Dear GoMad Nomad,

I am wondering if you can advise me on good places to visit in China, off the beaten path, where the prices are low, the people are friendly, the women are beautiful, and the scenery is breathtaking.

Sincerely,

Symour in Pasaic

Dear Symour,

Great timing on this one—I’m in the middle of three-month trip to China. On this trip I’ve stuck to Hong Kong/Macau, Guangxi Province (in the south), and Yunnan and Sichuan Province (in the Southwest) so my knowledge doesn’t go too far beyond that.

As a general rule, China is less expensive in the south and southwest and pricier in the north and east. So I’m going to steer you towards Guangxi, Yunnan and Sichuan.

There are very few foreigners traveling through China, so much of the time you’ll feel like you’re off-the-beaten-path. But watch out for the Chinese tourists—Lijiang, for example is inundated with masses from throughout China. My advice would be to spend as little time there as possible.

The backpacker trail in Yunnan (Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-la) is popular, but for good reason—it is a fantastic place to travel. (But as I said earlier, there are few western tourists). Breathtaking scenery—check! Friendly people—check! And as far as the beauty of the people—I’ll let you decide that for yourself.

These aren’t majority Han Chinese in much of Yunnan—but many of China’s ethnic minorities. This makes travel here more culturally diverse and interesting due to the individual dress, food, and customs of each nationality.

As far as expenses, I just published What it costs: Traveling in Yunnan Province.

After Yunnan Province, I headed up to Sichuan Province mainly for three reasons—tea houses, Giant Pandas, and food. The costs of travel in Sichuan are nearly the same as in Yunnan. There is distinct Sichuanese cuisine, incredible landscapes, and the chance to witness Tibetan culture without the hassle and expense of going to Tibet. The western half of Sichuan is situated high in the Tibetan Plateau and many of the towns there are ethnically Tibetan.

There are plenty of historic towns in Sichuan as well and the most laid-back of China’s huge cities—Chengdu (home of the Pandas).

The following posts might inspire you:

• The astounding Tiger Leaping Gorge
• Yuanyang Rice Terraces of Yunnan Province
• The 17-Arched Twin Dragon Bridge of Jianshui (Yunnan Province)
• The scenery surrounding the Li River near Yangshuo (Guangxi Province)
• A great local market near Dali, Yunnan.
• Tasting Tea in Kunming video

Additionally I’ve tagged my China posts on GoMad Nomad #China and Bohemian Traveler #China

Happy Travels! Let us know when you make it to China!

Sincerely,

Stephen

It’s impossible to give a report of traveler’s expenses for China as a whole because prices differ extensively from region to region. So for this post, I’m going to focus on Yunnan Province, a destination in which I spent over a month traveling. It is a fascinating region with spectacular landscapes and diverse peoples. It’s popular with travelers, but there are still places to get off the beaten track if desired.

Despite high prices in China’s larger cities, as well as in the provinces of north and east China, Yunnan is still an incredible travel bargain.

I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia and what it costs to travel in Laos.  I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be quite helpful during the planning stages.

Keep in mind $1 US = 6.3 Chinese Yuan (CYN) (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Yunnan Province:

A day’s expenses in Yunnan:

Breakfast of noodle soup with chicken:  6 CYN   ($ .95 US)

8 km taxi ride to Cangshan trail head:  15 CYN  ($ 2.38 US)

Entrance fee to the Park area:  30 CYN ($ 4.76 US)

(Avoided a 80 CYN ($12.70US) Cable Car fee by hiking)

Lunch: bread, fruit, snacks bought from supermarket: 14 CYN   ($ 2.22 US)

Dinner: twice cooked pork, bok choy, Kung Pao chicken, and rice: (52 CYN for two) 26 CYN ($4.12 US)

Dali Beer  (518ml): 5 CYN ($ .79  US)

Accommodation in Dali: 80 CYN (40 CYN pp if shared) ($ 6.35 US)

 

Total:   136 CYN       ($21.58  US )

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$25 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler and can share a room. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $20 or less per day. Consider that costs in Sichuan, Guangxi, and Guizhou are comparable to Yunnan.

Travelers can eat well in China. For breakfast, noodle soup or dumplings are usually about 6 CYN. In an informal restaurant or café, vegetable dishes usually run about 10 CYN and meat dishes nearly double. They are normally shared. With rice and tea, two can eat well for less than 20 CYN apiece. Nicer restaurants or foreigner-aimed cafés might be double that price.

