Dear GoMad Nomad,

I am wondering if you can advise me on good places to visit in China, off the beaten path, where the prices are low, the people are friendly, the women are beautiful, and the scenery is breathtaking.

Sincerely,

Symour in Pasaic

Dear Symour,

Great timing on this one—I’m in the middle of three-month trip to China. On this trip I’ve stuck to Hong Kong/Macau, Guangxi Province (in the south), and Yunnan and Sichuan Province (in the Southwest) so my knowledge doesn’t go too far beyond that.

As a general rule, China is less expensive in the south and southwest and pricier in the north and east. So I’m going to steer you towards Guangxi, Yunnan and Sichuan.

There are very few foreigners traveling through China, so much of the time you’ll feel like you’re off-the-beaten-path. But watch out for the Chinese tourists—Lijiang, for example is inundated with masses from throughout China. My advice would be to spend as little time there as possible.

The backpacker trail in Yunnan (Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-la) is popular, but for good reason—it is a fantastic place to travel. (But as I said earlier, there are few western tourists). Breathtaking scenery—check! Friendly people—check! And as far as the beauty of the people—I’ll let you decide that for yourself.

These aren’t majority Han Chinese in much of Yunnan—but many of China’s ethnic minorities. This makes travel here more culturally diverse and interesting due to the individual dress, food, and customs of each nationality.

As far as expenses, I just published What it costs: Traveling in Yunnan Province.

After Yunnan Province, I headed up to Sichuan Province mainly for three reasons—tea houses, Giant Pandas, and food. The costs of travel in Sichuan are nearly the same as in Yunnan. There is distinct Sichuanese cuisine, incredible landscapes, and the chance to witness Tibetan culture without the hassle and expense of going to Tibet. The western half of Sichuan is situated high in the Tibetan Plateau and many of the towns there are ethnically Tibetan.

There are plenty of historic towns in Sichuan as well and the most laid-back of China’s huge cities—Chengdu (home of the Pandas).

The following posts might inspire you:

• The astounding Tiger Leaping Gorge
• Yuanyang Rice Terraces of Yunnan Province
• The 17-Arched Twin Dragon Bridge of Jianshui (Yunnan Province)
• The scenery surrounding the Li River near Yangshuo (Guangxi Province)
• A great local market near Dali, Yunnan.
• Tasting Tea in Kunming video

Additionally I’ve tagged my China posts on GoMad Nomad #China and Bohemian Traveler #China

Happy Travels! Let us know when you make it to China!

Sincerely,

Stephen

It’s impossible to give a report of traveler’s expenses for China as a whole because prices differ extensively from region to region. So for this post, I’m going to focus on Yunnan Province, a destination in which I spent over a month traveling. It is a fascinating region with spectacular landscapes and diverse peoples. It’s popular with travelers, but there are still places to get off the beaten track if desired.

Despite high prices in China’s larger cities, as well as in the provinces of north and east China, Yunnan is still an incredible travel bargain.

I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia and what it costs to travel in Laos.  I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be quite helpful during the planning stages.

Keep in mind $1 US = 6.3 Chinese Yuan (CYN) (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Yunnan Province:

A day’s expenses in Yunnan:

Breakfast of noodle soup with chicken:  6 CYN   ($ .95 US)

8 km taxi ride to Cangshan trail head:  15 CYN  ($ 2.38 US)

Entrance fee to the Park area:  30 CYN ($ 4.76 US)

(Avoided a 80 CYN ($12.70US) Cable Car fee by hiking)

Lunch: bread, fruit, snacks bought from supermarket: 14 CYN   ($ 2.22 US)

Dinner: twice cooked pork, bok choy, Kung Pao chicken, and rice: (52 CYN for two) 26 CYN ($4.12 US)

Dali Beer  (518ml): 5 CYN ($ .79  US)

Accommodation in Dali: 80 CYN (40 CYN pp if shared) ($ 6.35 US)

 

Total:   136 CYN       ($21.58  US )

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$25 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler and can share a room. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $20 or less per day. Consider that costs in Sichuan, Guangxi, and Guizhou are comparable to Yunnan.

Travelers can eat well in China. For breakfast, noodle soup or dumplings are usually about 6 CYN. In an informal restaurant or café, vegetable dishes usually run about 10 CYN and meat dishes nearly double. They are normally shared. With rice and tea, two can eat well for less than 20 CYN apiece. Nicer restaurants or foreigner-aimed cafés might be double that price.

Transportation costs are as follows: For a 15-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 203 CYN ($33.22 US). That’s what it cost us from Jinghong to Xiaguan (Dali new city). City buses are cheap: usually between 1 and 2 CYN and taxis are not too expensive at about 1 to 2 CYN per kilometer. As a general rule, trains are cheaper than sleeper buses (unless you ride soft sleeper class in the train or are travelling on the super-fast trains). An 18-hour train journey from Guilin to Kunming cost us 175 CYN in hard sleeper class. Read why that trip was a forgettable experience in: Night Train to Kunming. 

Accommodation is a good bargain in Yunnan. It pays to travel with a partner here—sharing the cost of a room. You can normally get a decent double room for less than 100 CYN ($15.87 US). We’ve paid as little as 40 CYN before, but those are not places I would recommend staying. Hostel beds usually run between 25 and 35 CYN ($4—$5.55 US)and are generally only available in the places popular with travelers: Jinghong, Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, and Shangri-la.

To rent bicycles, we paid 10 CYN for the whole day, but saw other shops renting better quality bikes for 35 CYN and up.

A warning about Entrance fees

Be forewarned that entrance fees to sights are outrageously high in comparison to the rest of the costs associated with traveling in Yunnan. Read why I had to see the Three Pagodas in Dali from outside the gate. I’ve seen ticket prices for a temple at 60 CYN ($9.50 US) and larger, more important sites costing 100 CYN, 150 CYN, or more! Unfortunately, we had to pass on more than one attraction because of cost.

China is a challenging place to travel as a foreign independent traveler. The extremely difficult spoken language makes it difficult to convey even the simplest ideas. Budget extra money for mistakes, e.g. booking a ticket to the wrong city or the wrong time, not knowing the correct prices. You may find yourself scribbling Chinese characters down on a note pad in order to communicate with people.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are common and reliable throughout China but expect both banks to take a bite out of your transaction. I prefer to take cash (and keep the money secure in my money belt at all times) a pay no exchange fee. I believe Bank of China is the only place to exchange currencies.

Making the most of your travels through Yunnan

Yunnan is a fascinating and inspiring place to travel. Costs are only going to go up and Chinese tourists are going to come in higher number in the future. New roads are being built, railways expanded, and cities enlarged.

My advice would be to get here soon. Although China is modernizing rapidly, the ethnic minorities of Yunnan seem to be holding on to their distinct customs and traditional way of life.

Have you traveled through Yunnan recently? How much did you spend per day?

By Gabi Logan

For travelers with itchy feet and empty pockets, WWOOFing sounds like the perfect opportunity. You can stay for free (with food included) amid such picturesque rural locations as olive orchards in Italy on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, rolling hills covered with lavender in the south of France, and blossoming cherry orchards in Japan.

“Sign me up!” you may be thinking, and while there are few drawbacks–you’ll even get a great tan–WWOOFing is not something you should rush into.

WWOOFing essentially means having your home, job, and social life all confined to one, often isolated, place and a handful of people. Wouldn’t you thoroughly check out the situation before accepting a job or signing a lease on an apartment?

Ask these key questions before confirming your WWOOFing stay to make sure that you–and your host–are happy with the arrangement.

What do you want to get out of the experience?

This is the only question to ask yourself and not your host, but it’s a biggie. Do you want to learn a skill like how to make cheese or garden organically or prepare artisanal marmalade? Or are you just looking for a new kind of work exchange experience or free room and board for a few months? 

The WWOOF organization is very staunch about the fact that WWOOFing is a knowledge and cultural exchange, not just a work for lodging quid pro quo. The President of the Italian WWOOF association, Claudio Pozzi, relayed to me that “if there is not sharing and exchange, the relationship becomes one of subordination, and that is the domain of other organizations. I want to reiterate that [for us] work is not a form of payment for hospitality.”

If you are not keen on learning something from your experience, whether it is specifically about organic farming or more generally about your host’s language, culture, or lifestyle, WWOOFing is probably not the best match for you. Look into a more general work exchange network like HelpX (http://www.helpx.net/).

What type of work goes on when you’ll be visiting?

Some WWOOF hosts are technically on top of things, providing a Google calendar outlining what type of work goes on each week or spelling out a rough overview of the main focus of each season in their WWOOF listing. Even in these cases, and especially when this information is not available, it’s worth discussing the planned projects with your host before confirming your stay. Otherwise you may find yourself sterilizing barrels and presses at a winery for a month instead of actually learning how to make wine, or bundling hay for three weeks instead of learning to make goat cheese as happened to a fellow WWOOFer.

When will you work?

Life in the countryside begins early. Whether there are animals that need to be fed, vegetables that need to be picked and packed for the market, or difficult labors to be finished before the midday heat sets in, you’ll probably be expected to start at 8 a.m. at the latest. Check on the typical morning hours with your host so you don’t find yourself in a place where work starts at 6 a.m. when you’ve never managed to get up before 8 or 9 in your entire life. Likewise, check which days your host expects you to work. A five day work week is not the norm on a farm, though religious households typically take a day off as a matter of course. Be clear up front if you expect to travel on the weekends.

How long will you be expected to work?

Before I embarked on my first WWOOFing experience, I was bewitched by a story in the Guardian in which the writer and her friend worked in the garden each morning, enjoyed a filling lunch made from local ingredients with their hosts, and set out each afternoon to explore the Tuscan countryside–even taking advantage of local thermal hot springs to nurse their sore muscles. Imagine my surprise when my host assumed I would work 8-10 hour days six or seven days a week! Setting (preferably in writing) an expected number of work hours before you arrive gives you something concrete to point to if you feel like you are being taken advantage of.

