provide a perfect cocktail of European caravanners. Anywhere is close to the capital city of Andorra la Vella and its tax-free shopping, and if not traveling solo, “bungalows” offer cheap accommodation, with separate bedrooms, shower, and a kitchen/absinthe-drinking arena perfect for discussing the social commentary of Celentano’s “Yuppi Du” (Youtube it). Though as the propietari of the Camping Pla confessed to me, the shower is not quite big enough to fit all your friends in at once. It can be hard to find a “cheap” plate of local grub, but you get what you pay for, and a plate of local paella and a bottle of house wine split with a camarada will leave one immensely satisfied. For keeping to a budget hit up the Andorra 2000, the bastard step-child of Walmart and a medieval public market, for its cheap and affordable selection of any type of alcohol under the sun, the legs of any standard livestock you might desire, and a tremendous array of cheeses. Nutella comes in buckets.
Initially drawn to Andorra as part of the search for either a setting for a setting for workplace team-building exercises or mass destruction, the US State Department, in 2003, estimated the average daily cost of a stay in Andorra to be $226. This raises significant questions. How could four exuberant young go-getters in a brand-spanking-new Ford Fiesta make the 1,500 km, round-trip journey from Lyon, France to the illustrious Camping Pla in Canillo, Andorra, spend two nights in a bungalow, and return with a trunk full of Absinthe, Andorra-stenciled lighters, pens, fridge magnets, and the country’s Euro-style, ovular, white “AND” stickers (which identify the owner of the property upon which said sticker is affixed, as a pacifist pastry eater who will survive both nuclear holocaust and the subsequent zombie apocalypse thanks solely to Andorra’s “under the radar” status) all for the low, low price of approximately 120 €, for transportation, food, lodging, and party favors? What kicks were State Department henchmen getting in Andorra? Maybe they should be writing this article.

All in all, Andorra offers an affordable feast for the soul and all senses. It takes a special kind of person to reach this Shangri-la of the Pyrenees, an even more special person to throw the proverbial boulder in the figurative pond of its quiet mountain towns, and a rare breed of animal to successfully arouse the (wander) lust of those susceptible to stories of raucous adventures in countries they weren’t quite sure existed.

To do it right, go in June, just before the tourist season picks up. By beating the rush, you guarantee yourself a wide berth to roam about Andorra spontaneously and irrationally, and you are more likely to succeed in finding lodging only a short stumble away from local bars and restaurants. July and August bring in the summer hordes before the short fall and the ski season. Accommodations and other information are easily found on Andorra’s tourism website. Andorra is perfect for a weekend experience, but its mountain walls start to close in and the rental car will get restless for any time longer than that. And for God’s sake, don’t go during ski season.

Beau Miller holds a Master’s degree in International Relations from Syracuse University and is America’s greatest long-distance driver, having recently learned to drive manual, at 29 years young, on the way to Andorra. This is his third article for GoMad Nomad. His previous dispatches have been from Nepal and Oman.

Entering Andorra le Vella, Andorra's capital.

The view from an alleyway in the bustling metropolis of Canillo, Andorra

Stopping to enjoy the great Andorran past-time- hitting snowballs with a stick

Bungalows often include wifi, kitchen, and showers

Andorra's reduction in defense spending has allowed it to increase its budget for the arts

All the comforts of home...

By Stephen Bugno

Spain is known for its fierce regionalism, which makes traveling to each corner of the country a very different and interesting experience. It’s also known for its food culture, rich history, and fine climate. One warning about Spain: Be careful, because you might end up liking it so much that you don’t leave.

Galicia

The Green Countryside of Galicia.

Galicia is a remote and weathered region in the northwest of Spain. I walked through Galicia for a couple weeks en route to Santiago de Compostela, home to the cathedral that signifies an end for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, or Way of Saint James pilgrimage. Galicia is so green that it reminds me of Ireland. Although the relation is not only superficial; ancient Celts actually settled the region. Galicia is a territory with a people proud of their distinct language, culture, and cuisine. It is also one of the most underrated regions of Spain, with some of the best seafood in the world and a lesser-visited coastline.

Basque Country

San Sebastian's beach

On the coast of the Bay of Biscay in northern Spain, bordering France, is Basque Country. Its fierce regionalism has led to violence in the past, but that’s not what this region should be known for. Its language is an anomaly, unrelated to any of those surrounding it, known as a language isolate. San Sebastian, the queen of Basque resorts, is a universally favorite city in Spain. Nearby Bilbao is home to the iconic Guggenheim museum, and some good surfing. In either city, you can’t go wrong with a night out on the town, sampling the exquisite pintxos (Basque tapas).

