Walking in Your Footsteps

On the forest floor, little light gets through, even in the middle of the afternoon. There isn’t much underbrush.  The air temperature is cool and a little bit damp. What I notice most is the quietness. Prehistoric quietness.

I am walking through a redwood grove. It is the biggest contiguous old growth redwood forest in the world. Rockefeller Forest in Humboldt Redwoods State Park was created in 1929 with a two million dollar check by whom else: John D. Rockefeller, Jr. himself. Before this it was owned by the Pacific Timber Company.

It’s best to walk through a Redwood grove by yourself, to enjoy the quietness, the stillness, the humility of being such a small and insignificant being among these ancient giants.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

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By Stephen Bugno

When I think of Vermont, I think about the Green Mountains, skiing, and dairy cows. I also think about beer. Vermont is tops when it comes to New England Brewing. In a region saturated with great beer, Vermont shines.

Much of my recent road trip through the northeastern United States revolved around brewery hopping. Unfortunately, the week before I arrived in Vermont, Hurricane Irene struck, and left much of Vermont in a state of disrepair. Bridges had been taken out, villages left in shock, farms flooded.

The Alchemist Pub and Brewery, which had been recommended to me by several beer connoisseurs, got flooded out in the town of Waterbury.

So instead of telling you the beer tour I actually took, I will tell the Vermont beer tour of my dreams.

The Breweries of Northern Vermont

After Waterbury, ideally I would head north to Rock Art Brewery. They run tours on Friday & Saturday at 2 and 4pm. Tastings run Wednesday to Saturday until 5:30pm with the purchase of a $3 souvenir glass. I didn’t get a chance to visit Rock Art, but did try a bottle of their Double Porter Smoked, which was absolutely fantastic. Visit Rock Art Brewery at their new facility at 632 Laporte Rd./Rt 100 Morrisville, VT. Ph: 802-888-9400.

A 45 minute drive east of Morrisville is Greensboro Bend. Here you can stop to visit Hill Farmstead Brewery. The retail store is open every Wednesday through Saturday from 12-5pm, and the only place you can purchase bottles of their beer. Visit Hill Farmstead Brewery at 403 Hill Road in Greensboro Bend, VT. Phone:  802 533 7450.

Twenty-five miles further east is Trout River Brewing in Lyndonville, VT. Phone: (802) 626-9396. Visit on Fridays or Saturdays from 4-9 pm.

The Southern Route

Harpoon

At the first mention of Harpoon, I thought “oh, they’re too big for my micro-brew tour.” But my friend George insisted that I give them a try, and I’m certainly glad I did. Although their bigger main brewery is in Boston, this second brewery location was set up in Windsor, VT, just across from New Hampshire on the famous Windsor-Cornish Covered Bridge.

The beer is not only tasty at Harpoon, but the tour is a lot of fun and the folks who work there are cool. They’ll teach you all kinds of nifty facts like only 6% of beer sales in the United States are of the micro-brewed variety. That leaves 94% to Miller, Coors, etc. (which are ALL foreign owned). Another little tidbit I learned was Leviathan, the name of their high gravity series, means “sea monster” in Hebrew.  Another highlight of the tour was the opportunity to taste the unfiltered “green beer”. At the end is a proper beer tasting with most of their Harpoon, UFO, and Leviathan beers included.

Harpoon Brewery is located at 336 Ruth Carney Drive in Windsor, VT. Phone: (802) 674-5491. Tastings are $5 and include a guided tour followed by a tasting. Tours are available on Friday at 5pm, 6pm, and 7pm; Saturday from 11-5pm (starting every hour), and on Sunday from 12-4pm (starting every hour). The Beer Garden is open until: 6pm. Web: http://www.harpoonbrewery.com

Long Trail

I hoped to make it to Long Trail Brewery, but alas, Irene was to blame again. Bridgewater Corners was a soggy island and unfortunately, I never got to try drafts at the source of their fine brew. But I’ve drunk plenty of their beer in bottles, which is OK because their packaging is so cool (check out their Double Bag label). Long Trail Brewery is open from 10-7pm and is located at the corner of Route 4 & Rt 100A in Bridgewater Corners, VT. Web: http://www.longtrail.com

Otter Creek

Located just outside of Waterbury, VT, I had wanted to visit Otter Creek Brewery since my first sip of Stovepipe Porter one winter long ago. I finally got my chance. Although their brewery is no longer open for tours, they do have a pub with big glass walls that peer into the brewery. They offer a tasting of six four-ounce pours of your choice for $6. Don’t leave without trying the Black IPA and the Wolaver’s Organic Oatmeal Stout.

