About 45 minutes down the road southwest from Jianchuan, along the busy Lijiang-Dali road is a town where most travelers fail to stop. No one pays too much attention to Shaxi these days. Its heyday is long gone.

Once it stood on the busy Tea Horse Road—a less famous trading route than the Silk Road, it still played an essential role sharing not only goods, but philosophies and ideas between Tibet and Yunnan Province. The Tibetans sent their strong horses down into China, and China sent bricks of Pu ‘er tea up into the high elevations of the Tibetan Plateau. There, the Tibetans enjoyed the black tea though the long, cold winters and the Chinese, in the lowlands, put the much needed horses to use.

Today all is quiet on Shaxi’s main square, or cobbled Sifang. A few infrequently visited cafés line the fringes. Guesthouses are tucked away into historic homes, featuring beautiful courtyards. The tourists and travelers are noticeable, but few and far between. The historic center, filled with mud-brick houses and cobbled lanes seem like a ghost town.

It’s best to visit on a Friday, when seemingly the entire surrounding village population is in Shaxi buying and selling goods and produce. You’ll see Yi and Bai people in traditional dress, live animals for sale, and may even catch a brief glace at some sidewalk dentistry.

As far as sights, you’ll want to check out the Xingjiao Temple, founded in 1415, located in the main square. From there, you’ll see the theater located directly across the square. Down on the east side of town, an old stone bridge arches gracefully over the river and farms stretch to the mountains. It’s a quiet town, save for Fridays, and a walk through the centuries old streets will give you the essence of Shaxi.

There is plenty of accommodation in the old town, but I stayed at Horse Pen 46, which is a hostel affiliated with Hostelling International, and located right on the main square. Like many of the other accommodation options, Horse Pen 46 is located inside an authentic Bai minority courtyard. The hostel has maintained the traditional look and feel of the local architecture and it’s a great experience staying there.

Stephen Bugno spent three months traveling through China in 2012. He edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and blogs at BohemianTraveler.com

Malacca, Malaysia in Photos

Traveling to some of the touristy towns of China (like Lijiang) and in Vietnam (Hoi An) now one year later, I think back to what a special place Malacca, Malaysia is. Don’t get me wrong, Melacca is a super-touristy town, but why it’s special is that the old district has yet to be taken over by tourism. Most hotels and tourist-oriented business are outside of the historic core. Inside, people of a fascinating mix of cultural identities still live and work. A few hostels, guesthouses, and souvenir stores exist in the old city, but for the most part, they haven’t taken over.

Why Malacca is so interesting

Malacca’s history is fascinating. It has been controlled at times by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British. It was settled by a mix of these cultures as well as the Chinese, who intermixed with the local population to evolve into the Peranakan or Baba-Nyonya, with their own language and customs.

Traveling in Malaysia

My Malaysia trip was packed with so many great memories. Besides loving Malacca, I enjoyed a walking tour of Penang, sipping coffee in bohemian haunts in Kuala Lumpur, seeing the orangutans at Spilok, and jungle trekking in Mulu National Park.

Although it’s not as cheap as neighboring Thailand, Malaysia still represents a good value for traveling. Read this to get an idea of average costs traveling in Malaysia.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

I had wanted to visit Halong Bay for years now. It’s one of those destinations that you see a picture of and you promise yourself that you have to go some day. But I recently read some bad press about someone’s experience there: the Bay is polluted; there are too many boats in the bay.

Well, there are plenty of cruise ships docked in the Bay each night, and as we were told by the captain, all boats must anchor in the same part of the Bay each night. So it does seem crowded. But I don’t think that took away from the beauty or unique nature of Halong. And it is beautiful. Especially when we were lucky to get a sunset like this.

Was it polluted? Well I went swimming off the stern of the boat just before sunset. The water was clean and cool and I was refreshed before enjoying the evening meal in the dining room. But know the coast on both sides of the Halong City is full of industry. You’ll see tankers and other large ships cruising in the distance. The Bay is also most likely being over-fished. So it is plagued with issues.

Can one have an enjoyable cruise in Halong Bay? I believe so. Is it overrated as a destination? I think not. It’s worth a few days stop on your visit through Vietnam. Just don’t expect to be the only boat in the bay and know the waters won’t be pristine.

GoMad Nomad Travel Mag partnered with Emeraude Cruises to bring you this post. Check out Emeraude Cruises for fantastic journeys through one of the world’s most dazzling natural wonders. They have offices in Hanoi and Halong City and offer overnight cruises into Halong Bay.

Photos and text by Stephen Bugno

By Stephen Bugno

For some this is the quintessential China experience. I must admit, after countless bus rides, hotel check-ins, and big city headaches, this river’s foggy stillness came as a relief. It may be extremely popular and touristy, but there is no denying the beauty that this river and the Three Gorges possess.

Choose your Cruise

There are a variety of ways to cruise the Yangtze—hydrofoil, passenger ships (ferry), tourist boats, and luxury cruises. Usually GoMad Nomad would be advocating the most inexpensive and local experience, but in this case, an explanation is needed.

The passenger ships sail continuously and pass through some of the most dramatic scenery during the night. Hydrofoils might be a good option, but they travel quickly and offer no outside seating for the gorge views. Additionally they only run from Wanzhou to Yichang (although bus connects you from Chongqing). Tourist boats will probably be the best for low-budget travelers. They are marketed mostly towards Chinese tourists, may speak little English, but usually stop at sights along the way. Luxury Cruises are aboard international-standard ships, include visits ashore, and include English-speaking guides.

