Malacca, Malaysia in Photos

Traveling to some of the touristy towns of China (like Lijiang) and in Vietnam (Hoi An) now one year later, I think back to what a special place Malacca, Malaysia is. Don’t get me wrong, Melacca is a super-touristy town, but why it’s special is that the old district has yet to be taken over by tourism. Most hotels and tourist-oriented business are outside of the historic core. Inside, people of a fascinating mix of cultural identities still live and work. A few hostels, guesthouses, and souvenir stores exist in the old city, but for the most part, they haven’t taken over.

Why Malacca is so interesting

Malacca’s history is fascinating. It has been controlled at times by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British. It was settled by a mix of these cultures as well as the Chinese, who intermixed with the local population to evolve into the Peranakan or Baba-Nyonya, with their own language and customs.

Traveling in Malaysia

My Malaysia trip was packed with so many great memories. Besides loving Malacca, I enjoyed a walking tour of Penang, sipping coffee in bohemian haunts in Kuala Lumpur, seeing the orangutans at Spilok, and jungle trekking in Mulu National Park.

Although it’s not as cheap as neighboring Thailand, Malaysia still represents a good value for traveling. Read this to get an idea of average costs traveling in Malaysia.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

Dali is one of those places that I really hoped I wouldn’t dislike. Its description in the guidebooks made it sound so pleasant a town—except for one thing—the growing number Chinese tourists. Well, there were tons of tourists, but Chinese tourists seem to stick together in group tours and don’t drift very far from the main tourist drag. There is one long pedestrianized street in Dali where the masses appear to meander slowly, stopping and shopping as they go. This street has been architecturally prettied and is crammed with one souvenir shop after another. Turn off this main artery and the city becomes more interesting.

How Dali differs, from say, Lijiang, is that it is actually a city where local people live. In Lijiang, the entire old town population has been pushed out to who-knows-where in favor of tourist stalls, restaurants, and guesthouses.

Dali is a cool place to hang out for a while, and the only town in China that I could foresee myself living. It’s lively without being annoyingly noisy. There is a strong bohemian vibe which has attracted creative types from around China. You’ll find plenty of coffee shops, boutique clothe shops, art galleries, small cafes, live music, and plenty of artists.

Dali is set in an inspiring location. The spiky peaks of the Cang Shan and the stretching Er Hai lake make you want to get up in the morning and create beautiful things. Unlike most of China, the air is pure, the weather favorable, and the climate mild. It sits at about 2000 meters and hikes lead up into the mountains still higher. Inspiration abounds here.

In the surrounding areas on the west side of the lake are towns and villages holding weekly markets. This region is dominated by the Bai ethnic minority. There are great examples of Bai architecture in Xizhou and an interesting Monday market in Shaping.

It’s not easy to navigate the streets of Lijiang’s old town. Timeworn cobbled streets follow steams, bending over ancient stone bridges forming a centuries-old maze. Lijiang is the capital of the Naxi Kingdom, set beneath the spiky Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The Naxi are an ethnic group descended from the Tibetans, settling this region before the 10^th century. Their culture is defined by their shamanistic religion known as Dongba, as well as their strong matriarchal influences.

I had wanted to visit Lijiang for several years now and have to admit, I was quite disappointed. The town’s architecture and setting make it so stunningly beautiful, almost too pretty, that it’s fake. It’s no longer a living town, which was the point most disappointing. Residents have been driven out in favor of souvenir shops, guesthouses, and restaurants. The whole town has been reconstructed and beautified, almost giving us the impression that the place could have been constructed as a cultural theme park.

I’m not suggesting you should skip Lijiang, just be aware that it may be swamped with Chinese tourists when you visit. The crowds may detract from the magic you were expecting from Lijiang. So be warned, Lijiang is the ultimate tourist town. Also it’s bit more expensive than the rest of Yunnan Province. Read further to get an estimate of travel expenses in Yunnan Province.

If flying to China from London, perhaps you’ll find using Gatwick parking a convenient option. Airparks would also be a fine possibility if you have to drive your own vehicle to one of the London airports and need to park it for an extended period.

If you plan on visiting Tiger Leaping Gorge, you might as well stop in Lijiang for a couple days to check it out for yourself. Remember to explore the back streets and smaller alleyways—you may just find the few pleasant un-touristy streets of Lijiang.

Photos and text by Stephen Bugno

Muang Ngoi is a small village on the banks of the Nam Ou River in Northern Laos. It’s a one-street village with no motorized vehicles—the only way to get there is by a one-hour boat ride from Nong Khiaw.

It’s a peaceful place to spend a couple days. There’s only electricity from 6pm to 9pm. Most of your time will probably be spent reading in a hammock with a stellar view of the river and surrounding limestone mountains.

The walking is nice as well—there’s a nearby cave and some villages further out. One called Bana is a settlement of bamboo huts and wooden houses and lots of life about an hour away. It’s definitely worth exploring the area by foot.