Otter Creek is located at 793 Exchange St. in Middlebury, VT . Ph: 802 388 0727.  Open daily 11am-6pm. Web: http://www.ottercreekbrewing.com/

Now get out there and go taste beer

This beer tour of Vermont was designed so that a very ambitious taster could do it all in a weekend. The northern route would have to be done on Saturday and the southern route on Sunday. In a perfect world, Saturday night would be spent in Waterbury sipping brews until the early hours at the Alchemist and retiring for the night at a local B&B.

So take a friend along to drive you the course and take off Monday to spend hiking all those empty calories off in the Green Mountains!

See more photos from my Vermont Beer Tour.

Thanks for the great beer, micro-brewers of the Green Mountain State!

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Stephen Bugno beer-toured his way through Colorado and Northern California during the summer of 2010 and through New England in 2011. Porter is his favorite type of beer and he’s extremely grateful to be living in the Golden Age of beer in the United States. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com. Follow him on Facebook.

Almost 7,000 years ago, the 12,000-foot-high Mt. Mazama blew its top, caved in on itself, and eventually formed the United States’ deepest lake. Today it is known as Crater Lake, although technically it lies in a caldera. Crater Lake is the crown jewel of the Northwest’s Cascade Range. Its depth of 1,943 ft. (592 meters) absorbs all colors of the spectrum, except for blue and violet, which are reflected back to the sky, giving the spectacular blue appearance of the lake.

The Crater Lake National Park was established in 1902 to protect the unique geology of the lake and its surroundings. Unlike many National Parks in the US, development is minimal at Crater Lake, leaving plenty of uncontaminated views. Numerous hiking trails are accessible from the park’s Rim Drive. I hiked to the top of Mt. Scott, for magnificent views of the lake. There are also boat trips to the cinder cone Wizard Island and cross-country skiing and snow shoeing opportunities in winter.

Visiting Crater Lake was one of the main destinations of my 11,000-plus mile cross-country road trip in 2010.

If you go:

Crater Lake National Park is located about 5 ½ hours south of Portland and 7 ½ hours north of San Francisco. The 33-mile Rim Drive is usually closed mid-October through July due to the massive snow accumulation. The Visitor’s Center, located on the south side of the lake is open year round, 8:30am-4:30pm. The park has 210 campsites and a lodge. Admission is $10 per vehicle.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

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View of Crater Lake from the top of Mt Scott.

The cinder cone, Wizard Island.

Crater lake in the gleaming sun.

View of the forests and mountains surrounding Crater Lake.

On the north side of Crater Lake.

Welcome to Crater Lake sign.

I hadn’t visited Gettysburg since I went with the Boy Scouts back in the mid 90’s. Upon returning, I set off to find out if Gettysburg could be interesting for international visitors. The fact that the results of this war changed the course of world history cannot be debated. But that doesn’t mean that visiting the Gettysburg National Military Park is interesting to foreign visitors.

What happened at Gettysburg?

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania was the three-day scene of one of the bloodiest war battles the world has ever seen, not to mention the small town’s aftermath dealing with the thousands left wounded and dying in the fields around town. The battle was the biggest of the American Civil War and a great victory for the Union forces, thus proving to be a turning point in the war. But it could have easily been a Confederate victory if it weren’t for certain strategic blunders by the Southern generals.

Planning your time in Gettysburg

There’s plenty to see in Gettysburg. I recently spent two days there and reckon I could’ve stayed another. Most visitors, however, could be satisfied with two full days.

Start your tour at the Visitor’s Center. The Gettysburg National Military Park is run by the National Park Service, and the Visitor’s Center has been recently renovated. Don’t miss the outstanding video which helps give background information and explain the context of the battle in the War as well as explaining the troop movements and tactics used by the generals.

Next you’ll visit the battlefields. As you drive/cycle/walk around the serene battlefields, consider this: multiply every cannon you see by six, the actual number used during the fight. Every monument you see faces the enemy. This might appear odd in some places now, where a monument faces a wood. But for the past 12 years, the park service has been securing property and transforming the battlefield to exactly the way it was in July of 1863. This means cutting down trees, re-planting orchards, etc.

Another thing to remember, one that the townsfolk like to remind us of: the streets of Gettysburg were the battlefield too, not just the open fields surrounding town.

To get an idea of how the common citizens of Gettysburg endured the battle and aftermath, head to the Shriver House, an excellent little museum that shows us the inside of the Shriver family home as it was during July 1863. The guides tell us the personal story of how these individuals survived the three days of horrific fighting. The house-cum-museum was recommended to me and I’d agree it’s one of the best in town.