Catalonia

Catalonia, in the northeast of Spain, borders France as well. Like other regions, it has its own language, Catalan. Visitors flock to self-confident and progressive Barcelona: the art, style, and food capital of Spain. In fact, Anthony Bourdain has called Catalonia the world’s new premier food destination (yes, even better than France). In addition to great beaches on the Costa Brava, Catalonia is home to the Dali Triangle, the architecture of Gaudi, as well as some of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain.

Madrid

Boating in Madrid's Park del Retiro

I lived in Madrid for almost a year and absolutely loved it. The lifestyle of the madrileños sucks outsiders in and keeps them. Hanging out at the traditional cafes and bars around the city, shopping in the crammed Rastro flee market, and a Sunday stroll through the Parque del Retiro should all be part of your visit. If it’s art you like, Madrid is home to three world-class art museums: the Prado, Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza.

Balearic Islands

Four main islands make up the Balearic chain: Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and Formentera. For the last 30 or so years, the reputation of these Islands has led many German, English, and Scandinavians booking repeated flights to Ibiza. Ibiza is the dance-until-dawn and gay-friendly capital of Europe. The best of the best DJs are flown in from all corners of the continent. Most revelers sleep their hangovers off the following day on any of the fine beaches under nearly-always perfect skies. The Balearic Islands may be mass tourism destinations, but if you look carefully, there are unspoiled and picturesque old-world towns on the island. Consider agro-tourism or exploring the countryside by car or scooter.

Andalusia

A village in Andalusia.

Comprising the southern part of Spain, Andalusia is the most quintessentially Spanish region: a land of bullfighting, flamenco, sherry, and ruined castles. Great cities like Seville, with its towering cathedral and Semana Santa festival; and Granada and Cordoba with their unforgettable Moorish architecture and history. After-all, this land was occupied by Muslims for 700 years. From trekking in Sierra Nevada to the beaches of the famed Costa del Sol, it would almost be criminal to visit Spain without stopping here.  

Getting a more in-depth look into Spain

For a closer look at Spain, its people, and cultures, consider Volunteering with Pueblo Ingles or VaughanTown.

If you’re thinking about teaching English in Spain, read Teaching English in Madrid.

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

by luis_psrng

 Oktoberfest has long become an international tourist destination. And while most of the Munich natives certainly speak some English, the festival still retains its traditional Bavarian origins. (To read more about that, check out my article on the history of the Oktoberfest.) When celebrating its 200-year anniversary in 2010, the Oktoberfest in Munich included a special section devoted to showcasing its history. Because this special was such a success, it will be included again this year. To come prepared, why not learn a few Bavarian words and phrases before you arrive? Here are 10 essentials:

 1. Bier (beer)

To many, Oktoberfest is synonymous with beer festival. Ordering beer is easy, and the fact that “bier” in German is pronounced the same as in English makes it even easier. Just be sure you control how much of it you order!

2. Prost (cheers)

In many of the tents, you will hear the notorious song “Ein Prosit, ein Prosit…” Prost means cheers in Bavarian, so before you drink that Mass Bier (1L beer), be sure to say that.

3. Brez’n (pretzel)

Bavarian pretzels in no way compare to the fake version that is sold on the streets of New York, for example. In fact, upon taking some Munich natives to the Big Apple, they were appalled at the pretzel that is sold at food trucks here; “it tastes like plastic, they said.” The true Bavarian version, on the other hand, is soft and made of fresh dough. You can get them in different sizes and they are a great way to assure that all that beer doesn’t get to your stomach so quickly.

4. Hendl (grilled chicken)

Hendl at Oktoberfest are either ordered as a half or a whole. The most typical is to get Hendl with Pommes, which means French fries.

5. Knöd’l (dumplings)

Bavarian dumplings have nothing in common with the Asian version. The German ones can come in different variations. For example, you can get Semmelknödel, which means dumplings made of bread (spices are added, too, but they tend to be very mild). Kartoffelknödel, on the other hand, are made of potatoes. Usually, they will be accompanied by a creamy sauce.

6. Wies’n (Bavarian word for Oktoberfest)

This word refers to the Theresienwiese, which is the festival ground where the Oktoberfest in Munich is held. The name goes back to the fact that in 1810, the Oktoberfest was initiated as part of the royal wedding celebration of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese. Her name still resonates in the tradition of the Oktoberfest today and is also the name of the subway stop where people get off to go to the festival.

7. Ox’n (meat from the ox)

In addition to chicken, there are hundreds of whole oxen being prepared for Oktoberfest. The place to get this kind of meat is at the Ochsenbraterei, literally meaning the place where the oxen are roasted.

