GoMad Nomad Travel

One of the most popular ways to soak up the scenery of Guangxi Province is to take a bamboo raft down the Li River.  Yangdi is the preferred starting place and the new fee structure starting January 1^st, 2012 requires a 118 RMB (US $19) fee which includes a spot on a four-seat bamboo raft. Disappointingly, most of the bamboo rafts have been replaced with bamboo-shaped plastic tubing. Alternatively, one could hike the whole 16 km to Xingping, but there’s no discount on the ticket.

When I visited in early January, most of the hiking trail was closed for repair, but I was able to walk the last six kilometers. Visibility was also poor this time of year, as you can see from my photos. This stretch of the Li River is said to be the most beautiful. It is here that you can see the view of the mountains on the back of the 20 Yuan note.

Another route to take is the bigger river boat all the way from Guilin to Yangshuo. This is more expensive and takes about 4-5 hours.

Cycling around Yangshuo is also a popular way to see the stunning landscape.

The shops are all closed up. There’s hardly any foot traffic or cars on the streets. Red lanterns hung around the city add to the atmosphere. But the most noticeable way to tell it’s the Eve of Chinese New Year is by the excessive and near constant explosions of firecrackers.

Children light them off. So do adults. But it’s the teenagers that are most aggressive. One will ride on the back of a scooter facing backwards lighting a series of firecrackers and dropping them while his or her friend drives away. I saw others having mini-wars; throwing clusters at their friends. Others just set them off near random people and scurry off before being seen.

Some firecrackers are bigger and louder than others. After a long string of big ones, at least one car alarm will get set off. The climax came at midnight, when it seemed like each of the city’s citizens was setting fireworks off at the same time.

I am witnessing all this in the small city of Jianshui, in Yunnan Province, about 200 km south of Kunming. Jianshui is known for its traditional architecture: its huge red gateway arch Chaoyang Lou, its venerable Confucian academy, the traditional Zhu Family Gardens, and the captivating 17-arch Twin Dragon Bridge.

Tomorrow, the 23^rd of January will be New Year’s Day and people will leave their homes to promenade through the old cobbled streets during the afternoon. The shops will all be open; the Taoist temple will be busy, and the street vendors will be cooking up their famous Jianshui barbecue.

The Chinese call this Lunar New Year’s celebration Spring Festival. The Lunar Calendar is observed in much of Asia. Last year I celebrated Lunar New Year in South Korea, which was an incredible cultural experience for me, spending the entire day with a Korean couchsurfer and his family. This year was not as special for me—I’ve just been watching people celebrate in the streets. I wasn’t able to see how any Chinese families celebrated in their homes. Nevertheless, it was fun to see everyone excited and in a festive spirit.

See the photos below of Jianshui preparing for Spring Festival, or Chinese New Year:

Red lanterns for sale in Jianshui, China

Red lanterns hang on the city gate in Jianshui, China

Decorations hung at the traditional Zhu Family Gardens in Jianshui, China

New Year’s decorations at the Confucian Temple in Jianshui, China

Red lanterns hung at the Confucian Temple in Jianshui, China.

Fireworks for sale in Jianshui, China.

Setting up fireworks at a private residence.

After the firecrackers

Exploded fireworks in front of the Linan Inn in Jianshui, China

Shops closed up on New Year’s Eve. Smoke after the firecrackers.

Out with last year’s red lanterns.

To many people, Macau means one thing: casinos. This little special administrative region of China that was both the first and last European colony in Asia, makes more money from gambling than Las Vegas. It’s a hot destination for rich mainland Chinese.

To me it was about visiting an anomaly: a territory with a curious history, a city of attractive architectural leftovers, and tasting a cuisine that fuses the best of Portuguese and Southern Chinese.

I got what I came for. Beautiful mosaic-like, pedestrian-only zones leading to churches named Lorenzo, Agostinho, and Domingos. I dined on Portuguese chicken—a Macanese specialty hot pot dish loaded with chicken, potatoes, onions, sausage, and boiled eggs in a mild coconut-based, curry-like sauce. I sat in nighttime squares lit with yellow streetlamps. I sipped good coffee and nibbled Portuguese pastries.

I also examined the other side of Macau tourism. A quick walk through the floor of Wynn Casino gave me the impression of a very serious gambling scene. No drinking—just straight up sobriety, with a little nicotine to fuel the adrenaline. Majority Chinese at baccarat, roulette, poker, and blackjack tables.