During the tour of the Shriver House, we were reminded of facts like the stench in town and how it lasted until November. When 70,000 horses and 160,000 men have no proper toilet facilities, that’s going to be hard on the nostrils. Not to mention the decomposition of 8,000 deceased soldiers and 5,000 dead horses. Townsfolk walked around town holding handkerchiefs with peppermint oil close to their nose.

Another quick but worthwhile stop is the David Wills House. Newly restored, it was the location where President Lincoln spent the night before giving “a few appropriate remarks”, which we know as his unforgettable Gettysburg Address.

American History or World History?

True this was the United States Civil War, but really it is world history. How important was the outcome of this war? If the United States had become two separate countries in the 19^th century, the world would undoubtedly be a very different place today. Remember, Gettysburg was the pivotal battle of the war. It changed the direction and momentum of the conflict as a whole.

Beyond the Military Park

Before leaving, check out the Eisenhower Historic Site. It’s a refreshing change of pace from all the intensive civil war-period information. And it goes along with our international theme. Who could be more international than Dwight D. Eisenhower? General of the allied forces in World War II, 34th President of the United States, and first supreme commander of NATO. He chose to retire in Gettysburg, the place where he first came for military training. Touring the Eisenhower farm is step back in time—to Mamie Eisenhower’s 1950’s and 60’s where the interior design was distinctly like my grandmother’s old house.

There are plenty of other small museums around town, and numerous ghost tours on offer. Just strolling through town is also pleasant. Noted by a plaque on the facade, you’re able to see which buildings were standing during the civil war era.

Practical details

Once well-connected with rail links and several roads, this was the reason Gettysburg was so desirable for the Confederate forces to capture. Today, although still well-connected by the same roads, Gettysburg remains off-the-beaten-path for most international visitors that are whizzing from New York to Philadelphia to Washington, DC. Those foreign travelers that do make it are mostly from Canada, the U.K., and Australia.

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania is located about two hours north of Washington, DC and two-and-a-half hours west of Philadelphia. Hotel and restaurants are plentiful; Gettysburg accommodates 3 million visitors each year.

By Stephen Bugno

The Empire State Plaza of Albany, New York

Getting Oriented

A great way to get oriented with Albany is by taking a tour with the Albany Aqua Ducks. Popular with both locals and visitors, the tour takes guests first by driving through the streets of the city and second on the Hudson River taking advantage of the dual nature of the amphibious vehicle. You’ll learn plenty of facts about Albany that you hadn’t already known and you’ll get to wiz past the sites you can return back to when yo have more time.

Alternatively, take a self-guided walking tour around Albany. Start by picking up a map and guide at the Visitor’s Center at 25 Quackenbush Square and navigate yourself past notable theaters, old churches, ornate houses, grand buildings and the river that gave rise to this city.

Museums

Albany’s two premier museums are the New York State Museum and the Albany Institute of History and Art, both worth the time and effort to visit.

Located on the southern end of the Empire State Plaza is the mammoth New York State Museum, the largest and oldest state museum in the country. It’s divided into three main exhibit areas: New York Metropolis, Adirondack Wilderness, and Upstate New York Native American peoples; in all covering a billion years of earth’s history. The displays are life-sized dioramas, sound and video shows, historical artifacts, and scientific specimens. Especially moving is the September 11^th exhibit. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Free admission.  More info:  http://www.nysm.nysed.gov/

What’s interesting about the Albany Institute of History and Art is the fact that it’s not just an art museum. It’s strives and succeeds to integrate both disciplines of art and history. The art and objects contained within tell the bigger story and try to explain in many cases how Albanians have lived through the past three centuries. Don’t miss the Hudson River school collection—the first American School of painting. Founded in 1791 the Institute of History & Art is one of the oldest museums in the United States. Wednesday–Saturday: 10:00am–5:00pm. Sunday: Noon–5:00pm. Admission: $10.  More info: http://www.albanyinstitute.org/

Architectural Highlights

The most distinguishable architectural complex of Albany is that of the Empire State Plaza. It’s a monumental area taking up the space of 40 city blocks including The Egg, Corning Tower, the New York State Museum, and additional government buildings.

The New York State Capital is worth a closer inspection, both outside and in. They offer free self-guide tours. While you’re downtown, take a walk past some other highlights like the State University of NY building, the old Union Station, City Hall, the New York State Education Building, and the Alfred E. Smith Building. Overall I was quite impressed by the architecture of Albany.