Transportation costs are as follows: For a 15-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 203 CYN ($33.22 US). That’s what it cost us from Jinghong to Xiaguan (Dali new city). City buses are cheap: usually between 1 and 2 CYN and taxis are not too expensive at about 1 to 2 CYN per kilometer. As a general rule, trains are cheaper than sleeper buses (unless you ride soft sleeper class in the train or are travelling on the super-fast trains). An 18-hour train journey from Guilin to Kunming cost us 175 CYN in hard sleeper class. Read why that trip was a forgettable experience in: Night Train to Kunming. 

Accommodation is a good bargain in Yunnan. It pays to travel with a partner here—sharing the cost of a room. You can normally get a decent double room for less than 100 CYN ($15.87 US). We’ve paid as little as 40 CYN before, but those are not places I would recommend staying. Hostel beds usually run between 25 and 35 CYN ($4—$5.55 US)and are generally only available in the places popular with travelers: Jinghong, Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, and Shangri-la.

To rent bicycles, we paid 10 CYN for the whole day, but saw other shops renting better quality bikes for 35 CYN and up.

A warning about Entrance fees

Be forewarned that entrance fees to sights are outrageously high in comparison to the rest of the costs associated with traveling in Yunnan. Read why I had to see the Three Pagodas in Dali from outside the gate. I’ve seen ticket prices for a temple at 60 CYN ($9.50 US) and larger, more important sites costing 100 CYN, 150 CYN, or more! Unfortunately, we had to pass on more than one attraction because of cost.

China is a challenging place to travel as a foreign independent traveler. The extremely difficult spoken language makes it difficult to convey even the simplest ideas. Budget extra money for mistakes, e.g. booking a ticket to the wrong city or the wrong time, not knowing the correct prices. You may find yourself scribbling Chinese characters down on a note pad in order to communicate with people.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are common and reliable throughout China but expect both banks to take a bite out of your transaction. I prefer to take cash (and keep the money secure in my money belt at all times) a pay no exchange fee. I believe Bank of China is the only place to exchange currencies.

Making the most of your travels through Yunnan

Yunnan is a fascinating and inspiring place to travel. Costs are only going to go up and Chinese tourists are going to come in higher number in the future. New roads are being built, railways expanded, and cities enlarged.

My advice would be to get here soon. Although China is modernizing rapidly, the ethnic minorities of Yunnan seem to be holding on to their distinct customs and traditional way of life.

Have you traveled through Yunnan recently? How much did you spend per day?

By Gabi Logan

For travelers with itchy feet and empty pockets, WWOOFing sounds like the perfect opportunity. You can stay for free (with food included) amid such picturesque rural locations as olive orchards in Italy on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, rolling hills covered with lavender in the south of France, and blossoming cherry orchards in Japan.

“Sign me up!” you may be thinking, and while there are few drawbacks–you’ll even get a great tan–WWOOFing is not something you should rush into.

WWOOFing essentially means having your home, job, and social life all confined to one, often isolated, place and a handful of people. Wouldn’t you thoroughly check out the situation before accepting a job or signing a lease on an apartment?

Ask these key questions before confirming your WWOOFing stay to make sure that you–and your host–are happy with the arrangement.

What do you want to get out of the experience?

This is the only question to ask yourself and not your host, but it’s a biggie. Do you want to learn a skill like how to make cheese or garden organically or prepare artisanal marmalade? Or are you just looking for a new kind of work exchange experience or free room and board for a few months? 

The WWOOF organization is very staunch about the fact that WWOOFing is a knowledge and cultural exchange, not just a work for lodging quid pro quo. The President of the Italian WWOOF association, Claudio Pozzi, relayed to me that “if there is not sharing and exchange, the relationship becomes one of subordination, and that is the domain of other organizations. I want to reiterate that [for us] work is not a form of payment for hospitality.”

If you are not keen on learning something from your experience, whether it is specifically about organic farming or more generally about your host’s language, culture, or lifestyle, WWOOFing is probably not the best match for you. Look into a more general work exchange network like HelpX (http://www.helpx.net/).

What type of work goes on when you’ll be visiting?

Some WWOOF hosts are technically on top of things, providing a Google calendar outlining what type of work goes on each week or spelling out a rough overview of the main focus of each season in their WWOOF listing. Even in these cases, and especially when this information is not available, it’s worth discussing the planned projects with your host before confirming your stay. Otherwise you may find yourself sterilizing barrels and presses at a winery for a month instead of actually learning how to make wine, or bundling hay for three weeks instead of learning to make goat cheese as happened to a fellow WWOOFer.

When will you work?

Life in the countryside begins early. Whether there are animals that need to be fed, vegetables that need to be picked and packed for the market, or difficult labors to be finished before the midday heat sets in, you’ll probably be expected to start at 8 a.m. at the latest. Check on the typical morning hours with your host so you don’t find yourself in a place where work starts at 6 a.m. when you’ve never managed to get up before 8 or 9 in your entire life. Likewise, check which days your host expects you to work. A five day work week is not the norm on a farm, though religious households typically take a day off as a matter of course. Be clear up front if you expect to travel on the weekends.