Chongqing to Yichang

Chongqing to Yichang is the route I took, but you could also do the reverse, going upstream. There are endless options including trips from 3 to 12 days, even going as far as Shanghai. Your standard tourist or luxury cruise is going to last four days and hit the most scenic part, the Three Gorges, in between Yichang and Chongqing. As far as I know, Chongqing is the furthest upstream you’re likely to go.

A Little Background

The Yangtze has changed immensely in the past decade due to one event: the building of the Three Gorges Dam. Completed in 2006, the dam has tamed the third longest river in the world. It’s the largest dam in the world by length (2.3 km) and will soon become the largest hydro-electric producer in the world. In addition to generating electricity, the dam was intended to increase the Yangtze River’s shipping capacity by subduing the once rough sections as well as reducing the potential for floods downstream by providing flood storage space. The Chinese government regards the project as a historic engineering, social and economic success. However, it has drowned several important archeological sites, displaced 1.3 million people, increased the occurrence of landslides, and been the topic of international debate. It cost US $26 billion to build.

What you’ll See

You will see the dam. Although, I’ll warn you, it isn’t much of a spectacle—the astonishing feat is one evident in the numbers only. I think it’s hard to appreciate the engineering marvel with a view from the far edge of the dam. It’s located in the Xiling Gorge, west of Yichang, and costs about $18 US to visit, although some cruises will include your entry fee.

The Three Gorges and other Sites

The highlight of any trip on Yangtze is sailing through the Three Gorges. Qutang and Wu Georges, which begin 450 km east of Chongqing, near Baidi Cheng, are the climaxes. Here, the waters narrow and the cliffs rise. Despite the new water levels with the creation of the reservoir, the gorges are still very impressive.

At Wu Gorge many ships dock for an excursion up the Daning River through the Three Little Gorges. From what I hear, this is an excellent side trip. My ship sailed right on through Wu Gorge, which stretches for 45 kilometers. Near the end of Wu Gorge we boarded a smaller vessel and tugged up the placid Shennong Stream. When this gorge became too narrow we transferred into another, even smaller boat which was rowed by four oarsman. At the end, they pulled us by rope from the shore, as was done in the old days here.

Other stops along the way include White King Town at the ancient town of Fengjie and the twelve-story wooden pagoda at Shibaozhai that can be climbed for closer inspection. It’s been built using no nails, grafted onto the side of a cliff.

When to Go

Keep in mind December—March is the low season which means lower rates and a more tranquil journey. April and May have the best weather, but the biggest crowds and price tag. In October and November the weather is cool, but the masses return.

Costs

Costs listed are approximate and dependent on the time of season, length of trip, and class. Off-season might save you some money for the top-end cruises and getting a berth in a multi-passenger cabin will save you money on the other ships. Prices listed are based on a trip between Yichang and Chongqing or visa versa. Hydrofoil: $65 US. Passenger ship and tourist boats: 2^nd class: $77; 4^th class $50. Luxury cruise: $350+ Top-end luxury cruise: $450+

More information

I wrote a series of 3 posts describing the day to day events of the cruise:

Cruising the Yangtze Day 1: Leaving Chongqing

Cruising the Yangtze Day 2: The Three Gorges

Cruising the Yangtze Day 3: The Three Gorges Dam

Yangtze River Cruise Photo Set on Flickr

Disclosure: GoMad Nomad partnered with ChinaTours.com for this Yangtze River Cruise. ChinaTours.com provides booking options for a variety of Yangtze River Cruises as well as other tours for traveling through China.

The Soviet fossils in Ashgabat are strewn over the surface of daily life here. One in particular is the bukhanka. This is the Russian word for “loaf”, as in “loaf of bread”. However, the word is used as a standard sort of measure of the state-subsidized and state-produced bread that fills a lot of stomachs here in the capital of the country with the second largest natural gas field in the world.

During the USSR, a bukhanka was a standard, one kilogram loaf of bread. Stuffed with starch, it was not great but it apparently sold for just kopeks (cents in a ruble). Cheap bread subsidized by the productive areas of the economy, and especially oil exports, was a cornerstone of the USSR’s policies towards the citizen.

Ashgabat’s residents try to catch the bread as it just gets delivered. It is pretty tolerable when fresh, straight from the factory. It is a completely different story just a few hours out of the oven. The crust is tough and chewy with burn marks at the points where the pan sat on the rack. The bread is stacked on a shelf, several deep, and everyone handles this with the same care you might show a shoe box.

It is not possible to blame the bad taste on the handling, though. The gray color of the bread stems from using the worst available flour. This shows itself in the taste and the only way I have been able to eat it was to either dipping in soup or salting each slice, salt having been one of the last corners to cut. And instead of a standard weight of one kilogram, the loaf is at least a third less. And yet, it gets taken off the shelf almost as fast as it is re-stocked by the bread truck’s bread boy.