Lark Street and Washington Park

Lark Street is the bohemian neighborhood of Albany, lined with an assortment of small shops, art galleries, ethnic restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and coffee shops. East of Lark Street is the neighborhood of Center Square, a residential neighborhood of fine 19^th century homes and a pleasant place for a walk.

Continuing west from Lark Street is the Frederick Law Olmstead-designed Washington Park, an urban oasis of curvy roads, greens, gardens, and woods. In the summer, be sure to catch one of the plays or musicals at the Park Playhouse here at the Lake House.

Get the view

Before leaving Albany, make sure you visit the observation deck on the 42nd floor of the Corning Tower. This affords views for miles in three directions. It’s open Monday–Friday 10am-4pm. Free admission.

Why Albany?

History is the short answer. Albany is the oldest city in New York and one of the oldest in the nation. Henry Hudson arrived here in 1609 and by the mid-1600s the Dutch had settled a trading post known as Fort Orange. Today it’s a city dominated by the state government and the many institutes of higher education (more than 10 in the surrounding area!)

For many years Albany played an important role as the eastern terminus for the Erie Canal. Over the years it’s been home to writers Bret Harte, Hermann Melville, Henry James; and no less than five presidents got their starts in Albany. (Can you name them?) Today it’s got fine culture: museums, theater, dining, and architecture.

If you go:

The Albany Visitor’s Center is located at 25 Quackenbush Square. Check out Albany.org for more information.

Click through to see more photos of Albany.

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By Stephen Bugno

In the past 14 months, I’ve driven across the United States more than 16,000 miles (25,750 km) during two extended road trips. Some of my earliest travel memories are from a Vegas to Albuquerque road trip through the southwestern US as a nine year-old. Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good journey on the road.

Good road-tripping to me means experiencing the places you travel through by interacting with people, absorbing the landscapes, eating the regional foods, traveling greener, not spending excessive money, supporting the local economy, and slowing down to enjoy yourself.

Stay off the Interstate

This is a point I’ve been trying to drive home for the past few years. The interstate—while occasionally scenic, is never interesting. Nothing worthwhile happens on limited-access divided highways except making good time. Even Steinbeck would agree with me. His 1962 Travels with Charley revolved around avoiding the interstate. If you drive the back roads, the scenic byways, the old US highways, your trip will be much more interesting.

Don’t stop at chains

McDonald’s and Arby’s, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut are not interesting to travelers—nor are they healthy. Mom and Pop dining establishments are generally unique, sometimes quirky and occasionally healthy alternatives. You’re more likely to run into locals and have an opportunity to try regional specialties and even eat local or fresher food. And what’s more important about a place than its cuisine?

Another one that’s important to me: no gas station coffee. It’s worth it to get a good cup of coffee at a coffee shop or diner. At least I know I’m supporting a local business while perpetuating my caffeine dependency.

Photo credit: Juno Kim

BYOS—Bring your own stove

You can’t eat every meal out—nor would you want to. Cooking your own food means a lot of things. One, you’ll be eating healthier. Two, it means you have the chance to buy local, fresh food. One of the greatest pleasures of my recent road trip through New England, was stopping at random farmers’ markets. I was buying vegetables in-season and supporting the local economy and small producers. Many times, coops or individuals will have their own fruit and vegetable stands right outside their homes, so you won’t even need to catch the weekly markets. Shopping this way also gives you an inside look at local food politics and movements (like the availability of grass-feed beef, organic produce, and raw-milk cheese).

Indulge in the local specialties

Taste wine in northern California, feast on lobster in Maine, eat Po’ Boys in New Orleans, have a sourdough breadbowl in San Francisco. This is what makes travelling so much fun.  Vermonters take their cheese seriously and Quebecers are proud of their maple syrup—enjoying their specialties makes them happy. Save your money for what’s important—I’ve always said I’d rather sleep uncomfortably and eat well.

Stop in small towns

This one makes sense all-around. While I don’t agree with my friend Gilbert’s idea that “big cities in the United States are not interesting”, I do see his point. The strengths of the United States are its natural and geologic wonders. Also, I would argue, it’s in the small towns and rural areas that the essence of the nation really shines through. Furthermore, whether it’s Kansas or New Hampshire, people in small towns are really friendly. On an economic level, supporting the economies of the little towns is a good thing—and they are less-expensive than cities. Fewer cities in your itinerary means less traffic, less trouble finding parking spots, less overall stress.