How long will you be expected to work?

Before I embarked on my first WWOOFing experience, I was bewitched by a story in the Guardian in which the writer and her friend worked in the garden each morning, enjoyed a filling lunch made from local ingredients with their hosts, and set out each afternoon to explore the Tuscan countryside–even taking advantage of local thermal hot springs to nurse their sore muscles. Imagine my surprise when my host assumed I would work 8-10 hour days six or seven days a week! Setting (preferably in writing) an expected number of work hours before you arrive gives you something concrete to point to if you feel like you are being taken advantage of.

Will you be staying with other people?

For some travelers, meeting other adventurers is a big part of the experience. But if you’re not totally comfortable sharing close quarters with total strangers–a young female having to share a small room with a 40-year-old guy for two months for instance (true story)–ask your host about the situation in advance. They’ll probably already know who will be around during that time and may have a private or semi-private option if you ask far enough in advance. Watch how you ask though; I saw a WWOOF host laugh hysterically at the presumption of a couple who asked if they could stay in a private room.

Where will you stay?

As we covered in GoMad Nomad’s WWOOFing 101 guide, accommodations can vary from a private, self-service apartment with internet, full kitchen, tv and sitting areas to a tent or sparse caravan. Before you leave you’ll want to know whether you can expect to stay inside or not, and whether your electronics will be secure (or even rechargeable) during your stay.

Can you get into town (or to other towns) on your own?

If you are just looking for a rural experience, an isolated host is no problem. But being stuck in an inaccessible part of Tuscany with no way to explore Florence, Chianti, or the surrounding towns could put a big damper on your plans to use WWOOFing as a base to see the region. Ask your host about local transportation or other options for WWOOFers; some hosts have bikes available for their volunteers or will be happy to drive you to the nearest train station or show you around themselves.

The difference between a sob story WWOOFing experience and the time of your life can either come down to chance or preparation–it’s up to you if you want to take your chances with Lady Luck. 

It can be really difficult to get in touch with hosts, but asking you host these key questions before you confirm your stay ensures that you take control of your WWOOFing time and end up with the best situation for you.

Gabi Logan is a freelance blogger and travel writer. While renovating a Ligurian farmhouse on a recent WWOOFing trip, she finally found a way to put her Italian literature degree to use: bonding over Dante with her hosts.

10)  Ask GoMad Nomad: When to Visit Jeju Island, South Korea

9)  The Women Divers of Jeju

8 )  Photo of the Week: Cinque Terre

7)  My life in Baños del Inca, Cajamarca, Peru

6)  5 Spectacular Castles to Visit in Ireland

5)  Top 10 German Foods

4)  Pure New Zealand: 5 points of view

3)  Ask GoMad Nomad: India vs. Malaysia

2)  Photo of the Week: Koh Trong, Cambodia

1)  10 Things She Should Know Before Couchsurfing: Tips for Women

 My Picks: Favorite posts of 2011 that didn’t make the Top 10

Interview with a Female Hitchhiker

 
After hitchhiking all over South America, I had a few questions for contributing writer Sally Kay. Most importantly, I wanted to know what it was like to hitch alone as a female.
 

Going Jet-free: Alternatives to Flying

Contributing writer Avery Sumner gives us some of her best ways to avoid the environmentally destructive ways of air travel. Gets you thinking about some fun ways to get around.
 

Photo Essay: The Temples of Angkor

I was really happy with how my photos turned out from the Temples of Angkor in Cambodia. Although they can’t come close to conveying just how spectacular this site is, I tried to capture both the grandeur and the details.
 

Oman: Open roads, open arms, and open wallets

I love publishing articles about exciting places I’ve never been. In this one, Beau Miller takes us around a lesser-traveled country on the Arabian Peninsula: Oman.
 

Machu Picchu: Independently on the Cheap

In this informative article, Noel Lau lets us in on his secret of getting to Machu Picchu without spending a ton of cash, like your average tourist does.
 

5 Reasons Why Malls Rule Singapore

In this post, an admitted mall hater (myself) comes to terms with not only tolerating Singaporean malls, but embracing them.
 

Why Korean is the World’s Most Interesting Language

After visiting Korea for the second time, I felt obliged to tell the world a little about why written Korean is such an ingenious invention.
 

The Forgotten Capital of Siberia: Tobolsk

Nell Rakhimova takes us through her hometown of Tobolsk, which was once the capital of Siberia. Now it’s a forgotten and remote settlement with an interesting history.
 