Will you be staying with other people?

For some travelers, meeting other adventurers is a big part of the experience. But if you’re not totally comfortable sharing close quarters with total strangers–a young female having to share a small room with a 40-year-old guy for two months for instance (true story)–ask your host about the situation in advance. They’ll probably already know who will be around during that time and may have a private or semi-private option if you ask far enough in advance. Watch how you ask though; I saw a WWOOF host laugh hysterically at the presumption of a couple who asked if they could stay in a private room.

Where will you stay?

As we covered in GoMad Nomad’s WWOOFing 101 guide, accommodations can vary from a private, self-service apartment with internet, full kitchen, tv and sitting areas to a tent or sparse caravan. Before you leave you’ll want to know whether you can expect to stay inside or not, and whether your electronics will be secure (or even rechargeable) during your stay.

Can you get into town (or to other towns) on your own?

If you are just looking for a rural experience, an isolated host is no problem. But being stuck in an inaccessible part of Tuscany with no way to explore Florence, Chianti, or the surrounding towns could put a big damper on your plans to use WWOOFing as a base to see the region. Ask your host about local transportation or other options for WWOOFers; some hosts have bikes available for their volunteers or will be happy to drive you to the nearest train station or show you around themselves.

The difference between a sob story WWOOFing experience and the time of your life can either come down to chance or preparation–it’s up to you if you want to take your chances with Lady Luck. 

It can be really difficult to get in touch with hosts, but asking you host these key questions before you confirm your stay ensures that you take control of your WWOOFing time and end up with the best situation for you.

Gabi Logan is a freelance blogger and travel writer. While renovating a Ligurian farmhouse on a recent WWOOFing trip, she finally found a way to put her Italian literature degree to use: bonding over Dante with her hosts.

10)  Ask GoMad Nomad: When to Visit Jeju Island, South Korea

9)  The Women Divers of Jeju

8 )  Photo of the Week: Cinque Terre

7)  My life in Baños del Inca, Cajamarca, Peru

6)  5 Spectacular Castles to Visit in Ireland

5)  Top 10 German Foods

4)  Pure New Zealand: 5 points of view

3)  Ask GoMad Nomad: India vs. Malaysia

2)  Photo of the Week: Koh Trong, Cambodia

1)  10 Things She Should Know Before Couchsurfing: Tips for Women

 My Picks: Favorite posts of 2011 that didn’t make the Top 10

Interview with a Female Hitchhiker

 
After hitchhiking all over South America, I had a few questions for contributing writer Sally Kay. Most importantly, I wanted to know what it was like to hitch alone as a female.
 

Going Jet-free: Alternatives to Flying

Contributing writer Avery Sumner gives us some of her best ways to avoid the environmentally destructive ways of air travel. Gets you thinking about some fun ways to get around.
 

Photo Essay: The Temples of Angkor

I was really happy with how my photos turned out from the Temples of Angkor in Cambodia. Although they can’t come close to conveying just how spectacular this site is, I tried to capture both the grandeur and the details.
 

Oman: Open roads, open arms, and open wallets

I love publishing articles about exciting places I’ve never been. In this one, Beau Miller takes us around a lesser-traveled country on the Arabian Peninsula: Oman.
 

Machu Picchu: Independently on the Cheap

In this informative article, Noel Lau lets us in on his secret of getting to Machu Picchu without spending a ton of cash, like your average tourist does.
 

5 Reasons Why Malls Rule Singapore

In this post, an admitted mall hater (myself) comes to terms with not only tolerating Singaporean malls, but embracing them.
 

Why Korean is the World’s Most Interesting Language

After visiting Korea for the second time, I felt obliged to tell the world a little about why written Korean is such an ingenious invention.
 

The Forgotten Capital of Siberia: Tobolsk

Nell Rakhimova takes us through her hometown of Tobolsk, which was once the capital of Siberia. Now it’s a forgotten and remote settlement with an interesting history.
 

Meet Jonas Studer, a primary school teacher from the small town of Brugg, Switzerland. For the last decade he has been crossing the world in search of the biggest, badest, and most exotic waves. It wasn’t until after years of traveling to surf that he began to “see things” other than waves. I caught up with him for an interview on a non-surfing leg of a trip to Malaysian Borneo.

GN: I’ve heard of Swiss hikers, mountaineers, ice-climbers…but surfers? No. How does a person from a mountainous land-locked country develop a life-long obsession with surfing?

JS: The first time I saw a proper wave was in my friend’s brother’s bedroom. We were young. It was a poster of Hawaii’s Back Door. We were sneaking into to his room to look for any evidence of girls that we could find. Instead of girls, we found surfing.

When I got a little older, I learned to surf “static” waves in rivers. At 14, we had raised money for a school trip to Barcelona. Due to a measles outbreak, the trip got cancelled. But some of us wanted to salvage our summer holiday. One of our classmate’s fathers invited us to his beach house in Brittany, France. We ended up using the money we raised for surfing lessons.

GN: Where are some of the destinations you’ve traveled to surf?

JS: In South America I surfed on practically every beach from Ecuador down to Santiago, Chile. In Central America I hit the waves in Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. Also, Indonesia, Australia (including Tasmania), New Zealand, and Hawaii. Closer to home, I’ve surfed in France, Portugal, the UK, Italy, and Morocco. And there’s one more place…but…I can’t tell you. It’s a secret.

GN: The question I always ask? Does your passion drive you to travel, or is traveling the driving force? In other words, do you travel to surf or surf to travel?

 JS: I definitely travel to surf. But traveling is a nice “side effect”. I thank my girlfriend Camilla for helping me to begin to see things when I travel. In fact, my first trip not to surf was to Bolivia and it was an incredible experience.

GN: Do you always travel with your surf board? How do you transport it?

JS: The surf board is a big pain to transport. My biggest board is 6 ft. 4 in. Some airlines charge extra for surfboards. British Airways does not allow them. You can find information like that on surfline.com.

GN: Has surfing brought you closer to locals or the local culture of the place you were traveling?

JS: For surfing, many times you have to trek to remote places. This has meant that I come in contact with a lot of locals and consequently have spent a lot of time hanging out with them. In Morocco, I took a car about two or three hours south of the touristy area to a predominately Berber region.

GN: How do you compare surfing in surfing cultures, say in Hawaii or Australia versus non-surfing cultures like Indonesia?

JS: In countries with a large percentage of surfers, everything seems to revolve around surfing, so much so, that it can be annoying. It attracts not only considerate surfers, but also the arrogant and selfish crowd.

In a place like Indonesia, you meet independent travelers that have come to surf and they tend to be much more open minded.

GN: Where are some surf destinations that are at the top of your list for the future? How about your favorite places to revisit?

JS: Indonesia is definitely on my list to revisit as is South America, predominately because of the combination of the waves and the culture.

I’d love to surf in Mozambique and Ireland at some point in the future.

GN: Thanks so much for the interview!  Keep in touch during your future surfing adventures!

Interview compiled by Stephen Bugno

I hadn’t visited Gettysburg since I went with the Boy Scouts back in the mid 90’s. Upon returning, I set off to find out if Gettysburg could be interesting for international visitors. The fact that the results of this war changed the course of world history cannot be debated. But that doesn’t mean that visiting the Gettysburg National Military Park is interesting to foreign visitors.

What happened at Gettysburg?

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania was the three-day scene of one of the bloodiest war battles the world has ever seen, not to mention the small town’s aftermath dealing with the thousands left wounded and dying in the fields around town. The battle was the biggest of the American Civil War and a great victory for the Union forces, thus proving to be a turning point in the war. But it could have easily been a Confederate victory if it weren’t for certain strategic blunders by the Southern generals.

Planning your time in Gettysburg

There’s plenty to see in Gettysburg. I recently spent two days there and reckon I could’ve stayed another. Most visitors, however, could be satisfied with two full days.

Start your tour at the Visitor’s Center. The Gettysburg National Military Park is run by the National Park Service, and the Visitor’s Center has been recently renovated. Don’t miss the outstanding video which helps give background information and explain the context of the battle in the War as well as explaining the troop movements and tactics used by the generals.

Next you’ll visit the battlefields. As you drive/cycle/walk around the serene battlefields, consider this: multiply every cannon you see by six, the actual number used during the fight. Every monument you see faces the enemy. This might appear odd in some places now, where a monument faces a wood. But for the past 12 years, the park service has been securing property and transforming the battlefield to exactly the way it was in July of 1863. This means cutting down trees, re-planting orchards, etc.

Another thing to remember, one that the townsfolk like to remind us of: the streets of Gettysburg were the battlefield too, not just the open fields surrounding town.

To get an idea of how the common citizens of Gettysburg endured the battle and aftermath, head to the Shriver House, an excellent little museum that shows us the inside of the Shriver family home as it was during July 1863. The guides tell us the personal story of how these individuals survived the three days of horrific fighting. The house-cum-museum was recommended to me and I’d agree it’s one of the best in town.

During the tour of the Shriver House, we were reminded of facts like the stench in town and how it lasted until November. When 70,000 horses and 160,000 men have no proper toilet facilities, that’s going to be hard on the nostrils. Not to mention the decomposition of 8,000 deceased soldiers and 5,000 dead horses. Townsfolk walked around town holding handkerchiefs with peppermint oil close to their nose.

Another quick but worthwhile stop is the David Wills House. Newly restored, it was the location where President Lincoln spent the night before giving “a few appropriate remarks”, which we know as his unforgettable Gettysburg Address.

American History or World History?

True this was the United States Civil War, but really it is world history. How important was the outcome of this war? If the United States had become two separate countries in the 19^th century, the world would undoubtedly be a very different place today. Remember, Gettysburg was the pivotal battle of the war. It changed the direction and momentum of the conflict as a whole.