The reason for the local tolerance to such a shabby product is the price. The state controls the production of the bread and charges a price of four loaves for one manat (which makes each loaf about eight US cents). Consumers come in and grab eight loaves at a time. Those with exact change and just buying the bukhanka effectively have a second check-out line where a flash of the loaves and some tossed coins is enough to walk out. Within an hour, this terrible tasting and poor quality bread is gone. The non-subsidized, but much better quality bread is between four and ten times more expensive. This is the kind I buy with my rich foreigner tastes.

This subsidy and the bread distribution system is a direct carry-over of the Soviet era. The state-owned trucks plying the streets, labeled simply in Turkmen, “Bread”. The state-owned grocery stores stocking the bread keep people satisfied and fed despite their low salaries. Paid for with foreign currency, the bukhanka will continue to fill the shelves and stomachs of a lot of people here in Ashgabat.

Read the first post in this series: Landing in Ashgabat

This is a standard government-owned bread truck. Green license plates are all government vehicles, so it is helpful in figuring out what the various state monopolies are. The 'ÇÖREK' written on the side of the truck (pronounced 'chorek') reads "Bread" in Turkmen language.

This post has been written by an expatriate currently working in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.

By Stephen Bugno

The Good

The sights—Where else can you see the Great Wall of China, panda bears close up in their hometown, or a gorge the likes of Tiger Leaping Gorge? Nowhere. That’s why you come to China, for these heavy hitters. I won’t deny that I’ve seen some cool sights here. Climbing Emei Shan sacred mountain and living temporarily in Dali Old City have been some other personal highlights.

China is still a challenge. Yes, that’s a good thing. It can be frustrating at times, but it’s reassuring to be reminded that you can’t just travel everywhere in this world and people will know English. There is a sense of accomplishment in China doing what in other places is just a simple task—booking a train ticket, checking into a hotel, ordering a meal. It will take a phase book, body language, and two willing partners to communicate if you don’t know Mandarin.

You are special—if you’re a westerner, one of European decent, you are special. Bonus points if you are tall and blond, although then you may get borderline unwanted attention. You will get practiced on (English), you will get photographed, you will get stared at, long and hard. You might expect all these factors should lead to unique cultural experiences, and in theory you’d be right. But many folks are just too shy to approach you, nor do they possess enough English skills.

Inexpensive—this mostly applies to the south and southwest. We’re talking about dorm rooms for the equivalent of $5 US, doubles for $12, a bowl of noodles for $1, a nice meal for $3, inexpensive trains and buses, 50 cent beers. I wrote a post on the expenses for travelers in Yunnan Province. Get here before prices go up (and they will).

The Bad

China can be an annoying place to travel most of the time. You need to adapt and be really good at ignoring things. The overwhelming rule of the road is “conduct yourself whatever way you want and be able to ignore everything around you”. The biggest annoyances are as follows:

Smoking—this is difficult to get used to for those of us who have been living in smoke-free environments for 10+ years. Worst of all, people even smoke in confined areas. What is so mystifying is that there is no concept of smoking is bad, even if you are next to a child in a confined space.

Loud talking—Loud talking I can ignore. But I can still get annoyed by it. Nowhere in the world have I heard people shout for an entire conversation on a cell phone than in China. It doesn’t matter if they are young or old, from the village or city, speak mandarin or an ethnic minority language, people in these parts blast their voice through the phone as if they are not sure if the other end of the line can hear them. It also doesn’t seem to matter if you are in a bus, a restaurant, or a museum—this phone conversation is all that matters and you must deal with it.

Beeping—China is not the worst country with beeping horns. That award may go India. But it is bad. It’s not necessarily the frequency of beeping, but one ear-piercing, brain-penetrating, intense type of bus horn. The screech from this type of horn gives one an immediate headache and if close enough, scares the hell out of you.

The ugly

Toilets—especially those in Yunnan Province have been some of the most revolting I’ve ever seen. But it’s not only the sight of these public toilets; it’s the nauseating smell that goes along with them. I won’t go into too much detail, but a lot of people have missed the targeted area with their warheads and even though there is usually a person on duty to collect a small fee from each user, the toilets are not being adequately cleaned.

I’m not exaggerating or speaking of isolated cases—nearly every public bathroom in Yunnan I visited was a roll-your-pantleg, hold-your-nose experience. It was almost like you didn’t know whether to laugh out loud at the extreme disgustingness of the situation or be angry that people could tolerate such severe unsanitary conditions.

Pollution—We’ve read about this in the papers and heard the conditions from the Olympics and I’m here to tell you it really is that bad. The air in Chinese cities is deplorably, disgustingly, filthy. It messes your eyes, it hurts your throat, it affects your lungs. The urban areas are horrendous and much of the time, the countryside is bad too—with mega-clouds of smog drifting over from industrial areas.

Stephen Bugno traveled around south and southwestern China for three months in 2012. It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. He blogs at BohemianTraveler.com and edits the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag.

Turkmenistan visas are not for the faint of heart. With the exception of a few intrepid overlanders who take advantage of an oddly liberal three-day transit visa, getting into the country is not easy. Either one comes in a very expensive tourist visa package or one comes sponsored by an international business or organization. As a result, nearly everyone flies into the capital, Ashgabat, and gets the well-manicured drive from the airport into the city.