There is also today’s Macau, the city that’s 95% Cantonese/Chinese with noisy traffic, bustling markets, and great Cantonese food. A look through Red Market introduced me to dozens of fish and shellfish I couldn’t name in addition to almost every part of pig. Lin Fung Temple, far from the tourist zone in north Macau, was a great place to witness locals lighting insense and making offerings of fruit and hell money. Nearby, Lou Lim Leoc Garden is an exquisite urban sanctuary with ponds, pavilions, miniature trees, and arching bridges. There I saw a woman practicing what looked like Tai Chi with a sword.

St Domingos Church

Detail of Lin Fung Temple

Lighting Insense at Lin Fun Temple

Shellfish at Red Market

Shellfish for sale at Red Market in Macau

Pig’s Blood

A Butcher at Red Market in Macau

A Street Market in Macau

Roasting Pigeons in Macau

A bridge in Lou Lim Leoc Gardens in Macau

Chi Lin Nunnery is an elegant wooden temple built without nails in the Tang style. Adjacent to the temple is the tranquil Nam Lian Gardens, a reconstruction of a Tang-era garden. Stroll on a curving walkway past pavilions, ponds, hills, and sculpted pines. It is a fine example displaying the rich culture of the classical Chinese garden.

The garden is supposed to not only serve as an ideal place to spend leisure time, but to visibly manifest the integration between art and wisdom. The design concept of Nam Lian is focused on a one-way circular touring route intended for quiet contemplation.

All this right in the midst of the great bustle of urban Hong Kong.

If you go:

Nam Lian Gardens and Chi Lin Nunnery is accessible from Diamond Hill MTR station in Kowloon. Use Exit C2 and follow the sign for a 5 min. walk. The Nunnery is open daily 9am-3:30pm and the gardens from 7am-9pm. Both are free.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

One of the iconic images of all of Asia, the Hong Kong skyline is certainly one of the city’s highlights. There are a few ways to go about getting the best view. I’ll give you my top four picks:

4) From the ICC Tower in West Kowloon.

This is the tallest building in Hong Kong and the fourth tallest in the world. It was completed in 2010 and soars to 484 meters above the city. Views look out across the harbor to Hong Kong Island. You could pay $HK 150 ($20 US) to see the view from the Sky100 observation deck or go to the lobby of the Ritz Carlton on the 103^rd floor to see it for free. Guess which I did?

3) From the Peak.

Victoria Peak, rising above the Hong Kong skyline to the south, affords unbeatable views. You can take the tram up for $HK 36 ($4.80 US) or hike 1 ½ hours up the tramway path like I did. The way rises 386 vertical meters. Once at the top I recommend the hour-long Peak Circuit walk, an easy shaded stroll with more extensive views.

2) From the Star Ferry.

$HK 2 ($.26 US) will get you a ride on the legendary Star Ferry (sorry, there’s no avoiding the fee on this one). Board at the terminal near IFC2 Tower and sail the 10 minutes to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. Or take it in reverse.  It’s the best bang for your buck in Hong Kong.

1) From Kowloon during the light show

From the promenade along Victoria Harbour in Kowloon, thousands gather every night to watch the light and laser show on 44 buildings on both sides of the harbor. See neon, beams of light, and occasionally fireworks light up the magnificent cityscape in a presentation known as A Symphony of Lights. It lasts for about 15 minutes and is worth watching at least once. This one’s on the Hong Kong Tourism Board: free admission.

Text and Photos by Stephen Bugno

Stephen Bugno has just set off for 5+ months traveling in Hong Kong, China, Taiwan and beyond. Read more about his trip to china on his personal travel blog, Bohemian Traveler.

View of the Star Ferry looking toward Hong Kong Island

View from the 31st floor of the JW Mariott.

View from the 103rd floor of the ICC building

View of Hong Kong skyline from The Peak

Morning in Hong Kong

View of the Hong Kong Skyline at night from Kowloon during the light show

A new junk at night

The Jinshaling section of the Great Wall of China is located in a mountainous area 125 km northeast of Beijing.  We spent the afternoon hiking the 10.5 km along the wall to Simatai, passing 67 towers, five passes and two beacon towers, much of wall rubble beneath our feet.  This section was built about 1570 during the Ming Dynasty.

Text and photo by Stephen Bugno