Beyond the Military Park

Before leaving, check out the Eisenhower Historic Site. It’s a refreshing change of pace from all the intensive civil war-period information. And it goes along with our international theme. Who could be more international than Dwight D. Eisenhower? General of the allied forces in World War II, 34th President of the United States, and first supreme commander of NATO. He chose to retire in Gettysburg, the place where he first came for military training. Touring the Eisenhower farm is step back in time—to Mamie Eisenhower’s 1950’s and 60’s where the interior design was distinctly like my grandmother’s old house.

There are plenty of other small museums around town, and numerous ghost tours on offer. Just strolling through town is also pleasant. Noted by a plaque on the facade, you’re able to see which buildings were standing during the civil war era.

Practical details

Once well-connected with rail links and several roads, this was the reason Gettysburg was so desirable for the Confederate forces to capture. Today, although still well-connected by the same roads, Gettysburg remains off-the-beaten-path for most international visitors that are whizzing from New York to Philadelphia to Washington, DC. Those foreign travelers that do make it are mostly from Canada, the U.K., and Australia.

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania is located about two hours north of Washington, DC and two-and-a-half hours west of Philadelphia. Hotel and restaurants are plentiful; Gettysburg accommodates 3 million visitors each year.

By Beau Miller

“It’s governed by a council/ All good souls and wise./ They’ve only $5 for armaments/ And the rest for cakes and pies.” -Pete Seeger, “Andorra”

As your attorney, I advise you to rent a fuel-efficient automobile and drive at top speed to Andorra, but before you start packing the trunk with ether, Wild Turkey, and limes—stop. And think. Absinthe in Andorra is as abundant as the mountains, and at 3 Euro a liter for a bottle of the Green Fairy, you have more room for the Acapulco shirts and handguns. Now for the gory details. You have to go through France or Spain to get there. No public airports in Andorra, just curving stretches of finely-manicured highway being skillfully navigated upon by peace-loving Andorrans. Here I take the risk of coming off as some pretentious jackass, and I invite you to do the same. Because somewhere, in gritty Williamsburg, Austin, and Portland bars fair-skinned hands will tremble around their cans of PBR and filterless Luckies with borderline-uncontrollable desire as you utter one of the most powerful combination of words in modern English, “When I was in Andorra…”

Undoubtedly there will be those who, while able to identify the finer points of bicycle restoration, are unable to locate Andorra on a map or think it would be a great name for a band nobody’s heard of yet. Therefore you must arm yourself to the teeth with information. Skip the CIA Factbook because I’m supremely confident that they got their information from Pete Seeger’s 1960s love ballad about Andorra. However, recent developments must be taken into account in order to rightly appreciate the evolution of Andorran sagacity. Since the 1960s, it would appear that Andorra’s approximately $5 defense budget has been decreased. By approximately $5. It now delegates responsibility for the protection of its people, cakes, and pies to Spain and France. Though, the French, it would seem, are envious enough of their Catalonian neighbors and the unrivaled quality of their queso-induced siestas, that they keep a jab at Andorra holstered and at the ready for whenever mention of this tiny Pyrenean utopia is mentioned. “What does one do in Andorra?” the joke-teller will inquire. When met with a shrug of the shoulder or the oral imitation of the sounds of quick, satisfying flatulence (the preferred method by which many French exclaim their befuddlement), the joke-teller will go for the throat: “On dort!” In English, the punch-line translates to “One sleeps,” but in French it is a clever play on words, as it is pronounced exactly as locals pronounce the name of their nation in Catalan (Andorre). Yes, one sleeps, but only after one has had their fill of outdoor activity, paella, and strong drink.

Make for the campsite of your choice. In a country 176 square miles, it’s hard to get too far out of an Andorran city, but what it lacks in seclusion, it makes up for with its ability to provide a perfect cocktail of European caravanners. Anywhere is close to the capital city of Andorra la Vella and its tax-free shopping, and if not traveling solo, “bungalows” offer cheap accommodation, with separate bedrooms, shower, and a kitchen/absinthe-drinking arena perfect for discussing the social commentary of Celentano’s “Yuppi Du” (Youtube it). Though as the propietari of the Camping Pla confessed to me, the shower is not quite big enough to fit all your friends in at once. It can be hard to find a “cheap” plate of local grub, but you get what you pay for, and a plate of local paella and a bottle of house wine split with a camarada will leave one immensely satisfied. For keeping to a budget hit up the Andorra 2000, the bastard step-child of Walmart and a medieval public market, for its cheap and affordable selection of any type of alcohol under the sun, the legs of any standard livestock you might desire, and a tremendous array of cheeses. Nutella comes in buckets.
Initially drawn to Andorra as part of the search for either a setting for a setting for workplace team-building exercises or mass destruction, the US State Department, in 2003, estimated the average daily cost of a stay in Andorra to be $226. This raises significant questions. How could four exuberant young go-getters in a brand-spanking-new Ford Fiesta make the 1,500 km, round-trip journey from Lyon, France to the illustrious Camping Pla in Canillo, Andorra, spend two nights in a bungalow, and return with a trunk full of Absinthe, Andorra-stenciled lighters, pens, fridge magnets, and the country’s Euro-style, ovular, white “AND” stickers (which identify the owner of the property upon which said sticker is affixed, as a pacifist pastry eater who will survive both nuclear holocaust and the subsequent zombie apocalypse thanks solely to Andorra’s “under the radar” status) all for the low, low price of approximately 120 €, for transportation, food, lodging, and party favors? What kicks were State Department henchmen getting in Andorra? Maybe they should be writing this article.

All in all, Andorra offers an affordable feast for the soul and all senses. It takes a special kind of person to reach this Shangri-la of the Pyrenees, an even more special person to throw the proverbial boulder in the figurative pond of its quiet mountain towns, and a rare breed of animal to successfully arouse the (wander) lust of those susceptible to stories of raucous adventures in countries they weren’t quite sure existed.

To do it right, go in June, just before the tourist season picks up. By beating the rush, you guarantee yourself a wide berth to roam about Andorra spontaneously and irrationally, and you are more likely to succeed in finding lodging only a short stumble away from local bars and restaurants. July and August bring in the summer hordes before the short fall and the ski season. Accommodations and other information are easily found on Andorra’s tourism website. Andorra is perfect for a weekend experience, but its mountain walls start to close in and the rental car will get restless for any time longer than that. And for God’s sake, don’t go during ski season.

Beau Miller holds a Master’s degree in International Relations from Syracuse University and is America’s greatest long-distance driver, having recently learned to drive manual, at 29 years young, on the way to Andorra. This is his third article for GoMad Nomad. His previous dispatches have been from Nepal and Oman.

Entering Andorra le Vella, Andorra's capital.

The view from an alleyway in the bustling metropolis of Canillo, Andorra

Stopping to enjoy the great Andorran past-time- hitting snowballs with a stick

Bungalows often include wifi, kitchen, and showers

Andorra's reduction in defense spending has allowed it to increase its budget for the arts

All the comforts of home...

Dear GoMad Nomad,

My friends and I are planning to visit Jeju Island in South Korea in March 2012. But I forgot that it is the end of winter! Is it a bad time? My friends and I love beach hopping, so our main goal is to swim. Is this a bad time? We would also love to visit Mount Halla and see the flowers and plants. Will the winter “spoil” the scenery? Is it better to wait for summer (perhaps April)? Thank you very much and looking forward to your response.

-Jo

Dear Jo,

I don’t think March is a bad time; however it’s less than ideal for swimming. Although tourists visit Jeju Island year-round, March is still a slower tourist season than the summer (when beachgoers flock to Jeju) and autumn (when newlywed usually visit). However, there are always advantages to visiting places in the off-season (think cheaper accommodation and fewer tourists).

It would take a very hardy soul (Jeju’s women divers, for example), or a wetsuit to swim in Jeju’s waters in March. It might be pleasant enough to sit on the beach. The average high temperature in March is 13°C (55°F).

I taught English on Jeju island in January and February of this year and it was quite cold, mostly due to the strong winds that batter the north side of the island. The southern shore is more protected from the cruel winds and rain.

I certainly wouldn’t say that the scenery is “spoiled” in winter. It is arguably more beautiful, with snow dusting Mt. Halla, creating a truly serene atmosphere. But it’s unlikely you’ll see plants and flowers. I climbed Mt. Halla in February and trudged through some deep snow to get to the top. Despite the fact that it was winter, there were still a lot of hikers, but it was, nevertheless, an unforgettable experience.

As a Korean friend of mine is very quick to point out, there is more to see in Jeju than Mt. Halla. Be sure to visit some of the oreum of Jeju. There are plenty of tourist traps and kitsch on the island, but Jeju is a legitimate cultural and geologic treasure of Korea. I also wouldn’t leave the island without checking out some of the best examples of lava tubes on earth.

If you’re still curious to research more things to see and do on Jeju-do, read my “South Korea” archive on my personal travel blog: Bohemian Traveler.

-Stephen

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By Stephen Bugno

The Empire State Plaza of Albany, New York

Getting Oriented

A great way to get oriented with Albany is by taking a tour with the Albany Aqua Ducks. Popular with both locals and visitors, the tour takes guests first by driving through the streets of the city and second on the Hudson River taking advantage of the dual nature of the amphibious vehicle. You’ll learn plenty of facts about Albany that you hadn’t already known and you’ll get to wiz past the sites you can return back to when yo have more time.

Alternatively, take a self-guided walking tour around Albany. Start by picking up a map and guide at the Visitor’s Center at 25 Quackenbush Square and navigate yourself past notable theaters, old churches, ornate houses, grand buildings and the river that gave rise to this city.

Museums

Albany’s two premier museums are the New York State Museum and the Albany Institute of History and Art, both worth the time and effort to visit.