Make it longer—Take it slow

Try to minimize your daily driving and take more time to enjoy the places you’re traveling through. Sometime I plan two days to drive to a place I know I could easily make in one driving day. The truth is, I will find something of interest along the way, and in turn will stop to spend a few hours, even if it’s just to linger over a long coffee or take a walk through a town park. I’ve done plenty of intensive sightseeing and trips with filled itineraries, and while I don’t regret those experiences, I’d still prefer to take it slow and not only “see” things, but try to soak in the atmosphere of the places I’ve traveled so far to see.

Drive slower

Making a few minor adjustments can make your road trip as economic and environmentally-friendly as possible. While driving isn’t the greenest option, it’s still better than flying in most cases. First thing you can do to save gas (petrol) is by slowing down. You’ll get better fuel efficiency by not driving like a maniac. Also try to reduce the amount of stuff you bring along; a heavier car wastes more gas. Additionally, make sure your tires are inflated properly and the engine air filter is clean.

Pack a tent

Traveling with a tent allows the obvious: camping and opportunities for backpacking (trekking). Camping saves money over hotels, and wild camping, if you can find it, saves money over campgrounds. A good tip for camping in the United States is to try to find National Forest land, where you can camp for no fee. This works well in the western US where there is a plethora of public lands. Trekking can be a good way to break up a long road trip. On recent road trips, I hiked multi-day treks in the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Sierra Nevada of California.

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Stephen Bugno has been road-tripping since before he could see over the steering wheel. He’ll brake for free camping, a coffee refill, or to wait for moose to cross the road. He’s just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

People say you’ve got to see Vermont in the autumn, when the fall foliage is spectacular. But I think the state is gorgeous in the summer, when the mountains are green, just like their name suggests. Some would argue that winter in Vermont, with alpine and Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, and other winter sports, is the time to go.

The Green Mountains of Vermont are such the defying feature of the state, that the state is actually named “green mountain” from the literal French translation. There is only one real city in Vermont, the rest of the state is rural with small towns in the river valleys. The Green Mountains are visible nearly everywhere and almost any hike, bike ride, or drive, is a scenic one.

I recently spent a couple days hiking in the Green Mountains. In the Breadloaf Wilderness of the Green Mountain National Forest, I connected onto the Long Trail, which actually predates the more famous (and longer) Appalachian Trail. The Long Trail is the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the United States, created between 1910 and 1930, snaking its way 272 miles from the border of Massachusetts to Canada.

Text and photos by Stephen Bugno

Stephen Bugno has just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog!  Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

A Taste of Alaska

By Michael Bugno

I’m a city boy through and through; nothing gets me more excited than the hustle and bustle of the crowds on a New York City street, the smell of roasted peanuts at the Nuts4Nuts cart, or the flashing lights of Broadway in Time Square. I like to be where the action is; however, even I need a break from the city, a city that so enormous that they had to name it twice: NY, NY.

Once I decided on a trip to Alaska, I was immediately amazed by how many folks, all from the lower 48, assumed I was going on a cruise. When I thought about cruising Alaska, my mind instantly turned to visions of retirees looking at glaciers through binoculars while standing on the deck of a cruise ship. I wanted an action- packed vacation full of adventure and excitement. I wanted to know the culture, not just the glaciers. So I said to myself, WWAD? (What would Alaskans do?) And so with that in mind, I departed Philadelphia for Anchorage, rented a car, and my adventures began.

Acting as an Anchorage Local

A wise old sage we meet on the Hike to Flattop Mountain, outside of Anchorage, Alaska

I arrive late, around dinnertime and what better to do than to head to Humpy’s, a local Anchorage bar. Tonight it’s Little Neck Clams and an Alaskan Amber. Served with a few slices of bread to dip in the broth and to eat with the clams, I quickly discover liquid crack, and like a good narcotic, I’m hooked!  Darwin’s Theory, another great local bar where more Alaskan Amber and Alaskan White is consumed is next on the list. I prefer the Alaskan white, similar to a hefeweizen. Much to my surprise, I learn at Darwin’s Theory that most Alaskans are actually transplants and all were extremely hospitable.  

The next morning I arrive at the Anchorage Museum, which was beautifully renovated and serves as home to some amazing pieces from the Emergence: Contemporary Native Art and Design Exhibit. I could have spent days there reflecting on all that I saw. Next stop, Chugach State Park, complete with a hike to Flattop Mountain that leads me to a grandmother picking wild blueberries. From this wise sage, I learn that Alaskan’s do a lot of canning and preserving of fruits and vegetables because it’s so expensive to ship fruits and vegetables to Alaska. Additionally, since it doesn’t get too terribly warm here, their growing season is quite short and they need to make the most of this window of opportunity.

