The following is a guest post.

Valencia

Valencia is Spain’s third city, but it is rising to become one of the most progressive. Trying to equal the cosmopolitan vitality of Barcelona and the cultural diversity of Madrid, it continues to reinvent itself.

Leading the city’s way out of its former provincial reputation is the La Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias, the state-of-the-art City of Arts and Sciences. This alone was Valencia’s city government’s quest to put the city on the world tourism map. It’s a complex of four futuristic-looking buildings designed by Santiago Calatrava. Inside you can see IMAX films, the Science Museum, an aquarium and more.

Valencia is also the home of paella, but it’s better to try this best of Spanish cuisine outside of the city. Try paella in the town of Perellonet or El Palmar or at Playa Levante

South of Valencia is one of the best stretches of beach on this coastline. The finest are between Gandia and Benidorm. Much of this coast, however, suffers from the worst of package tourism, with huge concrete hotels that are eyesore on an otherwise magnificent coast.

Benidorm

Benidorm is a seaside resort on the Costa Blanca in the province of Alicante, Spain. It has a large minority of retired expat British, and is considered the king of package tourism destination. The region is an ideal sun destination no matter what time of year, and the day time temperatures rarely fall below 18C. It has been offering value holidays to over 5 million visitors every year since the 1970′s. There are over 41,000 hotel beds and modern tourist apartments catering mostly to British and Scandinavian sun-seekers. You’ll also consequently find plenty of English pubs, fish and chips, full English breakfasts, and over 200 discos and clubs. But the highlight of Benidorm holidays is undeniably its 2km of golden sand beach.

Although it’s firmly on the beaten path, still consider Benidorm, especially if your winter is cold and rainy. Other places along this coast to check out would be Gandia, Denia, Xabia, and Altea. Nothing quite beats a holiday in Spain during the damp and dreary winters in northern Europe and the U.K.

By Stephen Bugno

Spain is known for its fierce regionalism, which makes traveling to each corner of the country a very different and interesting experience. It’s also known for its food culture, rich history, and fine climate. One warning about Spain: Be careful, because you might end up liking it so much that you don’t leave.

Galicia

The Green Countryside of Galicia.

Galicia is a remote and weathered region in the northwest of Spain. I walked through Galicia for a couple weeks en route to Santiago de Compostela, home to the cathedral that signifies an end for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, or Way of Saint James pilgrimage. Galicia is so green that it reminds me of Ireland. Although the relation is not only superficial; ancient Celts actually settled the region. Galicia is a territory with a people proud of their distinct language, culture, and cuisine. It is also one of the most underrated regions of Spain, with some of the best seafood in the world and a lesser-visited coastline.

Basque Country

San Sebastian's beach

On the coast of the Bay of Biscay in northern Spain, bordering France, is Basque Country. Its fierce regionalism has led to violence in the past, but that’s not what this region should be known for. Its language is an anomaly, unrelated to any of those surrounding it, known as a language isolate. San Sebastian, the queen of Basque resorts, is a universally favorite city in Spain. Nearby Bilbao is home to the iconic Guggenheim museum, and some good surfing. In either city, you can’t go wrong with a night out on the town, sampling the exquisite pintxos (Basque tapas).

Catalonia

Catalonia, in the northeast of Spain, borders France as well. Like other regions, it has its own language, Catalan. Visitors flock to self-confident and progressive Barcelona: the art, style, and food capital of Spain. In fact, Anthony Bourdain has called Catalonia the world’s new premier food destination (yes, even better than France). In addition to great beaches on the Costa Brava, Catalonia is home to the Dali Triangle, the architecture of Gaudi, as well as some of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain.

Madrid

Boating in Madrid's Park del Retiro

I lived in Madrid for almost a year and absolutely loved it. The lifestyle of the madrileños sucks outsiders in and keeps them. Hanging out at the traditional cafes and bars around the city, shopping in the crammed Rastro flee market, and a Sunday stroll through the Parque del Retiro should all be part of your visit. If it’s art you like, Madrid is home to three world-class art museums: the Prado, Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza.