Meet Jonas Studer, a primary school teacher from the small town of Brugg, Switzerland. For the last decade he has been crossing the world in search of the biggest, badest, and most exotic waves. It wasn’t until after years of traveling to surf that he began to “see things” other than waves. I caught up with him for an interview on a non-surfing leg of a trip to Malaysian Borneo.

GN: I’ve heard of Swiss hikers, mountaineers, ice-climbers…but surfers? No. How does a person from a mountainous land-locked country develop a life-long obsession with surfing?

JS: The first time I saw a proper wave was in my friend’s brother’s bedroom. We were young. It was a poster of Hawaii’s Back Door. We were sneaking into to his room to look for any evidence of girls that we could find. Instead of girls, we found surfing.

When I got a little older, I learned to surf “static” waves in rivers. At 14, we had raised money for a school trip to Barcelona. Due to a measles outbreak, the trip got cancelled. But some of us wanted to salvage our summer holiday. One of our classmate’s fathers invited us to his beach house in Brittany, France. We ended up using the money we raised for surfing lessons.

GN: Where are some of the destinations you’ve traveled to surf?

JS: In South America I surfed on practically every beach from Ecuador down to Santiago, Chile. In Central America I hit the waves in Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. Also, Indonesia, Australia (including Tasmania), New Zealand, and Hawaii. Closer to home, I’ve surfed in France, Portugal, the UK, Italy, and Morocco. And there’s one more place…but…I can’t tell you. It’s a secret.

GN: The question I always ask? Does your passion drive you to travel, or is traveling the driving force? In other words, do you travel to surf or surf to travel?

 JS: I definitely travel to surf. But traveling is a nice “side effect”. I thank my girlfriend Camilla for helping me to begin to see things when I travel. In fact, my first trip not to surf was to Bolivia and it was an incredible experience.

GN: Do you always travel with your surf board? How do you transport it?

JS: The surf board is a big pain to transport. My biggest board is 6 ft. 4 in. Some airlines charge extra for surfboards. British Airways does not allow them. You can find information like that on surfline.com.

GN: Has surfing brought you closer to locals or the local culture of the place you were traveling?

JS: For surfing, many times you have to trek to remote places. This has meant that I come in contact with a lot of locals and consequently have spent a lot of time hanging out with them. In Morocco, I took a car about two or three hours south of the touristy area to a predominately Berber region.

GN: How do you compare surfing in surfing cultures, say in Hawaii or Australia versus non-surfing cultures like Indonesia?

JS: In countries with a large percentage of surfers, everything seems to revolve around surfing, so much so, that it can be annoying. It attracts not only considerate surfers, but also the arrogant and selfish crowd.

In a place like Indonesia, you meet independent travelers that have come to surf and they tend to be much more open minded.

GN: Where are some surf destinations that are at the top of your list for the future? How about your favorite places to revisit?

JS: Indonesia is definitely on my list to revisit as is South America, predominately because of the combination of the waves and the culture.

I’d love to surf in Mozambique and Ireland at some point in the future.

GN: Thanks so much for the interview!  Keep in touch during your future surfing adventures!

Interview compiled by Stephen Bugno

I hadn’t visited Gettysburg since I went with the Boy Scouts back in the mid 90’s. Upon returning, I set off to find out if Gettysburg could be interesting for international visitors. The fact that the results of this war changed the course of world history cannot be debated. But that doesn’t mean that visiting the Gettysburg National Military Park is interesting to foreign visitors.

What happened at Gettysburg?

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania was the three-day scene of one of the bloodiest war battles the world has ever seen, not to mention the small town’s aftermath dealing with the thousands left wounded and dying in the fields around town. The battle was the biggest of the American Civil War and a great victory for the Union forces, thus proving to be a turning point in the war. But it could have easily been a Confederate victory if it weren’t for certain strategic blunders by the Southern generals.

Planning your time in Gettysburg

There’s plenty to see in Gettysburg. I recently spent two days there and reckon I could’ve stayed another. Most visitors, however, could be satisfied with two full days.

Start your tour at the Visitor’s Center. The Gettysburg National Military Park is run by the National Park Service, and the Visitor’s Center has been recently renovated. Don’t miss the outstanding video which helps give background information and explain the context of the battle in the War as well as explaining the troop movements and tactics used by the generals.

Next you’ll visit the battlefields. As you drive/cycle/walk around the serene battlefields, consider this: multiply every cannon you see by six, the actual number used during the fight. Every monument you see faces the enemy. This might appear odd in some places now, where a monument faces a wood. But for the past 12 years, the park service has been securing property and transforming the battlefield to exactly the way it was in July of 1863. This means cutting down trees, re-planting orchards, etc.