Here are some of my photos from four days in Muang Ngoi:

View from the boat to Muang Ngoi

View of the Nam Ou from our bungalow

River Weed Drying

the mountains around Muang Ngoi

fields around the village of Bana

view from Bana village

in Bana village

A house in the Village of Bana

a handicraft in Bana village

on the path to Bana village

Stephen enjoying a Lao coffee at a riverside cafe in Muang Ngoi

Photos and text by Stephen Bugno

A stroll around the Confucian Academy of Jianshui is a serene experience. I visited the day before the Chinese New Year, and the streets of the city were erupting in a constant state of exploding fire crackers. But at the Confucian academy, inside the giant walls that surround this 7.5 hectare complex, a state of serenity reined. I made my way around the large Xue Lake and lilly pond content being sheltered from the outside world.

It is here that worried parents bring their children to kowtow to the statue of Confucius before exams in the summer. The temple here was modeled after the one in Qufu, Confucius’ hometown. Finished in 1285, it’s the third-largest in all of China.

The temple has operated as a school for over 750 years and once held the imperial examinations.

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Although located slightly off the tourist trail, Jianshui has some outstanding sights and proved to be one of my favorite destinations in all of China due to its plethora of traditional architecture and easy-going inhabitants.

Besides the happenings in and around the beautiful Chaoyang Gate, the Zhu Family Gardens is well worth a look. On the outskirts of town, the Twin Dragon Bridge—one of the ten oldest in China—waits to be explored.

Jianshui is a three-hour bus ride south of Kunming in China’s Yunnan Provice.

Admission to the Confucian Academy is 60 CNY ($9.50 US).

To many people, Macau means one thing: casinos. This little special administrative region of China that was both the first and last European colony in Asia, makes more money from gambling than Las Vegas. It’s a hot destination for rich mainland Chinese.

To me it was about visiting an anomaly: a territory with a curious history, a city of attractive architectural leftovers, and tasting a cuisine that fuses the best of Portuguese and Southern Chinese.

I got what I came for. Beautiful mosaic-like, pedestrian-only zones leading to churches named Lorenzo, Agostinho, and Domingos. I dined on Portuguese chicken—a Macanese specialty hot pot dish loaded with chicken, potatoes, onions, sausage, and boiled eggs in a mild coconut-based, curry-like sauce. I sat in nighttime squares lit with yellow streetlamps. I sipped good coffee and nibbled Portuguese pastries.

I also examined the other side of Macau tourism. A quick walk through the floor of Wynn Casino gave me the impression of a very serious gambling scene. No drinking—just straight up sobriety, with a little nicotine to fuel the adrenaline. Majority Chinese at baccarat, roulette, poker, and blackjack tables.

There is also today’s Macau, the city that’s 95% Cantonese/Chinese with noisy traffic, bustling markets, and great Cantonese food. A look through Red Market introduced me to dozens of fish and shellfish I couldn’t name in addition to almost every part of pig. Lin Fung Temple, far from the tourist zone in north Macau, was a great place to witness locals lighting insense and making offerings of fruit and hell money. Nearby, Lou Lim Leoc Garden is an exquisite urban sanctuary with ponds, pavilions, miniature trees, and arching bridges. There I saw a woman practicing what looked like Tai Chi with a sword.

St Domingos Church

Detail of Lin Fung Temple

Lighting Insense at Lin Fun Temple

Shellfish at Red Market

Shellfish for sale at Red Market in Macau

Pig’s Blood

A Butcher at Red Market in Macau

A Street Market in Macau

Roasting Pigeons in Macau

A bridge in Lou Lim Leoc Gardens in Macau

Quebec City has long been a destination I‘ve wanted to visit. Old Quebec, or Vieux-Québec, has a well-known reputation of rich history being the only city north of Mexico that has retained its fortified city walls.

I would further say that along with Guanajuato, Mexico, Quebec City is the most European of cities in the New World. This was, after all, the capital of New France, founded over 400 years ago.

Although initially settled in 1535 after Jacques Cartier landed, France didn’t establish a permanent city here until 1608, under the auspices of explorer Samuel de Champlain. They called it Kebec, from the Algonquian word meaning ‘the river narrows here’.

We started our tour of Quebec in Place Royale, the Old Lower Town’s main square. There is a huge mural depicting all the major players of Quebec’s history. We also heard a fiddler playing some traditional Quebec music.

After walking thoroughly through the Lower Old Town and Upper Old town, we climbed on top of the ramparts and exited through Porte St. Louis where the handsome Hotel du Parlament, Quebec’s Parliament Building, stands. Grande Alle Est led us to Battlefields Park, a gorgeous green that was once the site of a bloody battle between the English and French.

Close by is the Fine Arts Museum, which is partially located in an old restored prison. Following a look at the outstanding collection of Quebecois and Inuit art we headed over to the bohemian district of Rue St-Jean to try one of the many Quebec micro brews on offer at Bar Le Sacrilege.