8. An Guad’n (Bon Appétit in Bavarian)

So you’ve already learned how to say “Prost,” which applies to cheers for drinking. To cheer on the eating, An Guad’n will help you out.

9. Apfelshorle (apple juice mixed with sparkling water)

Sure, beer is the standard. But for those who don’t want to get drunk (or vary things up a bit), you can order this drink: apple juice mixed with sparkling water. It’s a great refresher after going on all those rollercoasters and bumpy rides.

10. Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick)

Those who want to take a break from meat (or don’t eat it in the first place), can opt for grilled fish on a stick. The best place to get these is at the Fischer Vroni tent.

An Guad’n!!

For more on German foods, read: Top 10 German Foods

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com.

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

Ireland is a land of castles. While there are some places where you will have to shell out quite some money to be able to stay the night, others open their doors to everyone for a touristic visit. Here is a selection of five castles worth visiting on your next trip to Ireland:

 Bunratty Castle

The construction of Bunratty Castle dates back to 1425, and it was restored to its medieval splendor in 1954. It is known for being the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. On your visit, you will see 15^th and 16^th century furniture, tapestries and other art works of the times. Today, the castle grounds moreover include a folk park that spreads out at the foot of the massive walls. Note that the Castle closes each day at 4 p.m. to prepare for the Medieval Banquet. For more information on planning your visit, click here.

Blarney Castle

Located in County Cork, Blarney Castle is notorious for the Blarney Stone. Legend has it that this stone bestows the gift of eloquence and Irish charm. Tourists have been trekking to the Castle for years to kiss the blarney stone.

The Castle itself was constructed around 1446 for the MacCarthy Chieftains of Munster. However, it is believed that a settlement was established here in this area already in the 10^th century. The Castle grounds come with spectacular gardens, including the Druids Altar, the Witches Kitchen and the Wishing Stairs. To plan your very own visit (and kiss) click here.

Ballygally Castle

In “The World’s Most Haunted Places,” Jeff Belanger describes Ballygally Castle as “a living postcard—a charming, almost teal-colored Scottish baronial castle overlooking the sea in Northern Ireland.” Located in the village of Ballygally in Northern Ireland, the Castle is known to be one of the most haunted places in the province.

The castle overlooks the Ballygally Bay. Most recently, it has been converted into a hotel. In fact, it is the only 17^th century building still used as a residence in Northern Ireland. If you want to see ghosts, this is the place to go.

Ashford Castle

A rear shot of the oldest part of the Ashford Castle which is near Cong, Ireland in County Mayo. By jmenard48.

Another castle turned hotel. Ashford dates back to the 13^th century, and to be quite honest, it is difficult to capture the property in words. The following video provides a pretty good 360 degree overview. The entire history of the estate is also traced here. A highlight to consider doing on your visit: falconry. In addition to fishing, golf and just taking a walk on the spectacular grounds. Be sure to take a map – it is so big you might get lost!

Dromoland Castle

The best of the best. Dromoland Castle, like Ashford Castle, is hard to describe in words; this selection of videos will provide a better overview.

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com

By Avery Sumner

It’s May 15 and I’m still wearing socks and sweaters in the south of France. I’m living in the Pyrenees-Orientales department of France because it boasts the most days of sunshine in the whole country. I came here for the sun, the sea and the mountains—for the famed Mediterranean climate. But being a Floridian (most recently from the sub-tropics of South Florida) I’m finding this sock weather surprising. Compared to Northern France, yes, the Mediterranean climate is heavenly. But my toes have other points of reference and right now they’re pointing ever more southerly.

The problem is every place that pleases my toes tends to please loads of tourists as well. And my heart prefers quieter places. In Florida I lived in Everglades National Park where barefoot weather meets the wild calm of nature. Is it even possible to find such chakra balancing elements anywhere in Europe?

I’m not sure, but the Canary Islands of Spain keep presenting themselves to me. Tenerife in particular. I recently read that “Tenerife Island is probably one of the last European paradise destinations”. Representing the outermost region of the European Union, the volcanic archipelago of the Canaries rises out of the ocean just off the northwest coast of Africa near Morocco and the Western Sahara. My French mate stopped there on his way sailing across the Atlantic a few years ago and on a particularly dismal day this past winter he proposed spending a month or two on Tenerife next year.

But several British friends have also mentioned the island. Apparently it’s a popular holiday spot for Brits—not exactly the best sign for peace and tranquility.