Another thing to remember, one that the townsfolk like to remind us of: the streets of Gettysburg were the battlefield too, not just the open fields surrounding town.

To get an idea of how the common citizens of Gettysburg endured the battle and aftermath, head to the Shriver House, an excellent little museum that shows us the inside of the Shriver family home as it was during July 1863. The guides tell us the personal story of how these individuals survived the three days of horrific fighting. The house-cum-museum was recommended to me and I’d agree it’s one of the best in town.

During the tour of the Shriver House, we were reminded of facts like the stench in town and how it lasted until November. When 70,000 horses and 160,000 men have no proper toilet facilities, that’s going to be hard on the nostrils. Not to mention the decomposition of 8,000 deceased soldiers and 5,000 dead horses. Townsfolk walked around town holding handkerchiefs with peppermint oil close to their nose.

Another quick but worthwhile stop is the David Wills House. Newly restored, it was the location where President Lincoln spent the night before giving “a few appropriate remarks”, which we know as his unforgettable Gettysburg Address.

American History or World History?

True this was the United States Civil War, but really it is world history. How important was the outcome of this war? If the United States had become two separate countries in the 19^th century, the world would undoubtedly be a very different place today. Remember, Gettysburg was the pivotal battle of the war. It changed the direction and momentum of the conflict as a whole.

Beyond the Military Park

Before leaving, check out the Eisenhower Historic Site. It’s a refreshing change of pace from all the intensive civil war-period information. And it goes along with our international theme. Who could be more international than Dwight D. Eisenhower? General of the allied forces in World War II, 34th President of the United States, and first supreme commander of NATO. He chose to retire in Gettysburg, the place where he first came for military training. Touring the Eisenhower farm is step back in time—to Mamie Eisenhower’s 1950’s and 60’s where the interior design was distinctly like my grandmother’s old house.

There are plenty of other small museums around town, and numerous ghost tours on offer. Just strolling through town is also pleasant. Noted by a plaque on the facade, you’re able to see which buildings were standing during the civil war era.

Practical details

Once well-connected with rail links and several roads, this was the reason Gettysburg was so desirable for the Confederate forces to capture. Today, although still well-connected by the same roads, Gettysburg remains off-the-beaten-path for most international visitors that are whizzing from New York to Philadelphia to Washington, DC. Those foreign travelers that do make it are mostly from Canada, the U.K., and Australia.

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania is located about two hours north of Washington, DC and two-and-a-half hours west of Philadelphia. Hotel and restaurants are plentiful; Gettysburg accommodates 3 million visitors each year.

By Beau Miller

“It’s governed by a council/ All good souls and wise./ They’ve only $5 for armaments/ And the rest for cakes and pies.” -Pete Seeger, “Andorra”

As your attorney, I advise you to rent a fuel-efficient automobile and drive at top speed to Andorra, but before you start packing the trunk with ether, Wild Turkey, and limes—stop. And think. Absinthe in Andorra is as abundant as the mountains, and at 3 Euro a liter for a bottle of the Green Fairy, you have more room for the Acapulco shirts and handguns. Now for the gory details. You have to go through France or Spain to get there. No public airports in Andorra, just curving stretches of finely-manicured highway being skillfully navigated upon by peace-loving Andorrans. Here I take the risk of coming off as some pretentious jackass, and I invite you to do the same. Because somewhere, in gritty Williamsburg, Austin, and Portland bars fair-skinned hands will tremble around their cans of PBR and filterless Luckies with borderline-uncontrollable desire as you utter one of the most powerful combination of words in modern English, “When I was in Andorra…”

Undoubtedly there will be those who, while able to identify the finer points of bicycle restoration, are unable to locate Andorra on a map or think it would be a great name for a band nobody’s heard of yet. Therefore you must arm yourself to the teeth with information. Skip the CIA Factbook because I’m supremely confident that they got their information from Pete Seeger’s 1960s love ballad about Andorra. However, recent developments must be taken into account in order to rightly appreciate the evolution of Andorran sagacity. Since the 1960s, it would appear that Andorra’s approximately $5 defense budget has been decreased. By approximately $5. It now delegates responsibility for the protection of its people, cakes, and pies to Spain and France. Though, the French, it would seem, are envious enough of their Catalonian neighbors and the unrivaled quality of their queso-induced siestas, that they keep a jab at Andorra holstered and at the ready for whenever mention of this tiny Pyrenean utopia is mentioned. “What does one do in Andorra?” the joke-teller will inquire. When met with a shrug of the shoulder or the oral imitation of the sounds of quick, satisfying flatulence (the preferred method by which many French exclaim their befuddlement), the joke-teller will go for the throat: “On dort!” In English, the punch-line translates to “One sleeps,” but in French it is a clever play on words, as it is pronounced exactly as locals pronounce the name of their nation in Catalan (Andorre). Yes, one sleeps, but only after one has had their fill of outdoor activity, paella, and strong drink.