Located on the southern end of the Empire State Plaza is the mammoth New York State Museum, the largest and oldest state museum in the country. It’s divided into three main exhibit areas: New York Metropolis, Adirondack Wilderness, and Upstate New York Native American peoples; in all covering a billion years of earth’s history. The displays are life-sized dioramas, sound and video shows, historical artifacts, and scientific specimens. Especially moving is the September 11^th exhibit. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Free admission.  More info:  http://www.nysm.nysed.gov/

What’s interesting about the Albany Institute of History and Art is the fact that it’s not just an art museum. It’s strives and succeeds to integrate both disciplines of art and history. The art and objects contained within tell the bigger story and try to explain in many cases how Albanians have lived through the past three centuries. Don’t miss the Hudson River school collection—the first American School of painting. Founded in 1791 the Institute of History & Art is one of the oldest museums in the United States. Wednesday–Saturday: 10:00am–5:00pm. Sunday: Noon–5:00pm. Admission: $10.  More info: http://www.albanyinstitute.org/

Architectural Highlights

The most distinguishable architectural complex of Albany is that of the Empire State Plaza. It’s a monumental area taking up the space of 40 city blocks including The Egg, Corning Tower, the New York State Museum, and additional government buildings.

The New York State Capital is worth a closer inspection, both outside and in. They offer free self-guide tours. While you’re downtown, take a walk past some other highlights like the State University of NY building, the old Union Station, City Hall, the New York State Education Building, and the Alfred E. Smith Building. Overall I was quite impressed by the architecture of Albany.

Lark Street and Washington Park

Lark Street is the bohemian neighborhood of Albany, lined with an assortment of small shops, art galleries, ethnic restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and coffee shops. East of Lark Street is the neighborhood of Center Square, a residential neighborhood of fine 19^th century homes and a pleasant place for a walk.

Continuing west from Lark Street is the Frederick Law Olmstead-designed Washington Park, an urban oasis of curvy roads, greens, gardens, and woods. In the summer, be sure to catch one of the plays or musicals at the Park Playhouse here at the Lake House.

Get the view

Before leaving Albany, make sure you visit the observation deck on the 42nd floor of the Corning Tower. This affords views for miles in three directions. It’s open Monday–Friday 10am-4pm. Free admission.

Why Albany?

History is the short answer. Albany is the oldest city in New York and one of the oldest in the nation. Henry Hudson arrived here in 1609 and by the mid-1600s the Dutch had settled a trading post known as Fort Orange. Today it’s a city dominated by the state government and the many institutes of higher education (more than 10 in the surrounding area!)

For many years Albany played an important role as the eastern terminus for the Erie Canal. Over the years it’s been home to writers Bret Harte, Hermann Melville, Henry James; and no less than five presidents got their starts in Albany. (Can you name them?) Today it’s got fine culture: museums, theater, dining, and architecture.

If you go:

The Albany Visitor’s Center is located at 25 Quackenbush Square. Check out Albany.org for more information.

Click through to see more photos of Albany.

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By Stephen Bugno

In the past 14 months, I’ve driven across the United States more than 16,000 miles (25,750 km) during two extended road trips. Some of my earliest travel memories are from a Vegas to Albuquerque road trip through the southwestern US as a nine year-old. Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good journey on the road.

Good road-tripping to me means experiencing the places you travel through by interacting with people, absorbing the landscapes, eating the regional foods, traveling greener, not spending excessive money, supporting the local economy, and slowing down to enjoy yourself.

Stay off the Interstate

This is a point I’ve been trying to drive home for the past few years. The interstate—while occasionally scenic, is never interesting. Nothing worthwhile happens on limited-access divided highways except making good time. Even Steinbeck would agree with me. His 1962 Travels with Charley revolved around avoiding the interstate. If you drive the back roads, the scenic byways, the old US highways, your trip will be much more interesting.

Don’t stop at chains

McDonald’s and Arby’s, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut are not interesting to travelers—nor are they healthy. Mom and Pop dining establishments are generally unique, sometimes quirky and occasionally healthy alternatives. You’re more likely to run into locals and have an opportunity to try regional specialties and even eat local or fresher food. And what’s more important about a place than its cuisine?

Another one that’s important to me: no gas station coffee. It’s worth it to get a good cup of coffee at a coffee shop or diner. At least I know I’m supporting a local business while perpetuating my caffeine dependency.

Photo credit: Juno Kim

BYOS—Bring your own stove

You can’t eat every meal out—nor would you want to. Cooking your own food means a lot of things. One, you’ll be eating healthier. Two, it means you have the chance to buy local, fresh food. One of the greatest pleasures of my recent road trip through New England, was stopping at random farmers’ markets. I was buying vegetables in-season and supporting the local economy and small producers. Many times, coops or individuals will have their own fruit and vegetable stands right outside their homes, so you won’t even need to catch the weekly markets. Shopping this way also gives you an inside look at local food politics and movements (like the availability of grass-feed beef, organic produce, and raw-milk cheese).

Indulge in the local specialties

Taste wine in northern California, feast on lobster in Maine, eat Po’ Boys in New Orleans, have a sourdough breadbowl in San Francisco. This is what makes travelling so much fun.  Vermonters take their cheese seriously and Quebecers are proud of their maple syrup—enjoying their specialties makes them happy. Save your money for what’s important—I’ve always said I’d rather sleep uncomfortably and eat well.

Stop in small towns

This one makes sense all-around. While I don’t agree with my friend Gilbert’s idea that “big cities in the United States are not interesting”, I do see his point. The strengths of the United States are its natural and geologic wonders. Also, I would argue, it’s in the small towns and rural areas that the essence of the nation really shines through. Furthermore, whether it’s Kansas or New Hampshire, people in small towns are really friendly. On an economic level, supporting the economies of the little towns is a good thing—and they are less-expensive than cities. Fewer cities in your itinerary means less traffic, less trouble finding parking spots, less overall stress.

Make it longer—Take it slow

Try to minimize your daily driving and take more time to enjoy the places you’re traveling through. Sometime I plan two days to drive to a place I know I could easily make in one driving day. The truth is, I will find something of interest along the way, and in turn will stop to spend a few hours, even if it’s just to linger over a long coffee or take a walk through a town park. I’ve done plenty of intensive sightseeing and trips with filled itineraries, and while I don’t regret those experiences, I’d still prefer to take it slow and not only “see” things, but try to soak in the atmosphere of the places I’ve traveled so far to see.

Drive slower

Making a few minor adjustments can make your road trip as economic and environmentally-friendly as possible. While driving isn’t the greenest option, it’s still better than flying in most cases. First thing you can do to save gas (petrol) is by slowing down. You’ll get better fuel efficiency by not driving like a maniac. Also try to reduce the amount of stuff you bring along; a heavier car wastes more gas. Additionally, make sure your tires are inflated properly and the engine air filter is clean.

Pack a tent

Traveling with a tent allows the obvious: camping and opportunities for backpacking (trekking). Camping saves money over hotels, and wild camping, if you can find it, saves money over campgrounds. A good tip for camping in the United States is to try to find National Forest land, where you can camp for no fee. This works well in the western US where there is a plethora of public lands. Trekking can be a good way to break up a long road trip. On recent road trips, I hiked multi-day treks in the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Sierra Nevada of California.

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Stephen Bugno has been road-tripping since before he could see over the steering wheel. He’ll brake for free camping, a coffee refill, or to wait for moose to cross the road. He’s just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

By Isabel Eva Bohrer

by luis_psrng

 Oktoberfest has long become an international tourist destination. And while most of the Munich natives certainly speak some English, the festival still retains its traditional Bavarian origins. (To read more about that, check out my article on the history of the Oktoberfest.) When celebrating its 200-year anniversary in 2010, the Oktoberfest in Munich included a special section devoted to showcasing its history. Because this special was such a success, it will be included again this year. To come prepared, why not learn a few Bavarian words and phrases before you arrive? Here are 10 essentials:

 1. Bier (beer)

To many, Oktoberfest is synonymous with beer festival. Ordering beer is easy, and the fact that “bier” in German is pronounced the same as in English makes it even easier. Just be sure you control how much of it you order!

2. Prost (cheers)

In many of the tents, you will hear the notorious song “Ein Prosit, ein Prosit…” Prost means cheers in Bavarian, so before you drink that Mass Bier (1L beer), be sure to say that.

3. Brez’n (pretzel)

Bavarian pretzels in no way compare to the fake version that is sold on the streets of New York, for example. In fact, upon taking some Munich natives to the Big Apple, they were appalled at the pretzel that is sold at food trucks here; “it tastes like plastic, they said.” The true Bavarian version, on the other hand, is soft and made of fresh dough. You can get them in different sizes and they are a great way to assure that all that beer doesn’t get to your stomach so quickly.

4. Hendl (grilled chicken)

Hendl at Oktoberfest are either ordered as a half or a whole. The most typical is to get Hendl with Pommes, which means French fries.

5. Knöd’l (dumplings)

Bavarian dumplings have nothing in common with the Asian version. The German ones can come in different variations. For example, you can get Semmelknödel, which means dumplings made of bread (spices are added, too, but they tend to be very mild). Kartoffelknödel, on the other hand, are made of potatoes. Usually, they will be accompanied by a creamy sauce.

6. Wies’n (Bavarian word for Oktoberfest)

This word refers to the Theresienwiese, which is the festival ground where the Oktoberfest in Munich is held. The name goes back to the fact that in 1810, the Oktoberfest was initiated as part of the royal wedding celebration of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese. Her name still resonates in the tradition of the Oktoberfest today and is also the name of the subway stop where people get off to go to the festival.

7. Ox’n (meat from the ox)

In addition to chicken, there are hundreds of whole oxen being prepared for Oktoberfest. The place to get this kind of meat is at the Ochsenbraterei, literally meaning the place where the oxen are roasted.

8. An Guad’n (Bon Appétit in Bavarian)

So you’ve already learned how to say “Prost,” which applies to cheers for drinking. To cheer on the eating, An Guad’n will help you out.