On the other hand, I have a copy of the French magazine Terre Sauvage I bought last summer. The magazine covers those wild and natural corners of the planet far from beach resorts and night clubs. The Canaries are featured in this particular issue. Actually, it’s the immense night sky of the Canaries featured in the earthy mag. It claims the observatory on La Palma to be the second most important astronomical center in the world, next to Mauna Kea in Hawaii. The pristine darkness of the islands’ night sky utterly void of light pollution makes the region exceptional for stargazing. On Tenerife the observatory of Mount Teide is home to over a dozen telescopes. That kind of absence of city lights sounds pretty celestial to me.

Though Tenerife weather does draw sun-bathing, theme-park going tourists to its southern coastline, it’s also home to a national park and nature reserves with sub-tropical and temperate micro-climates that support an incredibly rich biodiversity of flora and fauna. Even more than tourists it seems, Tenerife has attracted crowds of botanists and researchers for centuries, among them Charles Darwin. A New York Times article reported that in an area on Tenerife called the Cruz del Carmen a new species or sub-species is discovered once every six days. A random handful of soil there can easily contain four or five endemic species of insects, reported the same article.

But the most famous natural attraction on the isle is Mount Teide, or Pico del Teide. The highest peak in Spain, this active volcano is the third largest in the world when measured from its base. It presides over 18,900 hectares of protected land of the Teide National Park (Parque Nacional del Teide), an UNESCO World Heritage site. There are approximately 21 posted trails leading to the peak. A free permit issued by the park is required for the last 200 meters.

Tenerife is also rich with less-traveled paths and lesser-known views beyond Mount Teide. Depending on time constraints and levels of expertise one can traverse diverse ecosystems ranging from dry scrublands to rich green fields. With dramatic lunar landscapes and virgin laurel woodlands Tenerife’s backcountry is nothing short of spectacular. Do a little planning and camping permits can be gotten from the Tenerife Cabildo (Island Council) making opportunities to lose oneself in a mysterious volcanic terrain endless.

Photo by Paul Valk

Okay, I think there’s room enough on Tenerife to find the quiet sanctuary of nature my heart seeks. But I’m still worried about my toes. Yeah, Tenerife’s been dubbed the island of eternal spring, but what exactly does that mean? Whose idea of spring are we talking about here? Hopefully not the same perspective that deems the Mediterranean climate so heavenly.

Tourist information sources show year round average temps on Tenerife ranging from 20ºC/68ºF to 30ºC/86ºF. They also say Tenerife’s weather has the lowest temperature difference between summer and winter than any other place in the world thanks to the trade winds. But on the island itself the variety of weather is broad. On Mount Teide cold winds and snow are winter regularities. However on these same winter days there’s enough warmth for sunbathers to bask on Tenerife beaches, so they claim.

All I really want to know is if, and how long, I’d have to wear socks down there. Official weather charts show January and February as the coldest months with average lows of 15ºC/59ºF. Average highs for those same months are 20ºC/69ºF.

My toes can handle that. When are we going?

Avery Sumner lives in Southern France where the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean. When she travels she looks for the natural and simple.

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

In midst of the Alps, cows graze peacefully on evergreen fields. Farmers breathe in the crisp mountain air as they herd their sheep to be fed. This is Switzerland. A paradise not only of political neutrality, but also of locally grown foods. If anything is imported, it’s only the highest quality. Got your mouth watering? Take a look at the following specialties, and you’ll be sure to head to Switzerland soon.

Käsefondue (cheese fondue)

Come hungry, because a cheese fondue is not a small snack. Best consumed in a group, the Käsefondue involves dipping bread and vegetables in a large, heated pot filled with cheese. The true Swiss will first drench the bread in Kirschwasser, a cherry-based alcoholic beverage. Be careful though, you can get drunk very fast…

Raclette

Another treat based on melted cheese, the raclette is also interactive. Small pans are filled with potatoes and vegetables, with cheese on top. The latter slowly melts as the pans are heated. It’s great because each person can choose exactly what they want, and how much. Although it’s sure to be a lot, since it’s absolutely delicious!

Älplermagronen

"Älplermagronen" by Isabel Eva Bohrer

Are we noticing an obsession with cheese? Yes; it is the local specialty after all. This dish is the Swiss reply to “mac and cheese”: pasta topped with potatoes and applesauce. Available at countless mountain huts for carb-loading hikers, it’s sure to give you an energy boost.

Silserli

Taking a long trek and don’t have a kitchen on the way? Don’t despair, just take a silserli with you. The freshly baked bread made of pretzel dough tastes great on its own!

Zürcher Geschnetzeltes

Enough cheese and bread. With this treat from Zurich, you’ll finally get some meat on the table. Typically prepared with veal, Zürcher Geschnetzeltes is made of thin strips of meat, covered in a creamy sauce which sometimes contains mushrooms.