Make for the campsite of your choice. In a country 176 square miles, it’s hard to get too far out of an Andorran city, but what it lacks in seclusion, it makes up for with its ability to provide a perfect cocktail of European caravanners. Anywhere is close to the capital city of Andorra la Vella and its tax-free shopping, and if not traveling solo, “bungalows” offer cheap accommodation, with separate bedrooms, shower, and a kitchen/absinthe-drinking arena perfect for discussing the social commentary of Celentano’s “Yuppi Du” (Youtube it). Though as the propietari of the Camping Pla confessed to me, the shower is not quite big enough to fit all your friends in at once. It can be hard to find a “cheap” plate of local grub, but you get what you pay for, and a plate of local paella and a bottle of house wine split with a camarada will leave one immensely satisfied. For keeping to a budget hit up the Andorra 2000, the bastard step-child of Walmart and a medieval public market, for its cheap and affordable selection of any type of alcohol under the sun, the legs of any standard livestock you might desire, and a tremendous array of cheeses. Nutella comes in buckets.
Initially drawn to Andorra as part of the search for either a setting for a setting for workplace team-building exercises or mass destruction, the US State Department, in 2003, estimated the average daily cost of a stay in Andorra to be $226. This raises significant questions. How could four exuberant young go-getters in a brand-spanking-new Ford Fiesta make the 1,500 km, round-trip journey from Lyon, France to the illustrious Camping Pla in Canillo, Andorra, spend two nights in a bungalow, and return with a trunk full of Absinthe, Andorra-stenciled lighters, pens, fridge magnets, and the country’s Euro-style, ovular, white “AND” stickers (which identify the owner of the property upon which said sticker is affixed, as a pacifist pastry eater who will survive both nuclear holocaust and the subsequent zombie apocalypse thanks solely to Andorra’s “under the radar” status) all for the low, low price of approximately 120 €, for transportation, food, lodging, and party favors? What kicks were State Department henchmen getting in Andorra? Maybe they should be writing this article.

All in all, Andorra offers an affordable feast for the soul and all senses. It takes a special kind of person to reach this Shangri-la of the Pyrenees, an even more special person to throw the proverbial boulder in the figurative pond of its quiet mountain towns, and a rare breed of animal to successfully arouse the (wander) lust of those susceptible to stories of raucous adventures in countries they weren’t quite sure existed.

To do it right, go in June, just before the tourist season picks up. By beating the rush, you guarantee yourself a wide berth to roam about Andorra spontaneously and irrationally, and you are more likely to succeed in finding lodging only a short stumble away from local bars and restaurants. July and August bring in the summer hordes before the short fall and the ski season. Accommodations and other information are easily found on Andorra’s tourism website. Andorra is perfect for a weekend experience, but its mountain walls start to close in and the rental car will get restless for any time longer than that. And for God’s sake, don’t go during ski season.

Beau Miller holds a Master’s degree in International Relations from Syracuse University and is America’s greatest long-distance driver, having recently learned to drive manual, at 29 years young, on the way to Andorra. This is his third article for GoMad Nomad. His previous dispatches have been from Nepal and Oman.

Entering Andorra le Vella, Andorra's capital.

The view from an alleyway in the bustling metropolis of Canillo, Andorra

Stopping to enjoy the great Andorran past-time- hitting snowballs with a stick

Bungalows often include wifi, kitchen, and showers

Andorra's reduction in defense spending has allowed it to increase its budget for the arts

All the comforts of home...

Dear GoMad Nomad,

My friends and I are planning to visit Jeju Island in South Korea in March 2012. But I forgot that it is the end of winter! Is it a bad time? My friends and I love beach hopping, so our main goal is to swim. Is this a bad time? We would also love to visit Mount Halla and see the flowers and plants. Will the winter “spoil” the scenery? Is it better to wait for summer (perhaps April)? Thank you very much and looking forward to your response.

-Jo

Dear Jo,

I don’t think March is a bad time; however it’s less than ideal for swimming. Although tourists visit Jeju Island year-round, March is still a slower tourist season than the summer (when beachgoers flock to Jeju) and autumn (when newlywed usually visit). However, there are always advantages to visiting places in the off-season (think cheaper accommodation and fewer tourists).

It would take a very hardy soul (Jeju’s women divers, for example), or a wetsuit to swim in Jeju’s waters in March. It might be pleasant enough to sit on the beach. The average high temperature in March is 13°C (55°F).