Why Whittier? Why ask why?

Once I leave Anchorage, I drive the scenic Seward Highway to Whittier. As I drive, the Turnagain Arm, I don’t think photos or my description can do these mountains justice, their majestic heritage is displayed all around me. Simple in grandeur, trees line the lower half and glacier-sculpted rocks consume the top portion. It seems soft like silk, with a smooth drapery of snow that rests like hot fudge on an amazing rocky road sundae.

Jack the Moose - Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center - Portage, AK

At the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, I visit Jack the Moose – yes, he even has a Facebook page with more friends than I do. It’s quite humbling! I find myself back on the road to Whittier because honestly, who wouldn’t want to travel through a one-way tunnel that only allows cars into it on the half hour and out on the hour? It’s quite the experience. If you’re headed through here, make sure you check the time because the tunnel closes at 11pm for the night, so once you’re in, you’re in.

Being a foodie, I’d be remiss if I did not mention that Swiftwater Seafood Café has the most amazing Pacific Cod fish and chips. The cod, like butter, melts on the tongue. Even those who don’t like fish would think twice once they tasted this dish. The cod was fried ever so lightly with a thin dusting of breadcrumbs. And let’s not forget the Rhubarb Crisp for dessert, topped with vanilla bean ice-cream. What a perfect way to end a meal. Looking back on the trip, I realize that Alaskan’s fry food perfectly; others had overcooked the fish to death, killing any trace of true flavor.

Blueberries Anyone?

Waking up in Whittier gave me a glorious view of Prince William Sound. With the morning sun rising slowly, the mountains and water illuminated to perfection! The stillness of the water is breathtaking—a still mirror that reflects the beauty that surrounds it. Breakfast at the Lazy Otter – complete with eggs and reindeer sausage (sorry Rudolph); Reindeer sausage is a lighter and less potent version of kielbasa. The best thing, too, is that the taste doesn’t make a return visit like traditional kielbasa. Those of you who know kielbasa know all too well what I’m talking about. My apologies to all my Polish ancestors.

Glaciers en route to Portage Pass - Portage, Alaska

Back through the tunnel and off to Hotel Alyeska for the Alyeska Resort Blueberry Festival. If you’re thinking I’m going to talk about the amazing blueberries, you’re wrong. I would have, but sadly, there were none. Who hosts a blueberry festival without blueberries? In their defense, they had blueberry wine, but it was early and I was driving to Seward. Before that, I stop to hike the Portage Pass and to see my first glacier in person, but not from the deck of a cruise ship. As I sat and soaked in the view, many glaciers sat in beautifully blue water, like ice cubes in my freshly shaken Blue Hawaiian cocktail. It was intoxicating!

One fish, two fish – red fish, FRESH Fish

A tour guide told me that it rained last summer for 32 days straight, so to have amazing weather thus far, I was truly lucky. Rain was in the forecast today, so I suited in my Gortex, and headed to the docks for my noon tour of Resurrection Bay with the Kenai Fjords Tour. With an hour to spare, I check out the sites around town. I see a local fisherman guide hanging fish for that “prize photo shoot” with the fishermen that caught it, so I do what most tourists would do; I join in and start taking pictures. They hose off the fish and begin filleting them; Halibut, Salmon and Cod are the feature fish for the day. You don’t see that every day in NY, NY.

Lineup of Fresh Salmon - Seward, AK

Intrigued at the speed and precision of these fish being filleted, I start talking to the guide. He’s been doing this for years and can obviously multitask; he talks to me and fillets like the wind at the same time. I’m amazed.  He must sense the foodie in me, since he cuts a piece of raw salmon for me to taste; the result: it is the freshest sashimi I have ever tasted. As he continues to fillet the fish, a plethora of fish eggs appears – hello salmon roe. He tells me that I can eat as much as I want. The salmon roe melts in my mouth like the oozing chocolate from a warm soufflé.

On my boat tour of Resurrection Bay, I see hoards of puffins. To add to this, I see my first bald eagle outside captivity. I instantly realize that eagles possess all the qualities they stand for: pride, vigilance, confidence.

Living Glacier

Up and out to Nellie’s for breakfast, that’s Alaska Nellie’s place. Talk about a pioneer; this woman helped the lives of many panning for gold in Alaska. It’s a place rich with history and nostalgia. With a short drive, I’m off to hike Exit Glacier, a massive but rapidly melting glacier. While hiking, I see a sign with a picture of visitors from 1998; it’s amazing how much of this mass has actually disappeared in just 13 years. If this doesn’t make you want to pay attention to climate change, I don’t know what will.