Rösti

The perfect accompaniment for Zürcher Geschnetzeltes. Rösti are roughly grated potatoes, fried in either butter or some other source of fat. Often served with fried eggs, they’re a great option for vegetarians, too!

Birchermüsli

What a way to start the day. This Swiss cereal is packed with oats, nuts, and dried fruit, all mixed together with tasty yogurt. Though typical for breakfast, it can be enjoyed at any time of the day. Just make sure you a get the fresh version; the already mixed supermarket kind just doesn’t do it justice.

Rivella

Ok, it’s a beverage not a dish. But the mixture of apple juice and sparkling water is so integral to Swiss eateries that it is worth mentioning here. With its refreshing taste, it’s the ideal drink after a day of skiing in the Alps.

Meringues

Finally, we’ve reached dessert. Prepared by beating egg-whites, meringues are wonderfully light and sugary. It’s almost as if you were nourishing yourself on air, except yummier! 

Chocolate, in any imaginable shape or form

Swiss chocolate by Isabel Eva Bohrer

Whether a simple bar or a box of exquisite pralines, Swiss chocolate is famous for being the crème de la crème. If you’ve started your trip with a cheese fondue, end it with a chocolate one. The perfect finish to a truly Swiss culinary tour!

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com.

By Stephen Bugno

What to Eat When You’re Visiting Spain and Where to Find It

Food is definitely one of the highlights of Spain and the regional diversity only makes criss-crossing the country a real culinary pleasure. There are certain specialties that you shouldn’t miss while visiting. From the dry, distinctively Spanish region of Andalucía to green hills and rugged coastline of Galicia, here are my top ten favorite foods from Spain:

Jamon Serrano

Jamon is dry cured ham, thinly sliced from the bone. The pure bread Iberian pig, cerdo iberico, spends a lifetime freely roaming the countryside eating fallen acorns to produce the first-rate, highly sought after variety which can be extremely expensive. Where: Extremadura, in southwestern Spain. The town of Monesterio has a Dia del Jamon (Jamon Day) every year during the first week of September.

Paella

The rice-based dish synonymous with Spanish cuisine often includes some combination of mussels, shrimp, chicken, rabbit, green beans, butter beans, snails, artichokes, and a subtle saffron taste. Although genuine paella Velenciana doesn’t mix meat and fish. Try it in the province of Valencia, specifically in the towns of Perellonet or El Palmar.

Tortilla Español

The Spanish omelet is made from simple ingredients: potatoes, onions, and eggs, prepared on the stovetop. The perfect light meal or snack anytime of day. Where to eat it: any bar in Spain.

Pulpo a la Gallega

Galician Octopus is traditionally cooked in a big copper vat and served on a wooden plate sprinkled with salt and drizzled with olive oil. Find pulpo anywhere in the seafood-rich region of Galicia, in northwest Spain. Wash it down with the young, fresh, cloudy white wine: Ribeiro, a local favorite.

Chorizo

Chorizo is a flavorful and sometimes spicy pork sausage that Spain takes seriously. It gets its deep red color from dried smoked red peppers. Chorizo is eaten everywhere across Spain, but if you get a chance, try it in Cantimpalos, in the province of Segovia, where it is especially good and cured with paprika.

Gazpacho

Served chilled, gazpacho is a refreshing soup from the southern region of Andalucía made with tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, oil, vinegar, garlic, and salt. Sample it throughout the region because recipes differ within Andalucía.

Pimentos de Padron

Small, shallow-fried green peppers served whole and sprinkled with sea salt.  Where to eat them: ideally in Padron, but anywhere in Galicia in the summer is a fine place to try them. If you’ve just finished walking the Camino de Santiago, enjoy pimentos de Padron in Santiago de Compostela. ¡Ten Quidado—one in ten is supposedly hot!

Churros

Dunk these ribbed fried dough rings in coffee for a Spanish breakfast. Or many consider them best eaten with thick, rich chocolate in the morning after a long night of drinking and dancing at the clubs. Where: anywhere in Spain, preferably at a churraria.

Empanada

Although many varieties of empanada can be found throughout South and Central America, this stuffed pastry is originally from Galicia. The Galician variety is usually prepared with cod, chicken, or some variety of shellfish, and baked into a pie with peppers and onions. Find empanada anywhere in Galicia.

Sopa de Ajo

Originally a poor person’s soup, you can now find sopa de ajo in finer restaurants. Made from frying bread in lots of garlic and sprinkled with paprika, the stock is added and complemented with beaten eggs. Where to try it: the region of Castilla.