Balearic Islands

Four main islands make up the Balearic chain: Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and Formentera. For the last 30 or so years, the reputation of these Islands has led many German, English, and Scandinavians booking repeated flights to Ibiza. Ibiza is the dance-until-dawn and gay-friendly capital of Europe. The best of the best DJs are flown in from all corners of the continent. Most revelers sleep their hangovers off the following day on any of the fine beaches under nearly-always perfect skies. The Balearic Islands may be mass tourism destinations, but if you look carefully, there are unspoiled and picturesque old-world towns on the island. Consider agro-tourism or exploring the countryside by car or scooter.

Andalusia

A village in Andalusia.

Comprising the southern part of Spain, Andalusia is the most quintessentially Spanish region: a land of bullfighting, flamenco, sherry, and ruined castles. Great cities like Seville, with its towering cathedral and Semana Santa festival; and Granada and Cordoba with their unforgettable Moorish architecture and history. After-all, this land was occupied by Muslims for 700 years. From trekking in Sierra Nevada to the beaches of the famed Costa del Sol, it would almost be criminal to visit Spain without stopping here.  

Getting a more in-depth look into Spain

For a closer look at Spain, its people, and cultures, consider Volunteering with Pueblo Ingles or VaughanTown.

If you’re thinking about teaching English in Spain, read Teaching English in Madrid.

By Avery Sumner

It’s May 15 and I’m still wearing socks and sweaters in the south of France. I’m living in the Pyrenees-Orientales department of France because it boasts the most days of sunshine in the whole country. I came here for the sun, the sea and the mountains—for the famed Mediterranean climate. But being a Floridian (most recently from the sub-tropics of South Florida) I’m finding this sock weather surprising. Compared to Northern France, yes, the Mediterranean climate is heavenly. But my toes have other points of reference and right now they’re pointing ever more southerly.

The problem is every place that pleases my toes tends to please loads of tourists as well. And my heart prefers quieter places. In Florida I lived in Everglades National Park where barefoot weather meets the wild calm of nature. Is it even possible to find such chakra balancing elements anywhere in Europe?

I’m not sure, but the Canary Islands of Spain keep presenting themselves to me. Tenerife in particular. I recently read that “Tenerife Island is probably one of the last European paradise destinations”. Representing the outermost region of the European Union, the volcanic archipelago of the Canaries rises out of the ocean just off the northwest coast of Africa near Morocco and the Western Sahara. My French mate stopped there on his way sailing across the Atlantic a few years ago and on a particularly dismal day this past winter he proposed spending a month or two on Tenerife next year.

But several British friends have also mentioned the island. Apparently it’s a popular holiday spot for Brits—not exactly the best sign for peace and tranquility.

On the other hand, I have a copy of the French magazine Terre Sauvage I bought last summer. The magazine covers those wild and natural corners of the planet far from beach resorts and night clubs. The Canaries are featured in this particular issue. Actually, it’s the immense night sky of the Canaries featured in the earthy mag. It claims the observatory on La Palma to be the second most important astronomical center in the world, next to Mauna Kea in Hawaii. The pristine darkness of the islands’ night sky utterly void of light pollution makes the region exceptional for stargazing. On Tenerife the observatory of Mount Teide is home to over a dozen telescopes. That kind of absence of city lights sounds pretty celestial to me.

Though Tenerife weather does draw sun-bathing, theme-park going tourists to its southern coastline, it’s also home to a national park and nature reserves with sub-tropical and temperate micro-climates that support an incredibly rich biodiversity of flora and fauna. Even more than tourists it seems, Tenerife has attracted crowds of botanists and researchers for centuries, among them Charles Darwin. A New York Times article reported that in an area on Tenerife called the Cruz del Carmen a new species or sub-species is discovered once every six days. A random handful of soil there can easily contain four or five endemic species of insects, reported the same article.

