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Best Things to do in Istanbul
Istanbul, Turkey is a sprawling metropolis of 16 million people. The city straddles two continents—Europe and Asia—and its history goes back 3,000 years. This can be intimidating for first-time visitors, but don’t worry. These 18 amazing things to do in Istanbul can all be reached on foot or by tram from Sultanahmet, the heart of the old town.
Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia is one of the greatest buildings in existence. The light that filters through the windows encircling the dome is otherworldly, and whether you’re religious or not, you’ll feel elevated in this ancient, spiritual space.
Built in 537 AD by Byzantine Emperor Justinian, Hagia Sophia (“Holy Wisdom”) was the largest cathedral in the world for a thousand years. When the Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople in 1453 it became a mosque, and later, in 1934, a museum. Since 2020, it is once again a functioning mosque.
As a result, rules for tourists are in a state of flux. Currently, the upper gallery (home to some superb mosaics) is open, but much of the ground floor is accessible only to Turkish Muslims. At the start of 2024, a steep 25 euro entrance fee was introduced.
My advice? Pay what they want, and see what you can. Any glimpse of this awe-inspiring monument is a privilege.
Hippodrome
Constantine the Great made Constantinople (now Istanbul) the capital of the Roman Empire in 324. One of the first things he did was renovate the city’s racetrack, increasing its seating to over 80,000. There aren’t any chariot races (or even seats) now, but three of the Hippodrome’s decorations remain: two obelisks (one Egyptian, one Roman) and the Serpentine Column, removed from the Temple of Apollo in Delphi. The neo-Byzantine German Fountain, gifted by Kaiser Wilhelm II, was added in 1900.
The Hippodrome is a great place to hang out and sample Istanbul street food. Try the grilled corn on the cob or a tasty simit—a ring of bread covered in sesame seeds.
Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmet Mosque is just off the Hippodrome, where the Byzantines’ Great Palace once stood. More commonly known as the Blue Mosque, it’s a breathtaking structure, bubbling with domes and surrounded by six soaring minarets. Over 20,000 ceramic tiles, predominately blue, embellish its interior, along with 260 stained glass windows.
As in Hagia Sophia, or any mosque, you’ll have to remove your shoes to enter. Women must also cover their hair. Closed during designated prayer times. No entrance fee.
Basilica Cistern
Byzantine emperors built hundreds of cisterns beneath Constantinople to store fresh water. With a capacity of 20 million gallons, the Basilica Cistern (commissioned by Justinian in 532) was the largest. It contains a forest of columns (336 to be exact) and a pair of mysterious Medusa heads, one upside down, the other on its side.
These colossal sculptures of unknown provenance were repurposed as column pedestals. Stumbling across them in this dark, watery underworld is really quite spooky. One of the most unusual things to do in Istanbul.
Topkapi Palace
This walled palace complex was once home to some 5,000 people: the Ottoman Sultan, his wives, concubines, servants, government administrators, soldiers, eunuchs, kitchen workers, gardeners, doctors…a city within a city.
It’s easy to spend a whole day here, wandering through lush courtyards and ornate pavilions, ogling the treasures accumulated by one of history’s largest and most powerful empires. There’s the remarkable Topkapi Dagger, encrusted with emeralds, the 86-carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond, and even a pair of prophet Muhammed’s sandals.
From the terraces, you’ll get stunning views of the Sea of Marmara, Bosphorus Strait, and Golden Horn. There’s an extra charge to enter the Harem (private living quarters of the Sultan’s family), but it’s well worth it to see some of the palace’s most richly ornamented rooms.
Istanbul Bazaars
Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar contains over 60 covered streets and 4,000 shops. It’s been in operation since the 15th century, and you can still bargain for jewelry, carpets, lamps and leather goods. Lately, tourist stores have been proliferating, but if you’re looking for souvenirs, prices are better elsewhere.
Shopping isn’t necessary to enjoy the bazaar. Roam around. Check out the old kiosks and fountains, then stop in a café for some strong Turkish coffee.
In Eminonu, near the waterfront, you’ll find the Egyptian, or Spice Bazaar. It dates to 1660 and has 85 shops selling spices like saffron and sumac, as well as dried fruit and Turkish Delight. Above the bazaar is the historic Pandeli Restaurant, famous for its eggplant pie.
Istanbul Archaeological Museums
These three museums (right next to Topkapi Palace) contain over a million artifacts, including one of the best collections of classical sarcophagi anywhere. Turkish archaeologist (and founder of these museums), Osman Hamdi Bey excavated many of them from the Royal Necropolis at Sidon, Lebanon in 1877.
There’s a lot on display, so schedule a full day. If you don’t have that kind of time, focus on the sarcophagi and impressive Greco-Roman sculpture.
Graveyards and Tombs
Istanbul’s historic peninsula brims with atmospheric old graveyards, where stray cats and dogs prowl amongst turban-topped tombstones.
Lavishly decorated turbes abound as well. These mausoleums house the remains of sultans, pashas, and other dignitaries and their families. Be sure to remove your shoes before entering. Free to visit.
Suleymaniye Mosque
If you want to see the tomb of the Ottoman Empire’s greatest sultan, head for the hilltop mosque he inaugurated in 1557. Suleyman the Magnificent ruled from 1520 to 1566, presiding over the empire’s Golden Age. His mosque and turbe were designed, fittingly, by the city’s premier architect, Sinan.