The author in front of Exit Glacier, a glacier derived from the Harding Icefield in the Kenai Mountains of AK

As I sit and reflect upon this massive piece of solid ice, I overhear a guide say, “If you close your eyes, you can still sense the mass of ice before you. Feel its ‘breath’ as air by the glacier sinks, creating a catabolic wind. Listen to the creaks and groans telling you that gravity is pulling Exit Glacier down the slope. Hear the melted water flow through the cracks in the ice – sometimes in small drips, sometimes in raging currents. Now open your eyes and look for the glacier’s signature blue glow in deep crevasses. When light passes through ice this thick, all the colors of the spectrum are absorbed except blue.” This is a living, breathing metaphor for beauty.

Rafting vs. Cruising

I mentioned I wouldn’t be “cruising” this vacation, but that doesn’t mean I won’t experience the waters of Alaska. I would strongly recommend the “Upper Kenai Scenic Float Tour” with Alaska Rivers Company in Cooper Landing, followed by a 1.5 mile hike of Skilak Loops’ Hideout Trail. This is where I had the distinct pleasure of meeting some new friends that even dined with me and my friend at Sackett Kenai Grill; I strongly recommend the Cod Fish Tacos, and so do my new friends!

Suzanne and Michael at the Alaska Rivers Company - Cooper Landing, AK.

Throughout my adventure, there is not a cloud in the sky. As I hike the mountain, I stop to soak in its beauty and it occurred to me that there was nothing in sight except for the breathtaking bounty nature has to offer me.  I didn’t see a single home, road, tower, or person throughout.  It was simply me with God’s magnificent mountains, this flowing river and still lake. All around me, Alaskan fireweed swept down the mountainside like a dusting of pink chiffon. It’s times like this that I realize the philosophy of yin-yang is a good thing – the concrete jungle where dreams might be made could never compete with the majestic beauty of Alaskan scenery scape.

Words of inspiration from Joan

On my drive to Homer, via Cook Inlet, I stop in Clam Gulch and the Russian town of Ninilchik. As I peer out the window on this clear day, I see the illustrious Mt. McKinley, yet it’s over 500 miles away, but the visage is near perfect! Upon my arrival, I head to Homer Spit. Having just turned 35 years old, I’ve been awaiting this epiphany to learn where I’m supposed to be in life: should I still be working in Corporate America?; should I sell my home?; if I die today, what mark will I have I left in this world?; what have I done that would bring meaning to my life or to others’ lives?

Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik, AK - Established in the 1820's, Ninilchik is the oldest community on Kenai Peninsula.

Then, enter Joan from Maryland, who recently relocated to Homer, AK and who recently married after the passing of her first husband. Her new husband, Bill, who lost his wife, was a neighbor of Joan’s. From these two tragedies, a great love story emerged. As I share my story with Joan, she affirms my many thoughts and reminds me that decisions in life are not a sentence. Indeed, we can always change our minds about where it is we believe we should be. She continues to say that she has learned to live in the moment; we don’t always have tomorrow, so there’s no need trying to live five or ten years in the future. At some point, we have to live our lives for ourselves. And like the eagle hatching from its egg, the time comes when we must leave the comfort of the nest, spread our wings, and fly on the open air. We must allow the wind to take us to where it is we believe we belong.

Food Glorious Food

Breakfast at Two Sisters, the pecan sticky bun is fantastic! Warmed to perfection, and with the biggest pecans I’ve ever seen, I had a hard time sharing this with my best friend, Suzanne. Sharon, owner and master baker, has a gold mine! I begged her to come to Philly and to open a Two Sisters there. I’m afraid if you want to taste her masterful creations, however, you’ll have to go to Alaska!  In my adventure to do what Alaskans would do, I head to the Norman Lowell Gallery; he’s been painting the beauty of Alaska for over 20 years. I’ve never seen an artist use so many mediums and actually capture the reality of the image so perfectly. That afternoon, I venture back to the Spit and eat at Captain Patties. A trio of broiled halibut, salmon, and prawns serves as my final meal, like a soul on death row. The reality of this final dinner is a rude awakening for me because tomorrow I will be back in city of Brotherly Love, the land of “wiz” on cheesesteaks. Little fresh, buttery, and scrumptious fishies – how I will miss you so!

My brother is a world traveler and often goes exploring alone. To me, travel is more precious when shared with someone. I’m glad I was able to explore Alaska with my friend and photographer, Suzanne Tenuto. Fish is so much better when shared with two, wouldn’t you agree?