Stephen Bugno attended both Pueblo Ingles and Vaughn Town in the summer of 2008 and remained in Spain for another nine months teaching English. For more than a decade he has worked, volunteered, and traveled his way around the world. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

I did not expect to see so much street art in Portugal. Especially in Porto, I was impressed with the sheer volume of exciting, creative, and intellectual graffiti. Granted, much of it is stenciling, either Bansky or Bansky inspired, but still, it’s fun to look at and sometimes thought provoking.

For four days, I walked all over Porto—in the daytime, at night, with a camera, with open eyes. There is something quite elegant and yet at the same time rundown about Porto’s city center. It is without a doubt my favorite European city for its size. If I returned again, I would do the same, walk and walk again—stop for coffees, join the massive street gatherings of youth in the late evening and stay out until dawn. Drink plenty of Super Bock. Soak up every bit of this city.

So here is a graffiti tour of Portugal’s most beautiful city:

Text and photos by: Stephen Bugno

Have you been to Porto? Know of any other cities with good street art? Comment below.

Dear GoMad Nomad,

Have you ever been to Iceland, or would ever consider making the trip?  My wife listened to the audio book Frost on my Moustache: The Arctic Exploits of a Lord and a Loafer and ever since has been hooked! How much money do we need to save?  How long would you recommend we take to get a good feel for the country, etc.?

-Bill in Pennsylvania

Landmannalaugar Iceland

Dear Bill,

I have never been to Iceland, but from what I hear and read it is a fantastic place to travel—lots  of really cool geologic features, hot springs, volcanoes, great scenery, hiking, ice-climbing, glacier hiking.

How much

Unfortunately, Iceland is notorious for being a very expensive place to visit. But since the stock market crash of 2008, prices have become a little more reasonable for travelers.

Iceland might be the place to do some camping, RVing, or try couchsurfing, hitchhiking, not drinking alcohol, and staying in hostels or sleeping bag accommodation in guest houses and farm houses. Also try self-contained cabins if you’re traveling in a group.

As far as an exact number for your budget, it all depends on your travel style. Lonely Planet suggests the bus riding/camping/self-catering budget traveler could scrape by on $25 US per day. Throw in some comforts like staying at an average hotel, eating out, and driving your own car, you could spend $215 per day. So that leaves a wide spectrum in between depending on your needs and your approach to travel.

How long

As far as time, I wouldn’t go for less than two weeks. It’s a relatively small island, but it’s just more economical and greener to spend more time in a place you have flown to. If you don’t have the time to make a trip exclusively to Iceland, consider stopping on your way to Europe. I know Iceland Air allows free stopovers. Check out this article on How to Make the Most Out of Your Stopover in Iceland.

When to Go

Time of year is important.  High Season is June to August, when the sun only sets briefly each night. During the March and September equinoxes, days and nights are about equal in length. If you go in December, it’s almost 20 hours of darkness.

Early or late winter, however, can be a surprisingly good time to visit. In late January, daylight lasts from about 10am to 5pm, and expenses can be 40% lower during this off-season. And although the snow covered landscape can be beautiful at this time, not all the sites are accessible in the winter. Flights may be cheaper in the winter too.

Get a Guidebook

Iceland (Lonely Planet Country Guide) The Rough Guide to Iceland 4 (Rough Guides) Iceland (Bradt Travel Guide)

-Stephen

Photo credit: Michel Osmont

This futuristic set of buildings is Valencia, Spain’s stunning Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, or City of Arts and Sciences. Designed by local architects Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela, the project symbolizes the city government’s vision to establish itself as a principal tourist destination.

On the left is the Queen Sofia Palace of the Arts, the opera house which opened in 2005. To the right front of that is Hemisfèric, an Imax Cinema and Planetarium.

Text and photo by Stephen Bugno

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

Dear GoMad Nomad:

These could be your peppers drying in the sun

Currently I am living in Donostia, Basque Country, with my girlfriend. At the end of the month we are likely to move to Madrid, to hunker down over winter. My problem is that neither of us have more than a tourist visa, which entitles us to only three months in Spain. I remembered that you had lived in Madrid for some time, and wondered how you stayed in the country, whether by obtaining a visa, or making occasional runs for a border, to refresh your entry visa, or some other way. I am sick of borders, fronteras, imaginary lines dividing countries.

-Moving to Madrid

And another letter:

Dear GoMad Nomad,

I am looking into teaching English in Spain, but I will just have a tourist visa so I need to do it under the table.  I have an online TEFL certificate but no teaching experience.  Do you know of any good ways of breaking into that with my limitations?