9. Apfelshorle (apple juice mixed with sparkling water)

Sure, beer is the standard. But for those who don’t want to get drunk (or vary things up a bit), you can order this drink: apple juice mixed with sparkling water. It’s a great refresher after going on all those rollercoasters and bumpy rides.

10. Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick)

Those who want to take a break from meat (or don’t eat it in the first place), can opt for grilled fish on a stick. The best place to get these is at the Fischer Vroni tent.

An Guad’n!!

For more on German foods, read: Top 10 German Foods

Isabel Eva Bohrer is a freelance writer, editor, photographer, and translator currently based in Madrid, Spain. She has lived, studied, worked, and volunteered in over twenty countries on five different continents. Equally enthralled by the close-by as the distant, she aspires to share her adventures and advice through eloquent writing alongside eye-catching images. Visit her website at www.isabelevabohrer.com.

By Stephen Bugno

San Blas used to be important. It was a crucial port when trade between Spain and the Philippines was in its heyday. Then Acapulco took over and San Blas became a backwater. But that’s why it’s a fantastic, little, chilled-out beach town today.

The empty stretch of beach at Playa El Borrego, San Blas, Mexico.

Set 90 minutes down a narrow two-lane road bounded by dense vegetation from the nearest city, Tepic, it feels very remote. I planned my visit for Mexico’s bicentennial celebration back in September 2010. I wanted to see the party in a small town and witness the locals and few tourists join in for the festivities. It all happened in the town’s main square: music, dancing, speeches, parades.

I could have stayed in Mexico City or Guadalajara, but I wanted to be in a small town to celebrate Mexico’s 200^th birthday.

Why I chose San Blas

The famous Pan de Platano, banana bead of San Blas, Mexico

I was only in Mexico for a few weeks and only had time to visit one beach. I chose San Blas. It’s description mirrored that of a slow and very laid-back lifestyle.

In fact, my guidebook, The Rough Guide to Mexico summed it up perfectly by saying “for such a small town, San Blas manages to absorb its many visitors without feeling overrun, submissive or resentful”.

I visited in the off-season so it was even more void of tourists (probably only a dozen foreigners in all), but still there was plenty of local life. There are simple little cafes and street carts around town and a low-key but lively and fun bar scene. Internet cafes are plentiful and guesthouses are scattered around town.

The beaches are nice. For the first 200 m or so there are restaurants and a few cabanas along Playa El Borrego, but after that it’s just palm-fringed beach the rest of the way down. It eventually stops after a few km because this beach is like peninsula with a lagoon behind it. On the other side, where the lagoon opens into the ocean, are some other beaches at Los Islitas.

San Blas is also a relatively safe place to hang out. People linger outside at night. Budget travelers camp on the beach at Stoner’s Surf camp, where you can get surfing lessons as well. Safety is a concern to most people traveling to Mexico, so that’s why I tackled that issue in a recent post. Mostly it’s the US media that is blowing the drug wars out of proportion. Mexico is safe for tourists in most areas of the country.

I would consider San Blas as a destination for one of your upcoming Mexico holidays, specifically if you like a laid-back and independent beach scene. No Club Meds or Wyndhams here. And very few hawkers giving you any unnecessary hassles. Just a mellow surf scene and some fellow low-impact independent travelers.

Stoner's Surf Camp in San Blas, Mexico

The locals are really friendly and super easy going. On several occasions I walked past waiting taxi drivers are they didn’t even call out to me. A walk down by the beach you’re likely to witness fishermen doing their thing. Towards the evening I saw about 12 guys hauling in a gigantic fishing net by hand.

Before arriving to San Blas, I heard lots of nasty stories about the biting sand flies that seem to attack humans at certain times of year. This alone is said to be the reason that mass tourism did not develop in San Blas. The no see-ums weren’t around when I visited, but the mosquitoes were nearly unbearable every evening at dusk.

Around San Blas

One afternoon I was feeling energetic and borrowed a bicycle from my guesthouse and together, with a fellow traveler whom I just met, peddled over to Bahia de Matanchen. Most of the six kilometer road led through marshes where we saw plenty of bird life. Eventually when we reached Los Islitas near Mantanchen village beach we leaned our bikes against a palm tree and pulled up a chair at a local beach-side restaurant. I ordered a whole fish grilled with garlic and a huge coconut to drink. After dinner we took a dip in the bathtub-warm water and explored the rest of Los Islitas by bike.

Getting there and costs

San Blas is located on the Pacific Ocean in the Mexican province of Nayarit. It’s a 90 minute, $42 MXN ($3.50 US) bus ride from the city of Tepic and another 2-3 hours and $190 MXN ($16 US) back to Guadalajara.

I got a single room with bath in the off-season for 150 pesos ($12.75 US)per night, which was one of the cheapest options in town.

Dear GoMad Nomad,

My wife and I have been retired for a few years and have done a bit of traveling in Europe and South America. Our sights have now turned towards Asia and thinking about places where healthy retirees could go far on savings.  My wife has always been interested in India, but from what I’ve heard, that just sounds like a difficult place to travel.

Serving up snacks at a street stall in Little India in Penang, Malaysia

I’ve read your article on Malaysia and have been advocating this destination as an alternative. We’re now at a bit of an impasse, and I’d like to hear your ideas about the pros and cons of both countries.

-Baxter from Oak Ridge, TN

Dear Baxter,

Malaysia and India are both very worthy travel destinations that meet your lower-budget requirements, but they are very different beasts.

You’re right, India can be a difficult place to travel: physically taxing for travelers of any age. But it can also afford plenty of luxuries, it all depends on your travel style and budget. But more noteworthy, India can be mentally exhausting. India rearranges everything you thought was normal in our world. You will witness the extremes of humanity. It requires a very open mind and non-judgmental attitude.

There really is no place like India. Its diversity of peoples, languages, cultures is unparalleled. It is intensely spiritual: the birthplace of four of the world’s great religions.

If you are mentally and physically prepared and open to the challenges that India presents, it can be a very worthwhile and rewarding destination to travel.

After a recent to Malaysia, I left the country pleasantly surprised. I liked Malaysia because of its fusion of Asian cultures: Malay, Chinese, and Indian, as well as the distinct and very delicious cuisines that come from each of those cultures.

Malaysia is a rapidly modernizing country, and transportation is quite comfortable and easy to get around with air-conditioned coaches zipping from city to city.

Similar to India, Malaysians speak English well enough to facilitate everyday necessities and allow for conversations with locals to make your trip more meaningful.

Prices do vary, from region to region, but overall Malaysia is very affordable and what I call a good-value destination, meaning it’s not super cheap, but you get good quality service and products for inexpensive prices. Read my post on Malaysia: What it Costs.

Plus, there are some great things to see in Malaysia: world-class beaches, jungle trekking, wildlife viewing, diving/snorkeling, hill-stations, and the rich history and architecture of colonial settlements.

I really don’t have any negatives to tell you about Malaysia, except that the rapid modernization might leave you feeling that it’s not as exotic as you expected.

Hope this helps in your decision making process.

-Stephen

Have any retirees traveled to either India or Malaysia?  Leave your comments below…

By Noel Lau

“There’s no cheap way to get to Machu Picchu,” said the guide who was trying to sell me a tour. Seeing Machu Picchu had always been a dream of mine but I wasn’t going to join a tour. Getting to Machu Picchu can put a dent your pocket. I was at the end of my South American trip, so I couldn’t afford the expensive Inca trail nor did I want to cheapen my experience there by taking the train.

The ruins close up: Terrace planting field on the left, temple in the center and living quarters on the right.

Arriving in Cuzco, I set out to find information about an alternative route I’d heard from other travelers. I found that it’s quite easy and straight forward; I could do Machu Picchu in two days. So that night, I went back to the hostel to pack a small bag and left my big one at the hostel. Most hostels allow you to do that without extra charge.

The Alternate Route

The next day I left quite early to catch the 7am bus from Cuzco’s Santiago bus station to Santa Maria. There are departures every 15-30 minutes. The bus ride usually takes around 6 hours and cost 15 soles ($5 US). However, since it had rained heavily two days earlier causing some landslides, my journey took eight hours. Besides two German travelers, most of the people on the bus were locals returning to their villages after doing their business in Cuzco. Women and men with gurney sacks and shopping bags squeezed their way into seats, while salesmen came on board and talked for hours selling all kind of medicines and goods.

Local women selling food on wheelbarrows by the side of the road.

At around 12pm the bus stopped at a small roadside village. We got off the bus to be greeted by local women and children selling cheap ($ 1-2 US) and delicious food on wheelbarrows. There were passengers from other buses and lorry drivers too. The whole road was blocked for us to have lunch. It soon became a market place with people standing, sitting and squatting in the middle of the road enjoying their meal.

I arrived in Santa Maria just after 3pm. It’s a tiny crossroad hamlet with a few shops and restaurants. There are combi (shared taxi) waiting to take people to the nearby villages. The one I took cost 8 soles ($3 US) and took 45 minutes to the village of Santa Teresa. As this alternate route becomes popular, drivers will charge foreigners more, so make sure you bargain and check with the locals if they are paying the same. The road to Santa Teresa is unpaved and there are many blind corners. My heart stopped every time the car turned a sharp corner or drove close to the edge to let on-coming cars through; it didn’t help that I was sitting at the window and could see the 200m drop to the ravine below.

When I got to Santa Teresa I took another combi to Hidroeléctrica (the hydroelectric plant and the last train station) for 4 soles ($1.50 US). Since there are not many people going there, it could be a long wait to fill up the combi. I was lucky to be with the two German guys and we found an old man going that way as well so we got to Hidroeléctrica in 30 minutes. If you don’t want to wait, you could walk there in two hours. And if your timing is right, you could hitch a ride with the lorry that takes workers to and from the plant. On my return trip, I hitched a ride this way from the plant to Santa Teresa.

Me at the beginning of the track along train track to Machu Picchu village.