I came to Ashgabat in winter just a few days after a snowstorm blanketed this desert city. The snow and ice does not detract from the route into the city. The road is lined with pine trees which have been enthusiastically planted around the capital. They stay green all year and there is little cleaning up of leaves and debris required. These positives clearly were laid out in some bureaucrat’s memo to plant them in every available public space. Unfortunately, bureaucrats do not always communicate aesthetics well so the pines are planted in tree form formation, giving them an odd and artificial feel. I will admit that were very pretty with the snow laden boughs in January, though.

The main road from the airport to the center is lined with white marble clad buildings, all feeling out of place and out of proportion. Roads are built for a much greater traffic load than Ashgabatians currently have to worry about. The state-owned bus company has constructed stations on the main streets that are like mini-airport terminals, complete with indoor waiting areas and LED tickers listing the bus lines and the current temperature. This should make for an impressive display of what a centrally planned government can do with lots of foreign reserves and little check on executive power. However, the buses crammed full of people taking subsidized fares and the empty, unrented kiosks in each of these stations speak more to the economic realities here than do the vanity projects.

All this is fairly par for the course in terms of gas-rich authoritarian countries. Nothing too surprising, especially not when compared to the construction projects of the petro-states in the Middle East. What really took me back were the ice covered fountains at every intersection. In the depth of winter and in spite of six inches of snow on the ground, they were all spraying full blast with ice volcanoes building up around the spouts. Burst pipe risks or not, someone important decreed that the water will flow in this desert country.

This post has been written by an expatriate currently working in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. 

Dali is one of those places that I really hoped I wouldn’t dislike. Its description in the guidebooks made it sound so pleasant a town—except for one thing—the growing number Chinese tourists. Well, there were tons of tourists, but Chinese tourists seem to stick together in group tours and don’t drift very far from the main tourist drag. There is one long pedestrianized street in Dali where the masses appear to meander slowly, stopping and shopping as they go. This street has been architecturally prettied and is crammed with one souvenir shop after another. Turn off this main artery and the city becomes more interesting.

How Dali differs, from say, Lijiang, is that it is actually a city where local people live. In Lijiang, the entire old town population has been pushed out to who-knows-where in favor of tourist stalls, restaurants, and guesthouses.

Dali is a cool place to hang out for a while, and the only town in China that I could foresee myself living. It’s lively without being annoyingly noisy. There is a strong bohemian vibe which has attracted creative types from around China. You’ll find plenty of coffee shops, boutique clothe shops, art galleries, small cafes, live music, and plenty of artists.

Dali is set in an inspiring location. The spiky peaks of the Cang Shan and the stretching Er Hai lake make you want to get up in the morning and create beautiful things. Unlike most of China, the air is pure, the weather favorable, and the climate mild. It sits at about 2000 meters and hikes lead up into the mountains still higher. Inspiration abounds here.

In the surrounding areas on the west side of the lake are towns and villages holding weekly markets. This region is dominated by the Bai ethnic minority. There are great examples of Bai architecture in Xizhou and an interesting Monday market in Shaping.

Dear GoMad Nomad,

I am wondering if you can advise me on good places to visit in China, off the beaten path, where the prices are low, the people are friendly, the women are beautiful, and the scenery is breathtaking.

Sincerely,

Symour in Pasaic

Dear Symour,

Great timing on this one—I’m in the middle of three-month trip to China. On this trip I’ve stuck to Hong Kong/Macau, Guangxi Province (in the south), and Yunnan and Sichuan Province (in the Southwest) so my knowledge doesn’t go too far beyond that.

As a general rule, China is less expensive in the south and southwest and pricier in the north and east. So I’m going to steer you towards Guangxi, Yunnan and Sichuan.

There are very few foreigners traveling through China, so much of the time you’ll feel like you’re off-the-beaten-path. But watch out for the Chinese tourists—Lijiang, for example is inundated with masses from throughout China. My advice would be to spend as little time there as possible.

The backpacker trail in Yunnan (Kunming, Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-la) is popular, but for good reason—it is a fantastic place to travel. (But as I said earlier, there are few western tourists). Breathtaking scenery—check! Friendly people—check! And as far as the beauty of the people—I’ll let you decide that for yourself.

These aren’t majority Han Chinese in much of Yunnan—but many of China’s ethnic minorities. This makes travel here more culturally diverse and interesting due to the individual dress, food, and customs of each nationality.

As far as expenses, I just published What it costs: Traveling in Yunnan Province.

After Yunnan Province, I headed up to Sichuan Province mainly for three reasons—tea houses, Giant Pandas, and food. The costs of travel in Sichuan are nearly the same as in Yunnan. There is distinct Sichuanese cuisine, incredible landscapes, and the chance to witness Tibetan culture without the hassle and expense of going to Tibet. The western half of Sichuan is situated high in the Tibetan Plateau and many of the towns there are ethnically Tibetan.

There are plenty of historic towns in Sichuan as well and the most laid-back of China’s huge cities—Chengdu (home of the Pandas).

The following posts might inspire you:

• The astounding Tiger Leaping Gorge
• Yuanyang Rice Terraces of Yunnan Province
• The 17-Arched Twin Dragon Bridge of Jianshui (Yunnan Province)
• The scenery surrounding the Li River near Yangshuo (Guangxi Province)
• A great local market near Dali, Yunnan.
• Tasting Tea in Kunming video

Additionally I’ve tagged my China posts on GoMad Nomad #China and Bohemian Traveler #China

Happy Travels! Let us know when you make it to China!