Bosphorus Strait
This strait divides both Istanbul and the continents of Asia and Europe. (Read about exploring Istanbul’s Asian side.) There’s much to see (palaces, mosques, forts) along both banks, and you can tour its entire 19-mile length quite affordably. Read “Tour Istanbul’s Bosphorus Strait by Public Ferry” to find out how. Dinner cruises, featuring Turkish music and belly dancing, are also popular, though considerably more expensive.
The Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus, separates Istanbul’s old city from the new district. Anglers crowd the top level of its primary span, the Galata Bridge, while diners jam into seafood restaurants below.
Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum
Housed in the former palace of Ibrahim Pasha, the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum is known for its unequaled collection of rare carpets, some dating back to the 15th century. There are also wonderful examples of medieval metal and woodwork, Islamic calligraphy, ceramic tiles, and Qur’ans. I particularly enjoyed the exhibit on Turkish shadow theater (Karagoz), with its strange puppets and fantastical plots.
Gulhane Park
Istanbul’s oldest public park was once part of Topkapi Palace’s private gardens. It’s a popular spot for picnics on the weekends, but I prefer a quiet weekday. There are plenty of benches amongst the trees and fountains, where you can relax and escape from the busy city. Bring a book, and a simit to snack on.
Sirkeci Station
Just down the hill from Gulhane Park is historic Sirkeci Station, the former terminus of the Orient Express. Though that luxe service ended in 1977, you can still dine at the equally elegant Orient Express Restaurant. There’s also a small, free Railway Museum with a few mementos of the old Express. Other interesting items include vintage telegraph machines, an electric train cab, and lots of photos.
Pera Palace Hotel
After arriving at Sirkeci Station on the Orient Express, wealthy passengers crossed the Golden Horn by ferry to Pera, Istanbul’s new district. A grand hotel, the Pera Palace, was built there in 1892 to accommodate them. Everyone from Mata Hari to Jackie Kennedy stayed at the Pera Palace.
Agatha Christie, author of Murder on the Orient Express, was a regular, and always stayed in Room 411. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic, was another frequent resident. You can visit his suite and see the natty white suit he designed for himself.
The Pera Palace is still grand, and dinner at Agatha Restaurant, lunch in the Patisserie, or cocktails in the Kubbeli Lounge or Orient Bar will take you back to the days of high style and international intrigue. While in the neighborhood, don’t miss the opportunity to stop by the Pera Museum, which has a very fine collection of Orientalist art.
Istiklal Street
Istanbul’s renowned pedestrian shopping road is only a few blocks from the Pera Palace. Originally named the Grande Rue de Pera, it became Istiklal (Independence) Street after the Turkish Republic was formed.
There’s a lot to fascinate wide-eyed visitors and locals alike: big department stores, trendy restaurants, Christian churches, a vintage tram, even an elite high school behind an imposing gate. The architecture is decidedly European, with plenty of Beaux-Arts and Art Nouveau.
Galata Tower
This medieval watchtower is an iconic part of Istanbul’s skyline. It was built by Genoese colonists in 1348, and is now a museum dedicated to the city’s history. The tower’s main draw is the top-floor observation deck which provides panoramic views. Entrance is a bit pricy at 20+ USD, and it gets very crowded at sunset. More interesting to me (and free to enjoy) is the tower’s exterior with its rubble stone masonry and arched Romanesque windows.
Istanbul Modern
Designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, and opened in 2023, this cutting-edge modern art museum is Istanbul’s newest attraction. The galleries spotlight Turkish artists, while the building’s ship-like shape pays homage to the city’s maritime heritage. The shallow reflecting pool on the roof evokes the Bosphorus and brings in flocks of squawking seagulls.
There’s a fine dining restaurant on the second floor, and a café for coffee or a quick bite.
Dolmabahce Palace
Take tram line T1 to its terminus at Kabatas, then walk five minutes to this grandiose palace commissioned by Sultan Abdulmecid I in 1856.
European architecture was trending in Istanbul at that time, and Abdulmecid spared no expense in trying to outdo the baroque extravagances that his counterparts in Italy and France had built. He succeeded in creating a very impressive palace, but bankrupted his treasury in the process, hastening the Ottoman Empire’s inevitable decline.
Like Topkapi, Dolmabahce should be a full-day excursion. From the clock tower and gates and gardens, to the Harem and picture gallery, the complex is endlessly interesting. Stop for a break at Limonluk Café (located in a gorgeous glass greenhouse), then take on the interior of the main palace.
You’ll see wonders galore: the Crystal Staircase, gilded ceilings, the world’s largest chandelier (4.5 tons!), and my favorite room, the Sultan’s hamam. The walls of this unbelievable bathing chamber are made entirely of Egyptian alabaster. Without doubt, one of the most incredible things to see in Istanbul!
Where to Stay in Istanbul
If it’s your first visit to Istanbul, you’ll want to be close to the major sights in Sultanahmet. My favorite hotel, the Sultan Hill, is just around the corner from the Hippodrome and Blue Mosque. It’s small, personal, and historic—an old wooden Ottoman house. Manager Ali will help you learn the ins and outs of his city, and entertain you with great conversation. Very friendly breakfast staff, too!