From Hidroeléctrica, you could take the train for 18 soles ($6 US) and in 30 minutes you’ll be in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu village), but there are only 3-4 services a day. Or you could walk along the train tracks for 10km to get to Aguas Calientes.  We decided to walk. We chatted, enjoyed the view and saw some small ruins. When it got dark, I was lamenting for missing out on seeing the scenery but then fireflies came out of nowhere and accompanied us all the way. I felt like I was in a fairy land. That really made my day.

Shoestring Accommodation and Food

We arrived in Aguas Calientes just after 7pm tired and dirty. We went straight to the Tourist Office to get the entrance ticket for Machu Picchu. It costs 126 soles ($45 US) for adult and 63 soles ($22 US) for students with ISIC card. At night Aguas Calientes is like a well-lit amusement park surrounded by dark imposing Andean Mountains. There are hotels and restaurants to suit all budgets, however finding something for shoestring budget proved to be a challenge. Finally we found a room for 12 soles ($4 US) each at Hotel No.1. There’s no street name, so to find it, go up the street where the Tourist Office is and take the 2^nd right turn, you’ll see it at the end of the street on your left just before the river. But the hot water was out so after a freezing shower, we went out looking for food.

Macchu Picchu from a look out point.

Not wanting to pay $10 for a meal, we decided to explore the little village. On the next street just behind the hotel, we crossed a bridge and found ourselves surrounded by locals, there were no tourists at all. We entered a simple but nice restaurant and had a set meal for 8 soles ($3 US); it was delicious and filling, just what we needed after a long day. As not many tourists venture to that part of town and it’s where the locals hang out, things in the supermarket are cheaper. We bought our snacks there for the climb to Machu Picchu the next day. You can’t bring food into the site, but bottled water and snacks are allowed in a small backpack.

Climb to the top

I woke up at 4am and had a small breakfast before setting out. The gate at Puente Ruinas only opens at 5am. From there it’s a steep climb to the top. It took me one huffing-and-puffing-hour. I stopped many times to catch my breath; even chewing coca leaves didn’t help.

Me on top of Wayna Picchu with Machu Picchu below.

Alternatively, you could catch a bus near Puente Ruinas for $7 (one way). The first one departs at 5:30am. There’s usually a queue so make sure you get there early. In high season, I was told that people start queuing at 4:30am.

Your Machu Picchu ticket also allows you to go to Huayna Picchu. But since they only allow 400 people to climb daily, it’s advisable to get there before the many bus loads of people. I was really happy to find out that I was among the first 400. Although it’s another hour of steep climbing from Machu Picchu, the view from up there was spectacular and make Machu Picchu look small and ant-like.

The Return

Machu Picchu far exceeded my expectations. I was so happy and smiled like a fool the whole time I was there. It literally took my breath away. I was there during low season and I was able to find moments and places to be alone to feel the mysteriousness of the place. After spending more than six hours drinking in the amazing sights, it was time for me to leave.

Getting down was much easier. I was back in Aguas Calientes in less than an hour. After a much needed lunch and before starting my return journey, I rested at the main square watching the goings and comings of the people. I saw a local woman combing her daughter’s hair outside her small restaurant as they waited for their first customer; I saw an old European couple, tired and dirty after conquering Machu Picchu, enter an overpriced western restaurant; I saw children in their school uniforms chasing each other without a care in the world; I saw two young Japanese ladies smiling as they looked at photos they had taken. It was hypnotizing. Reluctantly, I started my journey back; the same way I came.

However there is an alternate route: walking along the train track in the other direction, towards Cuzco, for 10 hours to Ollantaytambo. From there, you can take a shared taxi for 10 soles ($3.50 US) back to Cuzco. I was really tired and couldn’t imagine walking another 10 hours.

The going was slow and in Santa Maria, I had to wait four hours for the next bus. I was so exhausted I fell asleep on a bench next to a sleeping old man. I finally reached Cuzco at 2am. Lying in bed overwhelmed by fatigue, a sense of bliss and contentment washed over me. After fulfilling a dream, it was time to dream another.

This post was brought to you by Travel Insurance Cover, an Australian company offering policies that provide protection against the unexpected when traveling. Benefit from coverage for medical and hospital expenses, cancellation fees and lost or stolen luggage (as detailed in the policy wording), as well as worldwide emergency assistance. Arrange a quote for travel insurance online.

Noel Lau has been traveling and working his way around the world for the past decade. Most recently he has been living in Colombia after a year of slowly crossing the South American continent by bus, boat, and plane. He blogs at Wander2nowhere.com

By Stephen Bugno

I want to give independent travelers an idea of costs for traveling in Malaysia because it can be really helpful when planning your budget. I hear a lot of travelers complain that Malaysia is more expensive than Thailand. That may be true in some cases, but I noticed that very touristic places in Thailand, such as beach resorts like Ko Phi Phi, can be more expensive than the average place in Malaysia.

Laksa, a typical breakfast dish in Malaysia

Typically, prices in West Malaysia (peninsular Malaysia) are a bit cheaper than Borneo. Additionally, with the abundance of adventure tourism in Borneo, greater expenses can add up quite quickly. Especially when you factor in flying to and from Mulu National Park, which can easily add an extra $150 US to your trip.

Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Malaysia.

A day’s expenses in Malaysia

Approximately 3 Malaysian Ringget = 1 US dollar.

Breakfast: dim sum, kaya bun (baked), and tea at a Chinese bakery:  5 RM

Local bus to bus station: 1.50 RM

Bus from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan (about 6 ½ hours): 25 RM (bargained down from 30)

Lunch: Beef rendang with veggies, rice and tea at rest area:  6.50 RM

Local bus into city:  .90 RM

Hotel (shared double room at 38 RM): 19 RM

Afternoon tea with banana fritters: 2 RM

Dinner on the waterfront: 7 RM

Lime juice on ice at bar (for free wifi): 2 RM

Total:  68.9 RM = $23.16 US

A fishmonger in Kota Kinabalu's might market

Meals, accommodation, and transport

When I did multi-day treks in the National Park or wildlife sightseeing tours, expenses averaged  $40-50 US per day. Most travelers in Borneo do one or more of these trips, so factor that into your budget.

Prepared meals, transportation, and accommodation are quite inexpensive in Malaysia, although maybe not as cheap as in neighboring countries like Indonesia and Thailand. But if you are careful about spending and stay at the simplest guesthouses or hostels, eat at local kopitiam (“coffee shop” hawker stalls), and use public transportation, you could budget between $20-30 per day. Add additional for above mentioned tours.

Air Asia, Malaysia's budget airline

In my experience, dorm beds have run from 15–40 RM and basic doubles with shared bath from 35-70 RM. Meals at street stalls and hawker centers range from about 1.50 RM for “economy” noodles to 6 RM for a nice bowl of laksa. Long distance buses are a good value as well. The 5 ½ hour trip from Penang to Kuala Lumpur is about 30 RM on a spacious, air-conditioned bus.

Malaysia is NOT one of the world’s great beer drinking nations, so I have almost eliminated beer out of my routine. The cheapest you can find beer is 5 or 6 RM per 330ml can. In bars it is much more expensive (8-20 RM). Being a Muslim-majority nation, you’ll have to search out bars or Chinese owned eating establishments to get a drink. My advice is to save your beer drinking for Vietnam!

Stephen Bugno is currently on a three month tour throughout southeast Asia including Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. He edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

By Avery Sumner

I’ve got a full bladder and a thread thin polyester blanket stretched around me. I can’t reach the valve for the cold flow of air pouring over my seat and I can’t get up to use the bathroom because there’s a half eaten microwaved meal on a tray table locking me in place.

Wine barrel airplane. Now that's alternative energy! At Mas de Gourgonnier, an organic vineyard in Provence making a good quality boutique wine as well as olive oil.

Each time I take this flight between France and the United States I wonder how it is I paid (in my free lance world) the equivalent of one or two months’ salary for these conditions. The misery isn’t even rewarded with a rich tale to recount or reflect on later. It’s just a sterile, uncomfortable and really damned expensive experience. Add to that the massive environmental costs of the flight and the fact that if this plane goes down the likely-hood of survivors is, well, unlikely, and voila, you see the inspiration behind this article.

Though I haven’t found an alternative to the flexibility of ocean-crossing flights, I have found some general flying alternatives that make me feel more comfortable about the possibility of these being my last moments. So what could be better than cramming myself on a jet in the final hour? How about cleating the halyards of a sailing vessel headed toward somewhere far, or resting under a blanket of stars so thick I think I can see tomorrow.

Our bus travel in Senegal. Rough going but so much more fun than the sterile airport!

If you share my sentiments, maybe you’ll appreciate some of the alternative ways I’ve found to travel.

Freighter

A good option if you have time and a flexible budget. Contrary to popular belief, traveling by freighter is not cheaper than flying. Freighters generally cost around 100 € a day. From where I live in France to an eastern port in the United States I can pretty much count on 10 days. So for about 1,000 € I can get home one way. My last round-trip flight from Barcelona, Spain to Cincinnati, Ohio cost around 600 €, a big difference from the 2000 € a round trip freighter passage would have cost me.

But if I chose to go by freighter I’d be paying for ten days at sea with meals and room included. In essence, a cruise of sorts, with the added bonus of getting me where I want to go. A friend married to the captain of a working ship recently took her first voyage with him. She wrote me saying:

I had the most relaxing and pleasant three months perhaps of my life – sleeping, eating, reading, walking on deck and seeing the beautiful ocean, seas, gulfs, clouds, sunsets and sunrises as a regular part of my daily life. I also enjoyed watching the ship’s activities as we traveled through the Suez Canal and around the Middle East in the Red Sea, Persian Gulf and Arabian Sea.