Sincerely,

Stephen

It’s not easy to navigate the streets of Lijiang’s old town. Timeworn cobbled streets follow steams, bending over ancient stone bridges forming a centuries-old maze. Lijiang is the capital of the Naxi Kingdom, set beneath the spiky Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The Naxi are an ethnic group descended from the Tibetans, settling this region before the 10^th century. Their culture is defined by their shamanistic religion known as Dongba, as well as their strong matriarchal influences.

I had wanted to visit Lijiang for several years now and have to admit, I was quite disappointed. The town’s architecture and setting make it so stunningly beautiful, almost too pretty, that it’s fake. It’s no longer a living town, which was the point most disappointing. Residents have been driven out in favor of souvenir shops, guesthouses, and restaurants. The whole town has been reconstructed and beautified, almost giving us the impression that the place could have been constructed as a cultural theme park.

I’m not suggesting you should skip Lijiang, just be aware that it may be swamped with Chinese tourists when you visit. The crowds may detract from the magic you were expecting from Lijiang. So be warned, Lijiang is the ultimate tourist town. Also it’s bit more expensive than the rest of Yunnan Province. Read further to get an estimate of travel expenses in Yunnan Province.

If flying to China from London, perhaps you’ll find using Gatwick parking a convenient option. Airparks would also be a fine possibility if you have to drive your own vehicle to one of the London airports and need to park it for an extended period.

If you plan on visiting Tiger Leaping Gorge, you might as well stop in Lijiang for a couple days to check it out for yourself. Remember to explore the back streets and smaller alleyways—you may just find the few pleasant un-touristy streets of Lijiang.

Photos and text by Stephen Bugno

Muang Ngoi is a small village on the banks of the Nam Ou River in Northern Laos. It’s a one-street village with no motorized vehicles—the only way to get there is by a one-hour boat ride from Nong Khiaw.

It’s a peaceful place to spend a couple days. There’s only electricity from 6pm to 9pm. Most of your time will probably be spent reading in a hammock with a stellar view of the river and surrounding limestone mountains.

The walking is nice as well—there’s a nearby cave and some villages further out. One called Bana is a settlement of bamboo huts and wooden houses and lots of life about an hour away. It’s definitely worth exploring the area by foot.

Here are some of my photos from four days in Muang Ngoi:

View from the boat to Muang Ngoi

View of the Nam Ou from our bungalow

River Weed Drying

the mountains around Muang Ngoi

fields around the village of Bana

view from Bana village

in Bana village

A house in the Village of Bana

a handicraft in Bana village

on the path to Bana village

Stephen enjoying a Lao coffee at a riverside cafe in Muang Ngoi

Photos and text by Stephen Bugno

This video was filmed in February 2012. It was made together with Juno Kim of RunawayJuno.com. We paused in Luang Prabang for a couple of weeks on a trip through China, Laos, and Vietnam. I think it captures the essence of this tranquil city on the Mekong.

If you enjoyed the video, please share with you friends via email or Facebook. Thanks!

I have written extensively about traveling in Laos. You can reference the following articles for more information:

What it’s like in Luang Prabang, Laos

A Digital Nomad in Luang Prabang, Laos

What it Costs:  A Day of Travel in Laos

Tubing in Vang Vieng: The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly

Your Guide to Slow Boats in Laos

Lao Herbal Sauna and Traditional Lao Massage

Cycling Around Luang Namtha Video

Why I Don’t Like Laos

Photo of the Week: Slow Boat on the Mekong

Photo of the Week: Vientiane, Laos

Photos from the Road: Muang Ngoi, Laos

Photos from the Road: Luang Prabang, Laos

Stephen Bugno has been traveling abroad and writing about it for over 10 years. He can’t seem to lose the curiosity he had about the world since childhood. He edits the GoMadNomad Travel Mag and blogs at Bohemian Traveler. He recently started producing travel videos. Subscribe to his monthly newsletter and his YouTube channel.

By Stephen Bugno

Despite inflation and inflated expenses for travelers, Laos is still an inexpensive place to travel. I started this series with: What it costs to travel in Malaysia. I wanted to give independent travelers an idea of the costs associated with traveling in individual countries because it can be extremely helpful during the planning stages.

Keep in mind $1 US = 8,000 kip (March 2012).  Here is an example of the cost of an average day traveling in Laos:

A day’s expenses in Laos:

Breakfast buffet in Muang Ngoi (including coffee): 20,000 kip   ($2.50 US)

One hour slow boat ride to Nong Khiaw:  25,000 kip  ($ 3.13 US)

Papaya Shake at café with free WiFi: 10,000 kip ($1.25 US)

Lunch: curry and sticky rice: 20,000 kip   ($2.50 UD)

Rent mountain bike for the afternoon: 30,000 ($3.75 US)

1.5 liter water: 5,000 kip ($.63 US)

Dinner: Mok Sin (steamed fish in Banana leaf) and sticky rice: 20,000 ($2.50 US)

Beer Lao (640ml): 10,000kip ($1.25 US)

Traditional Lao Herbal Sauna: 15,000 kip ($1.88 US)

Accommodation in Nong Khiaw: 40,000 kip (20,000 pp if shared) ($5.00 US)

 Total:   190,000 kip       ($ 23.75 US )

 

Meals, accommodation, and transport

$20 US per day is a good estimate if you’re a tight budget traveler. If you travel slower and smarter, you might make it on $15 or less per day. Consider that Luang Prabang and Vientiane are more expensive than the rest of the country.