I taught English on Jeju island in January and February of this year and it was quite cold, mostly due to the strong winds that batter the north side of the island. The southern shore is more protected from the cruel winds and rain.

I certainly wouldn’t say that the scenery is “spoiled” in winter. It is arguably more beautiful, with snow dusting Mt. Halla, creating a truly serene atmosphere. But it’s unlikely you’ll see plants and flowers. I climbed Mt. Halla in February and trudged through some deep snow to get to the top. Despite the fact that it was winter, there were still a lot of hikers, but it was, nevertheless, an unforgettable experience.

As a Korean friend of mine is very quick to point out, there is more to see in Jeju than Mt. Halla. Be sure to visit some of the oreum of Jeju. There are plenty of tourist traps and kitsch on the island, but Jeju is a legitimate cultural and geologic treasure of Korea. I also wouldn’t leave the island without checking out some of the best examples of lava tubes on earth.

If you’re still curious to research more things to see and do on Jeju-do, read my “South Korea” archive on my personal travel blog: Bohemian Traveler.

-Stephen

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By Stephen Bugno

The Empire State Plaza of Albany, New York

Getting Oriented

A great way to get oriented with Albany is by taking a tour with the Albany Aqua Ducks. Popular with both locals and visitors, the tour takes guests first by driving through the streets of the city and second on the Hudson River taking advantage of the dual nature of the amphibious vehicle. You’ll learn plenty of facts about Albany that you hadn’t already known and you’ll get to wiz past the sites you can return back to when yo have more time.

Alternatively, take a self-guided walking tour around Albany. Start by picking up a map and guide at the Visitor’s Center at 25 Quackenbush Square and navigate yourself past notable theaters, old churches, ornate houses, grand buildings and the river that gave rise to this city.

Museums

Albany’s two premier museums are the New York State Museum and the Albany Institute of History and Art, both worth the time and effort to visit.

Located on the southern end of the Empire State Plaza is the mammoth New York State Museum, the largest and oldest state museum in the country. It’s divided into three main exhibit areas: New York Metropolis, Adirondack Wilderness, and Upstate New York Native American peoples; in all covering a billion years of earth’s history. The displays are life-sized dioramas, sound and video shows, historical artifacts, and scientific specimens. Especially moving is the September 11^th exhibit. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Free admission.  More info:  http://www.nysm.nysed.gov/

What’s interesting about the Albany Institute of History and Art is the fact that it’s not just an art museum. It’s strives and succeeds to integrate both disciplines of art and history. The art and objects contained within tell the bigger story and try to explain in many cases how Albanians have lived through the past three centuries. Don’t miss the Hudson River school collection—the first American School of painting. Founded in 1791 the Institute of History & Art is one of the oldest museums in the United States. Wednesday–Saturday: 10:00am–5:00pm. Sunday: Noon–5:00pm. Admission: $10.  More info: http://www.albanyinstitute.org/

Architectural Highlights

The most distinguishable architectural complex of Albany is that of the Empire State Plaza. It’s a monumental area taking up the space of 40 city blocks including The Egg, Corning Tower, the New York State Museum, and additional government buildings.

The New York State Capital is worth a closer inspection, both outside and in. They offer free self-guide tours. While you’re downtown, take a walk past some other highlights like the State University of NY building, the old Union Station, City Hall, the New York State Education Building, and the Alfred E. Smith Building. Overall I was quite impressed by the architecture of Albany.

Lark Street and Washington Park

Lark Street is the bohemian neighborhood of Albany, lined with an assortment of small shops, art galleries, ethnic restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and coffee shops. East of Lark Street is the neighborhood of Center Square, a residential neighborhood of fine 19^th century homes and a pleasant place for a walk.

Continuing west from Lark Street is the Frederick Law Olmstead-designed Washington Park, an urban oasis of curvy roads, greens, gardens, and woods. In the summer, be sure to catch one of the plays or musicals at the Park Playhouse here at the Lake House.

Get the view

Before leaving Albany, make sure you visit the observation deck on the 42nd floor of the Corning Tower. This affords views for miles in three directions. It’s open Monday–Friday 10am-4pm. Free admission.

Why Albany?

History is the short answer. Albany is the oldest city in New York and one of the oldest in the nation. Henry Hudson arrived here in 1609 and by the mid-1600s the Dutch had settled a trading post known as Fort Orange. Today it’s a city dominated by the state government and the many institutes of higher education (more than 10 in the surrounding area!)

For many years Albany played an important role as the eastern terminus for the Erie Canal. Over the years it’s been home to writers Bret Harte, Hermann Melville, Henry James; and no less than five presidents got their starts in Albany. (Can you name them?) Today it’s got fine culture: museums, theater, dining, and architecture.