Most people who travel by ship do it as a cheap way to get away for extended periods. A few books with such accounts are:

Travel by Cargo Ship by H. Verlomme
Running Away to Sea: Round the World on a Tramp Freighter by George Fetherling,
Around the World by Freighter by Bob Hartley
Bureaucrat to Tramp: A Freighter Cruise Adventure by Kenneth M. Peterson
Also the blog: http://goingeast.ca/blog/http:/goingeast.ca/blog/category/freighters/

But if you’re interested in booking a ship in place of a direct flight to a destination of choice, you’ll have to be prepared to pay more, plan more and relax more. Bookings need to be made at least six months in advance and even then, your departure could be delayed as ships change schedule according to unanticipated need.

So for my once a year trip back to the United States I would need to pick a date well in advance and then be prepared to spend 20 days at sea (round trip) with about a week’s wiggle room on either side to account for delayed departures. As difficult as this may sound, it’s entirely possible. The managing director at The Cruise People Ltd [Trans-Atlantic Passenger Ship Service] recently wrote me, “By the way we have a few regular clients in France and we have regular commuters by ship, one of whom does so to/from Australia and another to/from Singapore.” Sounds like I need to get my spontaneous life in order and join the ranks of responsible folks committed to an air-free lifestyle.

Two of the most helpful booking companies in my efforts toward this direction have been:
http://www.cruisepeople.co.uk/
http://www.freightercruises.com/

You can also book passages directly with ships. The friend I mentioned above told me, “I read that French Container Carrier CMA CGM of Marseilles is offering voyages around the world (or parts thereof) on six of their medium-sized container ships.” Going to your nearest port might also prove fruitful.

Another helpful site is http://wikitravel.org/en/Freighter_travel

Sailing/Crewing

One of the most energy efficient ways to travel is with the wind. Better known as hitchhiking across oceans, travelers wanting to crew on sailing vessels have to work to find the ride.

Berths can be found on charter boats, boat deliveries, cruising sailboats and on boats making ocean crossings, circumnavigations or year-long voyages. The most important thing a would-be crew member has to offer is free time as few people can just take off and leave a job or family for weeks of sailing.

The largest marina in Europe is in La Rochelle, France

Crew posts out of New England, Scandinavia and England can be found in sailing magazines and local yachting newspapers. But the best place to look for positions are at the ports where sailors often set out for ocean crossings or where they stop to re-provision. The key is being there at the right time.

The best ports and seasons are:

• Gibraltar from October to December for Atlantic crossings, April to June for heading into the Mediterranean (also Malta, Rhodes, and Piraeus have similar seasons)
• Canary Islands from October to January to cross to South America and the Caribbean
• La Rochelle in France is home to the largest marina in Europe, could be a good place to find rides to the Canaries or Gibraltar
• Antigua, Barbados, St. Thomas and Puerto Rico from October to November
• Panama any time of year, May for west-bound boats
• Tahiti around July 14
• Singapore and Honolulu, months depending on direction desired
• Miami, San Francisco, Long Beach and San Diego for charter boat posts
• Beaufort, NC is a famous jumping off spot for sailors headed into the Caribbean
• Floyd’s Hostel and Crew House in Fort Lauderdale, FL is good for jobs and crew posts
• Fort Pierce, FL boasts the cheapest marina fees on the east coast of Florida, a good place to find sailors doing work to their boats preparing for long winter cruises

The beach at the marina in Dakar, where world sailors moor for cheap.

Expect to spend two or three weeks at each port searching for a crew position. One way to lessen the cost of hanging around a port is working on a yacht in the harbor. You can get paid for varnishing or painting while gaining a good reference for a would be skipper looking to take you on as crew.

Things to consider before signing on to crew:

• Do you have enough extra cash for airfare home should you find yourself in a bad situation (Most major airlines give a 25 percent discount on one-way fares to seamen/women repatriating? You’ll need proof that you’ve been removed from a vessel’s crew list at a foreign port).
• Can you get along with a crew 24 hours a day for weeks on end?
• Why is there a vacancy on the vessel?
• Will you be charged for food and fuel, if so what is your share?
• What will your duties be?
• Is there a written contract for the exchange?
• If you’re the only woman on board, have you made a few short trips with the crew before taking off for a long voyage?
• What experience does the captain have?
• What shape is the boat in?
• Are you traveling light, with only one bag or back pack?

For more advice get a copy of Lin and Larry Pardey’s Self Sufficient Sailor.
The chapter Hitchhiking across Oceans is very detailed and full of personal experiences.

Mailboats

For island hopping voyages, a great way to see local life is to travel by mail boat. They’re slow going, but the price is right and the vantage point about as real as you can get. A good place to try this traveling style is in the Bahamas where mailboats reach the most remote out-islands in the chain. http://www.bahamas-travel.info/mailboat.htm

Over Land Travel

It’s really hard to resist dirt cheap deals through European airlines like Ryan Air and Easy Jet or US companies like Jet Blue. I know, I could fly to Morocco for 50 € tomorrow if I wanted. It takes a genuine commitment to traveling with a conscience to decline such offers. Just consider the gigantic carbon footprint left by jets and the insulated poor quality of experience you get from them. Remind yourself why you’re traveling in the first place and you’ll easily bid adieu to jets for good.

Train Jaune here in the Pyrenees. It's a slow going electric train that dates from 1910. It runs along the mountain sides offering stunning views.

Though expensive, nothing beats the comfort or adventure of traveling by train, especially super fast trains like the TGV in France. And if you do your research, buses can often be quite economical. In my department in France I can take the bus anywhere I want to go for 1€. Though not necessarily the fastest mode of travel, the experience is almost never dull.

If you simply can’t afford mass transportation prices, ride-shares are economical and gaining in popularity. Unlike hitchhiking, where timing and benevolence are chance, ride-sharing is a planned carpool with everyone sharing gas expenses. Sites like Craig’s List in the United States, Allostop in France and Mitfahrgelgenheit in Germany are good places to start. Often times independent local bookstores, coffee shops and natural food stores will post ride shares on bulletin boards.

But if time is no consequence, the richest traveling experiences are always on your own power. When you know your traveling lifestyle is sustainable for budget and planet the choice is easy.

Get inspired to pedal

Bikes in Burgundy at the hotel Le Cep.

http://www.adventurecycling.org/
http://www.pedouins.org/history.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/euhansen.html#rollyourown
http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/?

Get inspired to walk:

http://www.ffrandonnee.fr/
http://www.go4hiking.com/news/a-very-long-walk.html
http://www.appalachiantrail.org/site/c.mqLTIYOwGlF/b.4805859/k.BFA3/Home.htm
http://www.cdtrail.org/page.php
If You Only Walk Long Enough by Steve Cracknell
A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail By Bill Bryson

Away from the crowds Yoyogi Park.

Editors note: At first I hesitated in publishing an article with “party” in the title after such a short period of time since the devastating tsunami, but this post is part of the #JapanLife and #Blog4Japan which aims to bring attention to Japan from bloggers around the world.

Before publication, author Tom Shuttleworth assured me that the “recent terrible events in the north of Japan have reverberated as far as Tokyo. Yet despite reports of a capital in crisis, Tokyoites are a resilient bunch and are getting out and getting on with life. This year’s hanami (cherry blossom parties) will go ahead and will offer the city a chance to reflect and kick start the rebuilding of a damaged, but not defeated, nation.”

By Tom Shuttleworth

Tokyo is unlikely to be competitive in any list of the world’s most aesthetically pleasing cities.  Yet, at the end of March/early April, when the cherry blossoms bloom, the ashtray grays and prefab designs of the urban sprawl only serve to highlight the delicate beauty of this ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ flirtation with stunning nature.

Sakura (cherry blossom) draws the city’s residents out in their droves to set up camp under the trees for a picnic and a party.  If you want chaos, contemplation, romance or a personal photo worthy of any coffee table publication, this is the time to come to Tokyo.

So, where’s the party at?

Ueno Park

Not the best place for a quiet nap Ueno Park.

Ueno used to be the big hitter in Tokyo.  That was until the more important transport links (and thus all the money) moved to Shinjuku and Marunouchi.  Its last remaining glory is its park.  Whilst the rest of the area begins to resemble a back street of Bangkok’s Khao San Road area, the park brags about having the highest concentration of world class museums on the planet, and a whole load of cherry blossom trees to boot.  This idle boast keeps Ueno firmly on the tourist map.  Indeed, what could be more civilized than strolling around a park littered with Rodin’s sculptures framed by the fragile beauty of cherry blossom?

Well, not quite.  Ueno’s beat streets have always crept into the park.  It has a large homeless community, student layabouts from nearby Tokyo University and a smattering of budget backpackers looking to kill time in a free museum.

The park has no grass (a bit odd for a park) which makes comfy seating tricky.  Space under cherry blossom trees during weekends is at a premium and sheets of tarpaulin are laid down under the best trees earlier than a German holidaymaker’s towel on a sun lounger.  That said, the robust, no frills Ueno character makes for a hearty atmosphere, with everyone enjoying the simple pleasures of beer, the outdoors and the company of friends.  Plus, if staring at flowers for hours on end is likely to induce boredom then there are those world class galleries and museums to break up the day.

Elbows out! - Main sakura avenue, Ueno Park

Shinjuku Gyoen

Whilst most visitors to Shinjuku are siphoned out of the chaos of the world’s busiest train station into tower blocks and strip clubs, Shinjuku Gyoen remains a stately oasis of calm.  In fact, with so much hallucinatory neon in Shinjuku, it’s easy to forget that it’s here at all.  Strange then, that it should be so arrogant as to have ticket gates and an entrance fee.  It must be trying to keep out the riff raff.

This is a park that frowns upon frivolity and unchecked fun.  Breaking out the Frisbee or football on its inviting swathes of manicured grass is forbidden and be sure not to leave behind beer cans and cigarette butts.

The landscape here has been thought about.  Everything has its place, its design and it affords plenty of romantic views through trees to towering skyscrapers.  What it lacks in party atmosphere it makes up for in aesthetic appeal and abundant space.  The photo opportunities couldn’t get more Japanese unless you moved the whole set-up to the base of Mt. Fuji.