Transportation costs have risen since I last visited. For an eight-hour bus ride, you’re looking at about 90,000 kip ($11.25 US). Expect most tuck-tuck and songthaew drivers to overcharge, so bargain hard.

For slow boat costs check out my Guide to Slow Boats in Laos.

Accommodation can vary. I’ve paid as little as 30,000 kip ($3.75 US) for a room. Budgeting between 50,000-80,000 ($6.25-$10.00 US), however, is more realistic. Keep in mind this will only get you a basic room with an attached bathroom. In Laos, it pays to travel in a pair, because the room is the same price for one or two people.

To rent bicycles for the day, it usually cost between 10,000 and 30,000 kip.

An hour-long Lao massage usually goes for 40,000-60,000 kip ($5-$7.50 US).

Depending on the way you view Laos, it can be a traveler’s nirvana or could be the source or frustration.

Although Laos is a friendly and tranquil place to travel, it is in many ways a little traveler’s paradise in the sense that the whole backpacker infrastructure has been set up. It is here you’re likely to spend most of your time. There are small guesthouses and bungalows that cater exclusively to foreign travelers, either because Laotians don’t wish to travel or don’t have the money.

This also means many of your bus trips will be more than half-filled with foreign travelers and your slow boat trip may not include any locals at all. So if you’re fantasizing about an all-Laotian boat ride down a remote river, think more realistically.

Laos is an easy country to travel within because those involved in tourism have enough of a grasp of English to make travelers feel comfortable and menus are usually printed in English. Laotians don’t often eat out, so if you desire something above basic noodles, you’ll have to go to a tourist-oriented eating establishment.

ATMs and Cash

ATMs are becoming more commonplace in Laos. Throughout SE Asia, it’s always a good idea to carry US dollars on your person for visas and for emergencies. Occasionally the ATMs don’t have money, they are temporarily out of order, or the power is out. Most towns in Laos have an ATM but don’t count on them everywhere, so make sure you have enough kip before traveling into the countryside.

Making the most of your travels through Laos

If you don’t make an effort to leave the comfort of the Banana Pancake Trail, your trip is liable to be relaxing and chilled-out, but it won’t involve very much interaction with locals beyond superficial contact.

Last year after traveling almost a month in Laos, I wrote Why I don’t like Laos. And while I would add that I don’t dislike Laos, these are just a few of the things I mentioned which frustrate me while traveling there.  I’d never dispute the friendliness of Laotians or the placidity of their society. Add I’ll probably end up traveling there again.

Have you traveled through Laos recently? How much did you spend per day?

By Stephen Bugno

Some specialties of Guangxi Province

China is a foodie’s utopia—the regional diversity of offerings is outstanding. Although it can’t compete with the powerhouse food regions like Sichuan, Beijing, or Guangdong, Guangxi Province still had some interesting food culture to investigate.

Guangxi Province is located in southern China, west of Hong Kong and Macau. It’s most famous for the limestone mountains around Guilin and Yangshuo. After a long day of cycling around Yangshuo or rafting down the Li River, we explored the culinary scene of Guangxi.

Guilin rice noodles are a favorite for breakfast. In addition to the broth and meat, different condiments like soy beans, fermented green beans, chopped spring onions, cabbage, radish, and chili are piled on top.

Snails are another specialty. We ate them stuffed with a pork, ginger and other-herbs blend.

Beer fish and beer duck are two specialties of Yangshuo, both prepared with local ingredients. Watch a video of a local chef preparing beer fish.

Due to the favorable climate, fruits are also popular in Guangxi: mandarin oranges, kumquats, persimmons, and the Shatin grapefruit. We also saw Gingko seeds for sale.

It’s also not unusual to see live animals outside of restaurants in Guangxi Province: chickens, pheasants fish, turtles, clams, and many others.

Now watch the video:

A stroll around the Confucian Academy of Jianshui is a serene experience. I visited the day before the Chinese New Year, and the streets of the city were erupting in a constant state of exploding fire crackers. But at the Confucian academy, inside the giant walls that surround this 7.5 hectare complex, a state of serenity reined. I made my way around the large Xue Lake and lilly pond content being sheltered from the outside world.

It is here that worried parents bring their children to kowtow to the statue of Confucius before exams in the summer. The temple here was modeled after the one in Qufu, Confucius’ hometown. Finished in 1285, it’s the third-largest in all of China.

The temple has operated as a school for over 750 years and once held the imperial examinations.

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Although located slightly off the tourist trail, Jianshui has some outstanding sights and proved to be one of my favorite destinations in all of China due to its plethora of traditional architecture and easy-going inhabitants.

Besides the happenings in and around the beautiful Chaoyang Gate, the Zhu Family Gardens is well worth a look. On the outskirts of town, the Twin Dragon Bridge—one of the ten oldest in China—waits to be explored.

Jianshui is a three-hour bus ride south of Kunming in China’s Yunnan Provice.

Admission to the Confucian Academy is 60 CNY ($9.50 US).

I started a series last year to try to describe to readers what it’s actually like in selected cities worldwide. Too often travel writers highlight points of touristic interest or glamorize a destination only to elevate it beyond its reality. That is their job: to sell destinations.