We were lucky enough to visit during the Expo Quebec and have excellent couchsurfing hosts that helped us with recommendations and guiding us around the city, as well as teaching us about Quebecois culture and history.

The mural at Place Royale

NotreDame des Victoires

Old Lower Town and funicular

Rue du Petit Champlain

Art Decco Palais Montcalm

Art for sale in Quebec City

Le Chateau Frontenac

Basilica Notre Dame de Quebec

View from the city walls

On the Walls of Quebec City

View of the Hotel du Parlement

Hotel du Parlement

Hotel du Parlement front door

Martello Tower 2

Martello Tower 1 in Battlefield Park

Battlefields Park

Battlefields Park and Martello Tower

A maple tree

Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec

A sculpture behind the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec

View of Quebec City from Ile d’ Orleans

Above Old Lower Town

Eating Poutine

See the whole photo set of Quebec City on Flickr.

In March, 2010 I went to Rio de Janeiro for a UN conference. Not without reason this city is so often selected for world meetings. I spent about one week there, staying with a couchsurfer at Jardim Botânico District. The district got its name as it grew around the city’s world-famous Botanical Garden, which is very beautiful as I could see from the bus window. I did not have much time to behave as a real tourist in this city, however I found one day to walk from Jardim Botânico to Copacabana district, which is famous mostly because of its 4 km golden beach. The walk led me around Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, known simply as “Lagoa”, and between two of the numerous hills in Rio: Candagalo and Cabritos.

Lagoa is surrounded by high-rise residential buildings and is the area of the upper-middle class. It is very nice walk, where you can see local people jogging, biking, canoeing and just relaxing, sitting on the benches around Lagoa. Cocoa juice vendors are always around to help you if you are thirsty under the hot sun.  However, when you go closer to the Candagalo or Cabritos hills you can notice that on the slope there are some random slum constructions – favelas; nevertheless, in this area of Rio they are not so spread out as in the northern parts of the city.

On the beach, there are always lots of people enjoying the sunny weather and ocean. The water here is so warm but at the same time is wavy; I could not swim far away from the beach as I usually do. There are many sand sculptures. You can pay in order to take a picture of them; however, I did it for free from the distance.

Without doubt, Rio is one of my favorite cities, even if I did not have much time to explore it. I hope to come back soon.

Text and Photos by Nell Rakhimova

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The Cinque Terre or The Five Lands are five villages in the Liguria region of Italy: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. I recently visited two of them, Manarola and Riomaggiore, during a short vacation in Tuscany and Liguria.

These towns are incredible; they have a special atmosphere of small medieval seaside settlements that have kept their historical face because of the surrounding mountain landscape. Over the centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, but cars cannot reach them from the outside. The Cinque Terre is also famous for the vineyards that surround each town which is a source of pride for local people.

Manarola is the oldest and the second smallest town of the Cinque Terre. Here you can easily access the ocean and “have a bath” during the hotter months. In Riomaggiore, there is boat rental service that gives visitors an opportunity to enjoy the sea.

The Via dell’Amore (Path of Love) is a path connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola. The paved walking path was laid over the rocky cliffs along the sea and is a little more than one kilometer. One part of the path has fences where lovers can place a lock as a symbol of their strong feelings. Another small part passes through a tunnel, where the walls are devoted to declarations of love which anyone can write on.

Text and Photos by Nell Rakhimova

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In all my travels, Turkmenistan has been, by far, the oddest place I’ve visited. Culturally, the Turkmens are “cousins” of the Uzbeks, and I found many similarities in the everyday lives and customs with their Central Asian neighbors. The languages are also similar, both routed in Turkish. These are not the reasons I found Turkmenistan odd. Those reasons have to do with the cult of personality surrounding the then-alive Saparmurat Niyazov—also known as Turkmenbashi, or Leader of Turkmens.

He had large golden statues built for himself, renamed the days of the week and months of the year, and placed himself on the national currency. He wrote a book called the Ruhnama, meant for the “spiritual guidance of the nation”. Because he felt that only the Ruhnama and the Koran were necessary for most Turkmen to read, he closed all libraries in the country outside of Ashgabat. In addition to that, he closed all hospitals around the county because he felt all who were ill should come to the capital for treatment. The list of outrageous decrees and laws continues, like outlawing the opera, ballet, and the circus in 2001.

The absurdity of empty multi-lane roads, new still-empty marble-covered high rises, and endless water fountains in an arid land were my lasting impressions of Ashgabat. I would be curious to see how and if the city has changed since I last visited in 2004, especially since the passing of Turkmenbashi.

Click through to my Flickr gallery to see additional photos of Ashgabat.

Text and photos by Stephen Bugno

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The Ruhnama

Government buildings in Ashgabat

Two monuments in Ashgabat

The large golden statue of Turkmenbashi, which I believe has been removed.

The monument to Lenin in Ashgabat

The Drama Theater in Ashgabat