But the most famous natural attraction on the isle is Mount Teide, or Pico del Teide. The highest peak in Spain, this active volcano is the third largest in the world when measured from its base. It presides over 18,900 hectares of protected land of the Teide National Park (Parque Nacional del Teide), an UNESCO World Heritage site. There are approximately 21 posted trails leading to the peak. A free permit issued by the park is required for the last 200 meters.

Tenerife is also rich with less-traveled paths and lesser-known views beyond Mount Teide. Depending on time constraints and levels of expertise one can traverse diverse ecosystems ranging from dry scrublands to rich green fields. With dramatic lunar landscapes and virgin laurel woodlands Tenerife’s backcountry is nothing short of spectacular. Do a little planning and camping permits can be gotten from the Tenerife Cabildo (Island Council) making opportunities to lose oneself in a mysterious volcanic terrain endless.

Photo by Paul Valk

Okay, I think there’s room enough on Tenerife to find the quiet sanctuary of nature my heart seeks. But I’m still worried about my toes. Yeah, Tenerife’s been dubbed the island of eternal spring, but what exactly does that mean? Whose idea of spring are we talking about here? Hopefully not the same perspective that deems the Mediterranean climate so heavenly.

Tourist information sources show year round average temps on Tenerife ranging from 20ºC/68ºF to 30ºC/86ºF. They also say Tenerife’s weather has the lowest temperature difference between summer and winter than any other place in the world thanks to the trade winds. But on the island itself the variety of weather is broad. On Mount Teide cold winds and snow are winter regularities. However on these same winter days there’s enough warmth for sunbathers to bask on Tenerife beaches, so they claim.

All I really want to know is if, and how long, I’d have to wear socks down there. Official weather charts show January and February as the coldest months with average lows of 15ºC/59ºF. Average highs for those same months are 20ºC/69ºF.

My toes can handle that. When are we going?

Avery Sumner lives in Southern France where the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean. When she travels she looks for the natural and simple.

By Noel Lau

The biggest of Spain’s Balearic Islands, five million visitors descend upon Majorca every summer. This island boasts a temperate climate, year-long sunshine and soft sandy beaches that slope gently into the clear, turquoise Mediterranean Sea.

Situated in the Mediterranean Sea, east of mainland Spain, Majorca is connected by ferries to Barcelona and Valencia, and flights to all major European cities.

Palma de Majorca

Majorca has about 20 towns, villages and resorts, each unique in its charm and character. Palma de Majorca, located on the south west of the island, is the capital and largest city. Its 400,000 inhabitants swell to 2-3 million during the summer months.

You can find almost everything here: from budget hotels to five-star hotels, local eateries to fine dining, banks, shops and all kinds of amenities. Among the high-rise apartment blocks are an imposing gothic cathedral and a gothic castle with a spectacular view.

If you want to get away from the concrete and the crowd, take the wooden train from Palma to Soller. The journey takes about an hour and it goes across Majorca’s plain, mountains and through 13 tunnels. The ride offers sweeping views of the countryside and a chance to appreciate the real beauty of the island.

Soller, in the north west of the island, is a picturesque town set in a valley surrounded by Majorca’s highest mountains looking towards the sea. It is one of the best places for hiking and Mountain biking.

Connected to Soller by a series of pathways is the beautiful village of Fornalutx. Its cobblestone houses, winding streets, narrow stone steps and leafy plazas, has made it the most stunning and enchanting village on the island.

The Beaches

Most people go to Majorca for its beaches. With more than 200 fringing this beautiful Mediterranean island’s coastline, they really should not be missed.  Whatever type of holiday you like, Majorca has a beach for you: family fun, relaxed tanning, even if you want to take off all your clothes!

Resort beaches such as Paguera, Magaluf and Palma Nova, boast fine sand, crystal clear water and good tourist infrastructures. They are popular for family, retirees and young hip Europeans who are looking to party.