I wanted to go beyond that and tell you what it’s like in Luang Prabang and how it might be to linger a week or two there. I started this series with: What it’s like in Bangkok.

I’ll start by saying Luang Prabang is a pleasant place to spend a few days.

The historic capital of Laos sits serenely on a peninsula where the Nam Khan River flows into the Mekong. You’ll sometimes see a couple of men fishing in the river and local boys and foreign travelers swimming or lying in the late afternoon sun on a sandy island. Out on the busier Mekong, long “slow” boats will be docked with others out on the river. The old town is mostly situated on the peninsula. The streets here are quiet and mostly void of traffic save the odd motorbike or two. Tourists will be seen walking around or peddling bicycles. Besides guesthouses, homes, and a few cafes, this is predominantly the domain of temples and old monasteries that function to this day.

Out in the Streets

Novice monks dressed in saffron robes glide along the sidewalks. Their satchels are slung across their shoulders and hold umbrellas overhead, providing protection from the overhead sun. It is warm here, sometimes hot. Palm trees poke out from the other vegetation that lines the street. Colonial architecture is no more than two stories high. The facade colors are elegantly fading. As you leave the historic center, you’ll see fewer tourists, almost none when you reach a point after about 15 minutes walking. There isn’t much traffic, except the main roads can get heavy with motorbikes and scooters at morning and afternoon rush hour. But aside from this, the air is mostly clean and free of excessive noise.

During high season the amount of foreign visitors is shocking. You’ll wonder how such a small town could accommodate such numbers. But Luang Prabang copes. The off-season, from April to October will see fewer visitors and lower prices.

Food

It’s tough to find Lao food—which is surprising as well as disappointing, because it’s quite nice and a little different than in neighboring Thailand or Vietnam. An obvious place to look is at the night market. Lao food is there discreetly—mok sin wrapped up in a banana leaf or other specialties spooned into plastic bags for takeaway. But more plentiful at the night market is a variety of generic Asian stir-fried dishes. Overall the night market is neither interesting nor exciting like ones I’ve visited in Luang Namtha or Vientiane.

The more expensive restaurants also offer some Laotian dishes in addition to Western ones, but are much more costly. On the edges of the historic district you can find less expensive cafes serving up stir-fry, and rice and noodles for backpackers at reasonable prices.

Street cart vendors make chicken, egg, bacon, veggie and other sandwiches on French bread starting at 10,000 kip ($1.25). Noodle soup runs about 10,000 kip and fried rice 15,000. A big bottle (640ml) of the ever-popular Beer Lao usually costs 10,000 kip. Bars are numerous around town.

Costs

Like much of Southeast Asia, Laos is considered an inexpensive destination for travelers. Although more expensive than the rest of Laos, Luang Prabang is still comparable to many places in Thailand. Be aware that prices can almost double in the high season. Also note that prices throughout the country for basic traveler necessities (accommodation and food) have been rising sharply in recent years.

Very basic double rooms in Luang Prabang start at around 40,000 kip ($5 US). You may be able to get a dorm room for 30,000kip ($3.75). But the city has a vast array of accommodation and you could spend much more if you prefer an atmospheric locale or higher quality amenities. Most of the accommodation is set on quiet streets amid lush vegetation or overlooking either of the rivers.

Peculiarities

Tourists and locals rarely mix in Luang Prabang—which is quite odd considering how friendly and curious Laotians can be. Locals don’t eat out often and you rarely see tourists at a local café, or vice versa. Luang Prabang, like most of Laos, is a disturbingly segregated place. Local cafés, with menus on the wall written in Lao only, rarely feel welcoming to foreigners. Tourist eating establishments in the old town will see only the likes of foreigners.

In the historic district much of the local life has been squeezed out in favor of tour companies, tourist cafés, money changers, and souvenir shops. Try to walk the narrow lane back streets and you’ll find some local homes that have remained next to the temples despite the tourism encroachment.

Another mystery of Luang Prabang is its development as a center of geriatric tourism. It’s odd when you think of how remote and difficult this place is to get to. I assume they’re flying in as part of group tours. I don’t know any other destination I’ve seen such a high concentration of 65+ year old travelers.

One last bit you should know is the city-wide curfew. Most guesthouses will lock their doors or shut their gate at 11:30pm or midnight. There is no after-hours nightlife save for the Bowling Alley on the edge of town.

Sites

I like to say to myself that “there sure are a whole lot of tourists here for a city with no sites to see”. That is not entirely true. Luang Prabang is primarily one of those destinations that you visit for the atmosphere. The waning architecture, the pleasant cafes, the lively night market, and the many temples are reasons enough to visit Luang Prabang. In mornings and evenings you can listen to the monks chanting inside the temples.

First and foremost, this city is a religious center and you’ll be visiting plenty of Buddhist temples and monasteries. The older and bigger complexes charge 20,000 kip ($2.50 US) to enter, but there are others that are open, working monasteries. Visit any of those and a curious monk may see you and be interested in chatting to learn about you and practice his English.

One of the biggest draws in Luang Prabang happens every morning at dawn.  Hundreds of monks from the various monasteries walk through the streets at 6am collecting alms. Villagers and townsfolk bring prepared food to offer the monks.