-In new territory

Dear Moving to Madrid and In New Territory:

Unfortunately you can’t just leave the country (or the EU or the Shengen zone) and return immediately. You actually need to leave for three months, because you are permitted only 90 days in a 180-day period. This applies to those from the US, Canada, Australia, Brazil, Argentina, Japan, South Korea, among others.

Fortunately, the Spanish are pretty relaxed at Passport Control and they generally don’t check your stamps very closely. Many EU and Shengen countries don’t even stamp your passport, which may complicate things or may work to your advantage, allowing you to stay extra time.

But…sometime they do check. This is a very real risk. I have a very good friend who was denied entry into Spain because he had already used his 90 days in 180-day period in Shengen countries. He was held at the airport in Madrid for three days before being allowed to return home.

I know plenty of North Americans and Australians that were living and working in Spain illegally, having left and entered multiple times even though they were over their limit. But that was before the economic crises of 2008. Friends of mine that are still teaching English in Spain say the job availability is scarce, so it might not be an optimal time to move to Spain. Read this article for more on teaching English in Spain.

Working without a work visa

Although obviously illegal, there are plenty of US citizens working in Spain without a work permit. If you’re smart, the risk is minimal. Start contacting English schools while you’re still at home to see what kind of response you get. If you’re determined to move to Spain anyhow, just do it. If you can’t find work at a private language academy, you can try to find private tutoring gigs. They usually pay 15-25 Euro per hour.

Getting an extension

I am under the impression that you can apply for an extension to add to your 90-day visa free period. But, as of 2011, this is going to require an apostilled criminal record check from your home country. Go to your local police station in Spain to apply.

Getting a work visa

To get a work visa for Spain, you have to be in your home country to complete the paperwork and take it to a Spanish embassy or consulate. Contact Spanish schools while you’re still in your home country and try and secure a job in May or June in order in order to start work at the beginning of the school year with all the official documents in hand.

The debate continues…

There is quite a debate over all this on different forums on the web. I have read and heard stories that reveal conflicting reports to all the information I just gave you. Please feel free to comment with your personal experience or any information you might have that coincides or conflicts with my views.

Sincerely,

Stephen

The Öresund Bridge connects Denmark and Sweden, crossing from Copenhagen to Malmo to form the longest road and rail bridge in Europe. You can enjoy this view from the Swedish side in Malmo by walking along Western Harbor which is famous for being a 100% renewable energy neighborhood. It takes only 35 minutes to cross the bridge by train, enjoying views of the strait with numerous wind turbines that are lined up like a formation of soldiers.

Text and photo by Nell Rakhimova

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

Preikestolen: Preacher’s Pulpit, Norway

Everybody is scared and everybody tries to have a look down at least once. Preikestolen or Prekestolen is a massive cliff 1982 feet (604 meters) located in southern part of Norway. Hiking to Preikestolen is not one of the easiest things to do, however if you like walking through virgin forests with crystal clear streams, you will enjoy it. From the top you can see the most famous Norwegian attractions – fiords. This view of huge ancient rocks falling into quiet water, where there are no signs of civilization is breathtaking. It was really frightening to look down to the alluring deep dark blue water but after I got used to such heights, I was sitting on the edge of the cliff and enjoying the most gorgeous view.

Text and photos by Nell Rakhimova

We needed to return our rented moto by 4pm, so we decided to visit Santorini’s white sand beach before leaving the island. However, there were some road signs that just didn’t make sense and we decided to follow any sign that said beach. To our delight, we found ourselves at the red sand beach. We had to park the moto and walk about 10 minutes (over red rocks and stones), but it was well worth it. The blue water and deep red sand was such an unexpected surprise! It was hard to leave the beautiful spot, but we did return the moto and caught our flight away from paradise and back to reality.

Text and photo by Cara Metell

Festa de São João, One of Europe’s Biggest Street Festivals

By Stephen Bugno

To experience Portugal at its most uninhibited, untamed and inebriated, don’t miss Porto’s massive, traditional annual Feast of St. John’s Eve.

For one night every year, the city of Porto, Portugal goes absolutely wild. The celebration—Festa de São João—or Feast of St. John’s Eve, takes place on the evening of June 23rd and goes to the daylight hours of the 24th. On this night, seemingly the entire population comes to the city center and surrounding neighborhoods to honor John the Baptist and partake in the evening’s numerous traditions.

Although relatively unknown outside Portugal, Festa de São João is undoubtedly one of Europe’s biggest street celebrations. No matter their economic standing, age, or race, Porto’s citizens come out as equals to generate an unrivaled atmosphere that erupts in the city’s public plazas, squeezes through the steep, narrow, cobbled streets, and surges down to the river.