Among them, Magaluf seems to be very popular with the young British crowd for their stag night parties. So it’s not hard to find cheap Magaluf holidays offer from British tour operators.

By contrast, the famous Es Trenc Beach in the south-east of the island has been protected from development. It is a 2km long beach with fine white sand and crystal clear water. It is popular among families with kids as well as nudists due to its vastness and remoteness.

Cala Varques, a secluded but stunningly beautiful beach, has absolutely no facilities but offers a relaxing location to enjoy total solitude, peace and quiet. Its wildness is such that you may find yourself sunbathing next to cows. Unless you have a boat, it’s a 15 minute hike, but it’s well worth it!

If you really want to get away from it all, head to Coll Baix, a quiet beach with big waves ideal for sunbathing. The only way to get there is by 4×4 vehicles and there are no facilities here. It’s one of the best beaches to get away from the crowd in summer.

Another attraction on the island is the Serra de Tramuntana, a mountain chain that runs along the northwest coast of the island. You can take a scenic drive along the R710 with some wonderful views of the rough mountain scenery and the coast.

There are many hikes and walks you can do on the Serra de Tramuntana. For example, the eight-stage Dry Stone route (or GR221), passes through the mountains crossing from west to east, comes highly recommended.

Local Cuisine

After all day in the beach or hiking, nothing rewards you better than some local cuisine. Majorcan cuisine is quite similar to mainland Spain, in that it consists of a lot of meat, tomatoes and generous splashes of olive oil. Local specialties are Frit Mallorqui (fried leftovers of vegetables and potatoes) and Sopes Mallorquines (simple vegetable soup with meat and wild mushrooms).

Looking for food should be the least of your worries as all menus in this hot spot for summer vacation are in English and German rather than its two official languages, Spanish and Catalan.

With summer just a few months away, it’s the right time to plan for a summer vacation. Although the majority of the tourists come with one of those Majorca holidays tour packages, this enchanting island has something to offer to everyone, including independent travelers.

By Stephen Bugno

What to Eat When You’re Visiting Spain and Where to Find It

Food is definitely one of the highlights of Spain and the regional diversity only makes criss-crossing the country a real culinary pleasure. There are certain specialties that you shouldn’t miss while visiting. From the dry, distinctively Spanish region of Andalucía to green hills and rugged coastline of Galicia, here are my top ten favorite foods from Spain:

Jamon Serrano

Jamon is dry cured ham, thinly sliced from the bone. The pure bread Iberian pig, cerdo iberico, spends a lifetime freely roaming the countryside eating fallen acorns to produce the first-rate, highly sought after variety which can be extremely expensive. Where: Extremadura, in southwestern Spain. The town of Monesterio has a Dia del Jamon (Jamon Day) every year during the first week of September.

Paella

The rice-based dish synonymous with Spanish cuisine often includes some combination of mussels, shrimp, chicken, rabbit, green beans, butter beans, snails, artichokes, and a subtle saffron taste. Although genuine paella Velenciana doesn’t mix meat and fish. Try it in the province of Valencia, specifically in the towns of Perellonet or El Palmar.

Tortilla Español

The Spanish omelet is made from simple ingredients: potatoes, onions, and eggs, prepared on the stovetop. The perfect light meal or snack anytime of day. Where to eat it: any bar in Spain.

Pulpo a la Gallega

Galician Octopus is traditionally cooked in a big copper vat and served on a wooden plate sprinkled with salt and drizzled with olive oil. Find pulpo anywhere in the seafood-rich region of Galicia, in northwest Spain. Wash it down with the young, fresh, cloudy white wine: Ribeiro, a local favorite.

Chorizo

Chorizo is a flavorful and sometimes spicy pork sausage that Spain takes seriously. It gets its deep red color from dried smoked red peppers. Chorizo is eaten everywhere across Spain, but if you get a chance, try it in Cantimpalos, in the province of Segovia, where it is especially good and cured with paprika.