Besides the abovementioned, there isn’t too much to do here. Although somehow I’ve managed to linger for more than a week, I was attracted by the good internet connections, minimal distractions, and the quiet pace of life here that I experienced last June during low season. This time around it’s high season and was more hectic.

It’s also worth noting that Luang Prabang is located in a malarial zone.

Visit my Flickr page for more photos of Luang Prabang.

Have you been to Luang Prabang? When did you visit? How was your experience?

By Stephen Bugno

The karst surrounding Guilin in southern China is famous throughout the world. These limestone mountains have been immortalized in Chinese scroll painting and on the back of the 20 Yuan bank note (used by one-fifth of humanity). Many travelers and tourists prefer to base themselves in the smaller Yangshuo, about an hour to the south, opposed to Guilin.

Yangshuo is a city of about 300,000 situated right in the landscape that has made the region so celebrated. A plethora of accommodation and eateries make Yangshuo a comfortable play to situate oneself, while getting out to see the countryside.

Yangshuo, however is noticeably touristy—with its showy pedestrian avenue, West Street (Xi Jie)—overloaded with souvenir stalls, restaurants, overpriced coffee shops, and clubs. West Street is where most Chinese tourists promenade and dance at the clubs until the morning hours. Guihua Lu, on the other hand, is where the foreigners tend to while away the afternoons drinking coffee and the evenings with beer.

Getting out of Yangshuo

The best thing to do in Yangshuo is to get out. There are plenty of walking and cycling opportunities in all directions surrounding town. Rock climbing and bamboo rafting are also extremely popular. There are additional guesthouses in the villages surrounding Yangshuo, so consider those as an alternative to the mega-touristy Yangshuo.

Cycling

One of the favorite cycling routes around Yangshuo is along the Yulong River. From Yangshuo you’re looking at a flat, relaxed 20 km, 4-5 hour round-trip to Dragon Bridge. Just head out of town toward the village of Jima and head up river on either side. It’s not easy to find the exact way because there are lots of dirt tracks, but at the same time, it’s hard to get lost. You’ll wind your way past villages and farms while soaking up the scenery. The highlight is the 600-year old arched Dragon Bridge. See some of my photos from cycling around Yangshuo.

Rafting

Rafting is another popular way to see the landscape of Guangxi. Most popular is the route on the Li River from Yangdi to Xingping, but it’s also possible to hire a raft on the Yulong River as well. The trip takes about an hour and costs 118 CYN (18.75 USD). On this route the river passes some of the finest views in the region, including the view (somewhat exaggerated I might add) on the 20 Yuan note. As an alternative to rafting, you could consider the more expensive, bigger river boat all the way from Guilin to Yangshuo. See some of my photos from rafting on the Li River.

Walking

Walking opportunities abound in the vicinity of Yangshuo. The above mentioned cycling route can also double as a walking itinerary. Moon Hill is another stop that shouldn’t be missed. It’s a hill about 8km from town with a moon-shaped hole in it. After a 40-minute hike to the top, expect fantastic view in all directions. Admission: 15 CYN (2.40 USD).

The raft trip from Yangdi to Xingping also follows the way of an excellent hiking path, about 16km in all. It takes about four to five hours and includes three river crossings.

If you have to linger in Yangshuo

Half the battle of not getting frustrated with Yangshuo is knowing which businesses to patronize and which to avoid. It took me a few days to figure out which cafes serve good local food at a reasonable price. Gan’s Noodles, for example, was one of our or go to spots for Beijing-style noodles and dumplings. Their small shop is located on the right-hand side about a kilometer out of the center on the main road to Guilin.

Another nice local joint is Little Bull, located next to Clay Pot Rice where Guihua Lu meets Diecui Lu. The chef, Harry, trained under an Australian in Shenzhen for seven years and now came back home to set up this café of local specialties. I helped made a video with Runaway Juno of him making beerfish, a Yangshuo specialty.

Accommodation

There is a plethora of accommodation in Yangshuo that caters to budget travelers on up, so you shouldn’t have any problem finding a cheap dorm bed or private room. Dorm beds start at about 4 USD and doubles from 10 USD. Try to avoid staying on West Street because of the load music blasting out from the clubs.

Better yet, try to find accommodation out in the countryside. Staying at a place like the Giggling Tree, a Dutch-run country guesthouse is a fantastic, quieter alternative to staying in Yangshuo.

Check out some more great photography of Yangshuo on Art of Backpacking.

One of the most popular ways to soak up the scenery of Guangxi Province is to take a bamboo raft down the Li River.  Yangdi is the preferred starting place and the new fee structure starting January 1^st, 2012 requires a 118 RMB (US $19) fee which includes a spot on a four-seat bamboo raft. Disappointingly, most of the bamboo rafts have been replaced with bamboo-shaped plastic tubing. Alternatively, one could hike the whole 16 km to Xingping, but there’s no discount on the ticket.

When I visited in early January, most of the hiking trail was closed for repair, but I was able to walk the last six kilometers. Visibility was also poor this time of year, as you can see from my photos. This stretch of the Li River is said to be the most beautiful. It is here that you can see the view of the mountains on the back of the 20 Yuan note.

Another route to take is the bigger river boat all the way from Guilin to Yangshuo. This is more expensive and takes about 4-5 hours.

Cycling around Yangshuo is also a popular way to see the stunning landscape.