If you go:

The Albany Visitor’s Center is located at 25 Quackenbush Square. Check out Albany.org for more information.

Click through to see more photos of Albany.

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By Stephen Bugno

In the past 14 months, I’ve driven across the United States more than 16,000 miles (25,750 km) during two extended road trips. Some of my earliest travel memories are from a Vegas to Albuquerque road trip through the southwestern US as a nine year-old. Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good journey on the road.

Good road-tripping to me means experiencing the places you travel through by interacting with people, absorbing the landscapes, eating the regional foods, traveling greener, not spending excessive money, supporting the local economy, and slowing down to enjoy yourself.

Stay off the Interstate

This is a point I’ve been trying to drive home for the past few years. The interstate—while occasionally scenic, is never interesting. Nothing worthwhile happens on limited-access divided highways except making good time. Even Steinbeck would agree with me. His 1962 Travels with Charley revolved around avoiding the interstate. If you drive the back roads, the scenic byways, the old US highways, your trip will be much more interesting.

Don’t stop at chains

McDonald’s and Arby’s, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut are not interesting to travelers—nor are they healthy. Mom and Pop dining establishments are generally unique, sometimes quirky and occasionally healthy alternatives. You’re more likely to run into locals and have an opportunity to try regional specialties and even eat local or fresher food. And what’s more important about a place than its cuisine?

Another one that’s important to me: no gas station coffee. It’s worth it to get a good cup of coffee at a coffee shop or diner. At least I know I’m supporting a local business while perpetuating my caffeine dependency.

Photo credit: Juno Kim

BYOS—Bring your own stove

You can’t eat every meal out—nor would you want to. Cooking your own food means a lot of things. One, you’ll be eating healthier. Two, it means you have the chance to buy local, fresh food. One of the greatest pleasures of my recent road trip through New England, was stopping at random farmers’ markets. I was buying vegetables in-season and supporting the local economy and small producers. Many times, coops or individuals will have their own fruit and vegetable stands right outside their homes, so you won’t even need to catch the weekly markets. Shopping this way also gives you an inside look at local food politics and movements (like the availability of grass-feed beef, organic produce, and raw-milk cheese).

Indulge in the local specialties

Taste wine in northern California, feast on lobster in Maine, eat Po’ Boys in New Orleans, have a sourdough breadbowl in San Francisco. This is what makes travelling so much fun.  Vermonters take their cheese seriously and Quebecers are proud of their maple syrup—enjoying their specialties makes them happy. Save your money for what’s important—I’ve always said I’d rather sleep uncomfortably and eat well.

Stop in small towns

This one makes sense all-around. While I don’t agree with my friend Gilbert’s idea that “big cities in the United States are not interesting”, I do see his point. The strengths of the United States are its natural and geologic wonders. Also, I would argue, it’s in the small towns and rural areas that the essence of the nation really shines through. Furthermore, whether it’s Kansas or New Hampshire, people in small towns are really friendly. On an economic level, supporting the economies of the little towns is a good thing—and they are less-expensive than cities. Fewer cities in your itinerary means less traffic, less trouble finding parking spots, less overall stress.

Make it longer—Take it slow

Try to minimize your daily driving and take more time to enjoy the places you’re traveling through. Sometime I plan two days to drive to a place I know I could easily make in one driving day. The truth is, I will find something of interest along the way, and in turn will stop to spend a few hours, even if it’s just to linger over a long coffee or take a walk through a town park. I’ve done plenty of intensive sightseeing and trips with filled itineraries, and while I don’t regret those experiences, I’d still prefer to take it slow and not only “see” things, but try to soak in the atmosphere of the places I’ve traveled so far to see.

Drive slower

Making a few minor adjustments can make your road trip as economic and environmentally-friendly as possible. While driving isn’t the greenest option, it’s still better than flying in most cases. First thing you can do to save gas (petrol) is by slowing down. You’ll get better fuel efficiency by not driving like a maniac. Also try to reduce the amount of stuff you bring along; a heavier car wastes more gas. Additionally, make sure your tires are inflated properly and the engine air filter is clean.

Pack a tent

Traveling with a tent allows the obvious: camping and opportunities for backpacking (trekking). Camping saves money over hotels, and wild camping, if you can find it, saves money over campgrounds. A good tip for camping in the United States is to try to find National Forest land, where you can camp for no fee. This works well in the western US where there is a plethora of public lands. Trekking can be a good way to break up a long road trip. On recent road trips, I hiked multi-day treks in the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Sierra Nevada of California.

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Stephen Bugno has been road-tripping since before he could see over the steering wheel. He’ll brake for free camping, a coffee refill, or to wait for moose to cross the road. He’s just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com