Shinjuku Gyoen is a place to enjoy the serenity of sakura rather than it being an excuse to get drunk outdoors.

Yoyogi Park

Away from the crowds Yoyogi Park.

Yoyogi during cherry blossom season (everything is a season in Japan, even two weeks) is a toned down version of your favorite summer music festival, with petals.  No surprise really, given its proximity to the ‘I’m hipper than you are’ districts of Shibuya, Harajuku and Omotesando.  So, expect lots of funky young hipsters, groups of students and Western guys ogling the local talent.  All of which comes replete with a turntable trance soundtrack and the lingering whiff of empty beers cans.

Away from the main areas, however, Yoyogi is welcoming to all with plenty of space to breathe and do, well, anything you want – play sports, jog, strum your guitar, rehearse your one man art show or smooch with a lover.  In a way, Yoyogi is like McDonalds, a leveler of society.  Whoever you are, however much money you have, no one cares.  Just hang loose and do your thing.

Yoyogi comes highly recommended.  Just don’t come with your parents, you square!

Marunouchi

Time for a little romance Marunouchi.

Marunouchi occupies the geographical heart of Tokyo.  It’s an area of wealthy business and national politics.  The Tokyoites around here wear Italian made leather shoes and shop for hardback books on business plans and economic futures.  No one would dream of Shinjuku’s sleaze or Shibuya’s pop trash.  Hell, there isn’t a ‘red light’ establishment to be seen.  And, for Japan, that is unusual.

The centerpiece for this civility is the residence of the Imperial family, an unseen palace surrounded by cherry blossom trees, imposing grassy banks and a network of moats.  At one point, this was the site of the largest castle in the world, hence the moats.  The castle no longer stands but the pathways that circulate the area make for a pleasant stroll through some beautiful avenues of sakura.

Seating in this area is limited and thus very crowded.  However, setting up camp misses the point here.  This a place to walk arm in arm with a partner or stretch your legs whilst setting the world to rights with a good mate.  Along the route (maps are available but not needed) there are some great places to get that quintessential ‘Japanese’ photo—branches of cherry blossom reaching out to the water, framed by the exotic curl of a temple roof.

If you want a hassle free, fluid viewing experience, this is the place to come.

Yasukuni Shrine

Despite any controversy Yasukini Shrine remains a popular place to see the cherry blossom.

For anyone in the know, Yasukuni might seem an odd place to enjoy the casual frivolity of a sakura party.  This is a shrine that houses the spirits of Japan’s war dead along with some Class A war criminals.  Annual visits by leading politicians draw understandable anger from neighboring Korea and China whilst draconian, right-wing, lunatics often use it as back drop for their brain hemorrhage inducing diatribe.

The shrine and its grounds are a juxtaposition of the imposing and the fragile, perhaps befitting of its purpose.  There are authoritarian pillars and delicate gardens, a mighty looking tori (gate) and of course, lots of cherry blossom.

When it blooms, Yasukini becomes inexplicably popular.  The long avenue that leads to the shrine plays temporary home to myriad of stalls and BBQ’s.  Tables and chairs are laid out under the blossoming trees and the robust food is washed down with plenty of cheep beer.  Things here really kick off late afternoon/ early evening when the office workers clock off.  You’ll be sharing space with business types who don’t want to get their suits dirty by sitting on the ground and giggle like school children when the breeze causes an impromptu shower of nature’s confetti.

Is having fun in such a somber, controversial place inappropriate?  Is it a sign of remembrance infused with a desire to look forward positively?  Or, is it simply the nearest place to catch some cherry blossom after work?

Do some research and decide for yourself.

Tom Shuttleworth is a keen traveler, having backpacked on five continents and currently lives in Tokyo where he has been working for three years. This is his first article for GoMad Nomad.

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By Nelya Rakhimova

The Kremlin in Tobolsk, Russia

Tobolsk is an average Russian town located in the middle of the western Siberian plain. It used to be the capital of the whole of Siberia until the 20^th century when the Trans-Siberian railway was built just south of here, when Tolbolsk reverted to being a small provincial town. Nevertheless, Tobolsk remains an historic capital of Siberia and one of the most beautiful cities for those interested in Russian architecture of the 17^th and 18^th centuries. Architecture here has a particular style that you cannot find in the European part of Russia.

I spent my childhood in Tobolsk and I am used to the cold Siberian winters with lots of snow. White-stone historical buildings look even better during this time of year, adding a magical lightness to the massive structures. I don’t live in Tobolsk anymore but I had a chance to walk around just before Orthodox Christmas and took some pictures to remember how my town looks during the winter.

Tobolsk, as any settlement, has changed over the years and looks totally different than it did when I was young. Now you can find three distinct districts that were formed during different periods: the modern town with boring Soviet architecture of apartment blocks; the historic center, where there is dynamic reconstruction activity; and the old district that was neglected during the Soviet period because of frequent flooding and a damaged drainage system.

Tobolsk’s three districts

The modern town does not attract many tourists because it has a typical modern Soviet development zone with straight blocks and wide roads. There is everything that is usual for such kind of town: blocks of flats, schools and colleges, a shopping center and restaurants, hospitals, etc. There are not many recreational places there. But during the winter an ice fortress is usually built with slides of different sizes where people of all ages can enjoy real Russian wintertime amusement. Other people prefer to go to the historical center to get a view of the Irtysh–one of the biggest Siberian rivers.

Winter in the new town of Tobolsk, Russia

The historical center is concentrated around the stone Kremlin—the elaborate fortress which sits spectacularly on the high river bank. It used to be the center of Tobolsk. It’s composed of white walls and towers with an ensemble of churches and palatial buildings.

The Kremlin was declared a national historical and architectural treasure in 1870; however, during Soviet times it was used for different purposes. One of the most beautiful buildings of the Kremlin is the bell tower which is also the highest structure. It was not used during the Soviet era; I remember that it was a big deal for the whole town when bells were placed back and we heard the first ringing after so many years of silence.

The Monastery of St.John in the outskirts of the Tobolsk, Russia

In the end of the 20^th century it became a third headquarters for the Russian Orthodox Church (ROC) after Moscow and Saint-Petersburg. Now the whole area of the Kremlin is under the ROC’s control; nevertheless it is still open for people to visit, especially during religious holidays.

The last part of the town is located on the low river bank and is not in good condition. It was the living area of the former Siberian capital with many beautiful churches and wooden houses. After the revolution of 1917 the last Russian tsar, Nicolas II was kept there with his family. They stayed in Tobolsk about nine months just before being moved to Yekaterinburg where they were executed in July 1918. The building where they lived is still there with a small chapel where the whole family used to pray every day.

Burned houses and church under construction in old town Tobolsk, Russia

In the 1920’s, the drainage system that spared the town from massive flooding was destroyed and the whole area fell into decay. Now you can see many burned-out houses and neglected buildings. Some areas are still occupied with people who did not want or did not have the opportunity to move to the new town. It looks like a typical Russian village with animals and small vegetable gardens.

Among them you can still see domes of abandoned churches. Some of them were used as storehouses, some were just destroyed. One church, where Mendeleev, the famous Russian chemist who created the periodic table, was baptized, was blown up in the early 1930’s. The monastery that was located in the middle of this part of town was redeveloped into a small factory that is not in operation anymore. During the winter it looks really depressing here, however last year’s city government tried to pay more attention to this area and started some redevelopment projects.

Holy Cross Church

My favorite church, Holy Cross Church (Крестовоздвиженская церковь), is located close to the river in the southwestern part of old town. It was built in 1781. In the 20^th century it was neglected and flooded several times. It is a unique church because it combines different styles of architecture and the interior is not typical for a Russian Orthodox church.

Holy Cross Church in Tobolsk, Russia

I was lucky to see it when I was a teenager and it was possible to go inside all these churches because nobody cared about them. In most of them, all of the insides were destroyed, but Holy Cross Church was the lucky one because stairs to the second floor were totally blocked with crumbled walls and nobody could go there. But if you climb up the bell tower and then walk along the roof, through small windows it is possible to see the unique inner decoration.

There is a famous legend about the church that in the 1930’s people from the Soviet government tried to tear a cross off from the bell tower several times. But it never fell; they only bent it. Then a man climbed to the dome to try one more time and he fell down and died. After this they stopped trying. Now you can still see the bent cross on top of the bell tower. The church was surrounded by a fence the last few years because of its supposed reconstruction; but it’s not possible to see it closely.

View of Irtysh River, frozen, near Tobolsk, Russia

Outside the town there are two monasteries that now are also under control of the ROC. They were nearly rebuilt by monks during the last couple decades. Usually visitors are not allowed to go there, however it is still possible to enjoy the spirit of the impressive structures from outside.

Tourism in Tobolsk

Tobolsk has recently become more popular among international tourists during the summer. However, being situated just off the Trans-Siberian railroad, it still does not get the proper attention from visitors that it deserves. The Russian government promised to invest more to promote the Siberian pearl—then name formerly given to  Tobolsk because of its historical and architectural treasures. However, now more and more people are leaving town because of its ceaseless economical decline. Hopefully in the future Tobolsk will become the tourist capital of Siberia.

If you go

Tobolsk is located 250 km (155 miles) from Tyumen, the capital of Tyumen region, which is located on Trans-Siberian road and has an international airport. You can take the bus from the interurban bus station; the trip lasts about four hours. There are several kinds of trains that go to Tobolsk from Tyumen. The best option is the train that goes once per day without additional stops. It is cheaper than the bus and it takes the same four hours. Because of the economic decline, the crime level in town has been growing during last few years; that is why you need to be careful during the evenings and nights. In general, people in Tobolsk are friendly and open as people from any of the Russian provinces.

Nelya Rakhimova grew up in the town of Tobolsk, Russia, and moved to Tyumen when she was 15. She has spent the last few years traveling and studying in various countries and is now pursuing a master’s degree in the United States on a Fulbright Scholarship. This is her first feature for GoMad Nomad.

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