Gazpacho

Served chilled, gazpacho is a refreshing soup from the southern region of Andalucía made with tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, oil, vinegar, garlic, and salt. Sample it throughout the region because recipes differ within Andalucía.

Pimentos de Padron

Small, shallow-fried green peppers served whole and sprinkled with sea salt.  Where to eat them: ideally in Padron, but anywhere in Galicia in the summer is a fine place to try them. If you’ve just finished walking the Camino de Santiago, enjoy pimentos de Padron in Santiago de Compostela. ¡Ten Quidado—one in ten is supposedly hot!

Churros

Dunk these ribbed fried dough rings in coffee for a Spanish breakfast. Or many consider them best eaten with thick, rich chocolate in the morning after a long night of drinking and dancing at the clubs. Where: anywhere in Spain, preferably at a churraria.

Empanada

Although many varieties of empanada can be found throughout South and Central America, this stuffed pastry is originally from Galicia. The Galician variety is usually prepared with cod, chicken, or some variety of shellfish, and baked into a pie with peppers and onions. Find empanada anywhere in Galicia.

Sopa de Ajo

Originally a poor person’s soup, you can now find sopa de ajo in finer restaurants. Made from frying bread in lots of garlic and sprinkled with paprika, the stock is added and complemented with beaten eggs. Where to try it: the region of Castilla.

Stephen Bugno attended both Pueblo Ingles and Vaughn Town in the summer of 2008 and remained in Spain for another nine months teaching English. For more than a decade he has worked, volunteered, and traveled his way around the world. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

This futuristic set of buildings is Valencia, Spain’s stunning Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, or City of Arts and Sciences. Designed by local architects Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela, the project symbolizes the city government’s vision to establish itself as a principal tourist destination.

On the left is the Queen Sofia Palace of the Arts, the opera house which opened in 2005. To the right front of that is Hemisfèric, an Imax Cinema and Planetarium.

Text and photo by Stephen Bugno

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

Dear GoMad Nomad:

These could be your peppers drying in the sun

Currently I am living in Donostia, Basque Country, with my girlfriend. At the end of the month we are likely to move to Madrid, to hunker down over winter. My problem is that neither of us have more than a tourist visa, which entitles us to only three months in Spain. I remembered that you had lived in Madrid for some time, and wondered how you stayed in the country, whether by obtaining a visa, or making occasional runs for a border, to refresh your entry visa, or some other way. I am sick of borders, fronteras, imaginary lines dividing countries.

-Moving to Madrid

And another letter:

Dear GoMad Nomad,

I am looking into teaching English in Spain, but I will just have a tourist visa so I need to do it under the table.  I have an online TEFL certificate but no teaching experience.  Do you know of any good ways of breaking into that with my limitations?

-In new territory

Dear Moving to Madrid and In New Territory:

Unfortunately you can’t just leave the country (or the EU or the Shengen zone) and return immediately. You actually need to leave for three months, because you are permitted only 90 days in a 180-day period. This applies to those from the US, Canada, Australia, Brazil, Argentina, Japan, South Korea, among others.

Fortunately, the Spanish are pretty relaxed at Passport Control and they generally don’t check your stamps very closely. Many EU and Shengen countries don’t even stamp your passport, which may complicate things or may work to your advantage, allowing you to stay extra time.

But…sometime they do check. This is a very real risk. I have a very good friend who was denied entry into Spain because he had already used his 90 days in 180-day period in Shengen countries. He was held at the airport in Madrid for three days before being allowed to return home.

I know plenty of North Americans and Australians that were living and working in Spain illegally, having left and entered multiple times even though they were over their limit. But that was before the economic crises of 2008. Friends of mine that are still teaching English in Spain say the job availability is scarce, so it might not be an optimal time to move to Spain. Read this article for more on teaching English in Spain.