Try the Food

Throughout the evening, folks stroll through the packed streets pausing at carnival games, shop-stalls, and performance stages. Perhaps the most looked-forward to pastime is sampling the festival’s food: fried dough such as farturas and churros and pork sandwiches called bifanas. However, these are all second to Sardines—grilled and salted to perfection. Wash everything down with a glass of wine or beer—beverages not difficult to find at any bar, sidewalk stand, or vender the whole night.

Traditions

Oddly enough, one of the stranger traditions of the festival is the hitting of each other over the head with plastic hammers that squeak; or if you prefer, dangling a leek for the initiated to smell. Where these traditions comes from, no one has an answer.

At midnight, all eyes temporarily halt to view to the huge fireworks display over the river Douro with the graceful Ponte Dom Luis I silhouetted in the background. Free concerts, complemented by spontaneous street dancing, continue simultaneously in various parts of the city. At some point during all this commotion, many stop to set off candle-powered, paper hot-air balloons into the night. At any given moment, a glance to the sky over the river will yield views dotted with the beautiful glowing balloons.

The Walk to the Beach

Lighting the hot air ballon

Traditionally, festival-goers slowly make their way by foot along the river several miles out to the beaches at the edge of Porto where a parallel, slightly alternative São João party is taking place. Here, out past the modern suburbs, young people continue dancing to the techno thump until well after sunrise.

The Portuguese like to say that “Lisbon plays, Braga prays and Porto works,” but on the night of Festa de São João, it is Porto that celebrates.

Stephen Bugno took part in the São João Festival in June of 2008 when he visited from neighboring Spain. For more than a decade he has worked, volunteered, and traveled his way around the world. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com.

Two Programs that Offer English-Speaking Volunteers Full Room and Board

By Stephen Bugno

An evening of jamon and vino tinto at Pueblo Ingles

I’m almost as exhausted as they are, but somehow they keep going. This is supposed to be easy for me, right? English is my native language.

They sun is about to set in our small “English Village” but the Spaniards stay positive, excited, and focused despite the long day. We are far from the urban expanse of Madrid, four hours by bus in the sparsely populated region of Extremadura. We are a group of English speakers volunteering at Pueblo Ingles for a week.

Free Room and Board for Speaking English?

That’s right. At either Pueblo Ingles or Vaughan Town, (two different companies that run similar English immersion programs for Spaniards) volunteering as an Anglo-speaker gets you a free week in rural Spain. But it’s much more than that. It’s a great opportunity to meet and form close relationships with Spanish people in a surprisingly short period of time.

It’s also a great way to extend your travels, add something different to your usual holiday, or just save some money on your expensive European vacation. But most of all, it’s an opportunity to do something out of the ordinary in our modern age of fast-paced living and working and just sit down and have a conversation. Well…have lots of conversations, actually.

The Model

in the village of La Alberca

So here’s the concept: pair about 20 Spaniards with 20 native English speakers in a village in rural Spain. Live together, eat together, and speak together about 14 hours a day. It’s exhausting, yes, but universal agreement in the success among the much-improved English of the Spaniards and the satisfaction of happily enriched Anglos.

The core of the program is the one-to-one sessions. During these 50-minute blocks, pairs have the opportunity to stretch past simple and superficial chats. You can sit and drink coffee or go for slow walks. After only five full days, it’s remarkable how open and close everyone becomes, not only with the Spaniards, but even with the other English speakers which come from a diverse range of countries including the U.K., Ireland, Canada, the U.S., Australia, and New Zealand just to name a few.

Besides the one-to-ones, pairs sometimes join up to form groups of four to discuss issues or solve mock problems. In addition, an hour a day is devoted to various entertainments. There’s even a special program one of the nights.

Requirements for Volunteers

Spaniards at Pueblo Ingles

Basically, Anglo volunteers need to be native speakers and have enough life experiences to keep them talking for up to 14 hours per day. They must also pledge that not a word of Spanish will be spoken by them the entire week; a promise that is taken seriously. An English-only environment is crucial to the success of the program.

Volunteers are offered a nice, private room and three meals a day in a beautiful rural setting in the Spanish countryside. Volunteers are required to take care of their own travel expenses to and from Spain and for accommodation before and after the program. Pueblo Ingles runs a seven-day course and Vaughan Town a five-day.

For More Information

Further information and applications can be found and filled out on-line at the VaughanTown or Pueblo Ingles websites. Programs run year round but most are available from June to September.

Stephen Bugno attended both Pueblo Ingles and Vaughn Town in the summer of 2008 and remained in Spain for another nine months teaching English. For more than a decade he has worked, volunteered, and traveled his way around the world. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com