Photo credits: All photos by Suzanne Tenuto

Check out more of Suzanne’s photos from  Alaska. She’s a photographer based put of Philadelphia who primarily focuses on portraiture, but I l love her travel photography as well: landscapes, food, and wildlife. She blogs at: http://suzannetenutoblog.com/ Follow her on Facebook or Twitter.

Michael Bugno is employed as a Marketing Events Manager in New York City, commuting three days a week from his home in Philadelphia (not the kind of traveling he likes to do). Fortunately he has the opportunity to travel in the US and abroad with work and for pleasure visiting friends, revisiting fabulous past favorite destinations or exploring places totally new.

Post brought to you by MoneySupermarket.com, the UK price comparison website where you can get a great deal on annual travel insurance

It’s not just betting on horses. It’s an experience. Saratoga Springs, New York is one of the best places in the United States to watch horse racing.

There is definitely a horse racing culture around Saratoga Springs: not only in the breeding of race horses but spending the day at the track watching them race. I showed up on a sunny afternoon in the summer with my blogging gear: cameras, video camera, note pads while others were pulling coolers filled with beer and their own lawn chairs. We commoners bought the $3 general admission tickets, without seats. There were others sitting in the stands, well-dressed, men in suits smoking cigars, women with wide-brimmed hats and long dresses. It felt like a Saturday afternoon, but this was just a weekday in August at Saratoga.

Saratoga Springs, New York is about 45 minutes north of Albany and about 3 ½ hours from both New York City and Boston. It is a resort town of about 25,000, known for its healing mineral waters, but today more famous for its horse racing.

Text and photos by Stephen Bugno

Stephen Bugno has just returned from Southeast Asia and has now set off to discover the places a little closer to home. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

Submit your photo of the week to be featured at GoMad Nomad with a link back to your blog! Send a photo with a paragraph or two describing the photo or your experience to gomadnomadtravelmag [@] gmail.com

By Stephen Bugno

The White Mountains are one of the top destinations for travelers in New England. But don’t let that turn you away. There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails, so it doesn’t feel crowded once you hit the backcountry. It’s popular for a reason: these mountains are tall, majestic, serene and offer something for all.

The White Mountains of New Hampshire

The White Mountains are great for independent and experienced hikers, trekkers, and campers but can easily accommodate international visitors on holiday, even those with little outdoor experience. I was quite surprised to see so many foreigners when I visited the region recently. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) runs two lodges and eight huts in the region that can help with accommodation both in the valley (the lodges) and in the backcountry (huts). Theoretically, you could even hike the 56 miles from hut to hut packing only lunches for yourself and a sheet or sleeping bag for bedding.

The AMC is a non-profit, the oldest conservation and recreation organization in the United States. They publish hiking guides and maps, maintain trails, and carry out scientific research. They also run plenty of family friendly/kids programs out of the Highland Center, so bring the family along.

The Trails

There are numerous excellent hikes in the White Mountain, including the classic Franconia Ridge trail (9 mile loop). This time around we hiked the historic Crawford Path—the oldest continuously used mountain trail in the United States.

Our route started at AMC’s Highland Center in Crawford Notch. We made our way up to the Mizpah Hut in less than three hours. From the Mizpah Hut it’s possible to go towards Mt. Washington by way of Mt. Pierce, Mt. Eisenhower and the Lakes of the Clouds Hut. Each of the peaks offers outstanding views. In the opposite direction from Mizpah, you can climb Mt. Jackson and then continue to Mt. Lafayette or take the Webster-Jackson trail back down into Crawford Notch.

Pick up the AMC White Mountain Guide, 28th: Hiking trails in the White Mountain National Forest if you’re going to tackle the white mountains on your own or check out AMC’s website (www.outdoors.org) for info on lodging at the Highland Center, Joe Dodge, or one of the mountain huts.

Check out our Video!

During the past few days in the White Mountains, fellow traveler and blogger Juno Kim (of RunawayJuno.com) and I put together this video to give you a sense of how great these mountains are. They are some of the tallest of the Appalachians, one of the oldest mountain rages on earth, stretching from Alabama to Newfoundland, Canada and reaching the top of most peaks offer outstanding views in any direction. Come check out the White Mountains for yourself!

Although it’s far from New Hampshire, England has some excellent hiking and long distance walking trails. Consider staying in London, Birmingham or at the Crowne Plaza Manchester | The perfect place for conference and wedding venues, before setting off for your hiking trip.