Working without a work visa

Although obviously illegal, there are plenty of US citizens working in Spain without a work permit. If you’re smart, the risk is minimal. Start contacting English schools while you’re still at home to see what kind of response you get. If you’re determined to move to Spain anyhow, just do it. If you can’t find work at a private language academy, you can try to find private tutoring gigs. They usually pay 15-25 Euro per hour.

Getting an extension

I am under the impression that you can apply for an extension to add to your 90-day visa free period. But, as of 2011, this is going to require an apostilled criminal record check from your home country. Go to your local police station in Spain to apply.

Getting a work visa

To get a work visa for Spain, you have to be in your home country to complete the paperwork and take it to a Spanish embassy or consulate. Contact Spanish schools while you’re still in your home country and try and secure a job in May or June in order in order to start work at the beginning of the school year with all the official documents in hand.

The debate continues…

There is quite a debate over all this on different forums on the web. I have read and heard stories that reveal conflicting reports to all the information I just gave you. Please feel free to comment with your personal experience or any information you might have that coincides or conflicts with my views.

Sincerely,

Stephen

Two Programs that Offer English-Speaking Volunteers Full Room and Board

By Stephen Bugno

An evening of jamon and vino tinto at Pueblo Ingles

I’m almost as exhausted as they are, but somehow they keep going. This is supposed to be easy for me, right? English is my native language.

They sun is about to set in our small “English Village” but the Spaniards stay positive, excited, and focused despite the long day. We are far from the urban expanse of Madrid, four hours by bus in the sparsely populated region of Extremadura. We are a group of English speakers volunteering at Pueblo Ingles for a week.

Free Room and Board for Speaking English?

That’s right. At either Pueblo Ingles or Vaughan Town, (two different companies that run similar English immersion programs for Spaniards) volunteering as an Anglo-speaker gets you a free week in rural Spain. But it’s much more than that. It’s a great opportunity to meet and form close relationships with Spanish people in a surprisingly short period of time.

It’s also a great way to extend your travels, add something different to your usual holiday, or just save some money on your expensive European vacation. But most of all, it’s an opportunity to do something out of the ordinary in our modern age of fast-paced living and working and just sit down and have a conversation. Well…have lots of conversations, actually.

The Model

in the village of La Alberca

So here’s the concept: pair about 20 Spaniards with 20 native English speakers in a village in rural Spain. Live together, eat together, and speak together about 14 hours a day. It’s exhausting, yes, but universal agreement in the success among the much-improved English of the Spaniards and the satisfaction of happily enriched Anglos.

The core of the program is the one-to-one sessions. During these 50-minute blocks, pairs have the opportunity to stretch past simple and superficial chats. You can sit and drink coffee or go for slow walks. After only five full days, it’s remarkable how open and close everyone becomes, not only with the Spaniards, but even with the other English speakers which come from a diverse range of countries including the U.K., Ireland, Canada, the U.S., Australia, and New Zealand just to name a few.

Besides the one-to-ones, pairs sometimes join up to form groups of four to discuss issues or solve mock problems. In addition, an hour a day is devoted to various entertainments. There’s even a special program one of the nights.

Requirements for Volunteers

Spaniards at Pueblo Ingles

Basically, Anglo volunteers need to be native speakers and have enough life experiences to keep them talking for up to 14 hours per day. They must also pledge that not a word of Spanish will be spoken by them the entire week; a promise that is taken seriously. An English-only environment is crucial to the success of the program.

Volunteers are offered a nice, private room and three meals a day in a beautiful rural setting in the Spanish countryside. Volunteers are required to take care of their own travel expenses to and from Spain and for accommodation before and after the program. Pueblo Ingles runs a seven-day course and Vaughan Town a five-day.

For More Information

Further information and applications can be found and filled out on-line at the VaughanTown or Pueblo Ingles websites. Programs run year round but most are available from June to September.

Stephen Bugno attended both Pueblo Ingles and Vaughn Town in the summer of 2008 and remained in Spain for another nine months teaching English. For more than a decade he has worked, volunteered, and traveled his way around the world. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com